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ONE COPY REC'D 

MAY 5 1898 



A TOUR 



AROUND THE WORLD 



BY 



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GEORGE E. RAUM 



I5EIXG A BRIEF SKETCH OF THE MOST IXTERESTING SIGHrS 

SEEN IX EUROPE, AFRICA, ASIA, AND AMERICA, 

WHILE ON A TWO YEARS' RAMBLE 



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NEW YORK 

WILLIAM S. GOTTSBBRGER, PUBLISHER 

I I MURRAY STREET 

1895 




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7316 



COPYRIGHT BY 

WILLIAM S. GOTTSBERGER 

1885 



LC Control Number 




tinp96 025794 



A TOUR 
AROUND THE ^A/^ORLD, 



CHAPTER I. 

QUEENSTOWN : CORK : BLARNEY CASTLE I BANTRY : 
GLENGARIFF : LAKES OF KILLARNEY : GAP OF DUN- 

loe : muckross abbey : dublin : portrush i 
giants' causeway : castle of dunluce : Bel- 
fast: 

After a ten days' voyage by steamer across the 
Atlantic from New York, we reached the Emerald 
Isle, landing at Queenstown, a city situated at the 
southern extremity of Ireland, in Cork Harbor, 
and admirably defended by two strong forts. It 
contains about 10,000 inhabitants, and has few 
attractions for tourists ; but is a favorite resort for 
invalids on account of its mild climate. Here 
the Rev. Charles Wolfe, who wrote the famous 
poem, ''The Burial of Sir John Moore/' died of 
consumption in 1823. 

After passing our baggage through the Cus- 
tom House, an hour's time was quite sufficient to 



2 A TOUR 

note the few points of interest the place presented, 
and taking rail for Cork, we skirted the beautiful 
river Lee for twelve miles, passing several ancient 
castles and lovely modern country-seats. 

At Cork we took carriage, and drove for six 
miles along the banks of the Lee to Blarney 
Castle, over a road considered the most charming 
in Ireland, passing the Castle of Carrigrohane and 
the Bridge of Inniscarra built by Cromwell in the 
1 6th century. 

Blarney Castle was the stronghold, and long 
the residence of the royal race of McCarthy, by 
whom it was built in the 15th century; all that 
now remains of it is a donjon tower, 125 feet in 
height, with walls 14 feet in thickness, which ren- 
dered it impregnable before the introduction of 
gunpowder. The chief attraction of this castle is 
the famous Blarney-stone, which is supposed to 
endow whoever kisses it with that gift of persuasive 
eloquence so characteristic of the Irish nature. 
This stone, which bears the inscription, '* Cor- 
mach McCarthy, 1446," is placed near the top of 
the tower, and is both difficult and dangerous of 
access ; but a substitute is shown the less venture- 
some below, which is said to possess the same 
virtue as the original. On the river side is shown 
the place where the defenders of the castle poured 
down hot lead upon Cromwell's attacking forces, 
and beneath are the donjon cells, three by five 
feet in dimension, and ventilated only by an inch 



AROUND THE WORLD 3 

hole. An underground passage, also hewn from 
the solid rock, connects the castle with a cave 
some three hundred yards beyond, while the 
grounds surrounding the castle are noticeable both 
for their beauty and their historic interest. 

Returning to Cork by a different road, one has 
a lovely bird's-eye view of that city, picturesquely 
situated on the Lee. It was here that William 
Penn became a convert to Quakerism, and near 
by the place where Sir Walter Raleigh lived, 
planted the potato, and scented the air of Hibernia 
with the fragrant w^eed of our own Virginia. 

Leaving Cork by rail for Bantry — distance 70 
miles — we passed through primitive Ireland, see- 
ing much ignorance and squalor, barefooted, 
ragged mendicants preferring their claim.s upon 
our time and charity at every turn, and miserable 
huts with straw chimneys and dirt floors — man 
and beast sharing alike such poor comfort as 
might be found within them. 

Passing along the bogs one sees men and 
women busily engaged cutting turf — a species of 
black mud composed of decayed vegetable matter, 
which, after having been dried a month, is used 
by the natives for fuel. 

Continuing by stage, a distance of eleven 
miles, we reached Glengariff^ a charming resort 
surrounded by high peaks and lovely lakes. The 
climate here is delightfully mild; flowers bloom- 
ing a month in advance of the season elsewhere. 



4 A TOUR 

while its surrounding views and historic scenes — 
among which may be noted Cromwell's Bridge 
and the Martello Tower — render it a locahty well 
worth visiting. 

At Glengariff we took a wagonette and drove 
to Killarney, a distance of 40 miles, passing 
through the beautiful and extensive estate of 
Lord Bantry, viewing at a distance ''The Nob," 
*' Eagle's Nest," and other features of the wild 
mountain scenery. 

Arriving at the Lakes of Killarney, so justly 
celebrated for their exceeding beauty of scenery, 
we contracted with the proprietor of the hotel to 
send ponies, boats and carriages to different points 
on the lakes. 

At an early hour in the morning we drove, 
attended by a guide, a distance of nine miles to 
the Gap of Dunloe ; stopping en route at the Castle 
and Cave of Dunloe, at the cottage of St. Patrick, 
the tutelary saint of Ireland, near which, legend 
avers, he exterminated the last of the Irish snakes ; 
and at the home of Kate Kearney, where one of 
her descendants dispenses ''mountain dew" to 
the thirsty wayfarer. 

At the entrance to the Gap we mounted ponies, 
and rode a distance of five miles, through a narrow 
mountain defile, passing Macgillicuddy's Reeks, 
and several small lakes ; into one of which the 
author of the Colleen Bawn cast his heroine. 

At the head of the upper lake we entered a 



AROUND THE WORLD. 5 

small row-boat, and proceeded to view the pic- 
turesque scenery bordering its shores. We passed 
Lord Brandon's cottage, '* Eagle's Nest," and 
McCarthy's Island ; shot the rapids under the old 
Weir bridge ; crossed the '' Meeting of the 
Waters" and landed on Dinish Island. 

From here we drove to the Tore, Cascade, and 
thence to the historic ruins of Muckross Abbey. 
This is a grand, old, ivy-covered ruin, in the cen- 
tre of which stands a yew tree 440 years old, and 
surrounding it are the tombs of the McCarthy, the 
Moore, and other names of ancient Ireland. 

Ross Castle — three miles distant- — is another 
fine ruin which withstood the assaults of Crom- 
well in the i6th century; also to be noted are, 
the castle of Lord Kinmare and the ruins oflnnis- 
fallen, so celebrated by Moore in song. Joined to 
the harmonies of sight were those of sound, 
throughout this delightful tour; mountain and 
lake returning echoes from violin, bugle and 
cannon. 

From Killarney to Dublin — a distance of 112 
miles — one passes through a country of no special 
interest. This city, situated on the Liffey, has a 
population of 340,000 inhabitants. Its principal 
buildings are the '' Castle " — the official residence 
of the Lord Lieutenant ; the Bank of Ireland — 
formerly the House of Parliament ; Trinity Col- 
lege ; and the '' Four Courts." The finest streets 
are Sackville and James, on which are erected 



6 A TOUR 

monuments to William III., Nelson, Wellington, 
and O'Connell, and among other places of historic 
interest there also is pointed out the spot where 
Emmet was hung. 

Phoenix Park — one of the most beautiful in the 
United Kingdom — contains the private residence 
of the Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, who may be 
seen driving, surrounded by a strong escort of 
cavalry. The blood of his predecessor. Lord Cav- 
endish, and that of Secretary Burke, was still 
fresh upon the spot where they were assassinated, 
May 6th, 1882; the day previous to our arrival. 

From Dublin w^e went by rail to Portrush, a 
small bathing place in the north of Ireland, and 
from there, by jaunting-car, six miles to the Giant's 
Causeway. This is a basaltic promontory from 
ten to five hundred feet high, and consists of pris- 
matic columns fitting side by side with such 
uniformity, as to look like the work of art ; the 
heating of the rock, and its sudden cooling, is sup- 
posed to be the cause of this remarkable formation. 

The Castle of Dunluce, four miles from the 
Causeway, is the finest ruin in the north of Ireland. 
It is built on a rock and is connected with the 
mainland by a stone bridge only twenty inches in 
width. 

Belfast, the second city in size in Ireland, con- 
tains but little to attract the transient visitor, and 
from here we took the steamer across the Irish 
sea, to Scotland. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 



CHAPTER IL 

THE CLYDE : GLASGOW : AYR : DUMBARTON CASTLE : 
LOCH LOMOND : INVERSNAID : STRONACHLACHER : 
LOCH KATRINE : THE TROSSACHS : CALLANDER : 
STIRLING : EDINBURGH : ROSLIN CHAPEL : HAW- 
THORNDEN : MELROSE ABBEY : DRYBURGH ABBEY : 
ABBOTSFORD. 

Sailing up the river Clyde, we passed large 
numbers of ships in course of construction, from 
the formidable man-of-war and fine merchant 
ship, to various small sized craft destined for 
lighter service. 

Glasgow, the commercial capital of Scotland, 
is finely situated on the river Clyde at the head of 
navigation. It was here that James Watt, in 
1763, first applied steam as a motive power. The 
city has a population of 512,000 inhabitants, and 
contains many handsome buildings and fine statues. 
St. George's Square, centrally located, contains the 
monuments of Sir Walter Scott, the Duke of Wel- 
lington, James Watt, Prince Albert, and Queen 
Victoria ; and is surrounded by the Royal Bank, 
Mechanic's Institute, Royal Exchange, and Post 
Office. The city is noted for its abundant supply 
of fresh water brought from the romantic Loch 
Katrine — a distance of 40 miles. 

The Great Western Cooking Depot, estab- 



8 A TOUR 

lished by one of her philanthropists, is a novel 
and an admirable institution, where a most 
excellent meal is served to the working people at 
three-pence (six cents) each. 

The most important object to be seen in Glas- 
gow is the cathedral, which ranks next to West- 
minster in the kingdom ; particularly admired for 
the rich coloring of its stained-glass windows. It 
is situated in a picturesque spot, partly surrounded 
by an old churchyard or necropolis, which rises 
terraced in the background, and contains some 
beautiful monuments, the most conspicuous of 
which is that erected to the memory of John 
Knox, the great Reformer. The cathedral was 
built in the 1 2th century, is in the form of a Latin 
cross, and of the Gothic style. 

The University, a fine building, costing 
millions of dollars, is located on high ground 
sloping to the river Kelvin, and commands a 
fine view of the city. 

Ayr — 40 miles from Glasgow— -has 18,000 
inhabitants, and is situated on the Ayr river, 
which is crossed by the '' twa brigs," immortal- 
ized by Burns. 

On the site of the prison where Wallace was 
confined a structure now exists called the Wallace 
Tower, in front of which is a statue of that hero, 
and in the Tower are the clock and bells of the 
old donjon steeple. 

Two miles from Ayr is the cottage, divided 



AROUND THE WORLD. 9 

into two rooms, where the poet Burns was born, 
January 25th, 1759, and the bed yet stands in the 
original niche where the poet first saw the hght 
of day. Two miles from this is '' AUoway's auld 
haunted kirk," which has been immortalized by 
Burns in his '^ Tam O'Shanter." In the adjoin- 
ing churchyard are the graves of Tam O'Shanter, 
or Tam Laughlin, from the farm Shanter, and 
those of the poet's parents, on the headstone of 
which is inscribed the following beautiful epitaph, 
written by Burns, on his father : 

** O ye, whose cheek the tear of pity stains, 

Draw near with pious rev'rence and attend ! 
Here lie the loving husband's dear remains, 
The tender father and the gen'rous friend. 

The pitying heart that felt for human woe ; 

The dauntless heart that fear'd no human pride ; 
The friend of man, to vice alone a foe ; 

For ev'n his failings lean'd to virtue's side." 

The ''auld kirk*' is in ruins, but the interest of 
the locality is centred in the graveyard. 

A short distance to the west is the well where 
Mungo's ''mither hanged hersel," and near by is 
a fine monument to Burns, in the interior of which 
are relics belonging to him — original manuscript, 
wedding-ring, a lock of his Highland Mary's hair, 
and two bibles given her by the poet. In a cave 
on the grounds is a monument to Tam O'Shanter 
and Souter Johnnie, and a few steps further on 



10 A TOUR 

the '' auld brig o'Doon," over which Tarn took 
his famous nocturnal ride. 

From here we drove back to Ayr by another 
road, passing the cottage where two of Burns's 
nieces hve — old ladies upward of eighty. We 
then visited the tavern where Tam and Souter 
Johnnie used to meet and carouse, sat in their 
chairs, and drank from their cups. 

Sixteen miles from Glasgow is Dumbarton 
Castle. This fortress stands on a rocky height 
six hundred feet above the river, commanding 
extensive views in every direction, the ascent 
being made by many steps cut in the solid rock. 
The armory contains the sword of Wallace, which 
is more than seven feet long, and over the inner 
gate is a room where he was confined a prisoner; 
the face of Wallace and that of Monteith, his 
betrayer, being cut in the stone wall outside. To 
this castle Mary Queen of Scots was brought 
when a child. Charles I., and Cromwell succes- 
sively occupied it, and Queen Victoria visited it 
in 1847. 

Two miles from here is Cardross Castle, where 
Robert Bruce died in 1329. 

. Arriving at Balloch Pier, on Loch Lomond, 
we sailed for two hours amid the many beautiful 
islands which gem its surface, surrounded by 
exquisite mountain views, passing Ben Lomond, a 
high mountain peak, in the distance, and nearing 
Rob Roy's cave and rock, where he suspended 



AROUND THE WORLD. II 

his prisoners by a rope until they agreed upon 
what ransom they would pay. 

At Inversnaid we landed and took stage 
through a mountainous country — the scene of 
Sir Walter Scott's Rob Roy — to Stronachlacher, 
passing on the roadside a stone cottage, once 
occupied by Helen MacGregor, Rob- Roy's wife. 

Here, by steamer ''Rob Roy," we sailed 
through Loch Katrine, which teems with the 
poetry of Scott's '' Lady of the Lake," passing 
the island where Rob Roy put the steward ashore 
and left him, after taking his money ; Ellen 
Douglas' Isle, the Silver Strand, Ben Venue, and 
the place where James and Roderick Dhu first 
met. 

From the end of the lake we drove through 
the Trossachs — a wild, heather-grown gorge, and 
stopped at the hotel of the same name, for a brief 
rest. Continuing our drive we passed Ben Lodi, 
Loch Venachar, and Coilantogle's Ford, where the 
combat took place between Roderick Dhu and 
Fitz James, after Roderick had discharged his ob- 
ligation of conducting him there safely. 

From Callander we went by rail to Stirling, 
a place of great antiquity ; with a population of 
13,000. 

Stirling Castle, around which is centered so 
much of historic interest, is built upon a rocky 
elevation of 380 feet; the battlements of which 
command a magnificent view. Secure on account 



12 A TOUR 

of its central location and inaccessible situation, it 
early became a place of great importance, and was 
for a long time the residence of the kings. 

Inside the castle walls is the palace built by 
James V., and ornamented by statues of himself 
and his favorite courtiers. In the chapel adjoin- 
ing, Mary was crowned Queen of Scots, and her 
son, afterwards James VI. of Scotland and I. of 
England, baptized. 

It was the birthplace of James II., and of James 
v., and a favorite residence of James VI., who was 
crowned in the old church near by ; John Knox 
preaching the coronation sermon. 

One of the most interesting places in the castle 
is the Douglas room, in which William, Earl of 
Douglas, was assassinated by James IL, after that 
monarch had promised him safe conduct. Here 
is shown the window from which the lifeless body 
was thrown ; also the secret stairway leading from 
this room, by which the king sometimes left the 
castle in disguise. From the battlements, no less 
than eight battlefields are in sight ; on one of 
which Bruce secured the independence of Scotland, 
by his victory at Bannockburn, in 13 14; and on 
another where William Wallace achieved a great 
triumph over the English in 1287. 

A drive of four miles from Stirling brought us 
to Cambuskenneth Abbey, w^iere are interred the 
remains of James III. On the way we passed the 
Wallace Tower — an immense monument built at 



AROUND THE WORLD. 1 3 

a height of 200 feet ; Darnley's house ; and Queen 
Mary's palace. 

Edinburgh was first called Edwin's borough, 
from the fact that King Edward pitched his tent 
on the rock where the castle now stands. The 
city, which contains 230,000 inhabitants, is situated 
on both sides of a deep ravine, and, for its size, is 
one of the most imposing, interesting and magni- 
ficent cities in Europe, and has often been styled 
" the modern Athens." Princes and George streets 
are the fashionable thoroughfares, lined with ele- 
gant buildings and fine monuments ; the most 
conspicuous of which is a monument to Sir Walter 
Scott, 200 feet high, with a statue of himself and 
dog under a stone canopy surrounded by fifty 
smaller statues representing characters in his 
novels. 

Edinburgh Castle, whose origin is clouded in 
obscurity, is one of the fortresses which, by the 
articles of union between England and Scotland, 
must be kept fortified ; and is teeming with roman- 
tic and historic interest. Sir William Kirkaldy 
defended it thirty-three days for Mary, Queen of 
Scots, against the combined armies of England 
and Scotland. The room is shown where that 
unfortunate queen became a mother; and the 
window where her son, when only eight days old, 
was lowered in a basket, to be conveyed to a place 
of greater safety. 

In a room over one of the inner gates, the 



14 A TOUR 

Duke of Argyle slept, the night previous to his 
execution ; and in the tower, strongly guarded, 
are the crown jewels of Scotland, consisting of 
crown, sceptre, sword, plate, and decorations set 
with precious stones. These were lost for over a 
hundred years, and but recently found by Sir 
Walter Scott, in an old chest in the castle. 

Mons Meg, a gigantic cannon, twenty inches 
in diameter at the bore, used in 1514 at the siege 
of Norham Castle, is to be seen on the battle- 
ments. 

The Museum contains many interesting relics, 
among which are the *' Maiden " or guillotine, 
used in the time of the Covenanters ; the stool 
which Jeanie Geddes threw at the Dean of St. 
Giles ; thumb-screws, and other instruments of 
torture. 

The National Gallery is filled with rare speci- 
mens of art, and on this spot formerly stood the 
house where Lord Darnley was blown up. 

Holyrood Palace, built in 1501 by James IV., 
was the home of that lovely but unfortunate queen, 
Mary Stuart, in which she lived with Darnley for 
a time. Among the apartments shown, are Lord 
Darnley's rooms, hung with fine tapestry ; and in 
his bed-chamber, the bed occupied by Charles I. 
From Darnley's apartments leading up to Queen 
Mary's rooms, is a private staircase by which the 
assassins of Rizzio ascended to murder that un- 
fortunate secretary. Mary's supper room, an 



AROUND THE WORLD. 1 5 

apartment so famous in Scottish history, was the 
scene of Rizzio's murder, which took place while 
he was at supper with the queen. 

The objects of interest in the old quarter of 
Edinburgh are John Knox's church and tomb ; 
Greyfriar's cemetery, where 18,000 martyrs are 
buried; the Heart of Mid-Lothian, a- large stone 
heart, marking the spot where the prison once 
stood ; and the Grass Market, formerly a place of 
execution, where the Dukes of Argyle, Montforth, 
and many others of more or less note were be- 
headed. 

Roslin Chapel, built by the St. Clairs in the 
nth century, and in which they were buried in 
armor, is particularly noted for its fine carvings 
and Gothic architecture. The Apprentice Pillar, for 
which the apprentice lost his life, having completed 
it while the master was in Rome in search of a 
design, is exceedingly beautiful. Roslin Castle, a 
short distance from the chapel, is situated on a 
cliff overhanging the river Esk, and among its 
subterranean dungeons is one which was occupied 
by Queen Mary for several weeks. 

Walking along the river, a distance of two 
miles, through a romantic and lovely ravine, we 
reached Hawthornden, the home of the poet 
Drummond. Here is to be seen the sword of 
Robert Bruce, and the caves in which he and 
Wallace took refuge at different times. These 
caves are cut in the rock underneath the poet's 



l6 A TOUR 

residence, and connect with Roslin Castle by a 
passage under the river. 

Melrose Abbey, the chief attraction of a small 
village of the same name, on the river Tweed, is 
an old, roofless, ivy-covered ruin. It was founded 
in 1 1 36 by King David I., who lies interred here 
with his queen. Here also is buried the heart of 
Robert Bruce, Michael Scott, the wizard, Alex- 
ander II., the royal family of Douglas, Brewster 
the historian, and Tom Purdy, Sir Walter Scott's 
forester. The old clock, which time has robbed 
of both figures and hands, still denotes the hour, 
which is sounded by strokes of the old bell. In 
the centre of the Abbey stands a broken column, 
which was the favorite seat of Sir Walter Scott 
when he came to gather fresh inspiration from the 
grand and varied beauty of the scene. 

From Melrose, a drive of four miles brought 
us to Dryburgh Abbey, the burial place of Sir 
Walter Scott, and the most picturesque ruin in all 
Scotland. Adjoining the Abbey are the remains 
of the cloister ; and a hole in the wall of a cell 
shows where refractory monks were punished by 
having their hands wedged in with wood. 

Leaving Dryburgh — the home of the dead — 
we drove seven miles to Abbotsford, the late 
residence of Sir Walter Scott, a most imposing 
mansion, situated on the banks of the river 
Tweed, in the midst of well-kept grounds. The 
study contains his leather arm-chair, pipes and 



AROUND THE WORLD. \^ 

canes as he left them. The hbrary has some 
twenty thousand volumes, and in it are the chairs 
presented him by George IV., and Pope Pius VII., 
the portfolio, pen-case, and cloak-clasps of Napo- 
leon, taken at the battle of Waterloo, locks of 
Wellington's and Nelson's hair, Rob Roy's purse, 
Helen MacGregor's brooch, Tam O'Shanter's 
snuff-box, and Robert Burns's drinking-glass. 
The drawing-room is elegantly finished in carved 
wood, and contains many handsome paintings. 
The armory is a small room, with arms tastefully 
arranged on the walls, among which are the swords 
of the Earl of Montrose and of Colonel Scott, 
Napoleon's pistols, Rob Roy's shield and gun, the 
spurs of Prince Charlie, and the armor of James 
VI. ; besides these is a candlestick formerly be- 
longing to Bruce, the crucifix carried by Queen 
Mary to execution, her money-box, and the keys 
of Loch Leven Castle, From the armory a door 
opens into the dining-room, where Sir Walter 
died, his couch commanding a view of the river 
Tweed from the window. The main hall, a beau- 
tiful apartment of carved wood, marble floor, and 
stained-glass windows, is hung with arms and 
armor of all descriptions ; and in it is seen a clock 
of Marie Antoinette, a cast of Bruce's skull, and 
that of one of a life-guard, who killed thirteen men 
with his fist at Waterloo, Napoleon's armor, the 
keys of the old tolbooth — the Heart of Mid-Lo- 
thian — and the clothes, shoes and hat last worn by 



I 8 A TOUR 



Scott. In the grounds, near the main entrance, 
is a bronze monument placed over the remains of 
the author's favorite dog, Meda. 

Truly a baronial mansion, and one full of 
interest. 



CHAPTER III 



LONDON. ITS ENVIRONS. 



London, the metropolis of the United Kingdom 
of Great Britain, and the largest city in the world, 
is situated on the Thames river, 45 miles from its 
mouth, and has a population of nearly 4,000,000. 
The older portion of the city is on the north bank 
of the river, and embraces but a small part of the 
area of modern London ; it is of great antiquity ; 
but very little being known of it previous to the 
time of Nero, when it bore the dignity of a Roman 
colony. 

Starting from the Bank of England, the treas- 
ury of Great Britain, and commercial and financial 
centre of the city, we drove past St. Paul's Cathe- 
dral, Temple Bar — where formerly stood one of 
the old gates of the city, the Courts of Justice, 
the old graveyard, near by — made mention of by 
Dickens in '' Bleak House," where little Joe peered 
through the railing, at the grave of his only friend, 



AROUND THE WORLD. IQ 

Temple Church, where Oliver Goldsmith is buried, 
and Somerset House. Continuing down the strand 
— one of the principal thoroughfares of the city, on 
which are located many of the theatres, we reached 
Charing Cross — a locality which takes its name 
from one of the five crosses which mark the rest- 
ing-places of the funeral procession of a Queen of 
England. 

Trafalgar Square, the finest in the city, is over- 
looked by the principal hotels, and contains a 
beautiful monument to Nelson, surrounded by 
fountains and colossal figures of recumbent lions, 
and other statues. 

In a narrow street leading from the square, is 
still to be seen the ** Old Curiosity Shop," presided 
over by an old Jew and his little daughter — com- 
pleting the picture so touchingly described by 
Dickens. 

Continuing through Pall Mall, where are situ- 
ated the principal club-houses, we passed the 
Crimean monument in Waterloo Place, Marlbor- 
ough House — the residence of the Prince and 
Princess of Wales, St. James' Palace and Park, 
Buckingham Palace — the Queen's city residence, 
and Wellington's statue, located at Hyde Park 
Corner — the fashionable quarter of London. 

Hyde Park, the great pleasure drive of the 
city, contains 350 acres, and is laid out with fine 
carriage- roads and paths intersecting each other 
at every point ; the portion called Rotten Row be- 



20 A TOUR 

ing devoted exclusively to equestrians. On the 
southern limit of the park stands the Albert 
Memorial, said to be the finest monument in the 
world, and costing $500,000. The four large 
marble groups at the outer corner represent Eu- 
rope, Asia, Africa, and America ; the upper cor- 
ner marble groups, Agriculture, Manufacture, 
Commerce, and Engineering ; while the carved 
figures which surround the base number 169, and 
represent renowned painters, poets, sculptors and 
statesmen. The monument is of brown stone, 
180 feet high, and under the canopy which is 
studded with 12,000 stones, is the sitting figure 
of Prince Albert in gilt. 

The Zoological Gardens of London contain the 
largest collection of animals, birds and insects 
known in the world ; the larger animals being 
particularly fine ; the fashionable day to visit '' the 
Zoo " is on Sunday, when admittance is gained 
only by card. 

The Tower of London, supposed to have been 
commenced by Julius Caesar, is situated at the 
eastern extremity of the city, and covers 1 2 acres 
of ground. On the river-side is the entrance, 
called the Traitor's Gate, through which prisoners 
of state were conveyed in boats after trial. Within 
this famous structure are numerous buildings, in- 
cluding barracks, armories and towers, viz : the 
Bloody Tower — where Richard III. murdered his 
nephews ; the Bowyer Tower — where the Duke 



AROUND THE WORLD. 21 

of Clarence was drowned in a butt of Malmsey 
wine; the Brick Tower — in which Lady Jane 
Grey was confined ; the Beauchamp Tower — the 
prison of Anne Boleyn, and numerous others of 
equally historic association. In addition to the 
original use of the Tower as a fortress, it was 
the residence of the monarchs of England down to 
the time of Elizabeth, and a prison for state crim- 
inals. 

Numerous are the kings, queens, warriors and 
statesmen, who have not only been imprisoned, 
but murdered within its walls; among whom 
were Catherine Howard, Sir Walter Raleigh, 
Somerset, Sir Thomas Moore, William Wallace, 
and King John of France. In the Tower in- 
closure is the Horse Armory, built in 1826 — 
an extensive gallery in which is a finely-arranged 
collection of armor used from the 13th to the 
1 8th century; including suits worn by the Prince 
of Wales — son of James L, Henry VIII. , Dudley, 
Earl of Leicester, Charles I., and John of Gaunt. 

Queen Elizabeth's armory is filled with old 
arms artistically arranged on walls and ceilings, 
representing floral and other designs ; instruments 
of torture are numerous, among them being the 
block on which Lords Kilmarnoch and Balmerino 
were executed in 1745. The Jewel House con- 
tains all the crown jewels of England — crowns, 
scepters, swords, orbs and maces of gold studded 
with precious stones ; Queen Victoria's crown 



22 A TOUR . 

containing the celebrated Koh-i-noor diamond, 
and the heart-shaped ruby worn by the Black 
Prince ; while St. Peter's chapel is interesting as 
the burial place of many royal victims. The war- 
dens of the Tower still dress in the costumes of 
the Beef-eaters of the time of Henry VIII. 

Westminster Abbey was founded in the year 
6io, and within its venerable walls repose the 
ashes of kings, queens, and distinguished men — 
the first interment being that of King Harold. 
Their respective places of rest are marked by 
sumptuous monuments in marble and bronze. 
Among them are the tombs of Edward the Con- 
fessor, Edward I., Edward III., Edward V., and 
P^dward VI. ; Richard II., Henry III., Henry V, 
and Henry VII. ; James I., Charles II., William 
III., and George II. ; Queens Mary, Elizabeth, 
Mary of Scotland, and Anne ; also the remains of 
the two princes murdered in the Tower. In the 
Poets' Corner lie Milton, Dryden, Chaucer, Spen- 
cer, Garrick, Dickens, and others noted in the 
world of letters. In the opposite transept, allotted 
to statesmen, are Pitt, Wilberforce, Palmerston, 
Canning, and a host of other distinguished names. 
Separating the transepts is the altar, where the 
sovereigns of England have received the crown 
from the hands of the Archbishop since the church 
was built ; and in the rear of the altar stands the 
old coronation chair of England's sovereigns, 
beneath which is the famous stone on which the 



AROUND THE WORLD. 23 

Scottish kings were crowned, brought to England 
by Edward I., in 1297. In the nave of the church 
are slabs on the floor, memorials of Livingston, 
the African explorer, Peabody, the philanthropist, 
whose remains were afterwards removed to Amer- 
ica, and Charles Robert Darwin, the great philos- 
opher of this age. 

The British Museum is a magnificent edifice 
in the Grecian style of architecture, and contains 
an immense and ancient collection of original 
manuscripts ; Egyptian, Greek, and Roman an- 
tiquities, mausolea, the Winged Bulls from 
Sennacherib's palace at Nineveh, Assyrian relics, 
the Elgin statuary, and zoological and mineral 
collections. 

In the Egyptian department, besides many 
of the oldest stone inscriptions known to exist, is 
the Rosetta stone, carved with hieroglyphic, en- 
chorial, and Greek characters, dating 200 years 
B.C., and discovered by the French in 1799. 
This stone was found near Rosetta, in Egypt, and 
was instrumental in enabling scholars to decipher 
hieroglyphic characters, and through them to 
learn much of ancient history. 

The Kensington Museum, located in a park of 
the same name, covers many acres of ground, and 
requires a day simply to walk through it, bestow- 
ing only a hurried glance at the most important 
objects. It has an extensive and valuable collec- 
tion of antiquities, ceramics, bronzes, Japanese 



24 A TOUR 

wares, silver and gold plate, ancient furniture and 
tapestry, mosaics, terra-cottas and sculpture. The 
galleries are extensive, and contain some fine 
paintings, among which are *' Napoleon's Fare- 
well to France," and the '' Death of Amy Rob- 
sart." The East India Museum connected with 
this building, comprises a very rich and curious 
collection of Oriental arms, costumes, and carv- 
ings, presented to the Prince of Wales by the 
native princes of India, on the occasion of his 
travels through that country. 

The Houses of Parliament — magnificent 
buildings, where the sittings of the great council 
of England are held, and where the laws of the 
realm are framed — are located on the Thames, 
and cover eight acres of ground. There are five 
hundred apartments in these buildings, and the 
Victoria Tower is 336 feet high. Nearly 500 
statues are distributed about the building, and 
numerous beautiful paintings and frescoes adorn 
the walls and ceilings. In the House of Lords, 
rich in gildings and carvings, is the throne-chair, 
used by the Queen when she opens Parliament. 
The House of Commons is small and plainly 
finished. It has a free-and-easy appearance, the 
members having no particular seats assigned 
them — benches being used instead of chairs — 
and they loll about with their hats on during 
debate. 

St. Paul's Cathedral, in the most central part 



AROUND THE WORLD. 25 

of the metropolis, is on the site where formerly- 
stood another cathedral 400 years previous to the 
Norman conquest. From the pavement of the 
crypt to the top of the cross surmounting it, it is 
375 feet, and the minute hand of the clock in the 
belfry is said to be ten feet in length. In the 
body of the cathedral are fine monuments to 
Nelson, Wellington, Collingwood, Picton and 
other heroes, while in the crypt are the remains 
of the architect. Sir Christopher Wren, and those 
of Wellington and Nelson, in granite tombs, 
surrounded by constantly burning torches. Here, 
also, is the catafalque, formed of captured cannon, 
which bore Wellington's remains to their last 
resting-place. 

The National Picture Gallery in Trafalgar 
Square contains numerous gems of painting and 
statuary ; most of the pictures are old, and from 
Biblical subjects, principally of the Italian, Spanish, 
French and Flemish schools, and some of the best 
works of Raphael, Correggio, Rubens and Murillo, 
are to be found here. 

The Royal Mews — or stables — at Bucking- 
ham Palace, contains one hundred horses ; those 
used on state occasions being magnificent animals 
of a uniform cream color. The carriages are of 
great variety: the state carriage, heavily gilded 
and ornamented, and weighing several tons, being 
the handsomest in the collection. The harness 
belonging to this equipage glitters with burnished 



26 A TOUR 

brass, and weighs 500 pounds to the horse, often 
causing the animal to fall beneath its burden. 

Madame Tussaud's Wax-works is one of the 
great sights of London, and is said to be the finest 
collection of the kind in the world ; the models 
exhibited being the result of many years' patient 
and careful study. The suite of rooms in which 
the collection is displayed is gorgeously decorated 
and gilded ; the walls hung with crimson cloth 
and costly oil paintings. The figures comprise 
300 portrait models of celebrities of ancient and 
modern times, including the complete line of the 
kings and queens of England, and images of 
the Pope of Rome, Napoleon L, and the Czar 
Alexander II. of Russia, lie here in state. The 
costumes are the identical ones, or correct copies, 
of those worn by the originals of these effigies, 
and are valuable both from their intrinsic worth, 
and for their historic accuracy. Curious and life- 
like characters are those of an old man seated 
upon one of the benches in the midst of the 
spectators, moving his head while taking snuff, 
apparently absorbed in watching the moving crowd 
around him ; and of a beautiful woman reclining 
in uneasy slumber, her breast heaving with evi- 
dent agitation — the night previous to execution. 
The Chamber of Horrors contains the figures of 
notorious criminals, and the guillotine used in 
France during the Revolution. 

The collection also includes a large number of 



AROUND THE WORLD. 2J 

relics of Napoleon, among which are his camp- 
chair, table and carriage, taken at Waterloo ; Vol- 
taire's chair, and the key of the Bastile. 

On June 3d, 1882, we witnessed a review of 
the military or ''Trooping of the Colors," as it is 
called — in St. James* Park, in honor of Queen 
Victoria's 63d birthday. The celebration was at- 
tended by many distinguished guests, including 
the Prince and Princess of Wales and family, the 
Countess Burdett-Coutts and others. 

Spurgeon — London's noted preacher — may 
be heard Sundays in the Tabernacle, which seats 
5,000 people, and is always crowded by attentive 
listeners — chiefly of the middle and lower classes 
— apparently absorbed by his simple and earnest 
eloquence. 

The Derby race at Epsom is celebrated once 
a year, when all classes make it a holiday. The 
steam-cars run from London to Epsom Downs, 
but to go by the road is to see London on wheels : 
from the four-in-hand private drag, elegantly 
mounted, down to the costermonger's cart drawn 
by the smallest donkey. Leaving the Grand 
Hotel on top of a four-in-hand coach, with a few 
friends, we started at 10 A. M. by the road, a dis- 
tance of 16 miles, to Epsom, and soon joined a 
tide of humanity bound for the same place. On 
the ground were 400,000 people. The races, six 
in number, were exciting; but more interesting 
than they, were the great mass of humanity ; the 



28 A TOUR 

numberless side-shows of every description, and 
the wandering minstrels moving about the grounds 
seizing every opportunity to earn a small pit- 
tance, rendered the scene a perfect carnival. 

Windsor Castle is situated on the river Thames, 
20 miles from London. It has been the favorite 
seat of the sovereigns of Great Britain for the past 
eight centuries, and, even before Windsor Castle 
was founded by William the Conquerer, the Saxon 
kings resided on the spot. The rooms shown to 
visitors are the Queen's audience and presence 
chambers, the reception, throne. Van Dyke, 
Rubens and Zaccarelli rooms, and the banqueting 
hall, all of which are elegantly furnished and hung 
with fine paintings and Gobelin tapestry. St. 
George's Chapel in the enclosure, is a splendid 
specimen of Gothic architecture ; in it the Prince 
and Princess of Wales were married with great 
pomp. In the vault lie the remains of many of 
England's sovereigns, including Henry VIII. and 
his queen, Jane Seymour, George III. and his 
queen, William IV. and his queen, Charles I., and 
the Princess Charlotte. It is in this chapel the in- 
stallation of the Knights of the Garter takes place. 

The Albert Chapel, a memorial to the Prince 
Consort, was originally erected by Henry VII. as 
a place of sepulture for himself Afterwards Car- 
dinal Wolsey obtained a grant of it from Henry 
VIII., and prepared it as a receptacle for his own 
remains. This chapel has been embellished with 



AROUND THE WORLD. 29 

unsparing magnificence by Queen Victoria, in 
memory of Prince Albert, and the interior is said 
to be the richest in the world. The entire vaulted 
roof has been covered with mosaic figures, orna- 
ments and inscriptions, with gold-enamel, in bas- 
relief; the floor and walls are beautifully inlaid 
with every variety of highly-polished marble and 
agate, in exquisite designs, and the window is of 
stained glass, with full-length figures of Henry 
VIII. and Wolsey. In the centre of the building 
is placed a cenotaph with a recumbent figure of 
the Prince in armor, and on it is inscribed : 



* I have fought the good fight ; 
I have finished my course." 



The Crystal Palace at Sydenham — an hour's 
ride from London — is an interesting place to 
spend a day, affording an opportunity for the 
study of both nature and art. The gardens are 
very fine ; their beautiful walks, serpentine 
streams, statues, fountains and lawns, rendering it 
a delightful resort. A portion of the building is 
appropriated to tropical trees and plants ; another 
to courts of Egyptian, Greek, and Roman sculp- 
ture and architecture, which contain copies of the 
masterpieces of the great sculptors of both an- 
cient and modern times. 

Kew Garden, the most complete botanical 
gardens in the world, cover several hundred acres 



30 A TOUR 

of highly cultivated ground. It has an extensive 
palm house, and many conservatories. 

From Kew we drove through Bushy Park, 
noted for its avenue — a mile in length — of 
chestnut-trees, planted by William of Orange, 
and dined at the famous inn, the '' Star and Gar- 
ter," near the entrance to Hampton Court 
grounds. 

Hampton Court, the palace presented to 
Henry the VHI. by Cardinal Wolsey, is situated 
near the banks of the Thames, and surrounded by 
extensive grounds. In the vinery is a grape vine 
112 years old, bearing annually 800 lbs of fruit. 
Near the entrance is ''the Maze," whose devious 
and intricate windings afford much perplexity and 
amusement to the unwary visitor. The palace is 
of red brick, with stone ornamentation, and was 
the birthplace of Edward VI. Here, the masques 
and tournaments of Philip and Mary, and of 
Elizabeth, took place; and also the celebration of 
the marriage of the daughter of Cromwell to Lord 
Falkinbury. The interior of the palace has an 
extensive collection of paintings and tapestry, the 
latter representing incidents in the history of 
Alexander the Great ; and among the portraits 
are the beauties of the Court of Charles II. In 
the bedroom of William III. is the state bed of 
Queen Charlotte, hung in embroidered satin 
draperies. 

Embarking from here in one of the small boats 



AROUND THE WORLD. 3 I 

which daily ply the Thames, we skirted the banks 
of Battersea Park, passed the Houses of Parlia- 
ment and Cleopatra's Needle, steamed under 
Westminster, Waterloo, Blackfriars and London 
bridges, over the subway and tunnel which con- 
nect, under water, both banks of the river, passed 
the Tower of London, and landed at - Greenwich, 
noted for its fine observatory, from which point 
the world's time is computed. 



CHAPTER IV. 

OXFORD : LEAMINGTON : WARWICK : KENILWORTH : 
COVENTRY : STRATFORD-ON-AVON : CHESTER I LIV- 
ERPOOL : LANCASTER : BOWNESS : ENGLISH LAKES : 
PENRITH : CARLISLE : NEWCASTLE : YORK : SHEF- 
FIELD : ROWSLEY : MANCHESTER : RHYL : CONWAY : 
BETTWS-Y-COED : FFESTINIOG : BRIGHTON : PORTS- 
MOUTH : cowES : Newport : Southampton. 

Oxford, situated at the confluence of the Cher- 
well, Thames, and Isis rivers, has a population of 
40,000. It was once the favorite residence of 
Canute, and of Henry I. and Henry IL, during 
which time the valiant son of the latter, Richard 
Coeur de Lion, was born. The city was stormed 
in 1067 by William the Conqueror; the part of 
the castle which he erected still stands, and is now 
used as a jail. Oxford is noted for its University, 



32 A TOUR 

which consists of 19 colleges, one of them having 
been founded by Alfred the Great. In front of 
Baliol College is a beautiful monument marking 
the place where Ridley, Latimer, and Cranmer 
were burnt at the stake. In the museum, among 
other interesting relics, is Guy Fawkes' lantern, 
used by him in the celebrated Gunpowder Plot. 

Leamington, on the river Leam, is a beautiful 
city, with lovely parks and wide streets, lined 
with trees, and has a population of 23,000. It is 
noted for its medicinal baths, and is environed by 
six battlefields, viz., Eversham, where Prince Ed- 
ward defeated Simon de Montfort ; Tewksbury, 
where the Yorkists defeated the Lancastrians ; 
Bosworth, where Henry VII. defeated Richard 
III., and ended the War of the Roses; Edgehill, 
which begun, and Naseby, which terminated, the 
conflict between Charles I., and the Parliament; 
and Worcester, where Charles II. made a last 
effort to reverse the fortunes of Cromwell. 

Warwick Castle, two miles from Leamington, 
guarded by embattled walls and stupendous 
towers, covered without with ivy, and adorned 
within by frescoes and paintings, is situated on 
elevated ground, which slopes down to the Avon. 
It is at the present time, notwithstanding its an- 
tiquity, considered one of the most magnificent 
castles in the kingdom, its history dating back to 
the Conquest. The principal towers which guard 
its walls are Caesar's, Guy's, and the Clock, 



AROUND THE WORLD. 33 

beneath which are donjons formerly used for 
prisoners. In the great hall of the castle are 
Cromwell's helmet, the horse-trappings used by 
Queen Elizabeth, and the sword and porridge-pot 
of the nine-foot giant, Guy, Earl of Warwick. It 
was here that Queen Elizabeth stopped over 
night on her way to visit Dudley, Earl of Leices- 
ter, at Kenilworth, and though several centuries 
have elapsed since then, the arrangement of the 
room she occupied remains the same to this day, 
under its present owner. Earl George Guy Grev- 
ille. In the conservatory is the celebrated War- 
wick vase, found at the bottom of the lake at 
Hadrian's villa; it is a fine specimen of Grecian 
sculpture, cut from a single block of marble, and 
will hold 188 gallons. 

In the town of Warwick is St. Mary's Church, 
where there are many fine monuments, that of 
Richard Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, being one 
of the finest in England. Here, also, is buried 
Dudley, Earl of Leicester, one of the favorites of 
Elizabeth, the fickle queen, lying by the side of 
his third wife, who survived him. His first wife 
was Amy Robsart, whose sad fate needs no 
reminder; his second likewise died — of poison — 
at the hands of her cruel lord, and the third es- 
caped the same fate through a mistake, Leicester 
himself taking the poisoned draught intended for 
her; these crimes being induced by his ambitious 
designs to obtain the hand of Elizabeth. 

3 



34 A TOUR 

Leicester Hospital, which furnishes a Hfe home 
for twelve veterans, was endowed by Dudley, and 
is an ancient and picturesque building. 

Kenilworth Castle, three miles from Warwick, 
is one of the grandest ruins in England, its ivy- 
covered walls teeming with the romance of history, 
which the eloquent pen of Sir Walter Scott has 
transmitted to posterity. The castle was founded 
by Geoffrey de Clinton, and Henry HI. gave it to 
Simon de Montfort ; John of Gaunt and Henry IV. 
both occupied it, and Elizabeth presented it to her 
favorite, Leicester, who entertained her here with 
royal magnificence. Those portions of the ruins 
which are in the best state of preservation are, the 
banqueting hall, where feasts and revels were held 
with boundless extravagance, and the tower, in 
which the unfortunate Amy Robsart was confined 
previous to meeting her terrible fate. From Ken- 
ilworth we continued to Guy's ClifT, the romantic 
spot where dwelt the Saxon hero, Guy, Earl of 
Warwick, who retired here to a hermit's cave, 
after a series of marvellous achievements, and 
thence we drove to Stoneleigh Abbey, the resi- 
dence of Lord Leigh, who has an area of 6,000 
acres, with a well-stocked deer park and fine 
grounds. 

Coventry, five miles from Kenilworth, is noted 
chiefly as the scene of the Lady Godiva's ride 
through the streets, clothed only in the mantle of 
modesty, prompted by the cruel taunt of her hus- 



AROUND THE WORLD. 35 

band, King Leofric, who consented, on these 
terms, to yield to her a charter freeing the inhabi- 
tants from the unjust taxation to which they had 
previously been subjected. The effigy of Peeping 
Tom, whose curiosity cost him his sight, is yet to 
be seen on the sight of his cobbler-shop, the place 
where he was discovered. 

Stratford-on-Avon, the birthplace and burial- 
place of Shakespeare, is eight miles east of War- 
wick. The house in which this immortal genius 
was born is quaint and humble, and remains the 
same as when Shakespeare occupied it. In one 
room of the house are preserved relics of the 
bard, his signet ring, sword, manuscripts, and 
other documents bearing in the cross-mark of his 
father and sister, evidence of their illiteracy. 

Near the town is the old church in which 
Shakespeare lies buried, his wife and daughter 
lying on either side of him ; and in a niche in Jihe. 
chancel is a bust of the bard, which is considered 
the most authentic likeness extant. 

The slab over his grave bears the inscription, 
written by himself, which- has guarded his remains 
from the hand of desecration to this day : 

** Blest be he, who spares my bones, 

And curs'd be he, who moves these stones." 

One mile distant is the cottage where Anne 
Hathaway lived; the house, with its furniture — 
including the bench where Shakespeare made love 



^6 A TOUR 

to her — remains unchanged; and is occupied by 
an ancient dame, a descendant of the Hatha- 
ways. 

Chester, one of the oldest cities in England, 
founded by the Romans, is on the river Dee, com- 
pletely surrounded by a wall, two miles in circuit, 
which is now used as a promenade. From the 
Phoenix Tower, on the walls, Charles I. witnessed 
the defeat of his army by Cromwell's forces. The 
castle, erected in the time of William the Con- 
querer, is well preserved; and the Cathedral is a 
venerable structure on the site of an ancient Saxon^ 
monastery. The characteristic feature of the town 
is its antique and singular looking houses, with 
side- walks for pedestrians on the second story, 
which are bordered by shops. 

Liverpool, on the river Mersey, is noted for 
the magnificence of its docks, which cover 200 
acres in extent, and has 15 miles of quays. 

Lancaster, on the Lune, has a fine castle; and 
is noted for the part it took in the Wars of the 
Roses. The town received its first charter from 
King John, and now gives the title of Duke to the 
Prince of Wales. 

Bowness, on Lake Windermere, opposite Belle 
Isle, is a charming spot ; and from the overlook- 
ing heights are afforded the loveliest views of lake 
and landscape. Windermere, the most beautiful of 
all the English lakes, is eleven miles long and one 
wide; small steamers ply its waters, threading its 



AROUND THE WORLD. 37 

islands, and affording glimpses of the lovely villas 
nestling among the hills on its banks. 

Taking stage from Bowness we followed Lake 
Windermere, passing Wray Castle and Ambleside ; 
then Rydal Waters, on which is the home and 
favorite seat of the poet Wordsworth ; *' Dove's 
Nest,'' where lived Mrs. Hemans;- the cottage 
where Coleridge lived and died; and lastly the 
lakes Grasmere, Thirlmere and Derwentwater. 
Near the latter are Keswick and the beautiful falls 
of Lodore, described by the poet Southey, whose 
remains lie in the churchyard near by. 

Penrith, environed by the seats of many of 
England's nobility, is noted for the ruins of its fine 
castle, which was once the residence of Richard 
III. From here, continuing our route, we stopped 
at Carlisle, in order to visit its ancient castle and 
cathedral ; then passing through Newcastle, noted 
for its coals, whence the expression, " carrying 
coals to Newcastle;" and Durham, celebrated for 
its fine breed of cattle, we reached York. 

This city, situated on the banks of the Ouse, 
w^hose history dates back 1000 years B. C, has a 
population of 55,000. It is partially inclosed by 
ancient walls, the top of which afford a delightful 
promenade and a fine view of the city and sub- 
urbs. It is claimed that Constantine the Great 
was born in York in 272 A. D., and that his 
father, Constantius, died here in 307 A. D. 

This city has always held a conspicuous place 



38 A TOUR 

in all disturbances of the country, particularly in 
the Wars of the Roses. Its objects of greatest in- 
terest are, the old castle built by William I., the 
Cathedral, the second largest in England — its 
length being 524 feet ^- and the ruins of an ancient 
picturesque abbey, situated on the banks of the 
river Ouse, 

" From Sheffield, a city of 285,000 inhabitants, 
chiefly noted for its manufacture of cutlery, we 
reached our next point of destination, Rowsley. 

This place is the nucleus from which excursions 
are made to Matlock Baths the vicinity of 
Byron's home; and to Haddon Hall, a glorious 
old ruin teeming with romance, which dates from 
the time of William the Conqueror. 

From Rowsley a beautiful drive brought us to 
Chatsworth Hall, the magnificent residence of the 
Duke of Devonshire, considered the finest home 
of any private individual in the world. The park 
comprises 2,000 acres, and the gardens and con- 
servatories are marvels of taste and beauty. The 
-picture-gallery and hall of sculpture contain a 
number of masterpieces, and the walls and ceilings 
are rich in frescoes. All that wealth and refined 
taste could procure are here combined to charm 
the sense. 

Manchester, the great manufacturing centre of 
Englandj is celebrated for its immense cotton 
mills, and its iron and brass foundries. From here 
we continued by rail through northern Wales to 



AROUND THE WORLD. 39 

visit its seaside resorts and picturesque coast 
scenery; stopping at Rhyl and Llandudno, the 
most fashionable bathing- places ; Conway, with 
its romantic old castle ; and Bettws-y-Coed, two 
miles from which is the Fairy Glen and Cascades. 
At Ffestiniog we took a miniature railroad with a 
track only 23 inches wide — the narrowest in the 
w^orld — which conveyed us for 20 miles through 
the immense slate quarries of that country ; and 
brought us to Portmadoc, where we resumed 
the broad guage and continued our journey along 
the coast, via Shrewsbury, to the southern shores 
of England. 

Brighton, 55 miles south of London, the 
fashionable watering place of England, has a 
population of 100,000. The favorite drive, five 
miles in extent, borders the beach, and affords a 
continuous view of fashionable equipages, and of 
the bathers beyond, sporting in the waves. 

Portsmouth, a fortified city, is the great naval 
arsenal of the United Kingdom, and a principal 
seaport of the English Channel. Its extensive 
storehouses contain every article required for the 
use of the navy, and in the harbor is stationed 
Nelson's flag-ship, the old Victory, on which the 
hero breathed his last, during the Battle of Tra- 
falgar. 

Newport, the capital of the Isle of Wight, is in 
a valley surrounded by gardens, groves and 
orchards. Carisbrooke Castle, one mile from 



40 A TOUR 

Newport, is an old historic ruin, and one full oi 
interest. Here Charles I. fled for safety, and was 
afterwards confined a prisoner by the Governor, 
who had guaranteed him protection. A window, 
from which the unfortunate king attempted his 
escape, is still shown, with the iron bars partly 
filed asunder; also the room in which his daugh- 
ter, the Princess Elizabeth, was found dead, her 
face on an open Bible at the passage, '' Come unto 
me all ye who are weary and heavy laden, and I 
will give ye rest." 

Cowes, on the north coast of the same island, 
has many lovely drives and fine residences. 
Among the latter is Osborne, the summer palace 
of the Queen, surrounded by a large park, about 
two miles distant from the town. 

Returning to Southampton, a seaport on the 
English Channel, we took steamer for Havre, and 
bade a lingering farewell to the shores of old 
England, 



CHAPTER V. 

HAVRE: ROUEN: PARIS, rrs ENVIRONS. 

Crossing the English Channel, we landed at 
Havre, a strongly fortified seaport town on the 
northern coast of France, with a population of 



AROUND THE WORLD. 41 

93,000, and next to Marseilles in commercial im- 
portance. From this point Richmond embarked, 
with troops furnished by Charles VIII., to meet 
Richard on Bosworth field. Here Bernadin de 
St. Pierre, author of Paul and Virginia, was born ; 
and the rocks near by were his favorite haunts. 

Rouen, on the banks of the Seine, is in the 
midst of a highly-cultivated country and pictur- 
esque scenery. The cathedral, whose outer walls 
are ornamented with many statues, has, among 
its monuments, one beneath which rests the heart 
of Richard Coeur de Lion. 

A donjon is shown in the Market Place, 
where Joan of Arc was confined after her capture 
by the French ; and in the Place de la Pucelle is 
a monument erected on the spot where the Maid 
was bu^nt at the stake, in 1431. 

Between Rouen and Paris the railroad follows 
the winding course of the river Seine, affording 
many varied and picturesque views. 

Paris, the gayest and most beautiful city of 
the world, is situated on level ground on both 
banks of the Seine, and is a place of 2,225,000 
inhabitants. It is the centre of fashion and 
luxury ; has many fine and interesting palaces 
and cathedrals, beautiful parks, and wide, clean 
streets and boulevards lined with rows of trees, 
and ornamented with costly statuary and elaborate 
fountains. 

The Garden of the Tuileries is laid out in 



42 A TOUR 

avenues and flower beds, and adorned with stat- 
uary in marble and bronze, the finest of these 
being the Laocoon and the Rape of Sibyl. 

The Place de la Concorde, the handsomest 
square in Paris, is embellished by two elaborate 
fountains and eight colossal statues, representing 
the principal cities of France, that of Strasburg 
being draped in mourning. The Obelisk of 
Luxor, which was presented to the French Gov- 
ernment by Mahomet Pasha of Egypt, now stands 
in the centre of the square where formerly stood 
the guillotine, on which were executed Louis 
XVL, Marie Antoinette, Madame Elizabeth, 
Robespierre, and, in one year and six months, 
2,800 people. 

The Champs Elysees, a grand avenue a mile 
and a half in length, bordered by trees and walks, 
and diversified by booths and cafes, is the fashion- 
able drive and promenade of Paris. At the end 
of this avenue is the Arc-de-Triomphe built by 
Napoleon L, in commemoration of the victories ol 
the French army under the Republic and the Eni- 
pire. It is one of the finest in the world, is 160 
feet in height, and was erected at a cost of 
$2,000,000. The bas-reliefs upon its sides repre- 
sent : ^^ The departure of troops to the Frontier in 
1792," ''The Taking of Alexandria," ''The 
Blessings of Peace," and " The Triumph of 
Napoleon." 

The Colonne Vendome, an imitation of Trajan's 



AROUND THE WORLD. 43 

column, towers 142 feet high, and is surmounted 
by a statue of Napoleon. The metal of which it is 
composed is the melting of 1,200 guns taken from 
the Russians and Austrians ; and the reliefs in 
bronze represent scenes in the campaign of 1805. 

The Colonne de Juillet, of bronze, 154 feet 
high, and surmounted by a figure representing the 
Genius of Liberty, stands where was once the Bas- 
tile, a state prison, destroyed by the Communists 
during the late Revolution, and was erected to the 
memory of those who fell in defence of public 
liberty in 1830. 

The statue of Marshal Ney occupies the spot 
where he was shot, condemned to death for again 
joining Napoleon's standard after his return from 
exile, and the equestrian statue of Joan of Arc is 
conspicuously situated opposite the Louvre. 

The Bois de Boulogne, said to be the finest 
park in the world, embraces 2,250 acres. The 
roads are beautifully graded, and bordered with 
trees. The paths diverge from the main avenues 
in most graceful curves, which, with the lakes, 
grottoes and cascades, unite in rendering it a per- 
fect harmony of nature and art. 

The Buttes Chaumont, a beautiful park in the 
suburbs of Paris, was the last work of Napoleon 
III., and is a miniature rocky wilderness, with 
lakes, cascades and stalactite grottoes. It occu- 
pies a high elevation overlooking Paris, and was 
the stronghold of the Communists in May 1871, 



44 A TOUR 

from which point they threw petroleum shells into 
the city. 

In Pere-la-Chaise cemetery, named after La 
Chaise, Jesuit confessor of Louis XIV., are the 
tombs of myriads of distinguished dead. Here 
lie buried Abelarde and Heloise, Marshal Ney, 
**the bravest of the brave," Lafayette, Demidoff, 
Racine, Lafontaine, Thiers. Rachel, Eugene 
Scribe, Rossini, Chopin and Cherubini, and many 
of the generals and savans of the time of Napo- 
leon I. 

The Pantheon, a magnificent building, mod- 
elled after the Pantheon at Rome, has a lofty 
dome 270 feet high, and serves as a place of sepul- 
ture to many of the great men of France; such 
names as Voltaire, Rousseau, Marshal Lannes, 
Montebello, Mirabeau and Marat, which history 
has rendered immortal for good or evil. 

The Catacombs of Paris, which were once im- 
mense quarries of stone, undermining one-tenth 
of the area of the city, were in 1786 converted 
into a depository for the dead ; when the bones of 
3,000,000 people were collected from all the 
cemeteries, and brought hither on funeral cars, 
followed by priests chanting the service for the 
dead. The principal entrance is through the 
Porte de TEnfer, or gate of hell, and ninety steps 
lead down to this gloomy subterranean city. On 
either side 6f the narrow passage ways which 
intersect this labyrinth, are massed bones and 



AROUND THE WORLD. 45 

skulls, arranged in various hideous designs; and 
here and there are placards, upon which are in- 
scribed quotations appropriate to the sepulchral 
surroundings. 

The Sewers of Paris are among the wonders of 
subterranean architecture, being only inferior to 
those of ancient Rome. The main sewer is trav- 
elled both by boat and tramway, which transport 
the visitor, a distance of several miles, from the 
Madeleine to the Chatelet Theatre. 

The Palace of the Tuileries, now in ruins, was 
burnt by the Communists, May 23, 1871. It was 
built in 1564 by Catherine de Medici, on the site 
of an old tile factory, from which it derived its 
name. Here, in 1572, its wicked founder gave a 
fete, four days previous to the massacre of St. Bar- 
tholomew, in presence of both Catholics and Pro- 
testants, and had her son, Charles IX. represented 
by tableau driving the Huguenots into hell. This 
was the prelude to the massacre of 25,000 innocent 
people. Here, in August 1792, the Swiss Guard 
were killed, and in the Place du Carrousel Louis 
XIV. gave, in 1672, that splendid tournament 
which was attended by guests from all parts of the 
civilized world. 

The Palace of the Louvre, which takes its 
name from Louvrie — a resort for wolves — is a 
magnificent gallery of art. It was commenced by 
Francis I. and added to by Napoleon I. and Na- 
poleon III., and embraces several acres of ground. 



46 A TOUR 

It was from the southern window that Charles IX. 
gave the signal for the massacre, and fired on the 
victims of St. Bartholomew. In the picture gal- 
lery are ''The Ascension" by Murillo, and ''The 
Madonna and Child " by Raphael, besides other 
celebrated paintings of the old masters. The 
sculpture gallery contains the famous Venus de 
Milo ; also statues of Minerva, Melpomene, Au- 
gustus Caesar and other celebrities of antiquity. 
In the Egyptian department are relics brought 
from Egypt by Champollion, the antiquarian, and 
by Napoleon Bonaparte — sphinxes, reliefs and 
statues rifled from the palaces and tombs of the 
Theban kings. 

The Palais Royal was erected by Cardinal 
Richelieu in 1630; and presented by him to 
Louis XIII. In 1793 it was confiscated by the 
Government, and at present its gardens — inclosed 
by numerous jewelry shops dazzling with the 
glitter of gems and gaslight — are open to the 
public. 

The Palace of the Luxembourg was built by 
Marie de Medici, and was bequeathed by her to 
the Duke of Orleans. It is now used for the sit- 
tings of the Senate ; and what was formerly the 
throne- room, elegantly frescoed and gilded, is now 
the Council Hall for its members. 

The Palace of Justice, which includes the 
Courts of Law, has within its inclosure the Con- 
ciergerie, used as a prison during the Reign of 



AROUND TPIE WORLD. 47 

Terror. Here most of the political prisoners of the 
Revolution of 1797 were confined, and the cells 
occupied by the unfortunate Louis XVI. and his 
family, also that of Robespierre remain un- 
changed. 

Notre Dame, one of the old landmarks of Paris, 
was built in 1160 by Alexander III., Pope of 
Rome, who at that time had taken refuge in 
France. Before its magnificent altar have trans- 
pired many of the notable events of history ; here 
Napoleon solemnized his marriage with Josephine, 
and here the First Consul assumed the crown of 
Empire. 

In the treasury of the Cathedral are kept the 
plate and jewels of the church; the rich robes of 
the ecclesiastics, and the embroidered coronation 
mantle of Napoleon ; a piece of the True Cross, 
and a fragment of the Crown of Thorns. At the 
top of one of the square towers hangs the famous 
Bourdon bell, which recalls to mind the poor 
hunchback of Victor Hugo's novel of Notre Dame. 
Tt weighs 32,000 pounds and requires the strength 
of eight men to ring it. 

The Church of St. Roche, belonging to the 
wealthiest parish of Paris, was commenced about 
1633 ; the corner-stone having been laid by Anne 
of Austria and Louis XIII. From the steps in 
front of this church Bonaparte levelled his cannon 
on the mob during the Directory. 

The Madeleine, built in 17.64, during the reign 



48 A TOUR 

of Louis XV., was a place of refuge, in 1871, of the 
Communists who were shot down without quarter 
within its walls, regardless of the shelter of its 
sanctuary. 

The Sainte Chapelle, erected in 1245, during 
the reign of St. Louis, is a fine specimen of Gothic 
architecture ; its stained glass windows illustrating 
scenes from the Old and New Testaments. In 
the wall is a small grated window, through which 
Louis XII., fearing a closer contact with his sub- 
jects, listened to the services of the church. 

The Hotel des Invalides, covering 31 acres, 
was built by Louis XIV. in 1670, for 5,000 pen- 
sioned soldiers. The gilded dome, which is 340 
feet from the ground, can be seen for miles oft"; 
and beneath it is a circular crypt 20 feet deep, 
with polished granite walls, and adorned with 
marble reliefs. The mosaic pavement at the bot- 
tom, represents a wreath of laurel, from the centre 
of which rises the massive porphyry sarcophagus 
which contains the ashes of the great Napoleon. 
Twelve statues surround the monolith, and record 
his principal victories ; not far oft" are Vauban 
and Turenne; while Jerome and Joseph Bona- 
parte, are near him — in death as in life. Over 
the door of the crypt are engraved the hero's last 
words: '' I desire that my ashes may rest on the 
banks of the Seine, in the midst of the French 
people whom I have loved so well." 

The Church of the '* InvaHdes," which over- 



AROUND THE WORLD. 49 

shadows the tomb of Napoleon, is adorned with 
battle-flags taken by him in Egypt. Every Sun- 
day, at 1 2 o'clock, a military Mass is performed to 
the beat of the drum, when the veterans, some of 
whom are blind and crippled and bent with age, 
march in to the sound of military music, escorted 
by the Veteran Guard. While they perform their 
devotions the organ renders the ''Vox Humana" 
— a wonderful imitation of a choir of human voices 
heard from a great distance; and altogether the 
service is very impressive and beautiful. 

The Grand Opera House on the Place de 
rOpera, is the finest building of the kind in the 
world, having cost the nation nearly $20,000,000, 
and was built in i860. The carriage-way leading 
to the Imperial box, the grand staircase, prome- 
nades and buffets, are excellent specimens of 
architectural skill, while the entire interior is gilded 
and frescoed with lavish extravagance. 

The Gobelin Tapestry Works, founded in 1450 
by Jean Gobelin, was for a long time a private 
establishment, but in 1662 passed into the hands 
of the Government. The carpets and hangings 
made here are unrivalled for their fineness and 
brilliancy of color, and are mostly copies of Le 
Brun's paintings. At one time they were destined 
chiefly for palaces, and as gifts to foreign poten- 
tates, but can now be purchased at fabulous 
prices. 

The Hotel de Cluny, built in the 15th century 

4 



50 A TOUR 

by the abbots of Cluny, is at present a museum 
containing a valuable collection of objects of art 
and antiquities of the Middle Ages. Among 
these may be seen specimens of Flemish tapestry, 
Roman sculpture and carved altars. 

The summer concerts on the Champs Elysees 
are both novel and interesting. Stage perform- 
ances are given in the open air, the audience being 
permitted to smoke and drink during the enter- 
tainment. 

The students' balls in the Latin quarter now 
take the place of the Jardin Mabille, and are no- 
torious for the license permitted its frequenters, 
the style of dancing witnessed there, being more 
free than elegant. 

The Palace of Versailes, i6 miles from Paris, 
was built by Louis XIV. about the year 1670. 
Wishing to build a palace which would eclipse 
any other in Europe, he employed the celebrated 
architect Levan to design the building, Le Notre 
to plan the grounds, and Le Brun to decorate the 
apartments. Sixty miles of country were pur- 
chased for this purpose, hills were levelled and 
valleys raised, and water brought from great dis- 
tances to supply the numerous fountains. Over 
$200,000,000 is said to have been expended, and 
that, with the extravagance of the Court, im- 
poverished France, and was the indirect cause 
of the Revolution of 1789. Approaching the 
palace on either side are colossal marble statues 



AROUND THE WORLD. Jt 

of warriors and statesmen ; and in the centre of 
the court is the bronze equestrian figure of Louis 
XIV. The grounds surrounding the palace are 
magnificent ; lakes, grottoes and statuary diversi- 
fying the landscape. Fifty-six fountains of elabo- 
rate design complete the beauty of the scene ; one 
of them, Neptune, having seventy je,ts, which 
throw water to the height of 75 feet, and which 
costs $2,000 each time its waters play. In this 
palace Louis XIV. died, Louis XV. was born, 
and escaped being assassinated by Damiens, Marie 
Antoinette was attacked by the mob, and from it 
Louis XVI. addressed the infuriated populace. 
After the fall of Napoleon I., it was occupied suc- 
cessively by Louis XVIII., Charles V., Louis 
Philippe, Napoleon III., and Thiers. Here Queen 
Victoria was entertained, in 1855, by Napoleon 
III. ; and here King William of Prussia was de- 
clared Emperor of Germany in 1871. The paint- 
ings, frescoes, and statuary of the palace are ex- 
ceedingly fine ; notably a marble statue repre- 
senting the last moments of Napoleon I., and 
paintings of his coronation before the altar of 
Notre Dame, and of the presentation of standards 
to his army by this great general. Within the 
limits of Versailles are the Grand Trianon built by 
Louis XIV. for Madame de Maintenon ; the Petit 
Trianon, built by Louis XV. for Madame du 
Barry ; and the Swiss cottage, in which the lovely 
but heedless Marie Antoinette sought relief from 



52 A TOUR 

the irksome trammels of the etiquette of the 
French Court. Among the state carriages and 
sleighs are those of many successive sovereigns, 
the most magnificent of these being the state 
carriage, built for the coronation of Charles X. at 
a cost of $200,000, last used by Napoleon III., and 
considered the finest in the world. 

The Palace of Fontainebleau is 40 miles from 
Paris, and dates from the reign of Louis VII. in the 
1 2th century. Here, the Great Condedied, and it 
was here the son of Louis XV. fell a victim to 
poison in 1765. Here, Queen Christina of Swe- 
den caused her secretary, Monaldeschi, to be 
assassinated ; and here Charles IV. of Spain was 
kept in captivity; as was also Pope Pius VII., 
retained by Napoleon Bonaparte in 181 2, for a 
space of eighteen months, for the purpose of in- 
ducing him to resign his temporal power. Here 
was pronounced the decree of divorce between 
Napoleon and the unhappy Josephine ; and, here 
also, where he signed his abdication, and took 
leave of the remnant of his old guard, who had 
followed him through all the vicissitudes of war 
until the moment of his departure for Elba. This 
was the subject of the celebrated painting: '' Les 
Adieux de Fontainebleau.'* 

In one of the apartments of the palace is still 
to be seen a table, upon which the deposed sover- 
eign signed his abdication, and which bears a deep 
gash from the pen-knife of the incensed hero. In 



AROUND THE WORLD. 53 

the midst of the grounds is a lovely lake, in the 
centre of which is an island containing a small 
pavilion, reached only by boat, where Napoleon 
was wont to retire with his generals to discuss 
military measures. 

St. Cloud Palace, six miles from Paris, on the 
Seine, is now in ruins, having been ' shelled in 
1870 by the French from Fort Valerian, in order 
to dislodge the Prussians who occupied it. It was 
built in 1658 by Louis XIV. and presented to the 
Duke of Orleans ; and was afterwards purchased 
by Louis XVL, for Marie Antoinette. Here Henry 
III. was assassinated ; and here again, Napoleon 
Bonaparte laid the foundation of his power ; and 
later, in 181 5, Bliicher held his headquarters. It 
was here that Charles X. signed the fatal ordin- 
ance which cost him his throne ; and here the 
capitulation of Paris was signed in 1871. The 
palace stands on an eminence overlooking Paris, 
and is surrounded by beautiful grounds, in which 
is a cascade noted for its size and beauty. 

Malmaison, formerly a hospital, but afterwards 
selected by Josephine as a place of residence after 
her divorce from Napoleon, and elegantly fitted up 
by him, is situated ten miles from Paris. Here 
the Emperor was in the habit of visiting his 
divorced wife ; seeking its retirement to plan some 
of his campaigns, and here he came to bid a last 
farewell to Josephine, ere he took his departure for 
Elba. In the adjoining church are fine monu- 



54 A TOUR 

ments over the remains of Josephine and Hor- 
tense. 

The Palace of St. Germain crowns the summit 
of a terraced elevation commanding a fine view of 
the valley of the Seine and the heights of Mount 
Valerian. It was here that Francis I. was mar- 
ried, and James II. of England passed the period 
of exile. 

Sevres, where is manufactured the most beau- 
tiful porcelain ware, was founded in 1737, and has 
been in the hands of the French Government for 
over 100 years. The process of manufacture is 
most interesting, and the show-rooms contain 
beautiful and valuable copies on porcelain of paint- 
ings from Raphael, Michael Angelo, and Titian. 

St. Denis, six miles from Paris, is chiefly 
interesting on account of the Abbey church which 
has been the burial-place of the kings of France, 
from Dagobert, 580, to Louis XVIII. During 
the first revolution, by decree of the Convention 
the tombs were rifled of their contents, and the 
remains of kings and queens thrown into one 
common ditch. In the royal vault are the remains 
of Marie Antoinette, Louis XVI, and Louis 
XVIII., and among the magnificent monuments 
are those of Henry II. and Catherine de Medici, 
Louis XII. and Anne of Brittany, F>ancis II., 
Henry HI. and the Duke de Berri. 

In the crypt is kept the sarcophagus in which 
Charlemagne was interred at Aix-la~Chapelle. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 55 



CHAPTER VI. 

BRUSSELS : BATTLE-FIELD OF WATERLOO : VILVORDE ! 
ANTWERP : ROTTERDAM : SCHEVENINGEN I THE 
HAGUE : AMSTERDAM : ZAANDAM : BREMEN : HAM- 
BURG. 

Brussels, the capital of Belgium, is on the river 
Senne, and has 171,000 inhabitants. The fortifi- 
cations of a century ago have all been removed, 
and on their site are beautiful boulevards and 
walks bordered with stately linden trees extending 
for five miles around the city. The handsomest 
square is that directly in front of the king's 
palace, containing several fine fountains. Among 
the statues seen are those of Geoffrey de Bouillon 
and Leopold I., and also that of the Mannikin — a 
fountain, remarkable for its peculiar and unique 
design. 

The Bois de Cambre and Forest of Soignies 
are the fashionable drives, which extend for miles 
in the suburbs of the city. 

Among its finest buildings are the old and new 
Houses of Parliament, the latter having cost 
$10,000,000. 

The Hotel de Ville, erected in 1400, is one of 
the largest and most remarkable edifices of the 



56 A TOUR 

Gothic style ; its pyramidal tower rising 364 
feet high. In one portion of the building are the 
Senate and Assembly rooms, adorned with por- 
traits of late kings and members, while in another 
are the keys of the city ; and here the drawing of 
the National Lottery takes place. The ball-room 
is elaborately carved and hung with some fine 
specimens of Gobelin tapestry ; it was here the 
Duke of Wellington attended the ball given by the 
Countess of Richmond the night previous to the 
battle of Waterloo. 

The old palace built in 1300, was formerly 
the residence of the Spanish and Austrian gov- 
ernors of the Netherlands, but is now a museum ; 
and contains a large collection of paintings and 
curiosities. 

The Wiertz Gallery of paintings is a most 
peculiar collection by this eccentric artist. In it 
are pictures representing Napoleon in hell; a 
woman who had been buried alive breaking from 
the cerements of the grave ; a scene in the infernal 
regions ; Quasimodo, the hunchback of Notre 
Dame ; and Life and Death, represented in the 
forms of two young girls; all of which are of the 
same repulsive character. 

Brussels was once famous for the manufacture 
of carpets, but they are now no longer made here. 
Lace IS an important article of manufacture and 
export, those varieties generally preferred being 
Point, Point Applique, Duchesse, and Chantilly. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 57 

In the factories are the partly- underground work- 
rooms, in which women weave the dainty webs of 
lace in the damp and semi-obscurity, where more 
than half their lives are spent. Owing to the ex- 
treme delicacy of their work, only a ray of light is 
allowed to rest upon the one spot on which 
their gaze is riveted. We saw old women and 
young girls, their eyes dim to all objects save that 
to which their sight was trained. 

The battle-field of Waterloo, twelve miles from 
Brussels, is of less extent than one would imagine 
from the importance of the contest, and from pre- 
conceived ideas, the line of battle covering an 
area of scarcely three miles. In '' Les Mis- 
erables," Victor Hugo has given a magnificent 
description of this celebrated battle. On the 
field we noted many points of historic interest — 
the ''Cross Roads," — Wellington's headquar- 
ters — '^La Belle Alliance," — those of Napo- 
leon — directly opposite each other, and only a mile 
apart; ''La Haye Sainte," the headquarters of the 
Hanoverians; and " Hougomont," with its brick 
walls, burnt crucifix, and well once filled with 
human skeletons. We also saw the place where 
the Scotch Grays charged, the spot where the 
heroic Highland piper sat, with both legs shot off', 
cheering on his countrymen with the sound of 
their beloved bagpipes, the locality where Ney 
fought so desperately, and the sunken road of 
Ohain, into which the charging troops of France, 



58 A TOUR 

inadvertently plunged, horse and man, to their 
destruction. 

Vilvorde, 6^ miles from Brussels, is particu- 
larly noted as being the home of Tyndale, the 
translator of the Bible, who suffered martyrdom 
here in the cause of religion. 

Antwerp, on the right bank of the Scheldt, is 
the chief port of Belgium, and has a population of 
163,000. It is one of the most strongly fortified 
cities in Europe, and before the 15 th century was 
almost without a rival among the commercial 
cities of the globe. The treaty of Westphalia, in 
1648, almost ruined her commerce, but Bonaparte 
made it his naval arsenal, and since that time it 
has somewhat recovered its former prestige. 
Rubens, Vandyke, Jordaens, and other great mas- 
ters, were natives of Antwerp, and the best of 
their productions are found here to-day. 

The Cathedral, a magnificent specimen of ec- 
clesiastical architecture, is of vast dimensions. In 
the tower, the steeple of which is 466 feet in 
height, are eighty-two chime-bells, which are 
noted for their sweetness and purity of tone. The 
interior of the cathedral corresponds in grandeur 
with the exterior, being elaborate in carvings of 
brass, marble and wood. Here is Rubens' 
masterpiece, the Descent from the Cross ; also his 
Resurrection, Elevation to the Cross, and Assump- 
tion of the Virgin. 

The Church of St. Jacques is the handsomest 



AROUND THE WORLD. 59 

in the city, and contains the vaults of most of the 
leading families of Antwerp. Among these is 
the tomb of Rubens, who lies buried behind the 
high altar. 

In St. Paul's Church is Rubens' painting of the 
Scourging of Christ. The grounds belonging to 
the church contain a representation of Mount 
Calvary. At the summit of this rocky elevation 
— 100 feet high — is an image of Christ on the 
Cross, at the base of which is a model of the Holy 
Sepulchre ; and below this is represented the in- 
fernal regions filled with people in torment, while 
life-size figures of apostles, saints, and angels, are 
grouped, standing and hovering about the scene. 

The Museum, which has a splendid collection 
of paintings, comprises the choicest specimens of 
the Flemish school. Here is Vandyke's master- 
piece, the Crucifixion, Quentin Matsys' Descent 
from the Cross, Van Lerins' Lady Godiva, and 
Rubens' Crucifixion of Christ between the two 
Thieves. Near one of the churches is an iron 
canopy of marvellous design, the work of Quentin 
Matsys, the blacksmith artist of Antwerp. He 
fell in love with the daughter of a celebrated 
painter, but the obdurate father refused consent to 
his suit, resolved that his daughter should wed 
only with one of his own calling. Abandoning 
the anvil, Quentin Matsys assumed the brush, 
and eventually surpassing her father in his own 
art, won the daughter's hand. 



6o A I^OIJR 

Rotterdam, the second city in Holland in 
point of population and commerce, has 153,000 
inhabitants, a magnificent harbor, superb docks, 
and many canals, these latter are as numerous as 
the streets, and upon them is done the principal 
traffic, communication being maintained by draw- 
bridges and ferry-boats. The houses are of red 
brick, tall and quaint, thoroughly Dutch in aspect, 
one general feature being an arrangement of two 
mirrors placed at an angle outside the windows, 
giving the inmates views of all that is passing in 
the streets. 

Rotterdam was the birthplace of Erasmus, the 
celebrated Dutch scholar, and his statue in bronze 
adorns the market-place, while in the park stands 
the marble statue of Holland's favorite poet, Tol- 
lens. 

Scheveningen, a fashionable watering place, is 
three miles from the Hague, environed by fine 
residences and a wooded country; it is much fre- 
quented by the Dutch for its fine beach and surf 
bathing. From here Charles H. embarked for 
England after the downfall of Richard Cromwell. 

The Hague, originally the hunting-seat of the 
Counts of Holland, and so called from the hedge 
which surrounded their lodge, is indebted to Louis 
Napoleon for conferring upon it the privileges of a 
city, and at present ranks as the political capital of 
the kingdom. The streets are wide and lined 
with trees; the principal buildings being the King's 



AROUND THE WORLD. 6l 

Palace, the Queen's Cottage, and the Museum, 
which contains Rembrandt's celebrated painting 
of an Anatomical Examination, and Paul Potter's 
Bull, the latter valued at $100,000. 

Amsterdam, *'the dike or dam Amstel," is buih 
on piles, and intersected by canals which are 
spanned by 300 bridges dividing the city into 
ninety islands. Diamond cutting has here attained 
its great perfection, and gives employment to 
hundreds of men and women; the polishing is 
done with diamond dust on a wheel which revolves 
at the rate of 2,000 revolutions a minute, and the 
cutting is done by hand with a Hke stone ; hence 
the origin of the expression ** diamond cut dia- 
mond." 

The palace is occupied by the king for only 
one month of the year. The ball-room, 125 feet 
in length, is finished in Italian marble, and is 
considered one of the finest in Europe. The Jews' 
quarter in Amsterdam is occupied by 60,000 of 
that race ; and the characteristic type is marked 
on every face. 

Zaandam, on an arm of the Zuyder Zee, six 
miles from Amsterdam, has a population of 1 3,000. 
Its inhabitants are primitive both in customs and 
dress ; the streets are narrow^ paved with brick, 
and without sidewalks ; the houses are very small, 
quaint and painted green, as a rule, and the whole 
town is scrupulously clean : a horse or other beast 
of burden being rarely seen. Zaandam is noted 



62 A TOUR 

for its 400 windmills, and for its being the scene 
of the self-exile of Peter the Great, who resorted 
thither, disguised as a common workman, to learn 
the art of ship-building; the cottage in which he 
lived, containing his work-bench, bed and chairs, 
is still extant; and a tablet over the mantel, placed 
there by the Emperor Alexander, bears the in- 
scription : *' Nothing too small for a great man." 

Bremen, built on both sides of the Weser, has 
a population of 113,000. It was formerly an in- 
dependent and free city, but was added to Prussia 
in 1867, and is now garrisoned by troops of the 
German Empire. Its harbor is good, and ship- 
ping extensive ; its snuff manufactories are the 
largest in the world. 

Hamburg, a free, imperial city of Germany, is 
on the Elbe, 75 miles from its mouth; popula- 
tion, 290,000. It is one of the most important 
commercial cities of the w^orld, and its lines of 
steamers run regularly to China, Japan, the West 
Indies and America. It has some fine public 
buildings and handsome streets, but nothing of 
special interest to detain the traveller. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 63 



CHAPTER VII. 

COPENHAGEN : ELSINORE : JONKOPING : GOTTENBURG : 
THE GOTHA CANAL : THE FALLS OF JROLHATTA I 
CHRISTIANIA : MUSTAD : TRONDHJEM : STOCKHOLM : 
UPSALA : 

Copenhagen, the capital of Denmark, is on the 
east coast of the Island of Zeeland, and has 
236,000 inhabitants. The city is enclosed by a 
line of fortifications — now used as a promenade 
— mounting 150 cannon; and the harbor is pro- 
tected by the Castle of Frederickshavn, which is 
considered impregnable. 

Rosenborg Palace was built in 1604; it ceased 
long ago to be a royal residence, and contains at 
present a collection, belonging to Danish kings, 
made at the death of Christian IV., in 1648. 
Several rooms are devoted to relics of each of the 
kings — comprising the furniture, arms, jewels and 
garments of the different eras, and the banqueting 
hall, hung in tapestry, contains the coronation 
chairs made of the ivory of the narwhal, con- 
sidered in former days worth its weight in silver. 

Thorwaldsen's Museum, built in 1848, for 
the exclusive purpose of containing the works of 
this famous sculptor, is of the Grecian sepulchral 



64 A TOUR 

Style of architecture, surmounted by a bronze 
figure of Victory in a chariot, driving four fiery 
horses. The whole number of Thorwaldsen's 
works in this museum are 300 ; among them are 
Jason and the Golden Fleece, which first gave the 
sculptor his renown ; an equestrian figure of 
Prince Joseph Poniatowski, Pope Pius VII., the 
Graces, Night aud Morning, the Ages of Love, 
and the bust of Martin Luther ; this latter, his 
last work, was left unfinished. In the centre of the 
court lie the remains of Thorwaldsen, whose name 
and genius command the highest love and respect. 
The tomb is a simple, ivy-covered, granite slab, 
his greatest monument being his works, which 
surround him. 

Christiansborg Palace contains the royal pic- 
ture gallery, with fine paintings by Danish artists. 
Among them are Christian II. in Prison, and 
Samson at the Mill, by Block ; A Fisherman's 
Home, and Rent-day, by Dalsgand. In the ban- 
queting room is Thorwaldsen's famous frieze of 
Alexander's entrance into Babylon. 

The Cathedral of Notre Dame is adorned exclu- 
sively with the works of Thorwaldsen, whose re- 
mains were followed here by the royal family, and 
all the high officials of the Government. These 
works comprise twelve colossal marble statues of 
the Apostles, a Figure of Christ, and, the gem 
of all, the kneeling figure of an Angel holding a 
shell, which forms the baptismal font. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 65 

Trinity Church, with its famous round tower, 
was erected by Christian IV. for an observatory. 
The tower is ascended within by means of a spiral 
incHned-plane, up which the Empress Catherine, 
in 1 7 16, drove four horses, Peter the Great pre- 
ceding her on horseback. 

Elsinore, 40 miles north of Copenhagen, is 
situated on the Sound, only a mile distant from 
the Swedish coast. Here is the Castle of Kron- 
borg, a fortress commanding the Sound, erected 
in 1 574 for the purpose of collecting dues enforced 
on all vessels going to or coming from the Baltic. 
The place is interesting from its association with 
Shakespeare's tragedy of Hamlet, the battlements 
of the square tower of this castle being the scene 
where the ghost of Hamlet's father '^ was doomed 
for a certain term to walk the night." On a ter- 
race to the north of the town, in a grove of trees, 
is a pile of stones shown as Hamlet's grave, and 
close by is Ophelia's brook. 

Many of Shakespeare's dramas, modified and 
embellished by fiction, are founded on fact. 
Hamlet was really a native of Jutland, a section of 
Denmark, where his father was a famous pirate- 
chief, and associate governor with his brother of 
the northern portion of the country. Hamlet's 
father had married the daughter of the Danish 
king, and was subsequently murdered by his own 
brother, who married his widow, and succeeded to 
the government of the whole of Jutland. Hamlet, 

5 



66 A TOUR 

who was a pagan, deeming it his first duty to 
avenge his father, feigned madness in order to en- 
compass his ends, and contriving to slay his uncle 
became Governor of Jutland, and was eventually 
killed in battle. The name Flamlet, pronounced 
by the Danes Amiet, signifies madman. 

Jonkoping, on the southern extremity of Lake 
Wetter, is an old Swedish town, which was set 
on fire in 1612 by Gustavus Adolphus, to prevent 
it from falling into the hands of the enemy. It 
was here that, in 1809, the treaty of peace between 
Sweden and Denmark was signed. This town is 
best known as the place of manufacture of the 
famous Swedish matches, made without sulphur 
or phosphorus, and since imitated in other coun- 
tries. 

Gottenburg, the first commercial, and second 
largest city in Sweden, has a population of 75,000. 
It is situated on the Gotha river, and has a fine 
harbor, but is by no means an attractive city. 
The military governor resides here, and in the 
building occupied by him Charles XL, of the 
Palatinate line, died in 1660. 

The Gotha Canal is the general name given to 
the entire water highway between Gottenburg 
and Stockholm — each artificial connection having 
Its individual name — which joins the waters of the 
North Sea to those of the Baltic. The total 
length of the entire route is 260 miles, while the 
artificial portions are 57 miles in length, and in- 



AROUND THE WORLD. 6/ 

elude 53 locks. The work on the canal was be- 
gun in the 1 6th century, and was in course of con- 
struction during the reigns of successive monarchs. 
Travelling through this route one sees most won- 
derful specimens of engineering, and while the 
steamer ascends, through numerous locks, ap- 
parently a succession of gigantic steps, one has an 
opportunity to explore the surrounding country, 
and to see some of the grandest scenery and 
finest waterfalls in Sweaen. 

The Falls of Trolhatta, at the outlet of Lake 
Wener, seven in number, io8 feet in height, and 
covering a distance of 480 feet, are sixty miles 
from Gottenburg. The view obtained of the 
Rapids, and of the whole series of falls, from a 
rocky eminence overhanging the river, is one of 
extreme beauty. The locks on the Trolhatta 
canal are 19 in number, the oldest of which was 
constructed in the reign of Charles XII. by the 
crreat engfineer and celebrated founder of the re- 
ligious sect, Swedenborg. 

Christiania, the capital of Norway, with a pop- 
ulation of 100,000, was founded by Christian IV. 
in 1624. The city is beautifully situated on a 
fiord, an inlet of the sea, gemmed with a num- 
ber of small islands, and closed in by a range of 
hills thickly wooded with Norwegian pine. Al- 
though Nature has done so much to beautify it, 
the city is most commonplace and unattractive. 
The University museum contains a fair collection 



68 A TOUR 

of paintings, the finest of which is Tiedeman's 
'* Haugiauer," or, preaching in a cottage, much 
admired in the Paris Exposition of 1855. Here, 
also, is the Viking ship, found buried near the 
coast, supposed to be a war vessel a thousand 
years old, and containing the bones of human 
beings and horses. 

The Castle of Aggershuus, on an eminence 
commanding the harbor, was built during the 
14th century. It contains at present the regalia 
and crown jewels ; and is noted as having been 
the place of confinement of the famous Hoiland, 
the combined Robin Hood and Jack Sheppard of 
Norway. This man was distinguished for his 
generosity and kindness towards his associates, 
and his devotion to the fair sex, while his robberies 
were entirely confined to the rich ; bolts and 
bars were of no avail against his strength and 
ingenuity. 

The Parliament House, or Diet, and the City 
Palace, are among the few prominent buildings of 
the city. 

Oscar's Hall, a summer residence of the King, 
five miles out of town, is a showy building well 
located on a neck of land, and commanding beau- 
tiful views of water and landscape. 

Leaving Christiania by rail, we skirted a num- 
ber of fiords, cascades and rapids, the mountain 
views being among the finest in Norway; then 
forty miles by boat on the Randsfiord, the most 



AROUND THE WORLD. 69 

beautiful of Norwegian lakes, and again by dili- 
gence to Mustad. 

Mustad, on the summit of the mountain, con- 
sists of a few insignificant houses, and serves as a 
way station for travellers visiting the remote parts 
of Norway. The inn is primitive in its appear- 
ance and domestic arrangement. , Upon the 
register were only two names of English-speaking 
people inscribed within ten years ; and on a table 
an old wooden-bound family Bible of mine host 
bore the date 1580. 

After spending the night in this mountain re- 
treat, we continued our journey to Lake Mjosen, 
which is over fifty miles long, and two thousand 
feet deep. Here Ave crossed over to Hamor, 
prettily situated on the lake, and a station on the 
line of railway to Trondhjem. 

Trondhjem, on a fiord bearing the same name, 
at the terminus of the railroad, has 23,000 inhabi- 
tants, is the largest of the northern towns of 
Europe, and has the same latitude as that of 
southern Iceland. It was founded by Olaf Tryg- 
gvesson in 994, was formerly the capital of Nor- 
way, and here the kings of Norway and Sweden 
are still crowned. The city has suffeied much 
from plague and conflagration. The streets are 
wide, well paved and clean, but the houses, built 
of stone or brick, are low and insignificant. The 
cathedral, where the kings are crowned, is of 
Norman architecture, and was erected in the i ith 



^o 



A TOUR 



century. On its high altar is a rehquary whicli 
once contained the remains of St. Olaf, a former 
king, who destroyed the native temples, and es- 
tablished the Catholic religion with fire and 
sword. A well of water still to be seen in the 
church is said to have sprung from the spot where 
he was buried ; and the fact of his remains being 
found in a perfect state of preservation was looked 
upon as a miracle, and they were placed in a silver 
reliquary studded with precious stones. His 
shrine became a favorite place of pilgrimage for 
the devout from all parts of Europe, until 1541, 
when the church was plundered by the Lutherans, 
and the remains carried off by the Danes. 

The Castle of Munkholm, on an island oppo- 
site the city, was the place of imprisonment of 
Count Greffenfeld, the Grand Chancellor of Chris- 
tian IV. of Denmark; and the stone floor of tlie 
cell is worn by his constant pacing to and fro 
during his twenty years' incarceration. The sad 
story of Count Greffenfeld gave Victor Hugo the 
foundation for his novel Hans dTsland. 

At Hammerfest,the most northern city in the 
world, the midnight sun is visible in July, its re- 
flected light extending some distance southward, 
so clearly that until midnight one can read without 
difficulty. 

The people of Norway are of stunted growth, 
of pinched visage, and of a fair type, the result 
of the excessive rigor of the climate. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 7 1 

The peasant men wear knee-breeches, red 
shirts, sugar-loaf hats and fur-hned coats; while 
the costumes of the women are even more quaint 
and gaudy. Their habits are plain and unassum- 
ing, and their honesty and politeness proverbial. 
The houses in the country are roofed with earth, 
and entered from the second story; light — owing 
to the extreme cold — being admitted only through 
the door. The cariole, the summer mode of 
conveyance, is a peculiarly constructed vehicle; 
admitting but one person within its narrow limits, 
who must needs drive in an uncomfortably reclin- 
ing position, while an attendant clings, as best he 
may, to the rear. 

Stockholm, the capital of Sweden, with a popu- 
lation of 174,000, is built upon nine islands in 
Lake Malar and the Baltic sea, and, from its loca- 
tion in the midst of the waters, is styled the 
Venice of the North. Its name is derived from 
Stock(wood) and Holm(island). The city contains 
many squares and small parks in which are 
monuments in bronze of Charles XII. and Charles 
XIII. , and an equestrian statue of Adolphus III. 
There is also a fine bronze group of two combat- 
ants, bound together by a leathern band about the 
waist, while the struggle between them with 
knives is thrilling and life-like, and symbolizes 
the national form of duel. 

The Royal Palace, an immense building of 
granite and brick, commands a fine position on 



72 A TOUR 

the highest point of the centre island. The ex- 
terior is unprepossessing, but within its walls are 
516 rooms and 32 kitchens. The apartments of 
the king, queen and queen dowager are hand- 
somely appointed, and filled with works of art ; 
the great gallery, the banqueting hall and the 
throne room are spacious, and in the latter is the 
silver throne, a present to Queen Christina from 
Magnus Gabriel de la Gardie. 

The Museum has a large collection of statuary, 
antique arms and armor; relics and antiquities of 
a succession of kings, and paintings both ancient 
and modern. Among these are the Victor's Re- 
turn, by Saloman ; the Religious Fanatic, by 
Tiedeman; After the Duel; and a portrait of King 
Eric IV. 

The Cathedral, where the sovereigns are first 
crowned — for, in concession to the national pride 
of the two kingdoms, now united under one ruler, 
the ceremony of coronation is repeated in Trondh- 
jem — contains an altar-piece finely carved in 
ebony. Here are preserved the spurs and helmet 
of St. Olaf of Norway, taken by Eric IV. from his 
tomb in the Cathedral of Trondhjem. 

The Riddarsholm church is now used as a 
mausoleum for the royal family, and a receptacle 
for trophies of the battlefields of the various 
epochs of the history of Norway. 

The Royal Library comprises 70,000 volumes, 
and occupies an entire building. In it are auto- 



AROUND THE WORLD. ^3 

graph letters of Richelieu, Voltaire, Alexander I. 
and Napoleon; a Bible dating 1521 with marginal 
notes by Martin Luther ; and a curious volume 
called the Devil's Bible ; this measures several feet 
in length, is bound in wood, and is written on the 
skins of 300 asses. 

The Zoological Museum has the finest botani- 
cal, mineralogical and geological collection in the 
world ; and was founded by Linnaeus and other 
noted Swedish scientists. Among other interest- 
ing objects to be seen, is the largest specimen of 
an elephant's skeleton, and here also is a meteoric 
stone weighing 250 tons, which fell in the north of 
Sweden. 

The Deer Park, with its lovely drives, villas, 
and cafes is a favorite afternoon resort. In its 
midst is the Palace of Rosendal, the former resi- 
dence of Charles XIV.- — better known as Berna- 
dotte, one of Napoleon's renowned marshals. 

Upsala, fifty miles from Stockholm, is one 
of the most attractive of the old-fashioned cities 
of Europe, and in its cathedral are buried Gus- 
tavus Vasa and Linnaeus. Among the manu- 
scripts in the library is a copy of the four Evan- 
gelists, written in letters of silver on parchment of 
the 5th century. 



74 A TOUR 



CHAPTER VIII. 



ABO : HELSINGFORS : ST. PETERSBURG ! PETERHOF : 

MOSCOW: sebastopol: Warsaw; 



The Russian Empire covers over one-half the 
area of the European continent, while its Asiatic 
possessions are three times the extent of those in 
Europe. The southern portion of Russia is for 
the most part a level plain, green in spring, 
parched in summer, and shrouded in snow in 
winter. The central section is, to a large extent, 
covered with timber, and is decidedly the most 
productive, while the northern part is beyond the 
limit of vegetation, and buried in snow and ice 
throughout the year. The natural wealth of 
Russia is enormous, especially in mineral produc- 
tions, her mines embracing nearly every variety. 
Gold and silver mines are productive, and those 
of lapis lazuli, malachite, and jasper are the rich- 
est in the world. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 75 

The area of the Russian Empire embraces 
8,352,940 square, miles, and contains 90,000,000 
people, of which number 

55,000,000 profess the Russo-Greek rehgion. 
1,000,000 are Dissenters. 
3,000,000 Roman CathoHcs. 
2,500,000 Protestants. 
2,000,000 Jews. 
250,000 Idolaters. 
50,000 Armenians. 

The Empire is divided into 96 governments or 
territories, viz. : 

50 in Russia, having 70,000,000 inhabitants. 
12 in the Caucasus, 5,000,000 
10 in Poland, '' 6,000,000 

8 in Finland, '' 2,000,000 

8 in Siberia, '^ 4,000,000 

8 in Central Asia 3,000,000 



96 90,000,000 

The Russian navy comprises 275 vessels, and 
the army, on a peace footing, 800,000 men. 

The religion of Russia exacts observance of 
its forms from the highest official to the lowest 
serf The Emperor is the head of the Greek 
Church, which predominates, and all army and 
government officials are required to embrace 
this form of worship. Great wealth is concen- 



^6 A TOtlR 

trated in the Church, and images being forbidden 
pictures are substituted set in gold, and studded 
with precious stones of such great value that a 
guard is kept constantly on watch to protect 
them. 

The lower classes are poor, ignorant and 
superstitious; and whether in church or on the 
street, are continually praying, making the sign of 
the cross, and prostrating themselves on the 
ground before one or other of the innumerable 
shrines to be found everywhere. 

The drosky, the summer conveyance, is usually 
drawn by a single horse, but frequently one 
sees three driven abreast. The costume of the 
drivers is somewhat similar to a woman's garb — 
a full skirt, gathered in to the waist by a broad 
sash, ajid reaching to the ankle, allowing the 
heavy boots to be seen below it, and a tall, oddly- 
shaped hat completes this singular and not un- 
picturesque costume. 

Abo, the former capital of Finland, is on an 
inlet three miles from the gulf, and has 23,000 
inhabitants. This is the first point reached by 
steamer on crossing the Baltic from Stockholm. 
The cathedral, the first Christian temple in the 
Northern land, contains the novel and hideous 
spectacle of open coffins, displaying the embalmed 
corpses within. 

Helsingfors, the present capital of Finland, 
with 34,000 inhabitants, has a strongly-fortified 



AROUND THE WORLD. J^ 

harbor, protected by the fortress of Sveaborg, 
called the Gibraltar of the North, which in 1855 
was unsuccessfully attacked by the combined 
fleets of France and Great Britain. The Greek 
church, with a large gilt dome, surrounded by 
thirteen smaller ones, is conspicuous for some 
distance. 

St. Petersburg, the Capital of Russia, at the 
mouth of the Neva, was founded by Peter the 
Great in 1703, and contains 668,000 inhabitants. 
It is built on several islands in the river marshes. 
Fifty thousand peasants were employed for years 
driving piles for a foundation, the Czar himself 
superintending the operations, and all convey- 
ances approaching the city by land or sea were 
required to bring a certain number of stones. 
The river Neva, which flows throughout the city, 
is crossed by several bridges, some of which are 
built of boats. The streets are very wide and 
clean, and are paved with small stones ; the 
houses are of brick, covered with plaster, and 
painted yellow^, and the roofs red or green. 

The finest monuments which adorn the city are 
those of an equestrian statue of Peter the Great; 
Catherine II. surrounded by her favorites; Nicho- 
las I. on horseback, with bronze bas-reliefs at the 
base, and that erected to Alexander I — a highly- 
polished granite shaft, surmounted by the figure 
of an angel, the whole 150 feet in height. The 
shaft was cut from the quarries of Finland, and is 



78 A TOUR 

said to be the largest monolith in the world. Two 
triumphal arches have been erected in commemo- 
ration of Russia's victorious arms — the Moscow 
Gate, raised in honor of the army of 1826 — 1831, 
is on the old road to Moscow ; and the Narva 
Gate, opposite the palace, surmounted by an 
image of Victory in a triumphal car drawn by six 
horses, commemorates the return of the Russian 
troops in 181 5. 

The cottage of Peter the Great, the first house 
built in the city, was occupied by the Emperor 
while superintending the building of St. Peters- 
burg. It is protected from destruction by an 
outer casing, and contains three rooms, one of 
which is now used as a shrine where devotees 
come to pay their devotions. 

In the Arsenal are large collections of arms and 
standards captured from nearly every nation in 
the world, comprising the earliest war implements 
from guns made of rope, leather and wood, down 
to the largest and most lately improved cannon. 
Here are also displayed the uniforms and trap- 
pings of Peter the Great, Catherine II. and Alex- 
ander I. The cannon foundry adjoining the 
arsenal well repays a visit ; for here are to be 
seen hundreds of the largest cannons cast. 

St. Isaac's Cathedral, whose foundation alone, 
owing to the marshy nature of the soil, cost over 
a million dollars, is of vast dimensions and of the 
most costly material. The centre dome, sur- 



AROUND THE WORLD. 79 

rounded by four smaller ones, overlaid with gold, 
and ornamented with colossal bronze figures, is 
supported by eighty pillars of polished porphyry 
sixty feet in height, resting on pavement of mar- 
ble and granite. The interior is gorgeous beyond 
conception ; steps of porphyry, floors of variegated 
marble, pillars of lapis lazuli, malachite and jasper, 
walls and altars adorned with mosaics and paint- 
ings of saints, emperors and warriors, set in gold 
and precious stones. The priests dress in flowing 
robes, wear their hair and beards long, and chant 
the service loudly and with much ostentation; 
while the worshippers prostrate themselves at full 
length on the marble floor, or move about, kissing 
repeatedly the pictures of their saints. 

The Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Paul, sit- 
uated inside the citadel, has by far the most gaudy 
interior of any church in the city, being a mass of 
gilt and glitter from floor to dome. Here are in- 
terred Peter the Great, and all the succeeding 
sovereigns of Russia down to the present time, 
with the exception of Peter II., who was buried in 
Moscow. The tombs are uniformly of plain, white 
marble, three feet in elevation, the surface of the 
slab bearing only the Russian eagle in gold, and 
an inscription on the end giving, according to the 
custom of the country, the height and breadth of 
the occupant at birth. The tomb of the late 
Alexander II. is guarded by day and night, and a 
light kept continually burning above it. 



8o A TOUR 

The Cathedral of St. Petersburg, dedicated to 
Our Lady of Kazan, is on the Nevskoi Prospekt, 
and was built after the model of St. Peter's at Rome. 
In front of the cathedral are the statues of Prince 
de Smolenskoi and Barclay de Tolly, and within is 
the painting representing Our Lady of Kazan, set 
with jewels of fabulous value, and a number of 
flags and keys of walled cities captured in battle. 

The Monastery of St. Alexander Nevskoi, 
built by Peter the Great for the remains of the 
Grand Duke Alexander, contains his tomb, which 
is of solid silver surmounted by angels. The 
bones of this saint, after their removal to their new 
place of sepulture returned again to the Volga, 
until Peter threatened the monks with punishment 
if they did not prevent the saint from continuing 
his midnight rambles. At this church may be 
heard the finest music in the city, chanted by 40 
monks. 

A shrine now marks the spot where the late 
Emperor Alexander was killed ; and preparations 
are being made to erect a church on the same site 
in commemoration of that event. 

The Winter Palace, though of great propor- 
tions, is of an unprepossessing exterior, being of 
brick with an outer coating of plaster painted yel- 
low, and surrounded by neither trees nor gardens. 
It was formerly the winter residence of the Em- 
peror and his court, accommodating 6,000 persons 
constituting his household. At present its finest 



AROUND THE WORLD. 8 1 

apartments are closed, in accordance with a Rus- 
sian custom commemorative of the decease of a 
former occupant. The crown jewels, kept here, 
are among the most magnificent in all Europe ; 
one — the Orloff diamond, next to the largest in 
the world — weighing 194^ carats; this gem was 
stolen from the eye-socket of an idol in the Tem- 
ple of Seringham, India, was afterwards bought by 
Count OrlofT, and presented by him to Cath- 
erine II. 

The Hermitage connected with the Winter 
Palace was built in 1765 by Catherine II., for the 
purpose of retirement from the cares of affairs of 
state. Its halls and marble stairway are of vast 
proportions, supported by pillars of Finland gran- 
ite. In the picture gallery are paintings of cele- 
brated artists; the Last Days of Pompeii, by 
Brulow, and the Brazen Serpent, by Bruni, being 
fine specimens of Russian art. The gallery of 
Peter the Great contains that sovereign's work- 
ing tools, and his iron cane weighing 10 pounds, 
besides other articles used by him, while through- 
out the galleries, in extravagant profusion are 
tables and mantels of malachite, jasper and lapis 
lazuli. 

The Taurida Palace, now in disuse and going 
fast to decay, was the scene of the gorgeous en- 
tertainment given by Count Potemkin to his 
royal mistress Catherine II., a description of which 
exceeds in splendor the most extravagant con- 

6 



82 A TOUR 

ceptions in the Arabian Nights. The ball-room 
on this occasion was dazzling in the brilliancy of 
20,000 lights, and in the midst of the magnificent 
chandeliers were stationed, in mid-air, the musi- 
cians who contributed melodious strains to this 
scene of enchantment. 

The Palace of Peterhof, 12 miles from the 
city, has been occupied by successive sovereigns 
since the reign of Peter the Great, "with the ex- 
ception of the present emperor, Alexander III., 
who prefers to occupy a smaller palace near by. 
The grounds surrounding Peterhof are extensive 
and handsome, and rich in gilded statues and 
fountains ; of these the largest is one called Sam- 
son, which throws a jet 80 feet high, while envi- 
roning this are smaller fountains, and cataracts 
extending a distance of 500 yards. The interior 
of the palace is filled with innumerable objects of 
virtu — tapestries, and tazzas of marble, porcelain, 
and malachite. One room contains 386 portraits, 
representing a peasant girl of each Russian 
province, an interesting and beautiful collection. 
At Montplaisir, a small palace in these demesnes, 
is the bed which was formerly occupied by Peter 
the Great, and in which he died ; and in the Her- 
mitage, also attached to the palace, is a curious 
mechanical arrangement, by means of which a 
dinner-table can be removed, through a trap, 
after each course, and returned with its appoint- 
ments renewed. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 83 

Moscow, on the banks of the Moskva river, 
was founded in 1147, and contains 600,000 in- 
habitants. It was formerly the capital of the 
entire Russian empire, and is consequently more 
cosmopolitan than other cities of Russia. The 
streets are long, and, as a rule, wide, except in 
the older portions of the city, where they are nar- 
row, and more available to pedestrians. The 
houses are fancifully ornamented, and painted in a 
variety of bright colors. The churches and public 
buildings are also of many hues, and with their 
numerous gold and silver domes and spires spark- 
ling in the sunlight, offer a scene both quaint and 
dazzling. The men wear small caps, long coats 
and high top-boots, and the women are partial to 
gay colors. The horses, which are mostly black, 
and of Arabian and Russian breed, are models of 
equine beauty, and travel with the rapidity of 
the wind. 

The Kremlin, or citadel, is in the heart of the 
city, and the wall in which it is inclosed measures 
two miles in circumference. It is entered by five 
gates, the most important of these being the Re- 
deemer's Gate, over which hangs a picture of the 
Saviour, an object of great reverence to every 
Russian, from the Emperor to the lowest peasant, 
none of whom would presume to pass under it 
without removing his hat. Almost to this very 
gate the victorious Tartars advanced, time and 
again, but no further. The French tried to re- 



84 A TOUR 

move the picture, but every ladder with which 
they attempted to scale the gate broke and fell 
with the bold invaders. They next attempted to 
demolish it with ball, but the cannon burst, and 
they finally set fire to the walls, but the flames 
miraculously recoiled before the sacred emblem. 
The Kremlin is crowded with palaces, churches, 
monasteries, arsenals and museums, in which the 
Tartar style of architecture predominates. This 
is the only part of Moscow which escaped the con- 
flagration of 1 812, when the Russians set fire to 
their capital to prevent its falling into the hands 
of Napoleon. At the St. Nicholas Gate, where 
the French powder-train exploded, is now a 
shrine where each Czar, before entering the city, 
must first ofier his devotions. 

The Emperor's Palace in the Kremlin is built 
on the site of an ancient Tartar palace, and has a 
magnificent interior. The Red Staircase, which is 
only used by the Emperor and Empress after 
their coronation in the cathedral, but which Napo- 
leon and his marshals ascended after the fall of 
Moscow, leads to the banqueting room, where 
the newly-crowned Emperor sits enthroned, wear- 
ing for the first time all the imperial insignia. In 
St. Andrew's Hall, on a raised dais, stands the 
magnificent throne of the present empire ; and in 
the hall of the Order of St. George the walls are 
adorned with the names of the members in letters 
of gold. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 85 

The Treasury occupies a wing of the palace, 
and contains. rehcs of great value; the large bell 
once used to warn the citizens of impending danger, 
weapons and trophies, gifts from foreign nations, 
and cases of table service of gold and silver, once 
the property of former czars. Here, also, are the 
chair on which Charles XII. was carried at the 
battle of Poltawa, the baldachino, under which 
the emperor and empress walk at their coronation, 
the throne of Poland, brought from Warsaw in 
1833, the ivory throne of Ivan III., who first took 
the title of Caesar or Czar of Russia, the throne of 
Alexis, brought from Persia, in 1610, studded with 
countless diamonds, rubies, pearls and turquoises, 
the double throne of John and Peter, with a recess 
in its rear, in which their mother, concealed behind 
a curtain, dictated to them their addresses to the 
people, and those of the Empress Elizabeth, Paul 
I. and Michael Romanoff, each sovereign of Rus- 
sia having, according to custom, his own individ- 
ual throne and crown. The most valuable of these 
latter is that of Catherine L, containing 2,536 dia- 
monds, and an immense ruby bought at Pekin, b}^ 
order of Peter the Great; and those of John, 
Alexis, Michael, and the King of Kazan. Here, 
also, are the coronation robes of Nicholas L, Paul, 
Alexander I., and Alexander II. ; of Anna and 
Catherine II. A glass case contains the Order of 
the Garter, presented by Elizabeth to John the 
Terrible, and the iron cane of the latter, with 



86 A TOUR 

which he killed his son. Among the many state 
carriages is one which once belonged to the Em- 
press Elizabeth, arranged with every convenience 
for her habitation on the journey from St. Peters- 
burg to Moscow. 

The Cathedral of the Assumption, within the 
Kremlin, is one of the most interesting of the 
Christian churches of Russia. Here all the em- 
perors are crowned, and a wooden throne is still 
extant dating 988 A. D., in which rulers of Russia, 
before the reign of Peter the Great, stood during 
divine service. Among the many relics displayed 
are a nail from the True Cross, a robe of the 
Saviour and a remnant of the dress of the Virgin ; 
also an immense Bible presented to the cathedral 
by the mother of Peter the Great, which is en- 
crusted w^ith emeralds and rubies. 

The Cathedral of the Archangel Michael, with 
its nine gilded domes, was built in 1332 to com- 
memorate Russia's deliverance from a terrible 
famine, and is noted as being the last resting-place 
of all the sovereigns previous to Peter the Great. 
In the vaults below are the remains of the rulers 
of the Rurick and Romanoff dynasties, and among 
others are the tombs of John the Terrible and his 
son, whom he killed by a blow from his iron staff. 
A drop of the blood of John the Baptist, seen 
through glass, is an object of great veneration at 
one of the shrines. 

The Cathedral of the Annunciation, where the 



AROUND THE WORLD. 87 

Czars formerly received the sacraments of baptism 
and marriage, is most peculiarly frescoed, and the 
floor is paved with blocks of agate — a gift from 
the Shah of Persia. 

The House of the Holy Synod is celebrated as 
being the place where the myrrh or holy oil with 
which the children of Russia are baptized, is made 
and preserved. This oil — of which some four gal- 
lons are made every three years— is said to be 
sanctified by the addition of a few drops of the 
same oil with which Mary Magdalene anointed the 
feet of the Saviour : it is made from the choicest 
olives mixed with some sixty-seven different in- 
gredients ; the vessels in which this oil is prepared 
being of solid gold and silver. In the ceremony of 
baptism the priest uses a small camel's-hair brush 
with which, after dipping it in the oil, he makes the 
sign of the cross over the child's eyes, ears, mouth, 
hands and feet, that it may see, hear, speak and 
do no evil. The Synod also contains the church 
treasure, and the wardrobe of the patriarchs, some 
of which robes are elaborately embroidered in 
large pearls, and weighing as much as sixty 
pounds each. 

The Ivan Veliki Tower — the lower part of 
which is a chapel dedicated to St. John of the 
Ladder — is 325 feet high, and contains over 40 
magnificent bells. The Czar Rolokol — or king of 
bells — stands on a granite pedestal at the base of 
the tower. It was cast in 1730, during the reign 



88 A TOUR 

of the Empress Anna ; is 2 1 feet high, 6j feet in 
circumference, weighs 400,000 pounds, and is esti- 
mated to be worth $200,000. During a fire which 
once consumed the tower, this bell fell from its 
position, breaking a small section from its side, 
and buried itself in the ground, where it remained 
under the accumulation of soil for 100 years. 

The arsenal contains a sufficient number of 
weapons to arm 150,000 men. Along the outer 
walls are ranged 875 cannons captured from other 
nations; 375 pieces being those abandoned by 
Napoleon in his disastrous retreat of 1812. 

Just outside the walls of the Kremlin stands 
the Church of St. Basil, differing in style and 
architecture from any other church in Moscow. It 
has no less than twenty domes and towers, each 
differing from the other in form and dimension, 
and all gilded and painted in every possible variety 
of color and design. It was erected by order of 
John the Terrible, who was so pleased with the 
result that he caused the eyes of the architect to 
be put out, that he might not duplicate it. In the 
basement are preserved the iron chains, belts and 
crosses worn by St. Basil for penance. 

The Temple of the Saviour is a modern struc- 
ture erected to commemorate the defeat of the 
French, and is probably the finest church in all 
Russia. It is of immense proportions, surmounted 
by five gilded domes, the ceilings and walls of the 
interior are exquisitely frescoed, the pillars are of 



AROUND THE WORLD. 89 

jasper, and the floor of highly-polished Labrador 
porphyry and marble ; the total cost of this edifice 
having been 19,000,000 roubles, or $14,000,000. 

The Public Museum has a library of 16,000 
volumes, and a fair collection of paintings. Sev- 
eral rooms are devoted to life-size wax-figures, 
representing the different races of the Russian 
empire, illustrating their dress, occupations and 
form of worship. 

The Foundling Asylum, founded by Catherine 
II., is a Government institution, so extensive that 
it will readily accommodate over a thousand 
waifs under its roof Here all infants are received 
without question, and admirably cared for up to 
a certain age, when they are provided with homes 
in the countr}^ 

Sparrow Hill, reached by a favorite drive of 
eight miles from the city, commands a splendid 
view of Moscow. It was from this point Napoleon 
Bonaparte viewed the goal of his famous campaign, 
and the road over which he marched is still called 
the Road of the Grand Army. 

In Moscow, May 22nd, 1883, or May loth of 
Greco-Russian calendar, we witnessed the coro- 
nation ceremonies of the Czar, Alexander HI., 
and his Czarina Maria. The city donned her 
gayest holiday attire for this occasion ; buildings, 
both public and private, were hung with flags, 
festoons of gay-colored bunting and flowers ; 
arches covered with garlands of evergreens, and 



go A TOUR 

decorated with paintings and monograms of 
the imperial consorts spanned the streets at 
frequent intervals. On the day previous to the 
ceremonies, the Emperor and Empress, accompa- 
nied by the royal family, and escorted by 75,000 
troops from St. Petersburg, arrived in Moscow, re- 
maining in a palace outside the city, preparatory 
to entering it in the pomp and magnificence of 
the occasion. 

At 9 A. M. on the morning of the grand 
entree, the streets on the line of procession were 
required to be vacated by all save those taking 
part in the ceremonies, and occupants of houses 
compelled to submit their names to the police 
department. 

Owing to the wide-spread sense of insecurity 
inspired by the actions of the nihilists, to whose 
animosity the Emperor's father had but recently 
fallen victim, and whose mysteriously-conveyed 
threats filled his successor's heart with dread, the 
utmost precautions against a similar catastrophe 
were taken. 

A hundred thousand troops lined either side 
of the streets along the line of procession, and 
behind them stood a secret organization, in plain 
citizen's dress, sworn to protect with their lives 
the person of the Emperor. Sentinels were sta- 
tioned on every house-top, in every cellar, and at 
the front and rear doors of every house. Officers, 
mounted on handsomely -caparisoned horses, 



AROUNn THE WORLD. 



91 



patrolled tlie streets to ensure further security 
against the possibiHty of surprise. At precisely 
I P. M. cannons were fired, and bells Avere rung 
throughout the city, to announce that the royal 
procession had started, when both soldier and 
citizen removed his hat, and reverently crossed 
himself The order of procession was as follows : 



Chief of police and gens d'armes mounted. 

Body-guard 

Imperial horse-guards 

Asiatic deputies . 

Circassian deputies 

Russian nobles 

Palace officials 

The Emperor's hunters 

Assistant masters of ceremonies 

Grand master of ceremonies. 

Imperial grooms and Nubian attendants on foot. 

High palace-officials in state carriages. 

Court marshals '' an 

Imperial counsel *^ '' '' 

Russian nobles '' '* *' 

Kings and princes in golden state carriages. 

Imperial guard mounted. 

Czar Alexander III., mounted on a white horse, 

and dressed in the full uniform of a general. 
The Crown Prince and the Princes, his brothers, 

on black horses. 
The Grand Dukes, on bay horses. 



95 A TOUR 

Ministers of State and War ; mounted. 

Foreign princes and suites, in state carriages. 

The Empress Maria and young Princess, in a 
golden chariot, drawn by eight white horses, 
caparisoned with gilded harness and nodding 
ostrich plumes, attended by grooms and postil- 
ions in rich liveries. 

Relatives of the Empress, in golden state car- 
riages, drawn by six black horses each. 

Relatives of the Emperor, in golden state car- 
riages, drawn by six black horses each. 

Other members of the Imperial Family, in gold 
and silver state carriages. 

Empress' suite in carriages. 

Imperial troops mounted. 

Imperial dragoons. 

Russian infantry. 

At each of the old city gates salutes were 
fired, denoting the progress of the procession ; and 
as the Emperor appeared in sight, loud and con- 
tinuous acclamations arose from the multitude, 
resounding along the entire route of procession. 
As the Emperor passed the various churches and 
other religious institutions, priests appeared, bear- 
ing crucifixes, to bless him on his way. Arriving 
at the St. Nicholas gate the Emperor and Em- 
press, in accordance with an old Russian custom, 
descended to ofier a prayer and receive the bless- 
ing of the priest at the shrine of the Iberian Mother 



AROUND THE WORLD. 93 

of God, before entering the Kremlin through the 
Redeemer's gate. Here a salute of loi cannon 
was fired, and as the procession filed through every 
man, from the Emperor to the humblest of his 
train, reverently uncovered. Proceeding to the 
cathedral, prayer and thanksgiving were offered, 
and from here they finally entered the palace of 
the Kremlin. 

Next day occurred the consecration of the im- 
perial standard. During the three days following, 
while the Emperor fasted — taking only brown 
bread and tea — heralds, accompanied by squad- 
rons of cuirassiers, chevaliers and life-guards, 
regimental bands, and several masters of corona- 
tion ceremonies in showy and picturesque attire, 
proclaimed the approaching coronations at the 
chief barriers and gates, and public places of the 
city ; and after the herald's blast of trumpets, the 
multitude uncovered, and listened to the following 
proclamation read aloud by the Secretary of the 
Senate : 

** Our most august, most high, and most 
mighty sovereign. Emperor Alexander Alexan- 
drovitch, having ascended the hereditary throne 
of the Empire of all the Russias and of the King- 
dom of Poland, and of the Grand Duchy of 
Finland, which are inseparable from it, has been 
pleased to ordain, in imitation of his predecessors 
and glorious ancestors, that the sacred solemnity 
of the coronation and consecration of his Imperial 



94 A TOUR 

Majesty, which his Majesty wills that his august 
Consort, the Empress Maria Feodorovna shall 
share, do, with the aid of the Almighty, take 
place on the 15th (27th) of May, i 883. By the 
present proclamation, therefore, this solemn act is 
announced to all the faithful subjects of his Ma- 
jesty, to the end that on this auspicious day they 
may send up to the King of Kings their most fer- 
vent prayers, and implore the Almighty One to 
extend the favor of His blessing to the reign of 
his Majesty ; to the maintenance of peace and 
tranquillity to the very great glory of His Holy 
Name, and to the unchanging weal of the empire." 
May 15th (27th) the coronation of the Czar 
took place in the Cathedral of the Assumption, 
which was filled to overflowing with the royal 
family, foreign ministers and distinguished guests. 
Out of the fourteen social grades of Russia, only 
the two highest were admitted within the limits 
of the cathedral. At i o'clock the Emperor and 
Empress left the palace, and entering the cathe- 
dral ascended their thrones, Alexander occu- 
pying the ivory throne of Alexis Feodorovitch; 
and Maria the silver and jewel-studded one of 
Alexis Michaelovitch. After .divine services and 
prayers offered up by the metropolitans of Mos- 
cow, Kief, and Novgorod, high-priests of the 
Greek Church, and the Emperor had professed the 
orthodox Catholic faith, they invested him with 
the coronation robe of ermine, saying: ''Cover 



AROUND THE WORLD. 95 

and protect thy people, as this robe covers and 
protects thee;'* to which the Emperor made 
answer, '' I will." Then taking the crown from 
the priests' hands, he placed it upon his own 
head, and assumed the sceptre and orb. The 
Empress then knelt before the Emperor, who first 
touched her forehead with his diadem, and then 
placed a smaller crown upon her head, after which 
they both received the Holy Sacrament. The cere- 
mony concluded, the imperial pair, wearing their 
crowns and coronation robes, and preceded by the 
priests, walked from the church to the palace 
under a magnificent baldachino, or canopy of silk 
and gold, surmounted by ostrich feathers of white, 
black and yellow. This was borne by thirty-two 
generals of the highest rank, guarded on either 
side by noblemen, and followed by the royal 
household. At the palace the Emperor and Em- 
press received deputations from all parts of their 
dominions, all of whom, agreeably to custom, 
brought and presented, with many costly gifts, 
offerings of salt and brown bread ; a curious gift 
being a bottle of fermented mare's milk, presented 
by one of the Kirghiz from the Steppes. At night 
the entire city was illuminated by a dazzling 
glitter of 10,000,000 colored lights in every con- 
ceivable form and device, palaces, churches, tow- 
ers, walls and gates outlined with innumerable 
lights — a dazzling scene of indescribable magnif- 
icence. 



g6 A TOUR 

The two weeks following were devoted to 
receptions and balls, while national fetes and 
amusements of all kinds were provided on a large 
scale for the lower classes. 

Sebastopol, on the Crimean Peninsula, has to- 
day a population of only ii,ooo, but its inhabi- 
tants numbered 25,000 previous to the Crimean 
war. It is surrounded, on every side, by strong 
fortifications, now abandoned according to treaty, 
but doing efficient service during the war of 1853- 
55, when Russia defended herself against the 
combined arms of England, France, Turkey, 
and Italy. Sebastopol presents a picturesque 
appearance, both on account of its situation 
and the numerous ruins resulting from the war, 
whole streets showing traces of the heavy cannon- 
ading, not a house being left habitable after the 
bombardment of eighteen months. On one side 
of the town is Malakoff, an eminence taken and 
re-taken repeatedly by the French and Russians, 
where so many thousands perished ; beyond it is 
the Redan ; two miles away Inkerman, on the 
road to Moscow ; and ten miles to the east, Bala- 
klava, a small village, mostly inhabited by Tar- 
tars. In every direction, for several miles, are to 
be seen breastworks and fortifications, while the 
cemeteries contain the bodies of some 500,000 of 
those killed in battle. 

Warsaw, the former capital of Poland, situated 
on the Vistula, has 337,000 inhabitants, of which 



AROUND THE WORLD. 97 

number 40,000 are Jews. Having ceased to be a 
place of royal residence in 1831, its palaces are 
now converted into public offices and barracks. 
Of its churches, 90 are Roman Catholic, the re- 
maining 10 being divided among the Protestant, 
Greek, Mohammedan and Jewish persuasions. The 
citadel is strongly fortified, and in its underground 
cells are kept political prisoners and nihilists, 
25,000 soldiers being constantly on watch to pre- 
vent insurrections, and protect the Russian fron- 
tier. Among the statues which adorn the streets 
of the city is one of the astronomer Copernicus, 
who was a native of Warsaw, one of Sigismund 
III., in the palace square, and an obelisk to five 
Polish generals, who fell fighting for Russia 
against their own country. The park surround- 
ing the old Saxon palace is a beautiful promenade, 
and a favorite resort of the beaus and belles of 
Warsaw. The Jews' quarter has some points of 
local interest ; each shop bears its sign in four 
different languages ; the men wear long coats, and 
a curl hanging over each ear, and the women 
wigs of false red hair over their own natural locks. 
The Palace of Lazienski was the residence of 
King Poniatowski; it is situated on an island, in the 
midst of a lovely lake, and surrounded by beauti- 
ful grounds. A curious and interesting feature 
belonging to the palace is an open-air theatre, 
built of stone, and ornamented Avith statues, the 
audience being seated in an amphitheatre of stone 

7 



98 A TOUR 

benches graded down to the water's edge; and 
on a small island opposite, separated by a narrow 
strip of water, and accessible only by boat, is the 
stage where the performance takes place, while 
gayly-lighted barks passing to and fro add ani- 
mation to this already novel scene. 



CHAPTER IX. 



BERLIN : DRESDEN, 



Berlin, the capital of the German Empire, as 
well as of Prussia, has a population of 1,123,000, 
and is situated on the river Spree, which is crossed 
by fifty bridges. It is one of the handsomest 
cities in Europe, and is the great centre of intel- 
lectual and artistic development of Northern Ger- 
many. It is the home of many of the best Ger- 
man artists and scientists, and a place of various 
and extensive manufactures. 

Unter den Linden, so called from its double 
rows of lime trees, is a beautiful avenue over a 
mile in length, ornamented with statues, and lined 
with palaces and other handsome buildings. Here 
are continually to be seen the military, accom- 
panied by fine bands, handsome equipages, and 
crowds of pedestrians. 



AROUND THE WORLD. gp 

The finest monuments of the city are, the 
equestrian statue of Frederick the Great, in 
bronze, surrounded by his leading generals, and 
statesmen, 31 in number; the work of the famous 
German sculptor. Ranch ; also those of Frederick 
William III. the great Elector, father of Frederick 
I.; Blucher, Bulow, Goethe, Schiller, and other 
prominent men. The Brandenburg Gate, erected 
in 1789, surmounted by Victory in a chariot, is a 
magnificent triumphal arch, facing the palace at 
the other extremity of the Unter den Linden. 
This gate leads into the Thier-garten, a lovely 
park beautifully arranged for promenading and 
driving; in it are several small inclosures for open 
air concerts, and in the centre of the park stands 
a column to Victory, surmounted by an angel, 
commemorative of the wars of 1864-66-71. 

The Royal Palace, built by Frederick I., is 
spacious, and used on state occasions only ; at its 
entrance are the bronze horses presented by 
Nicholas of Russia, and in the court the statue of 
St. George and the Dragon. The palace contains 
600 apartments, magnificent in gilding and mir- 
rors. In the throne- room is an elaborately- 
carved silver balcony, intended for an orchestra, 
and opposite the throne are golden shields, 
arranged on the walls as reflectors of the lights. 
The White Hall, used for state balls, contains the 
statues of the twelve electors of Brandenburg, and 
the banqueting hall, 70 yards long, is also the 



^. 



lOO A TOUR 



picture gallery. In it are paintings of Frederick 
the Great and his generals, Bonaparte crossing the 
Alps, and the Coronation of William as King of 
Prussia, at Konigsberg, in i86i, and as Emperor 
of Germany at Versailles in 1871. The chapel 
seats 1500 people, and is walled and paved with 
variegated marbles. 

The Emperor's home-palace, while being ele- 
gantly furnished, and filled with works? of art, has 
every appearance of genuine comfort. 

The Chateau Montbijou, formerly a palace, is 
devoted at present to a collection of historical 
relics. Frederick the Great is here represented in 
wax, seated in his coronation chair, with his flute, 
and surrounded by his favorite dogs and war 
horse. In the room of Frederick William III. arc 
some specimens of embroidery done by the beau- 
tiful Queen Louise, mother of the present emperor ; 
also are preserved Napoleon's hat, and all his 
decorations, taken by Bliicher at the battle of 
Waterloo; and two cannon-balls welded together 
as they met in mid-air at the siege of Magde- 
burg. 

The Royal Library contains Luther's Bible, 
from which he made his translation ; also the 
translations of the psalms in his own handwriting, 
Guttenberg's Bible, the first book printed with 
movable type, ^in 1450; the prayer-book which 
Charles I. carried with him to the scaffold, and 
two hemispheres of metal, by means of which Otto 



AROUND THE WORLD. 101 

Guericke discovered the principles of the air- 
pump. 

In the Cathedral are the coffins of Frederick 
William and Frederick I. and their queens, and 
here the Mendelsohn choir chant every Sunday ; 
while adjoining the church is the Campo Santo, or 
royal burying-ground. 

In the Royal stables are two hundred horses 
of choice breeds, chiefly black in color ; but the 
state carriages, although of more substantial make, 
do not compare in elegance with those of France 
or England. 

The Panopticon is a collection of wax-figures 
representing the monarchs and prominent men of 
Germany and other nations. A life-like group 
is that representing the Council of Arbitration held 
at Geneva, September 14th, 1872, and presided 
over by Bismarck. 

In the National gallery is a fine collection from 
the best modern artists of Germany ; among the 
340 paintings on exhibition, are Jeremiah lament- 
ing before Jerusalem, by Belderman ; Jeptha's 
Daughter, by Richter ; the March of Death, by 
Spangenburg ; the Pursuit of Fortune, by Kenne- 
berg, and some strong battle-scenes by various 
other noted painters. Of the groups of statuary 
we particularly noticed Faith, Hope and Charity, 
by Kiss ; Hagar and Ishmael, by Wittig ; and 
Prometheus Bound, by'Miiller. 

The Museum of Berlin, taken as a whole, is 



I02 A TOUR 

scarcely inferior to any in Europe. In front of the 
building is an immense vase of polished granite, 
66 feet in circumference, the largest in the world. 
At one side of the entrance is a celebrated group 
in bronze by Kiss, of an Amazon slaying a tiger, 
and on the other, one by Wolf, of spearing a lion. 
In the Egyptian apartment is a temple supported 
by pillars, and enclosing statues of deities and 
kings: also the tomb of a high-priest, brought 
from Thebes, spices and other ingredients for em- 
balming, and brass hooks used for drawing the 
brain through the nose. In the picture gallery is 
a painting of the Temptation of St. Anthony, by 
Teniers : the artist represents the saint in his own 
person, his wife, with a small portion of tail visible 
beneath the folds of her dress portrays the Temp- 
tress, while the mother-in-law appears in the very 
decided form of a devil. 

Potsdam, 20 miles from Berlin, has no less 
than five palaces, the summer residence of royalty. 
The palace of Sans Souci, built by Frederick the 
Great, is a low, unpretending building externally, 
but replete with historic interest. In the room in 
which Frederick breathed his last is the clock 
which stopped the moment of his death, its hands 
yet pointing to the hour and minute. Adjoining 
the apartments of his royal friend and host, is 
the bedroom of Voltaire, left undisturbed since his 
occupation. In the midst of the handsome 
grounds stands the historic windmill which Fred- 



AROUND THE WORLD. 103 

erick desired to purchase on account of the ground 
it occupied, but the miller refusing to sell, the king 
brought suit and lost; whereupon he built the 
miller a fine mill as a monument to Prussian 
justice. 

Charlottenhof, a villa in the same grounds, 
built by Frederick William III., contains the 
apartments occupied by Alexander von Hum- 
boldt, and is built in imitation of a Pompeian 
dwelling, with baths, fountains, statues and bronzes 
taken from the ruins of Pompeii. 

The New Palace, now occupied by the Crown 
Prince, was erected by Frederick the Great at 
enormous expense, after the Seven Years' war, in 
order to show his enemies the extent of his re- 
sources. The ball-room is built to imitate the 
interior of a grotto, the walls and ceilings being 
formed from shells and minerals of every variety, 
interspersed at intervals by cascades and sta- 
lactites. 

Babelsburg, the summer residence of the 
present Emperor, is a castle beautifully located 
on an eminence overlooking the surrounding 
country. 

In the town of Potsdam is the Garnison 
Church, its walls covered with flags taken from 
the Austrians and French, where lie the remains 
of Frederick the Great and those of his father, 
Frederick William I. 

Charlottenburg, a suburb of Berlin, contains 



^ 



104 A TOUR 

the palace built by the queen of Frederick I., en- 
vironed by beautiful grounds with avenues of 
orange and pine-trees. To the rear of the palace 
is a mausoleum of granite, in which are the tombs 
of Frederick William III. and the beautiful queen 
Louise, father and mother of the present Em- 
peror; also the heart of Frederick William IV. 
The recumbent figures repose on a marble sarco- 
phagus, both masterpieces by Ranch ; and on 
cither side are marble candelabra representing, re- 
spectively, the three Muses and the three Fates. 
Anniversary services are held here twice a year ; 
the subdued light shining on the marble figures 
through blue glass, giving a weird effect to the 
scene. 

In Berlin we witnessed a grand review of the 
German army, some 40,000 men, by the Emperor 
William, who, though 86 years old, rode on horse- 
back and looked every inch a soldier, while the 
troops, in their gay uniforms, commanded by 
officers the names of many of whom are historic, 
moved with wonderful precision and exactitude. 

At the Royal Opera House the same evening, 
Satanella was especially rendered for his Majesty, 
who, with the royal family, occupied four boxes ; 
and on each side were his ministers, generals and 
high officials, numbering about three hundred per- 
sons. Of the five hundred performers, two hun- 
dred were an unrivalled ballet of beautiful girls, 
the leading dancer, Fraulein Del Era, being con- 



AROUND THE WORLD lOJ 

sidered the equal of the famous Taglioni. The 
scenery was superb and original ; hell represented 
teeming with devils and imps, while heaven was a 
garden of blooming flowers, with statuary, foun- 
tains and music the danseuses embodying devils 
and flowers. 

Dresden, the capital of the kingdom of Saxony, 
is on the Elbe, and has a population of 221,000. 
Its rich collections of works of art, its many men 
of learning and talent, its splendid opera, its edu- 
cational advantages, added to its healthy and 
bracing climate, have made it a favorite residence 
of Americans abroad. The river divides the city 
into the new and the old town ; in the former is 
an equestrian statue of Augustus II., while in the 
latter are the finest private residences, public 
buildings and squares, and the monuments to 
Carl Weber and Frederick Augustus ; also a 
statue to Victory, commemorative of the war 
of 1 87 1. Of its various manufactures, those of 
porcelain and m_usical instruments are the most 
extensive and celebrated. 

In the Schloss, or Royal Palace, are the Green 
Vaults, a series of eight rooms, with a rare and 
valuable collection of precious stones, and carv- 
ings in ivory and crystal. One room contains the 
gala dress of the Elector of Saxony, consisting of 
coat and vest buttons, epaulets, sword-hilt, scab- 
bard and buckles, all made of diamonds of the 
purest water, and weighing from 40 to 50 carats 



106 A TOUR 

each, while in another is the coronation robe of 
Frederick Augustus II., when crowned King of 
Poland. Among a number of immense pearls is 
one as large as a hen's egg, which forms the 
body of a statuette of a certain court-dwarf of 
Spain. A great curiosity is a miniature court of 
the Great Mogul, the throne being of gold and 
silver, surrounded by 138 enamelled figures, set 
with precious stones. The green diamond is 
among the magnificent stones here exhibited, 
which are worn by each queen at her coronation, 
upon the delivery of which she is required to give 
a receipt, and to return them to the vaults the fol- 
lowing day. To give an idea of the immense 
value of the collection, the contents of this room 
alone is said to be valued at $15,000,000. The 
great wealth here lying idle is accounted for by 
the fact of the Saxon princes, — formerly the rich- 
est monarchs in Europe, having owned the Frei- 
burg silver mines, and invested much of their 
great wealth in precious stones. 

The Japanese Palace, so called from its Jap- 
anese decorations, was built by Augustus the 
Strong, as a summer residence ; at present it is 
devoted to a collection of statuary, and a library 
rich in manuscripts, among them the conjuring 
book of Dr. Faustus. 

The Military and Historical Museum surpasses 
all others in the variety, richness and quality of 
its arms and trappings for both man and horse. 



AROUND TPiE WORLD. lO; 

Among the relics are the cuirass, weighing lOO 
lbs., and the helmet 20 lbs., worn by Augustus, 
surnamed the Strong; also the horse-shoe which 
he broke in twain with the bare strength of his 
hand. Here, also, are the boots and saddle of 
Napoleon used at the battle of Dresden, and his 
slippers, worn at his coronation ; an elegantly 
embroidered tent, taken from a Turkish general 
at the siege of Vienna, and the pistols worn by 
Charles XII. the day of his death. The suits of 
armor seen here are the finest ever made, some 
weighing as much as 200 lbs. and causing certain 
death to the wearer, if thrown from his horse. 
The China collection numbers 60,000 pieces, 
dating from the earliest manufacture in China, 
thousands of years ago, to the present improved 
styles of Germany. 

The Picture Gallery of Dresden, so celebrated 
for its fine paintings by old masters, was respected 
by even those great despoilers of art. Napoleon I. 
and Frederick II., when taking the city. Its finest 
paintings are : the Madonna di San Sisto, by 
Raphael, purchased by Augustus III. from the 
Duke of Modena for $40,000 ; the Madonna and 
Burgomaster's child, Holbein's masterpiece ; 
Correggio's Virgin and Infant Christ; also his 
Recumbent Magdalene ; St. Cecelia, by Carlo 
Dolce ; the Flight into Egypt, by Claude ; Lio- 
tard's Chocolate Girl ; Battoni's Penitent Magda- 
lene ; the Disputation between Martin Luther and 



Io8 A TOUR 

Dr. Eck; and Behind the Scenes; the two latter 
paintings by modern artists. 

The CathoHc cathedral is a large edifice orna- 
mented with statues. It has a fine organ, and 
on Sundays the orchestra fi'om the Grand Opera 
House discourses sacred music. Over the altar is 
the Royal box, connected with the palace by a 
bridge crossing the street, and ladies and gentle- 
men are compelled to separate, and sit on oppo- 
site sides of the church. 

Meissen, 15 miles from Dresden, is celebrated 
for its porcelain manufacture of Dresden china. 
This was the first place in Europe where it was 
made, in 1705, Batticher, an alchymist, acciden- 
tally discovering the art, in his search for the 
Philosopher's Stone. Meissen is the terminus of 
the mammoth tunnel, 24 miles long, which drains 
the Frieburg silver mines ; and here, also, is an 
old Gothic castle, formerly occupied by the Saxon 
kings. 

From Dresden to Prague the railroad follows 
the river Elbe, and passes some old German and 
Austrian forts and castles, in the midst of fine 
mountain scenery, from which this section of 
country derives its name of the Switzerland of 
Saxony. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 109 



CHAPTER X. 

PRAGUE : LINZ : THE DANUBE : VIENNA : SEMMERING- 

PASS: ischl: gmunden: salzburg : koenigssee : 
INNSBRUCK : brixlegg : 

Prague, the capital of Bohemia, on the Mol- 
dau river, has a population of 250,000, and is next 
to Vienna in importance in the Austrian Empire. 
It is located in a basin, surrounded by high rocky 
cliffs, and is particularly noted for its manufacture 
of Bohemian glass-ware, and for the fine garnets 
it produces. On the heights of Laurenziberg the 
fire worshippers of old celebrated their peculiar 
rites, and where the acropolis now stands, was 
formerly the palace of Queen Lybussa, the 
founder of Prague, a notorious wanton, who cast 
her lovers into the river below, after becoming 
weary of them. 

The streets of Prague are for the most part 
narrow and crooked, and the numerous arches and 
gates spanning them add to their general antique 
appearance, while the principal avenues are well 
paved, and lighted by immense burners. Among 
the statues ornamenting the streets are, the eques- 
trian figure of Francis I., surrounded by sixty 
characters in bronze, representing the different 



no A TOUR 

provinces of Austria, and that of Von Radetz 
standing on his shield, borne by ten soldiers. A 
stone-bridge crossing the river has thirty-two life- 
size statues on either side of it, the centre one 
being a bronze figure of St. John Nepomuk, who 
was thrown from the bridge from this spot and 
drowned, by order of KingWencislaus, for refusing 
to betray the secrets of the queen, confided to 
him in the confessional. The five stars encircling 
his head are representative of those reflected in 
the water over the spot where the body lay until 
its recovery three days later. 

It was in Prague that John Huss, born at Huss 
in Bohemia, first became imbued with the doc- 
trines of Wickliff, and declared the worship of the 
Virgin and saints idolatory. In the museum 
still exists his autograph letter, challenging all 
who would to dispute with him on the articles of 
his belief Being summoned to Constance, to 
render an account of his doctrine, and under 
assurance of safe-conduct from the Emperor Sigis- 
mund, he fell into the snare ; for hardly had he 
arrived than he was thrown into prison, and suf- 
fered martyrdom at the stake, with heroic cour- 
age. Thus commenced the famous Hussite war 
led by John Zizka, who defeated the emperor ; 
and it is said, at his death, gave orders to have a 
drum made from his skin, in order to inspire his 
enemies with superstitious alarm. 

The Palace, or Hradschin, now occupied by 



AROUND THE WORLD. Ill 

the Crown Prince of Austria, was formerly the 
residence of the Bohemian kings, and contains 
I, GOO rooms. Its chief point of interest is the 
council chamber, where the imperial commission- 
ers, sent hither with the most intolerant edicts 
against the Bohemian protestants, were remorse- 
lessly thrown from the window, two crosses be- 
neath still marking the spot where they fell. This 
was in 1618, and the inauguration of the Thirty 
Years' War, which secured the liberty of Germany, 
and closed with the treaty of Westphalia, in 1648. 
The Cathedral of St. Vitus, in the palace 
inclosure, contains many fine monuments, besides 
being a complete museum of relics. Before its 
high altar, the emperors of Austria are crowned 
King of Bohemia. In this church are the marble 
tombs of Rudolph III. and other kings; a gor- 
geous shrine of silver, surrounded by angels, the 
whole weighing 4,000 lbs. incloses a crystal coffin, 
in which are the remains of St. John Nepomuk ; 
and in a side chapel, whose walls are of agate and 
amethyst, is the tomb of Saint Wenzel, who was 
murdered by his brother in the loth century. 
The Loretto Chapel is built in imitation of the 
wandering house of Nazareth, and is considered 
the most sacred shrine in Prague. It contains 
two rooms, counterparts of those occupied by 
Joseph and Mary. In the front room is a shelf, 
on which Joseph kept his tools, and here, also, are 
shown the leg-bone of Mary Magdalene, and the 



112 A TOUR 

skull of one of the wise virgins. The church 
treasury contains bones of Abraham, Isaac and 
Jacob, the pocket handkerchief of the Virgin, the 
tongue of St. John, a piece of wood and two nails 
from the True Cross, two thorns from the Crown of 
Christ, a fragment of the rope with which He was 
bound, the sponge with which He was given to 
drink, one of the palm-branches over which He 
rode ; also a candelabrum from Solomons' Tem- 
ple, the bridal dress of Maria Theresa, worked by 
her own hands into a Mass robe, and divers church 
insignia of gold and precious stones. 

The Thein Church, the oldest in Prague, still 
contains the pulpit from which John Huss, the 
celebrated reformer, preached, and the tomb of 
the great astronomer Tycho Brahe. It was here 
that the heads and hands of the Protestant leaders 
were buried, after having been taken down from 
the Gate Tower, where they had been hung to 
appease the anger of Ferdinand after the battle of 
Whitehill. 

In the old Jewish synagogue, which dates 
back 1,300 years, are the ancient parchments of 
the laws which were found when the building was 
unearthed. The burying-ground adjoining is a 
curious sight, crowded with graves on top of 
graves, the tombstones lying one against another, 
some engraved with a bunch of grapes, the em- 
blem of the tribes of Israel, and dating back to 
the 1 2th century. 



AROUND THE WORLD. II3 

The Wallenstein Palace, built by the hero and 
generalissimo of the Thirty- Years' war, is an im- 
mense structure, to make room for which 136 
houses were torn down. The grounds within the 
palace walls are tastefully arranged, and in one 
room is preserved the war-horse of Count Wallen- 
stein, shot under him in battle. It is said that he 
lived in a style of magnificence superior to that of 
the Emperor, being attended by sixty pages of 
noble birth, barons and knights. When he went 
abroad, over a hundred carriages were in his 
train, besides fifty of the finest saddle-horses, and 
he could travel for three hundred miles in a 
straight line, without quitting his estates. His 
income was $5,000,000 annually, but all was con- 
fiscated at his death by the Emperor, who, it is 
supposed, instigated his murder by poison. 

The Rathhaus and the Square in which it 
stands are interesting, from their association with 
many remarkable historical events. During the 
Hussite troubles the mob entered the council 
chamber, and threw the German councillors out 
of the windows, upon the upraised spears of 
those below, repeating the same act of barbarity 
sixty years later, and in the square, John of Lux- 
emburg, commonly known as the blind king of 
Bohemia, was wounded in a tournament 

Linz, on the Danube, has a population of 
30,000, and is the principal town of Upper Aus- 
tria. In the Market-place stands the Trinity 



114 A TOUR 

Column, erected in 1713 by Charles VI., and in 
the Church of the Capuchins is the tomb of 
Montecuculi, a celebrated general of the Thirty 
Years' war. From the Tower of Freiberg, which 
was built by the Archduke Maximilian, and is 
surrounded by 32 forts, is obtained one of the 
finest views in Austria, the Danube winding its 
devious course through a varied landscape. 

Taking steamer from this point to Vienna, a 
distance of 1 10 miles, one passes through the 
most beautiful and picturesque scenery of the 
Danube, which is bordered on either side with 
high mountain peaks, crowned by castles, monas- 
teries, and ruins, and is to Austria what the Rhine 
is to Germany. 

Vienna, the capital of the Austrian Empire, 
situated on the banks of the Danube, has a popu- 
lation of over 1,000,000 inhabitants, and is fifteen 
miles in circumference. The old town is in the 
heart of the city, and what was formerly its fortifi- 
cations, is now the Ringstrasse — a broad and 
elegant boulevard three miles in circuit, bordered 
with trees and handsome buildings. Vienna has 
two large parks, besides many squares and gardens 
beautified with fine statues and lovely walks. More 
wealth is here represented than in any other Eu- 
ropean city of its size. Its people are light- 
hearted, gay and fond of music, and are partial to 
out-of-door amusements. The cafes and concert 
gardens are brilliantly illuminated at night, and 



AROUND THE WORLD. II5 

thronged with a pleasure-seeking crowd, all com- 
bining to render this city the second Paris of the 
world. 

In the Palace grounds, which are open to the 
public, are the superb equestrian statue of Arch- 
duke Charles, representing him bearing a flag at 
the battle of Wagram, and that of Prince Eugene 
of Savoy. In the same grounds is a small tem- 
ple built for the express purpose of containing 
Canova's fine group of Theseus killing the Centaur, 
which was cut from an immense block of marble. 
The sculptor received the order for this piece of 
statuary from Napoleon, who destined it for the 
triumphal arch at Milan. A portion of the park 
is appropriated as a concert garden, where every 
evening the military band, and Strauss', led by 
that excellent composer himself, discourse delight- 
ful strains of music. 

The Imperial Palace, besides having many 
large state apartments, contains the Grand Salon, 
where the Thursday before Easter of each year the 
Emperor and Empress wash the feet of twelve old 
people brought in indiscriminately from the street, 
in token of humility. In the bed-room of Maria 
Theresa is the furniture which was once used by 
her ; and an adjoining apartment is hung with 
40 landscape pictures made of Florentine mosaic 
of great value and beauty. 

The Imperial Library contains 1,000,000 vol- 
umes, and is said to be the largest in Europe ; in 



Il6 A TOUR 

it are the psalm-book of Charlemagne ; the MSS. 
of Tasso's Jerusalem Delivered, and Dante's Divina 
Commedia ; and a military map of the Roman 
empire of the 4th century. 

In the imperial stables are several hundred 
horses, white ones being used exclusively on state 
occasions; and among the 100 carriages and sleds 
are the coronation carriages of Maria Theresa and 
Napoleon I. 

Many rare and beautiful jewels of fabulous 
value, are kept in the imperial jewel house, among 
which are gems belonging to the imperial family ; 
the crowns of the Emperor and Empress of Aus- 
tria, sceptres, orbs. Orders of the Golden Fleece, 
and other national decorations. Here is an em- 
erald weighing 2,980 carats, and the Florentine 
diamond, 133)^ carats, lost by Charles the Bold 
at the battle of Granson. Among the historical 
curiosities are the Turkish seal of the Sultan Mus- 
tapha II., the sword of Charlemagne, the horo- 
scope of Count Waldstein ; the carving-knife used 
by Philip of Burgundy at the inauguration of the 
Order of the Golden Fleece ; a silver chain of one 
of the Doges of Venice, the silver cradle of 
Napoleon II., and the coronation mantle and 
crown of Napoleon I. when crowned king of 
Italy. Among the sacred relics are the book of 
the holy Gospel found on the knees of the Emperor 
Charlemagne, when his tomb was opened by Otho 
II. at Aix-la-Chapelle; the lance of St. Maurice, 



AROUND THE WORLD. 11^ 

with a nail from the Holy Cross set in the point 
of the blade ; a piece of the True Cross six inches 
in length, and surpassed in size only by that pre- 
served in Rome; a portion of the table-cloth used 
at the Last Supper ; a remnant of the apron worn 
by Jesus when He washed the feet of His disciples ; 
a bone of the arm of St. Anne, — mother of the 
Virgin ; three links of the iron chains with which 
the apostles^ Peter, Paul and John were fettered ; 
a piece of the garment of St. John the Evangelist ; 
a tooth of St. John the Baptist, and blood of the 
holy martyr, Stephen. 

The Imperial Arsenal, a fine structure, is hand- 
somely frescoed with scenes from the celebrated 
battles of Austria, painted by her best artists, and 
has 200,000 stands of arms and armor of every 
period. Of the historic souvenirs are the elk-skin 
coat in which Gustavus Adolphus was shot at the 
battle of Lutzen ; the uniform of Prince Eugene 
and the armors of Maurice of Saxony, and of 
Alexander Farnese, Duke of Parma. In the Hall 
of Glory are fifty-six beautifully-carved marble 
statues of Austria's monarchs and bravest war- 
riors ; also a colossal group representing Austria 
shielding her provinces. The court-yard contains 
the monster chain, composed of 8,000 links, which 
was thrown across the Danube in 1529. 

The Cathedral of St. Stephen, in the heart of 
the city, is an elegant Gothic building of imposing 
dimensions standing on the site of an old cemetery 



Il8 A TOUR 

which Joseph II., for sanitary reasons, caused to 
be obhterated, and the human remains destroyed 
with quickhme. Near the top of the spire of this 
church, which is 450 feet high, is the watch-tower 
whence alarms are given in case of fire. Its bell 
weighs 358 cwt, and was made from 180 cannon 
taken from the Turks. The interior of the cathe- 
dral is rich in sculpture and stained glass, and in 
it are the tombs of Prince Eugene and of the 
Emperor Frederick I. 

The Votive church, a modern and elaborate 
structure, was founded by the Archduke Maxi- 
milian — afterwards emperor of Mexico — to com- 
memorate an unsuccessful attempt made upon the 
life of his brother, the present emperor, Francis 
Joseph I. 

The Church of the Augustines, where the em- 
perors of Austria are crowned, is embellished by 
the monument of the Archduchess Christine, a 
masterpiece by Canova. It is a pyramid of 
marble representing the entrance to a vault, with 
figures of Virtue, Benevolence and Humility in 
the act of ascending the steps. Here also is buried 
Dr. Van Swieton, physician to Maria Theresa, and 
one of the earliest authorities on vaccination. In 
the Loretto chapel are silver urns containing the 
hearts of the imperial family, their entrails being 
deposited in another church, and their bodies in a 
third. 

The Church of the Capuchins is the royal 



Around the worlI). 119 

burial vault, in which may be seen the coffins of 
Maria Theresa, Francis of Lorraine, Joseph II., 
Francis I., Marie Louise, — wife of Napoleon L, 
their son. Napoleon II., Maximilian, Emperor of 
Mexico, and many other scions of royalty. 

The Upper Belvidere Palace was built by the 
Austrian General-in-Chief, Eugene of Savoy, in 
1724, and was appropriated by Joseph II. for the 
picture gallery of the imperial court. Besides the 
portraits of Maria Theresa and Joseph II., are 
Titian's Ecce Homo ; Van Dyke's Crucifixion, 
and portraits of the aged parents of Rembrandt 
and of Denner, painted by these two artists. 
Among the modern paintings are the Last Ap- 
peal, by Defregger ; Hecuba weeping for her 
children, by Russ; and the Queen of Naples 
with her children on the way to prison, by 
Engerth. 

The Lower Belvidere contains the Ambras 
collection, brought from the Tyrol by the Arch- 
duke Ferdinand : of these are suits of armor of 
Maximilian, Ferdinand, and of his giant attendant, 
eight feet in height; besides fine specimens of 
carved ivory, and some portraits of the nobility of 
Europe. 

In the city Arsenal is the head of the Grand 
Vizier Mustapha, a Turkish general commanding 
at the siege of Vienna, in 1683, who was strangled 
by order of the sultan for having failed to take 
the city, and here also are his saddle and baton. 



120 A TOiJk 

Mohammed's Green Standard is among the many 
Turkish trophies here displayed ; it is three by 
four feet in dimension, of green stuff striped 
with yellow, inscribed with mottoes from the 
Koran, and the names of the first four followers 
of the Prophet ; Abu Bekr; Omar; Osman ; and 
Ali ; this is carried in holy wars and raised only 
on occasions of dire distress ; and all who fall 
fighting beneath this banner are assured of 
Heaven. 

The Cabinet of Antiquities has a large and 
valuable collection of cameos ; one of them, the 
largest in the world being 26 inches in circumfer- 
ence, carved in representation of the Apotheosis 
of Augustus, and considered the perfection of 
art. 

In the National Exhibition of Paintings — which 
takes places annually were : the Dying Wish, by 
Valentiny; the Virgin Consolatrice, by Bouguerau; 
the Death of Wallenstein, by Piloig; the Pest at 
Tournay, by Gallait ; Leda and the Swan, by 
Michael Angelo ; and lo and Jupiter, by Correg- 
gio. 

Schonbrunn, five miles from Vienna, is the 
summer palace of the Emperor. It was built by 
Maria Theresa, and is in the midst of beautiful 
grounds in which are high hedges, Pompeian 
ruins, and the Gloretta Temple. It was here the 
assassination of Napoleon I. was attempted by the 
German student Stapps, and the place possesses a 



AkOUND THE WORLD, 1^1 

melancholy historic interest from its having been 
the scene of the death of the young Duke of 
Reichstadt--— Napoleon II, in 1832, in the same 
bed occupied by his imperial father in 1809. The 
council-room of Maria Theresa ; the tapestry 
apartments, and Napoleon's bedroom are points of 
much interest. 

From Vienna we went by rail over the Sem- 
mering Pass, which is 3,256 feet high, the lowest 
in the Alpine range, passing mountain rocks tow- 
ering over 10,000 feet, fertile valleys and beauti- 
ful lakes and cascades, forming the grandest 
scenery of the Austrian Alps. There are many 
exquisitely beautiful spots on this route which de- 
serve more than a passing notice: Aussee, at the 
junction of three rivers which form Lake Traun 
is overlooked by Mount Loser, a peak 5,000 feet 
high, and is celebrated for its whey cure. 

Hallstadt, on the romantic lake of the same 
name, is situated at the base of a mountain 7,000 
feet high, which rises abruptly from the water, 
leaving no place for a road ; communication being 
maintained by steps, the houses resembling swal- 
lows' nests clinging to the side of the rock. 

Ischl, a small town on a river of the same 
name, is a fashionable Austrian watering-place. 
It is picturesquely located in a basin environed on 
all sides by high mountain peaks, and is the site of 
the Emperor's favorite summer palace. The ex- 
tensive salt-works belonging to the government 



122 A totJk 

are located at this place ; the salt and mud baths, 
for which it is noted, attract large numbers of 
invalids. 

Gmiinden, a village of 2,000 inhabitants, is 
also a fashionable summer resort and one of the 
loveliest spots in Europe. It nestles on the banks 
of Lake Traun, which is nine miles long and one 
wide, hemmed in on all sides by mountain peaks, 
some of which rise almost perpendicularly to a 
height of six thousand feet. The shores of this 
lake are dotted with pretty villages and the villas 
of nobility ; avenues of trees border the banks, 
and fanciful little boats whose oars keep time to 
the rhythm of the musical strains borne from the 
shore, float placidly on its glassy surface. 

Salzburg, the capital of the Austrian province 
of the same name, is on the river Salza, and has 
a population of 20,000. The Castle of Hohen- 
salzburg, which crowns the heights overlooking 
the city, was the former residence of the sover- 
eign archbishop. In the Rack Tower is the cham- 
ber of torture, where many protestant victims 
were first hung to the roof with 150 lb. weights 
tied to their feet ; and then allowed to drop into 
a terrible donjon below. 

Salzburg was the birthplace of Mozart — 1756 
— and in the room where he first saw the light, 
are yet preserved his spinet and piano, and the 
MS. of his musical compositions written when 
only four years old. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 1 23 

In St. Peter's cemetery, which dates back to 
the 4th century, are vaults cut in the rock 200 
feet from the level of the ground ; and from a 
cave above, the hermit St. Maximus with his fol- 
lowers were thrown, in 477, when the town was 
destroyed by the German tribes. Here lies buried 
the great composer Haydn ; and seven iron 
crosses indicate the number of wives of a certain 
man who murdered them in turn, by tickling their 
feet until death relieved them from their hilarious 
torture. 

The Palace of Heilbrunn, four miles from the 
city is celebrated for its numerous fountains : the 
Neptune Grotto sending forth 5,000 jets; and a 
curious contrivance, worked by water-pressure, is 
a mechanical theatre, with 154 movable figures, 
representing a town in the full bustle of daily life. 

From Salzburg, a beautiful drive leads to the 
K5nigssee, and we were well repaid by tarrying 
on the way to visit the government salt mine at 
Batrichgarden. Here after assuming appropriate 
costumes we entered the mine and penetrated 
through the salt tunnels for half a mile ; then sit- 
ting astride a slide were shot with great velocity 
to a lower level where the miners were at work 
excavating in the huge rocks of salt. On reach- 
ing a lake in these subterranean regions where a 
weird reflection is cast upon wave and shore by 
myriad oil lamps, we entered a boat and crossed 
to the opposite side, where mounting a small 



1^4 A tOUR 

hand-car^ we threaded the narrow passages, and 
emerged once more into dayhght. This mine 
which is of great depth, has been worked for 250 
years, and is a monopoly of the king of Bavaria. 
Salt is not only extracted in crystallized form from 
the mine, but also by evaporation, in certain lo- 
calities water being pumped in and left standing 
for a month, when it is found to have absorbed 28 
per cent of saline matter. 

The Konigssee, a romantic lake six miles long 
and one wide, is hemmed in on all sides by moun- 
tainous rocks towering to a height of from 5,000 
to 8,000 feet, rising up so perpendicularly that 
nature has left no space for man to build and mar 
its natural beauty. Taking a small boat, rowed 
by stalwart peasant girls in bright, national cos- 
tume, we sailed its entire length, whence we 
crossed to Obersee, a smaller lake, separated from 
it by a narrow strip of land. 

Innsbruck, the capital of the Tyrol, surrounded 
on all sides by mountains 10,000 feet high, has a 
population of 17,000 and derives its name from 
the ''bruck" or bridge which crosses the river 
Inn. This is the scene of the exploits of the 
famous Tyrolean chief, Andreas Hofer. He was 
an inn-keeper noted for his honesty, eloquence, 
and piety ; and such was the influence that he 
exerted over his countrymen, that under his 
leadership the French were repeatedly driven 
from the country. After many victories, he was 



AROUND THE WORLD. 125 

elevated to the head of the government, but he 
still continued to wear his peasant's costume, and 
while occupying the palace cost the government 
only $5 per day for his personal expenses. He was 
finally betrayed by a Judas named Roff, and con- 
veyed to Mantua, where he was shot by order of 
Napoleon in 1810. 

In the Franciscan church is the tomb of Maxi- 
milian I., the principal object of attraction in 
Innsbruck. The marble sarcophagus, on which 
is the bronze effigy of the emperor, is ornamented 
with 24 bas-reliefs of Carrara marble, representing 
the most prominent events in his life, of such ex- 
quisite beauty and delicacy of workmanship, as 
to resemble fine cameos. Surrounding the monu- 
ment are 28 figures of heroic size in bronze of dis- 
tinguished personages of the house of Austria, 
and in the same church is a marble statue of An- 
dreas Hofer, beneath which repose his remains. 

In the Museum near by, are the clothes, gun, 
and decorations of this remarkable man, whose 
history is concentrated within the compass of a 
single year, but to whose memory every hill, vale, 
and pass of the Tyrol are enduring monuments. 

Among these mountains dwells an old man 
whose very original occupation deserves mention. 
Having discovered a peculiar kind of spider whose 
web is remarkably even, strong, and pliable, he 
conceived the idea of cultivating it, and util- 
izing its web. After selecting the most uniform 



126 A TOUR 

of these productions, he stretches and prepares 
them by a process known only to himself, and 
after framing so that the webs retain their trans- 
parency, they are consigned to artists, who with 
extreme delicacy of touch, paint upon them, 
usually scenes appropriate to the Tyrol; one of the 
largest of these, portraying a hunting-scene in the 
mountains, we were fortunate enough to secure. 

Continuing through the Tyrolean Alps we went 
to Brixlegg, a small village surrounded by high 
mountain peaks in the vicinity of Oberamagau, to 
witness the production of the Passion Play. The 
performance of this sacred drama was sanctioned 
by the Catholic clergy, and the services of the 
church were held at an earlier hour to enable all 
to attend. The large temporary theatre built for 
the occasion, was filled with over i,ooo religious 
and devout people, and a large number of the 
clergy. The play given on Sunday began at 9.30 
A. M. and continued, with a short intermission, 
throughout the day. The performance was a 
representation of the Life and Passion of Our 
Saviour, rendered with a most thrilling and rever- 
ential realism; its 18 acts alternated by tableaux 
of scenes from the Old Testament. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 12/ 



CHAPTER XI. 

MUNICH: CONSTANCE: SCHAFFHAUSEN : ZURICH: LU- 
CERNE: LAKE lucerne: RIGI : SACHSELN : GIES- 
BACH FALLS : INTERLACHEN : BERN : FRIBOURG : 
LAKE OF GENEVA : GENEVA. 

Munich, the capital of Bavaria, is on the river 
Isar, with a population of 230,000. It is mostly 
of modern architecture, and its principal thor- 
oughfares are adorned with numerous statues. It is 
celebrated for its extensive collection of fine paint- 
ings, its bronze foundry, its stained-glass factory, 
and its excellent beer. 

Most of the fine bronzes of the world come 
from Munich, one of the largest is the figure of 
Bavaria represented in the form of a colossal 
woman. It is 100 feet high, and within it is a 
spiral staircase which ascends to the interior of the 
head where eight persons can be comfortably 
seated at once. This statue was cast in the Royal 
Bronze Foundry, in 1850, by Miller, and was 
made of y^ tons of the metal of captured cannon. 
Here we saw another colossal female figure of 
Germania in course of construction, destined for 
the banks of the Rhine. 



128 A TOUR 

The principal statues in the pubHc places of 
the city are those of Maximilian I. on his throne, 
Ludwig I. on horseback, Maximilian II. sur- 
rounded by figures of Justice, Peace, Science, and 
Power ; and over the Gate of Victory, Bavaria is 
represented in a chariot drawn by four lions. 

In the Royal Palace, the main apartments are 
the throne room in which stand twelve colossal 
bronze-gilt figures of the princes of the house of 
Bavaria, from Otho the Illustrious, 1253, to 
Charles XII. of Sweden, and the bedroom of 
Charles VII. containing the magnificent couch 
of that monarch, the hangings of which, richly 
embroidered in gold, employed the labor of 40 
persons for 1 5 years, and are valued at $400,000. 
Among the relics in the Royal Chapel, are a frag- 
ment from the flagellation column; one of the 
stones cast at the Saviour; the skull of John the 
Baptist, and the prie-dieu carried for Mary Stuart 
to her execution. 

The Palace Treasury contains several crowns 
and many fine jewels, among the latter of which 
is the largest blue diamond in existence, set 
in the order of the Golden Fleece; and a mini- 
ature equestrian statue of St. George and the 
Dragon, of gold and white enamel thickly set with 
diamonds and rubies, is a most exquisite piece of 
workmanship. 

The Royal Library is next in extent to the 
largest in the world. In it is a collection of 



AROUND THE WORLD. 1 29 

10,000 Greek and Roman coins, besides tablets of 
wax of the 15th century; the Gospels, written in 
gold, on purple vellum, of the 9th century ; and 
an Egyptian document, dating 400 years B. C, 
which was found in a tomb, and said to have been 
bestowed by a priest upon the deceased, as a pass- 
port to heaven. 

The National Museum, whose wall's are orna- 
mented with 143 frescoes, illustrating the history 
of Bavaria, has among its objects of interest 
tapestries from the earliest periods of manufac- 
ture to the present perfect productions of the 
Gobelins; arms used previous to the Christian era, 
and every variety of instrument of torture, inclu- 
ding the stocks, rack, cat o' nine tails, screws, 
weights, cages, and spiked chairs and barrels. 

In the Gallery of Sculpture are the statues of 
Alexander the Great, and the Barberini Faun, or 
Sleeping Satyr, said to have been thrown from 
the top of a wall by the Romans, when defending 
themselves against the Goths. 

The Old Pinacotheca, or picture gallery, con- 
tains 1,400 paintings by old masters, among which 
are Rubens' celebrated Rape of the Sabines, and 
several gems by Murillo, of Itahan beggar 
children. 

The New Pinacotheca has a fine collection of 
paintings on porcelain, and pictures by modern 
artists, among which are the Destruction of Jeru- 
salem, by Kaulbach; the Deluge, by Karl Schorn; 



130 A TOUR 

and Thursnelda, in the triumphal train of Ger- 
manicus, by Piloty. 

In the Maximilianeum are thirty of the largest 
and finest modern paintings, the most notable 
being, Mohammed entering Mecca, by Miiller; 
the Building of the Pyramids, by Richter ; and 
the Destruction of Carthage, by Conrader. 

In connection with the cemetery of Munich is 
the Lichtenhaus, or home of the dead, a building 
where all bodies, irrespective of rank or wealth, 
are kept for three days before burial, as a precau- 
tion against premature interment. As soon as 
the coffins of the deceased are brought here, the 
bodies are removed and laid on marble slabs, 
with a wire attached to the right forefinger, which 
communicates with an electric bell, numbered, in 
the watch-room adjoining, where an attendant 
keeps constant vigil. 

Constance, an ancient city of the Duchy of 
Baden, situated on Lake Constance, is interesting 
from its association with John Huss. In the 
Grand Hall were held the sittings of the famous 
council of 1414-18, which was composed of 400 
of the magnates of Europe, the Pope, cardinals, 
bishops and archbishops, and presided over by 
the Emperor Sigismund. They disposed of the 
schisms in the Church, elected Martin V., and 
condemned John Huss and Jerome of Prague to 
be burnt at the stake. 

In the Miinster Cathedral is shown the place 



AROUND THE WORLD. I3I 

where Huss stood while receiving sentence from 
Bishop Hallam, and a mile distant is a large, ivy- 
covered stone, with an inscription to the effect 
that John Huss was burnt here July 6th, 1415. 

Schaffhausen, a small village in Switzerland, 
two miles from Neuhausen, is charmingly located 
on the Rhine, with a view of the snow-capped 
Alpine range in the distance, and the Falls of the 
Rhine below, which, though less grand than those 
of Niagara, are more picturesque. In the midst 
of the falls is a high rock, which has been tun- 
nelled through by the force of the Vv^ater. This 
rock is approached by the venturesome, in a 
small boat through the rapids, and climbed to its 
summit for a finer view of the falls. On the east 
side of the river is the old castle of Laufen over- 
hanging the falls, and here a camera obscura 
gives a miniature picture of the cataract and sur- 
rounding country. 

Zurich, on a lake of the same name, is noted 
as being the scene of the beginning of the Ref- 
ormation in Switzerland, and the home of the 
celebrated physiognomist, Lavater. In the cathe- 
dral here Zwingli, the reformer, denounced the 
errors of the Church of Rome, and enforced the 
doctrine of the Reformation. 

The Museum, among other relics, contains the 
helmet, sword and banner of Zwingli, and the 
cross-bow of Wilham Tell, with which he shot the 
apple from the head of his son. 



132 



From Zurich to Lucerne, the rail passes 
through Zug, on the banks of the pretty little 
lake of Zug. 

Lucerne, on the lake of the same name, is the 
capital of the Canton, and has a population of 
15,000. It is still surrounded by its old walls, 
with numerous and picturesque watch-towers, and 
is noted for the exquisite beauty and grandeur of 
the surrounding scenery, the lake of Lucerne hav- 
ing, from time immemorial, been acknowledged 
the most beautiful of the Swiss lakes. The prin- 
cipal attraction of the town itself is the Lion of 
Lucerne, a monument dedicated to the officers 
and soldiers who died in Paris in 1792, defending 
Louis XVI. It is of colossal size, cut in the solid 
rock. Under the lion's paw is a fleur-de-lis, 
which he is endeavoring to protect with his latest 
breath, the life-blood oozing from a spear-wound 
in his side. 

Taking the steamer, we traversed the lake 
revelling in its exquisite scenery, and landed at 
the small village of Altdorf, in the centre square 
of which is a fountain surmounted by the figure 
of Gessler, marking the spot where the Austrian 
governor caused his hat to be hung as an object 
of reverence to the people, and near by is the 
spot where Tell's son stood, while his father, in 
obedience to the mandate of the cruel tyrant, gave 
evidence of his wonderful marksmanship. Six 
miles distant, over a most beautiful and romantic 



Around the world. 133 

carriage-road, skirting the lake, and in many 
places cut through the solid rock, is the chapel of 
William Tell, the Mecca of all Switzerland. It 
was here the hero sprang from the boat and made 
his escape, after having been unfettered, in order 
that he might be enabled to row Gessler through 
a storm which had suddenly arisen on the lake. 

From Vitznau we ascended by means of an 
inclined railroad to the top of Mount Rigi, which 
is 6,000 feet high, and overlooks Lucerne. From 
its summit one looks down upon the grandest 
panorama conceivable, the snow-capped peaks of 
the Alpine range, outlined against the blue hori- 
zon, eleven lakes nestling amid the foliage at their 
base, with here and there tiny villages clustered 
on the banks. The sunset and sunrise, seen 
from the top of the Rigi, is a sight we will not be 
apt to forget. Just above the horizon the orb 
appeared like a great ball of rayless fire, tinting 
cloud and mountain peak with gorgeous coloring, 
creeping softly down to arouse the sleeping scene 
beneath, and gradually dispelling the mist mid- 
way, which rolled at our feet like the billows of a 
vast grey sea. 

From Lucerne, we crossed the lake to Alp- 
nach, and there took carriage over the beautiful 
and picturesque Brunig Pass, stopping en route 
at the village of Sachseln, on Lake Sarnen, in 
whose small church are the remains of St. Nicholas, 
the Santa Claus of universal childhood, who ac- 



134 A TOUR 

cually lived here, and is the patron saint of this 
section. A portrait represents him as tall, 
slender and serious, and altogether the reverse of 
his traditionary picture According to the leg- 
end, the saint was the father of ten children, and 
deserted them for a hermit's life in the mountains, 
a portrayal of character differing as widely from 
the original of our childhood's fancy as does his 
pictured semblance. 

Behind the high altar, and above it, concealed 
by a movable metal screen raised by means of 
machinery, is the skeleton of St. Nicholas kneeling 
in prayer, his cloak about him, in death as in life; 
in the sockets of his eyes are immense diamonds, 
on his bony fingers are many rings, and on every 
rib numbers of precious stones. 

A few miles further on the road is the village 
of Gyswyl, half swept away in 1629 by a fearful 
torrent from the Larribach, which formed a lake 
that lasted 120 years, until the inhabitants dug a 
tunnel and drained off its waters. 

Leaving our carriage at Brienz, we crossed the 
lake to the Giesbach Falls, one of the loveliest in 
Switzerland. They consist of a succession of 
seven cascades, embowered in foliage, leaping from 
a height of 1,100 feet, and finally losing them- 
selves in the waters of the lake. Tne scene is 
illuminated at night, during certain seasons, by 
colored Bengal lights, which produces an effect of 
fairy enchantment. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 1 35 

Interlachen, so called from its situation be- 
tween two lakes, Brienz and Thun, is surrounded 
by high mountain peaks, and is the great nucleus 
from which excursions are made to neighboring 
points of interest. The principal one of these is 
to Grindelwald, 1 5 miles by carriage, at the base of 
the Wetterhorn. Here we took horses to visit the 
immense glacier which lies between Mounts Eiger 
and Mittelberg. This huge mass of ice is sixty miles 
in extent, and is tunnelled through a distance of 
150 yards leading to an ice grotto; here, in the 
weird, blue reflection of the crystal walls, we found 
the strangely incongruous presence of two witch- 
like crones, who, for a small coin, crooned their 
monotonous ditties to the accompaniment of their 
twanging lutes. 

The Glacier, the accumulation of time untold, 
has cut its way through the solid mountain of 
rock, five hundred feet deep, by means of what is 
called glacier mills; these are boulders moved and 
hurled around by rapid currents with such velo- 
city as in the course of time to cut immense basins 
in the rock. These excavations, besides formation 
of shell and fragments of rock showing impressions 
of vegetable petrifaction, illustrate the successive 
epochs of the globe, when the northern hemis- 
phere was buried under a mass of ice, with only 
an occasional oasis inhabited by animal life long 
since extinct. 

Another point radiating from Interlachen is 



136 A TOUR 

Lauterbrunnen, which means many fountains, and 
derives its name from the number of streams — some 
twenty in all — which fall from the high moun- 
tains into the depths of the valley below. The 
principal of these are the Falls of Staubach, drop- 
ping a distance of 1,100 feet in an unbroken line. 
The scene from below is surpassingly grand; per- 
pendicular rocks resembling giant castles with 
their glittering turrets and white-bannered walls ; 
towering above these the Jungfraii, the Monch, 
and the Eiger, some 13,000 feet high, losing their 
hoary heads in the eternal clouds. 

Bern, the capital of Switzerland, is on the 
river Aar, with a population of 36,000. The 
town is old and quaint, with narrow streets, min- 
iature and grotesque figures surmounting its 
fountains, and sidewalks under the projections of 
the second stories of the houses. Bern takes its 
name from baren the German for bear an animal 
which the aboriginal tribes formerly worshipped. 
The chief sight of this city is the bear pit, a gov- 
ernment institution, where a number of these 
animals are kept for the amusement of the public. 

Fribourg is noted for its fine Suspension 
bridge, and its Cathedral, over the entrance of 
which is an alto-relievo, in stone, of the Last 
Judgment ; the devil is here represented weighing 
down the balance on the side of the righteous, in 
order that Justice may add a preponderance in 
the opposite scale. Within the sacred edifice is 



AROUND THE WORLD. I37 

an organ noted for the purity and strength of its 
compass. 

Lake Geneva — or Leman — is the largest of 
the Swiss lakes, being 55 miles long and from 2 
to 9 in width. Its waters are clear, and of a 
beautiful deep blue, its banks, bordered with the 
high mountain range of Savoy on one side, con- 
trasting strongly with the vine-covered slopes of 
the opposite shore. 

Midway up the lake is Lausanne, on an eleva- 
tion which commands a fine view. Further on is 
Vevay embosomed in vineyards ; and at the 
eastern extremity is Montreux, noted for its mild 
climate, and as the scene of Rousseau's '' Nou- 
velle Heloise." Near by on a small island is the 
celebrated Castle of Chillon, which Byron's poem 
has immortalized. Here Bonnivard was confined 
for six years ; the chain which bound him to the 
stone pillar of his donjon, being still in its 
place. 

*' Lake Leman lies by Chillon's walls ; 
A thousand feet in depth below 
Its massy waters meet and flow ; 



Below the surface of the lake 
The dark vault lies." 



From Montreux we embarked by steamer for 
Geneva at the opposite extremity of this romantic 
lake. 



138 A TOUR 

Geneva sits enthroned a queen on the shore 
of this beautiful sheet of water. The city is di- 
vided by the river Rhone which is spanned by 
some of the finest bridges in Europe. On a 
small island in the river is a bronze monument to 
Jean-Jacques Rousseau, who was a native of 
Geneva ; and there is also to be seen an elabo- 
rately designed monument to the Duke of Bruns- 
wick, who left his entire fortune to this city- 
Geneva is celebrated for its manufacture of 
watches, gold ornaments, and exquisite wood- 
carvings. Among the many places of interest 
one should not fail to visit are, the Cathedral in 
which Calvin preached for thirty years ; the villa 
of Lord Byron ; Ferney, the residence of Vol- 
taire ; and the chateau and grave of Madame de 
Stael. It was in this chateau she held her intel- 
lectual court where Shelley and Byron were wont 
to join the brilliant galaxy that surrounded her. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 139 



CHAPTER XII. 

CHAMOUNI : MER I)E GLACE : TETE NOIR : GORGE OF 
TRIENT : SIMPLON PASS : STRESSA : - LAKE MAG- 
GIORE : LAKE LUGANO : BELLAGIO : LAKE COMO : 
COMO : ST. GOTHARD TUNNEL : BASLE. 

Chamouni, a small village in Savoy, is at the 
foot of Mont Blanc, three thousand feet above the 
level of the sea. It was here, among her native 
mountains, that the familiar strains of her village 
airs lured poor Linda's wandering feet to peace 
and rest. 

In the village we found mules and guides, and 
climbing the mountains over a narrow, precipitous 
trail, reached Montanvert. Here we dismounted, 
and securing the services of an additional guide, 
proceeded on foot to cross the Mer-de-Glace — or 
Sea of Ice. 

We had not gone far when a blinding 
snow-storm overtook us, which added to the 
perils of our undertaking ; underfoot a sea of ice, 
its surface broken by innumerable crevices, 300 
feet in depth, yawning to engulf us at every step ; 
around us an impenetrable shroud of mist and 
snow; above, fathomless, illimitable space. For 
over two hours we groped our uncertain way 



140 A TOtJk 

across this trackless waste of frozen waters, and 
at last reached the opposite shore. Here we de- 
scended a series of steps called the Mauvais Pas, 
roughly hewn on the side of an almost perpen- 
dicular rock from whose eminence we could look 
down thousands of feet beneath us. 

At the Chapeau, a mountain station, we 
found our mules awaiting to convey us to the 
valley below. 

By private conveyance we passed through the 
romantic vale of Chamouni ; over the Tete Noire, 
a wild and rugged mountain pass ; and descending 
into the valley of the Rhone, arrived at the Gorge 
of Trient. This is a stupendous rent in the rock, 
six hundred feet in height, and extending a dis- 
tance of several miles ; at the base of the chasm 
flows a rapid torrent emanating from distant 
glaciers, which rushes madly on its way, boiling 
and seething, over boulders and jutting crags that 
intercept its course. 

Leaving Brieg by diligence, we crossed the 
Alps by the Simplon Pass over the military road 
made by Bonaparte for the passage of his troops. 
Arriving at the Fifth Refuge, one of the stations 
instituted as places of shelter for the wayfarer, we 
exchanged our carriage for a sleigh, as recent 
snow-storms had rendered the roads otherwise im- 
passable. For a distance of 20 miles we traversed 
vast plains of snow, and penetrated deep chasms 
cut through fallen avalanches, then resuming our 



AROUND THE WORLD. I41 

former mode of conveyance, began the descent 
through the Gorge of Gondo — awful in its sub- 
Hmity — and emerging from rocky tunnels, amid 
scenes of wild and rugged grandeur, we were sud- 
denly transferred into the vine-clad slopes and 
balmy air of sunny Italy. 

Stressa, on Lake Maggiore, is situated just 
opposite the Borromean Islands, the property of 
Count Borromeo. On Isola Bella, the most beau- 
tiful of these little islands, is his palace : the bare 
rock having been metamorphosed into a scene of 
enchantment. This fairy creation is a series of 
ten terraces adorned with statues, obelisks, and 
vases, and here in sight of Alpine snows, tropical 
flowers bloom, and tea, indigo, citron, and mag- 
nolia thrive luxuriantly. 

Sailing through Lake Maggiore, and then tak- 
ing a carriage, we drove over a delightful road to 
Lugano, a small village nestling on the banks of 
the lake under the beetling shadow of Mt. St. 
Salvador. After a short sojourn here, we sailed 
through Lugano, the smallest and one of the 
prettiest of the Italian lakes, and continued our 
journey to Bellagio on the banks of Lake Como. 

Bellagio, on a small peninsula formed by the 
three arms of Lake Como, commands from its 
eminence views of unsurpassed beauty, but a more 
extended range is obtained from the villa Serbel- 
loni, on the heights above. Embowered in a rich 
luxuriance of tropical growth, this pretty little 



142 A TOUR 

villa is almost concealed from view, but from its 
secluded elevation are obtained glimpses of the 
panorama of mountain and lake so vividly por- 
trayed by Claude Melnotte : '' A deep vale shut 
in by Alpine hills from the rude world, near a 
clear lake margined by fruits of gold and whisper- 
ing myrtles." 

Lake Como, 30 miles long and 2)^ wide, is 
set like a precious gem in the midst of ever-green 
hills ; along its shores are picturesque villas, and 
romantic ruins, standing out from a dark back- 
ground of foliage ; here the Villa d'Este, the fair 
casket that once enshrined Tasso's beautiful Leo- 
nora, and later the peaceful refuge of the unhappy 
Caroline of Brunswick ; there, the Villa Taglioni, 
the lovely home of the famous danseuse^ and 
again the Villa Carlotta, filled with the master- 
pieces of Canova and Thorwaldsen. 

Como, at the southern extremity of the lake, 
has a population of 25,000, and is defended by 
double walls and environed by hills. The city 
has four gates, one of which leads to Milan and is 
a grand specimen of architectural beauty. Li 
front of the Cathedral are statues of the elder and 
younger Pliny, the latter having been born here 
A. D. 62. 

Taking rail from Como to Basle the road 
passes through the finest of the Italian and Swiss 
scenery, skirts Lakes Como, Lugano, Lucerne, 
Zug, and Zurich, and enters the Alps through the 



AROUND THE WORLD. I43 

St. Gothard Tunnel. This, the most wonderful 
piece of engineering in the world, penetrates the 
mountain like a cork-screw, making four complete 
loops within a distance of twenty miles in order to 
attain the requisite elevation, when it emerges 
into daylight only to enter again the main tunnel 
which is nine miles in length. On the opposite 
side the road winds around cliffs, through rocky 
gorges, and crosses chasms of fearful depth, pre- 
senting a scene of surpassing grandeur. 



CHAPTER XIIL 

FREIBURG : STRASBURG : BADEN BADEN : HEIDELBERG : 
FRANKFORT : MAYENCE : THE RHINE : COLOGNE : AIX- 
LA-CHAPELLE : METZ : RHEIMS : DIJON : MACON : 
LYONS. 

From Basle to Freiburg where in the latter city 
is a monument to Berthold Swartz, the monk 
who, it is claimed, in 1320, invented gunpowder, 
the rail follows the Rhine, and skirts the Black 
Forest so intimately associated with the legends 
of Germany. 

Strasburg, the principal city of the German 
provinces of Alsace and Loraine, has a population 
of 105,000 and is noted chiefly for its wonderful 
clock, and its manufacture of pates-de-foie-gras ; 



144 A TOUR 

this well-known delicacy is composed of geese- 
livers unnaturally enlarged by a process of ex- 
cessive feeding. A singular sight is that of the 
great storks standing beside, or building their 
nests on the chimneys of many housetops. It 
was in Strasburg that Guttenberg first used type, 
and gave to the world one of the most useful 
of inventions. 

The city, while in possession of the French, was 
bombarded by the Prussians, in August and Sep- 
tember, 1 87 1, from Kehl, the batteries being 
placed out of sight of the French, and under the 
direction of an officer stationed on a high steeple, 
who communicated by telegraph to the distant 
trenches. 

The Cathedral which has a spire 470 feet in 
height, the highest in the world, contains the cele- 
brated astronomical clock made by Schwilgue in 
1 838- 1 842 to replace a similar one of great an- 
tiquity. At the hour of 12 the cock crows, the 
twelve apostles appear, and other puppets are set 
in motion. 

In the Church of St. Thomas is a fine monu- 
ment to Marshal Saxe, and in glass cases are the 
bodies of the Duke of Nassau and his daughter, 
preserved for 400 years. 

Baden-Baden, the famous German watering- 
place, is in a valley on the northern extremity of the 
Black Forest. Along the banks of the river Oos 
are shaded avenues for public resort, leading to 



AROUND THE WORLD. 145 

the Trinkhalle whose waters are sought by in- 
valids afifected with gout and rheumatism, and to 
the Conversations Haus formerly the gambling 
hall, but now a place of rendezvous, where people 
meet to chat and drink beer, while listening to 
strains of music discoursed by a fine band outside. 

A most delightful excursion from Baden- 
Baden is, by carriage, to the Merkur Tower, situ- 
ated on the mountain top in the midst of the 
Black Forest, from which is obtained an extended 
view of the forest and adjacent mountains. En 
route one passes the New Castle founded 1,100 
years ago, at present the summer residence of the 
Grand Duke, the picturesque ruins of an old 
Roman castle, and further on the fantastic Felsen, 
or rocks, in form somewhat resembling pulpits, 
where legend avers an angel once discoursed from 
one of them, the devil from the other ; which of 
the two succeeded in obtaining the greater num- 
ber of disciples, tradition revealeth not. 

Heidelberg, so celebrated for its Castle and 
University, is situated on the Neckar, and has a 
population of 25,000. The Castle is on an eleva- 
tion commanding a fine view of town and river ; 
it is partly a ruin, half palace and half fortress, and 
is surrounded by charming grounds. In its cellar is 
shown the great Heidelberg Tun, with a capacity 
equivalent to the measure of 283,000 bottles of 
wine : in order to realize the size of this monster 
cask, one must climb to its top, by means of a 

10 



146 A TOUR 

ladder, and standing upon its broad surface look 
downward to the stone floor beneath. In the 
same room is a wooden effigy of the court fool 
Porkes, wdio never went to bed sober, his mod- 
erate allowance being 18 bottles /^r diem. 

The Church of the Holy Ghost is an old and 
quaint structure, and is divided by a partition 
through the middle, which separates the Protest- 
ant from the Catholic services, held under the 
same roof. 

On the opposite side of the river from Heidel- 
berg is a building where, once a week, the stu- 
dents repair to settle their quarrels by means of 
duels fought with swords. These duels are as 
much an institution of the University as is the 
scholastic course, and ^^ honorable scars " thus ob- 
tained are the object of the students' fondest am- 
bition. In order that these wounds may be worn 
in open view upon the face, the body is protected 
by padding, while the eyes are shielded by iron 
goggles ; a surgeon is, of course, in attendance, 
whose duty it is to prevent the combat from re- 
sulting seriously. 

Frankfort-on-the-Maine, with a population of 
138,000, was formerly a free city of Germany, but 
was annexed to the Kingdom of Prussia, October 
8th, 1866. It is a very ancient city, having in 
794 been the residence of Charlemagne. At 
present it is chiefly noted for its large banking 
houses, and the great wealth of its citizens ; it is 



AROUND THE WORLD. I47 

the native place of the original Rothschild, the 
house in Jew street still standing where the fa- 
mous banker was born. The present Baron 
Rothschild is the king of bankers, and the banker 
of kings. The principal public monuments are 
those of Guttenberg, Schiller, and Goethe, the 
latter being born here August 28th, 1749. In a 
private villa is a statue of faultless marble, by 
Danneker, representing Ariadne seated on a tiger 
— one of the most perfect productions of modern 
art. 

The Rhine ranks first among European rivers 
in variety and beauty of scenery, and in the his- 
torical associations and traditional reminiscences 
which haunt its shores. From Mayence to Co- 
logne it winds with rapid current among high hills 
crowned with ruined castles, the river's sloping 
banks covered with luxuriant vineyards. On the 
right bank is the Castle of Johannisberg sur- 
rounded by the vines which produce the most 
celebrated of the Rhine wines distinguished for 
their delicate bouquet. Beyond, are the vine- 
yards of Steinberg and Rudesheim, from the 
former of which is obtained wine noted for its 
body, warmth, and peculiar aroma, while from 
the latter, planted as far back as the reign of 
Charlemagne, is produced a wine which, although 
less expensive, is almost equal in quality to the 
Steinberg. 

Bingen on the Rhine is best known from the 



148 A TOUR 

beautiful poem bearing that title: opposite is 
the ruin of Bishop Hatto's Castle of Ehrenfels, and 
on an island in the river is the Mouse Tower 
where the wicked Bishop sought refuge when 
pursued by the rats. Besides these points of in- 
terest are, the Castle of Rheinstein, where is 
buried Prince Frederick of Prussia; Pfalz, where 
Louis le Debonnaire retired, weary of the cares of 
empire, to end his days on a barren rock in the 
river; the Lorelei Rock where the syren sat and 
sang, and combed her golden locks, luring the en- 
tranced boatmen to destruction ; the Castle and 
Fortress of Reinfels, an imposing ruin ; the Castle 
of the Two Brothers whose unnatural love for 
their beautiful sister culminated in a fatal combat ; 
the Castle Stolzenfels, the property of the King 
of Prussia ; the Fort of Ehrenbreitstein, opposite 
Coblentz, so strongly fortified that it is styled the 
Gibraltar of Germany ; Brohl, a small village, 
celebrated for its tufa stone used by the Romans 
for coffins on account of its property of absorp- 
tion, and from which is derived the name of 
sarcophagus — or flesh consumer ; the Castle of 
Rolandseck, built by Roland, a nephew of Charle- 
magne, that he might overlook the convent to 
which his bride had retired from the world ; and 
Drachenfels, commandingly situated on the high- 
est hill-top, once the fortress and watch-tower of 
the robbers of the Rhine. 

Cologne, the capital of the province, and the 



AROUND THE WORLD. 149 

third city of importance in the empire, has a pop- 
ulation of 145,000. It is as celebrated for its 
filthy streets and bad odors, as for the superior 
article of cologne-water manufactured here by 
the Farina firm. In its public squares are bronze 
statues of Frederick William III., Frederick Wil- 
liam IV., and the present Emperor William. 

The Cathedral, a magnificent specimen of 
Gothic architecture, was commenced in 1248 and 
only completed in 1880. Behind the high altar 
is the Chapel of the Magi, or three kings, who 
came from the East to worship, and bring offer- 
ings to the Infant Christ ; the remains of these 
three wise men — Caspar, Melchior, and Bal- 
thasar, are, here inclosed in a casket of solid gold, 
studded with precious stones, (valued at $2,000,- 
000), their skulls, which are exposed to view, 
bearing crowns of diamonds. In the church 
treasury are three links of the chain with which 
St. Peter was bound, and a bone of St. Matthew, 
and in the aisle is a plain slab covering the heart 
of Marie de Medici. 

In St. Peter's church is the font where Ru- 
bens, a native of Cologne, was baptized ; and here 
also is his celebrated painting of St. Peter's cruci- 
fixion, head downwards — considered by himself 
his chef d'oeiivre. 

The Church of St. Ursula enshrines the bones 
of that saint, with those of her 11,000 virgins, 
who w^ere murdered on this spot by the Huns in 



150 A TOUR 

450 A. D. on account of their refusal to break 
their vows of chastity; the walls of the church 
are covered with their ghastly relics, arranged 
in hideous display. Another of its treasures is 
one of the six porphyry jars, which it is claimed, 
was the means used by the Saviour in the per- 
formance of His first miracle of changing water 
into wine, at the marriage feast of Cana. 

Aix-la-Chapelle is celebrated as having for- 
merly been the city where the earlier sovereigns 
of France and Germany were crowned ; it is noted 
for its highly medicinal waters and received its 
name from the chapel erected by Charlemagne 
for his place of sepulture. 

The present Cathedral which adjoins the 
chapel, is one of the oldest in Europe, and is un- 
surpassed in the value of the relics it contains, 
which were presented to Charlemagne by the 
Grand Patriarch of Jerusalem. These consist of 
the white gown of the Virgin; the swathing clothes 
of the Infant Christ; a cloth on which lay the body 
of John the Baptist ; the leathern girdle of Jesus ; 
part of the rope with which He was bound ; one 
of the nails that fastened Him to the Cross ; a 
fragment of the reed with which they mocked 
Him; bones of the twelve apostles; and the pulpit 
from which St. Bernard preached the second cru- 
sade. Here, encased in a golden cof?in, are the 
remains of Charlemagne ; and also the marble 
coronation chair in which he was found, sitting 



AROUND THE WORLD. 15I 

erect, with the crown, sceptre, and orb of his im- 
perial state, when his tomb was opened by Otho 
III., in 997. This same chair, crown, orb, and 
sceptre, were used at the coronation of successive 
emperors of Germany, for centuries afterward. 

The Rath-haus stands on the site of the 
palace where Charlemagne was born, 742 ; and 
contains an ancient hall beautifully frescoed with 
scenes from the emperor's life, and another, 
called the Great Hall, used for the coronation 
ceremonies of emperors, for the assemblage of the 
Diets, and for other important celebrations. In 
this hall is a magnificent stained-glass window 
representing a life-size portrait of the present Em- 
peror, William I. 

From Aix-la-Chapelle to Metz the rail fol- 
lows, part of the way, the Moselle river, whose 
scenery much resembles that of the Rhine ; and 
from this district is produced the famous Moselle 
wine. 

Metz, on the Moselle river, with a population 
of 54,000 is one of the most strongly fortified 
towns in Europe. Four miles distant the battles 
of Vionville and Gravelotte were fought August 
1 6th and i8th, 1870. Metz has always borne the 
name of the Virgin Fortress, and can easily be 
defended against six times the number of its gar- 
rison ; but on the 27th of October, 1870, the 
whole French army under Marshal Bazaine, cap- 
itulated ; and 3 marshals, 66 generals, 6,000 of- 



152 A TOUR 

ficers, and 173,000 troops surrendered themselves 
prisoners of war to the Germans. 

From Metz to Rheims we traversed the great 
Champagne district, stopping at Epernay, where 
are the extensive cellars of Moet and Chandon. 

The ancient city of Rheims is noted not only 
for its world-renowned wines of Champagne, but 
for its having been the city where have been 
crowned nearly all the kings of France since 
Philip Augustus. It was here that the virgin 
hand of Joan of Arc caused the crown of reunited 
France to be placed on the head of Charles 
VII. 

In Rheims are the celebrated champagne 
vaults of T. Roederer & Co. These excavations, 
which extend half a mile underground to the 
depth of 120 feet, are cut out of the solid rock; 
and were once stone quarries which yielded a 
white, chalk-like substance hardening on being 
exposed to the air. 

Traversing the Burgundy district, we stopped 
at Dijon and Macon, the exporting centre of the 
Burgundy wines. The strength and flavor of 
these wines is partly owing to the soil on which 
the grape is grown — a reddish strata of earth 
overlaying a white chalky rock. The wine is 
both red and white in color, of a heavy body, 
and far superior to the ordinary claret wines ; but 
very little of the finer qualities are exported, the 
French preferring to retain this their favorite bev- 



AROUND THE WORLD. 1 53 

erage in their own country even at the high rates 
demanded for it. 

Lyons at the confluence of the Rhone and 
Saone, has a population of 343,000. It is the 
second city in France in point of size and popula- 
tion, and is the centre of extensive manufactures. 
It is of great antiquity, having been the capital of 
Celtic Gaul, and in modern times had its share in 
the great revolution, and was the chief scene of 
the Jacobite excesses. It was here that Bulwer 
laid the first scenes of his popular play The Lady 
of Lyons. 

Lyons is the great manufacturing mart for 
silks and velvets, and although it has 30,000 
weavers of these fabrics, there are no large fac- 
tories, the work being done by small establish- 
ments, in each of which, only from eight to twelve 
men are employed. Jacquard, the inventor of 
the loom, was born here. 

A fine view of the city and suburban land- 
scape is to be obtained from the tower of the 
Church of Notre Dame on the heights of Four- 
vieres. On this height is the Hospice de I'An- 
tiqueille built on the site of the palace in which 
the Roman emperors Claudius, Germanicus, and 
Caligula were born ; and in the Museum is a 
bronze tablet on which is carved a speech which 
Claudius delivered before the Roman Senate, A. 
D. 48. Near here is the Church of St. Iranee, 
erected on the spot where Septimus Severus, in 



154 A TOUR 

the year 202 caused the massacre of 20,000 
Christians who had assembled for prayer. 

In the Hotel de Ville, the Revolutionary tri- 
bunal consisting of Couthon, Fondee, and Collot 
d'Herbois sat in council, after the siege of Lyons. 
The latter of these who was their leader, had, when 
an actor, been hissed from the stage, and mad- 
dened at the insult swore to be revenged. When 
the opportunity presented itself, he wreaked a ter- 
rible vengeance for his fancied wrongs ; the citi- 
zens were killed at the rate of 100 a day; the 
knife of the guillotine working too slowly for the 
satisfying of his cruel impatience, fifty human 
beings at a time, were tied together and shot as 
they stood, with grape and canister. After 2,000 
had been butchered in this manner, the city was 
razed to the ground. 

From Lyons we now turned our faces towards 
Paris ; where after a brief sojourn we started forth 
again on our travels, with Spain as our point of 
destination. 



AROUND THE WORLD. I55 



CHAPTER XIV. 

ORLEANS : BLOIS : TOURS : POITIERS : BORDEAUX : BAY- 
ONNE : BIARRITZ: BURGOS: VALLADOLID : MADRID: 
ESCURIAL : CORDOVA : SEVILLE : GRANADA : MAL- 
AGA : GIBRALTAR. 

Orleans one of the most ancient cities of 
France, has a population of 52,000. In 1429 this 
city was besieged by the Enghsh for six months ; 
but in the following year Joan of Arc, in full 
armor, bearing a sacred banner, entered the city 
at the head of a very small force, bringing sup- 
plies to the besieged. In opposition to the judg- 
ment of the French commanders, she crossed the 
Loire in boats, accompanied only by a chosen 
number of men, and attacked the Bastile des Tour- 
nelles. Although pierced by an arrow, she waved 
her banner, scaled the walls and carried the fort. 
Hence her name of Maid of Orleans. 

The city has a fine Cathedral, and an eques- 
trian statue of Joan of Arc. 

Blois on the river Loire, was the native city 
of Louis XII., Peter the Divine, and Papin, in- 
ventor of the steam engine. The old castle over- 
looking the river, was once the palace of Francis 
I., and of Charles IX. In it is a room where 



156 A Tour 

Catherine de Medici consulted the stars and con- 
cocted her most diabolical plots; foremost among 
these was the cold-blooded murder of the Duke 
of Guise ; when, at her instigation, her son 
Henry III. placed daggers in the hands of his at- 
tendants to stab him as he entered the chamber. 

Napoleon I. dated his last imperial decree at 
Blois to which place he had previously dispatched 
the empress with the young king of Rome and 
the remnant of his court 

Tours, the principal city of Touraine, has a 
population of 48,000. It was near here, in 732, 
that the battle took place between the Christians 
under Charles Martel and the Mohammedans 
under Abder Rahman, which resulted in the 
death-blow to the Koran in the West. 

Poitiers is chiefly noted as having given the 
name to the famous battle fought near by, be- 
tween King John and the Black Prince, which 
resulted in the defeat and captivity of the former. 

Bordeaux the second sea-port town of France, 
is on the Garonne, 60 miles from its mouth, and 
has a population of 216,000. It has a quay 3 
miles long, surpassed by few in Europe. The 
city is particularly celebrated for its extensive 
trade in claret wine, of which it exports large 
quantities to foreign ports. Among its most re- 
markable edifices are the ruins of an old Roman 
palace ; a fine theatre built by Louis XIV.; and 
St. Michael's Church; in a cave of the tower, are 



AROUND THE WORLD. 1 57 

a large number of wonderfully life-like bodies 
standing upright against the walls ; their preser- 
vation being attributed to the nature of the soil in 
which they had been buried 400 years before. 

Bayonne is situated at the junction of the Nive 
and Adour rivers, on the high-road to Spain; 
and is one of the most strongly fortified towns of 
France. Its citadel is considered the best work 
of Vauban the engineer. From Bayonne the 
bayonet derives its name ; it was invented in the 
17th century, originating from the incident of a 
regiment short of ammunition, defending itself 
against the Spaniards by means of long knives 
which they stuck in the barrels of their muskets. 

Biarritz on the Bay of Biscay, 8 miles from 
Bayonne, is a fashionable watering-place, and was 
a favorite resort of the Emperor Napoleon III.; 
its mild climate rendering a sojourn here attrac- 
tive during the fall and winter months. The 
shore is rugged and wild, with cliffs from thirty 
to forty feet in height. 

After crossing the Spanish frontier at Irun, 
where a most thorough search is made by the 
custom-house officials, the first city of importance 
reached is Burgos, the former capital of the king- 
dom of Castile. It is situated 3,000 feet above 
the level of the sea, and contains 30,000 inhabi- 
tants. The streets are narrow and dirty, and the 
houses high and inclosed in glass verandas. At 
intervals of 1 5 minutes throughout the night, the 



158 A TOUR 

voice of the watchman may be heard in loud tones 
announcing the hour and the state of the weather. 
The ladies still adhere to the picturesque lace 
mantilla, and the graceful fan ; while the men in- 
variably envelope themselves in the voluminous 
folds of their mantles. Before being admitted 
into a house, the stranger is first jealously scanned 
through a grating in the outer door ; a custom 
having its origin in a time of general insecurity. 
The small donkey, the only beast of burden seen 
on the streets, is often so heavily laden as to be 
scarcely observable under his bulky load. 

Burgos is celebrated as the birthplace and 
tomb of the Cid, a Moorish name meaning uncon- 
querable. This celebrated Spanish hero was a 
great warrior, whose deeds have been recorded in 
prose and verse by writers of all countries and 
periods for the last eight centuries. Even after 
his death he is said to have won a great victory ; 
his followers having secured his corpse to his fa- 
vorite horse, conducted him to the battle-field, 
where the foe, having heard of the death of the 
great leader, were appalled at sight of the ghastly 
apparition, and, conquered by their own super- 
stitious terrors, fled ignominiously from the field. 

Valladolid the ancient capital of Spain, is at 
the confluence of the Pisuerga and Esgueva rivers, 
and has a population of 52,000. It was here that 
Christopher Columbus, who gave a continent to 
the world died, — May 20th, 1506 — in a small 



AROUND THE WORLD. 1 59 

dimly-lighted room, in a narrow street of the 
poorer quarter of the town. Valladolid was the 
birthplace of Philip II. and in the Cathedral — 
one of the finest in Spain — were married, in 
1469, Ferdinand and Isabella. 

Madrid, the capital of Spain, is in the centre 
of the kingdom, in a barren, rocky plain 2,200 
feet above the level of the sea. Owing to its 
situation, the city is exposed to cold winds and 
the climate is particularly unhealthy. Madrid 
has 400,000 inhabitants and though of very an- 
cient origin, has, owing to its handsome buildings 
and wide streets, a modern appearance. The 
most conspicuous public ornaments are, the 
statues of Spain's gifted sons, Murillo the artist, 
and Cervantes the author of Don Quixote; and 
of Philip IV. on horseback surrounded by the 
early kings ; besides the fountains of Neptune and 
Sibyl. The Park, of an afternoon is thronged 
with the ehte driving out in their elegant equi- 
pages, among them that of the Royal family, in 
which is the little Infanta accompanied by her at- 
tendants. 

The Royal Palace is an immense structure 
built of granite, and covering, with its surround- 
ings, 80 acres of ground, flavored with invita- 
tions from the Palace we attended the Christening 
of the Royal Infant of Spain. The ceremony 
was performed in the Royal Chapel by a Car- 
dinal, assisted by the highest dignitaries of the 



t6o a tour 

Church ; and was attended by members of the 
Royal household and cabinet, generals of the 
army, and foreign ambassadors in full uniform, 
wearing their numerous decorations. 

In the Royal Picture Gallery are several hun- 
dred paintings, among them those of Velasquez, 
master of the Spanish school, whose best work is 
the portrait of ^sop ; here also are many of Mu- 
rillo's original works — the Conception, and the 
Infant St. John being among the finest. Of the 
productions of modern Spanish artists are, the 
Bell of Huesca, the Death of Lucrezia Borgia, 
Defending the Pass, and the Death of Seneca. 

In the Naval Museum are the compass of Co- 
lumbus and the original chart with which he 
demonstrated his discovery of a new continent. 
The armory contains the swords and coats of mail 
of Columbus, Ferdinand, and Cortez, besides those 
of Boabdil and other Moorish kings. 

The Amphitheatre where bull-fights take place 
is built of stone and brick, with a capacity for seat- 
ing 16,500 people; this barbarous entertainment 
being held Sunday afternoons from the hours of 
2 to 5. The bull-fight which we witnessed was an 
especially grand affair given in celebration of the 
birth of the Royal child. At the hour specified, 
the streets were thronged, and the vast building 
crowded to its utmost. The entertainment was 
inaugurated by a grand procession entering the 
arena, composed of all who were to take part. 



AROUND THE WORLD. l6l 

dressed in gay and fantastic costumes, glittering 
with gold and silver. After saluting the king and 
audience, two heralds advanced from among them 
and received from the governor the large iron key 
with which they proceeded to open the gates 
separating the arena from the inclosure in which 
the restive animals were confined. One at a time 
the bulls were admitted. The animal entered the 
circle, evidently bewildered at the novelty of his 
situation, and evincing no sign of his natural belli- 
cose propensity. Then came the matadores who, 
flourishing their blood-red mantles in his face, and 
launching their bandarillos — or barbed arrows — 
into his sides, soon succeeded into goading him 
into mad fury. With a low roar like the sound of 
distant thunder, the bull rushed upon his assail- 
ants, who, to escape his attack, performed mar- 
vellous feats of agility, now^ dodging from beneath 
his very horns, and again casting themselves on 
the ground in his path, that unable to make so 
sudden a halt in his mad career the animal should 
pass him by; and — more wonderful than all — 
quickly planting a spear in the ground, by its aid 
vaulting clear over the beast to the opposite side. 
Next the Picadors, or mounted men, entered 
upon the scene, bearing long spears, their sole 
mode of defence against the furious onslaught of 
the now thoroughly aroused and pain-maddened 
bull. Then the hideous interest of the spectacle 
became intensified. The wretched horses, with 

II 



1 62 A TOUR 

one eye bandaged in order that they might not be 
fully conscious of their peril, vainly essayed to 
elude the repeated attacks of the bull, flying 
wildly around the ring, their entrails protruding 
from their bleeding wounds and trailing in the 
dust as they ran. By this time the bull, having 
overcome his assailants, and being thoroughly ex- 
hausted from loss of blood, stood at bay with re- 
laxing muscles but undaunted eye, as a matador 
entered the arena for the final scene of the bar- 
barous sport — the Blow of Mercy. He ap- 
proached on foot, and armed only with a sharp 
dagger, confronted the bull, and as the animal 
lowered his head for a last attack, the daring mat- 
ador plunged the blade into his neck adroitly and 
instantaneously severing the main artery. 

On this occasion, these fearful scenes were re- 
peated until no less than six bulls and seven horses 
had been killed and several men wounded. 

The present king and queen, although much 
averse to bull-fights, are compelled to sanction 
and even yield to the requirements of custom and 
prejudice, and attend these national exhibitions. 

The Escurial, 40 miles from Madrid, is an im- 
mense granite building comprising palace, tomb, 
and convent. It is one of the wonders of Spain, 
and was built by Philip II. as a royal vault for 
kings and mothers of kings. Over the entrance 
are large statues of David, Solomon, Jehosha- 
phat, Hezekiah, Manasseh, and Josiah. The palace 



AROUND THE WORLD. 1 63 

apartments are hung with the finest of modern 
Spanish tapestry, the chapel contains pulpits of 
the most exquisite Mexican onyx, and over the 
altar is the largest round topaz in the world. The 
vault beneath, whose steps and walls are of por- 
phyry and polished stones, is of a circular form, 
the granite coffins arranged on shelves in chrono- 
logical order bearing the names of the occupants 
engraved in gilt letters, several vacant places 
awaiting the living. Outside this receptacle for 
dead royalty, but still within the church, lies all 
that remains of the young and lovely Mercedes, 
first v/ife of Alfonso, who having been denied the 
motherhood of a son, is debarred the honors of 
sepulture within the precincts of the royal 
circle. 

Cordova, with a population of 50,000, was 
once the principal city, and capital of the Moors, 
and contained at one time 1,000,000 inhabitants, 
and 300 mosques. It was the birthplace of the 
two Senecas, and of Lucan the poet. 

The Cathedral, formerly a mosque, still retains 
its Moorish style of architecture, and is exceed- 
ingly beautiful and picturesque. It has 850 pil- 
lars of jasper, porphyry, and every variety of 
marble ; the arches and ceilings are of the most 
exquisite mosaic, and everywhere are fine carv- 
ings inscribed with quotations from the Koran. 
In the south end of the edifice is the Zancarron, 
or Moorish sanctuary of octagon shape, highly 



I 64 A TOUR 

ornamented, and canopied with a scallop shell cut 
from a solid block of marble 1 5 feet in breadth. 

In Cordova is manufactured a preserve made 
from the orange-blossom — some 200 blossoms 
being required to the pound, — which is delicate 
in flavor, and grateful to the taste. The great in- 
dustry of the place is the pickling of olives ; the 
process being to soak the fruit in a brine impreg- 
nated with anise-seed and bay leaves. 

Seville, on the Guadalquivir, is claimed to 
have been founded by Hercules, captured by 
Caesar, and subsequently in 711, by the Moors. 
It was at one time the centre of science and art, 
but declined rapidly after having been conquered 
by the Christians. Seville was the birthplace of 
the Emperors Trajan and Theodosius ; also of 
Magellan the famous navigator, Las Casas the 
defender of the Indians, and Lope de Vega 
the father of Spanish comedy. It was here in 
1480 the Inquisition was established; the Square 
still existing, where the grand tribunal met, passed 
judgment, and dispatched their victims. The 
streets are crooked, and some of them barely six 
feet in width ; the Plazas are bordered with 
palm and date-trees, and the surrounding country 
is luxuriant with growth of olive and orange, cac- 
tus and aloe. 

The Alcazar or Palace, of Moslem architec- 
ture, was the residence of the Moorish and Catho- 
lic kings of Spain. On one side of the court once 



AROUND THE WORLD. 165 

stood the throne . before which were yearly 
brought one hundred of the most beautiful virgins 
of Seville, from among whom the Moorish monarch 
might select his wives. Opening from the op- 
posite side is the Hall of Ambassadors, where Don 
Pedro not only killed his own brother, but also 
the former King of Granada, Abu Said, to whom he 
had promised protection, and whom, after feasting 
and flattering, he assassinated and robbed of his 
jewels; among the latter was the heart-shaped 
ruby which he afterwards presented to the Black 
Prince, and is now conspicuous in the crown 
of England. On the floor above is the private 
chapel where Ferdinand and Isabella gave audi- 
ence to Christopher Columbus. Adjoining the 
beautiful gardens of the Palace are immense baths, 
where Maria de Padilla and her attendants dis- 
ported in the presence of the king. 

In the Cathedral are many of Murillo's finest 
works ; and a slab on the floor marks the spot 
where is buried Ferdinand son of Columbus, — 
the body of the great discoverer having been re- 
moved to Havana. Adjoining the church is a 
library containing the log-book of Columbus, with 
charts indicating his route and the distance trav- 
elled each day ; also a history of the world with 
his marginal notes and corrections. 

In the Bourse, or Exchange, are the archives 
of Spanish South America, with the correspond- 
ence of Cortez and Pizarro. 



1 66 A TOUR 

Among other places are, the studio, and 
house where Murillo died ; that called the House 
of Pontius Pilate, — a fac-simile of the one in Jeru- 
salem; and the home of Figaro, the barber of Sev- 
ille, the scene and subject of one of the prettiest 
of modern operas. 

At the Escuela de Bailes, or Dance-hall, we 
witnessed the Spanish Fandango danced in all its 
originality and boldness. 

Granada is in a beautiful plain on the banks of 
the Darro near the snow-capped range of the 
Sierra Nevada. Its present population is 76,000, 
not one-tenth of what it was when taken from the 
Moors by Ferdinand and Isabella. 

The Alhambra, or acropolis of Granada, is on 
the top of a high hill overlooking the city. It 
was built 600 years ago by the Moors ; is sur- 
rounded by walls and towers, and was at one 
time capable of accommodating 40,000 soldiers. 
This palace was to them a terrestrial paradise, and 
it was here they made their last stand for empire 
in Spain. Though somewhat faded and damaged 
by the ravages of time and war, it still retains 
much of its former grandeur; and resembles 
more an abode fitted for fabled queens of Love 
and Beauty, than a human habitation. Its ceil- 
ings are of honey-combed stalactite, of blue, red, 
and gold, and inlaid with mother-of-pearl ; the 
walls of stucco resemble fine lace-work of various 
intricate designs inscribed with quotations from 



AROUND THE WORLD. 1 6/ 

the Koran ; and the floors and columns are of ala- 
baster and marble. The most beautiful and in- 
teresting apartments of the palace are, the Hall of 
Ambassadors where Ferdinand and Isabella re- 
ceived Columbus, prior to his departure for the 
great voyage of discovery ; beneath it, the dun- 
geon, and the balcony from which ,Boabdil when 
a child was lowered in a basket, by his mother, 
and sent beyond reach of his cruel father; the 
Repose Room where the Sultan rested with his 
Sultana after the bath, listening to strains of music 
from the balconies above ; the Toilet-room, in one 
corner of which is a perforated marble slab in the 
floor, over whose ascending perfumes the Sultana 
stood while her attendants ministered to her toilet ; 
the Hall of Tw^o Sisters, whence the royal couple is- 
sued their orders; the Hall of Justice where the 
nobles received sentence ; the Court of Lions, so 
called from its fountain supported by twelve 
huge lions, surrounded by 136 marble pillars; 
and the Hall of Abencerrages where Boabdil 
killed thirty-six of the tribe of that name ; the 
marble fountain flowing with their blood. This 
massacre was caused by a report made by some 
of the rival tribe Zegri, to Boabdil, that his beau- 
tiful queen was seen in the garden in the embrace 
of the chief of the Abencerrages. The queen, 
dreading the king's vengeful wrath appealed for 
protection to four Christian knights, who came, 
disguised as Moors, vanquished the Zegri in a 



1 68 A TOUR 

hand-to-hand fight, and compelled them to con- 
fess their villainous plot in the presence of the 
king and assembled people. In the Tower of 
Comares is the room in which Washington Irving 
wrote his fine description of the Alhambra. 

The Generalife, on an adjacent hill was the 
summer palace of the Moorish kings, and in it are 
portraits of Moslem and Christian sovereigns. In 
the terraced gardens of this palace are sparkling 
fountains, and perpetual bloom of oleander, pome- 
granate, lime and orange. 

From an elevated rock called the Seat of the 
Moor, can be seen the bridge where Columbus 
was overtaken by the king's messenger, while 
he was on his way, disappointed and dejected, to 
submit his disdained projects to the Court of 
France. Near by is the point called the Last 
Sigh of the Moor, whence Boabdil looked back 
and w^ept at the city he had lost, and was re- 
proved by his mother's sarcasm : '' you do well to 
weep as a woman over what you could not defend 
as a man." 

The chief object of interest in the town itself 
is the Cathedral whose highly ornamented interior 
contains the magnificent marble tombs of Ferdi- 
nand and Isabella, and those of their daughter, 
Jane the Demented, and her husband Philip I. 

In the Treasury is the sword of Ferdinand, 
and the flag he carried at the siege of Granada : 
also Isabella's crown and sceptre, and the golden 



AROUND THE WORLD. 169 

casket which once contained the jewels she caused 
to be sold to enable Columbus to sail on his voy- 
age of discovery. 

The Convent of Cartouja, two miles from 
Granada was once the abode of an order of monks 
who were allowed to speak only once a week ; 
and if by chance they met one another they 
crossed themselves piously, with the adjuration : 
''brother we must die!" This order has been 
suppressed ; but the edifice still exists in good 
condition. The Chapel walls are of a variety of 
exquisite marbles brought from the Snow^ moun- 
tains, the doors and cabinets are of ebony, ivory, 
and tortoise shell ; and set in the altar are two 
immense agates three feet each, in circumference. 

Malaga, a seaport town of Andalusia, founded 
by the Carthagenians, and successively under the 
rule of the Romans, Goths, and Moors, is situated 
on a mountain-girded bay ; and above the town 
towers the ruin of an old Roman castle. Malaga 
is celebrated for its grapes, figs, oranges, lemons, 
raisins, wine, and olive oil, which are exported in 
large quantities to the United States. The man- 
ufacture of olive oil is most primitive in its 
process ; the fruit is picked in December, when 
very ripe, and crushed between two large stones 
turned by a cow or mule ; it is next placed in 
straw baskets and the oil forced out by heavy 
pressure, after which it is poured into large jars to 
settle and refine. 



170 A touR 

Gibraltar, an English possession on a penin- 
sula in the extreme south of Spain, contains a 
population of 25,000, of whom 6,000 belong to 
the army. 

The Rock so celebrated as the strongest fort- 
ress in the world, rises above the town 1,400 feet 
and extends to the end of the peninsula, a dis- 
tance of four miles. Heavily mounted with guns 
on solid fortifications, its strongest side is that 
facing Spain. Within the solid rock have been 
cut to a great height, roads and galleries; while 
nothing is visible from the exterior but the port- 
holes through which the muzzles of the guns 
protrude. 

On the top is the signal station from which is 
a fine view of sea and land. On the side of the 
hill, midway between the fort and the town, is St. 
Michael's stalactite cave; and near by, numerous 
monkeys infest the crevices of the rock, and leap, 
with chatter and grimace from cliff to cliff. 

The Rock, which overlooks the bay, is a thorn 
in the side of Spain, and serves England as a 
coaling station for its India-bound steamers ; it 
by no means commands the strait, however, as 
at this point it is 13 miles wide, and the guns 
could not carry half that distance. 

Ten miles from Gibraltar, are the extensive 
Cork forests of Spain, where the bark is annually 
gathered and shipped in large quantities to all 
parts of the world. 



AROUND THE WORLD. l/I 

From Gibraltar we crossed the strait and after 
an exceedingly rough passage reached the north- 
ern shores of Africa. 



CHAPTER XV. 



TANGIERS : ORAN : BLIDAH I ALGIERS : MARSEILLES I 
CHATEAU d'iF : TOULON : NICE I MONACO. 



Tangiers, a seaport town of Morocco, has a 
population of 10,000. It presents from the sea a 
beautiful aspect, its white houses rising in ter- 
races, one above another ; but a closer proximity 
shows the city in a disgustingly filthy condition ; 
its narrow streets swarming with beggars, ragged, 
crippled and diseased. 

The women are enveloped in a voluminous, 
shapeless, white garment, their faces, with the ex- 
ception of one eye, completely concealed from 
view. The men, who are very dark of com- 
plexion, wear loose white burnooses, between the 
opening folds of which is occasionally seen the 
gleam of their silver mounted daggers ; their bare 
legs terminating in yellow leather slippers, and 
their heads incased in a red fez, over which is 
wound the many folds of the conventional white 
turban. 



172 A TOUR 

The bazaar shops are generally about ten 
feet square; here the Moor sits cross-legged, sur- 
rounded by his wares, and transacts business from 
the door ; the chief article of commodity being 
that fine grade of leather which takes its name 
from the country. 

The city contains three mosques, before enter- 
ing any one of which the Moor must first wash 
his feet in a stone trough at the threshold. From 
the top of each minaret, at sunrise, noon, and 
sunset, a flag is raised, and the faithful called by 
voice to prayer. 

The Prison is simply a dungeon with a dirt 
floor, light and communication being obtained 
only through an aperture in the door. The 
prisoners are not only chained and beaten unmer- 
cifully, but are left by the government to starve, 
unless food or money is furnished them by private 
charities. 

The Market-place is an open space outside of 
the city walls which on market days is a scene 
of great activity and bustle ; hundreds of camels 
and donkeys loaded with dates and other articles 
of merchandise from the interior, are grouped 
around ; the camels kneeling while their owners 
relieve them of their burthens, and spread their 
wares on the ground before them. In the midst 
of this motley throng, wild, half-naked men from 
the Atlas mountains • — religious fanatics — - dance 
their uncouth measures, writhing, and foaming at 



AROUND THE WORLD. 1 73 

the mouth, while they strike their closely-shaved 
heads with sharp instruments, cutting, bruising, 
and mangling them to a mass of bleeding, quiver- 
ing flesh, apparently unconscious of the self-in- 
flicted pain. Here the snake-charmers ply their 
singular avocation, displaying their perfect con- 
trol over the movements of the huge reptiles to the 
sound of their peculiar instruments. A portion 
of the market-place is devoted to the sale of 
slaves ; the auctioneer standing in the midst of 
the wretched creatures, cries in a loud voice for 
the highest bidder ; after the auction, those re- 
maining unsold are driven through the streets to 
be sold for whatever price they may bring. 

A man who wields a wonderful degree of 
power in Morocco without being absolutely in of- 
ficial authority, is the Prince Hadj Abdes Salem, 
or the '' Saint," as he is called, a direct descendant 
of Mohammed, who is not only worshipped by the 
people, but to whom even the Emperor of Mor- 
occo must kneel for permission before assuming 
office. In person he is a man of apparently 45 
years of age, weighing some 250 lbs., and so dark 
of complexion as to be almost black ; in dress he 
is plain, distinguished from other Moors only by 
the green fez which indicates a descendant of Mo- 
hammed. The Saint has a decided partiality for 
the English and Americans, perhaps induced 
by the influence of his American wife, who visit- 
ing the country as governess to an English 



174 A TOUR 

family, charmed the Moslem by her beauty and 
grace, and consented to accept the dubious honor 
of being his favorite wife. In the suburbs she 
dwells in her own private residence, while in the 
town is the prince's harem, consisting of several 
hundred women, which is jealously guarded by 
a large number from among his many thousand 
slaves. 

A cordial invitation was extended us by the 
prince to attend a nine days' boar hunt, escorted 
by his suite and attendants numbering some 
2,000 men ; the slaves attending the hunt in the 
capacity of beaters. 

Only the ladies of our party were admitted 
into the harems. One of these is worthy of de- 
scription. The entrance was through a court- 
yard whose gates were guarded by black eunuchs. 
The reception-room was a fair example of the 
oriental style ; the walls were hung in draperies 
of silk and gold tissues ; the floor covered with 
costly Persian rugs ; while scattered around were 
cushions and divans of rare stuffs and invitine 
shape, suggestive of ease and repose ; and over 
all the reflection of the vast mirrors lent additional 
brilliancy to the scene. Here reclining in various 
graceful attitudes, were the beauties of the harem ; 
fair Georgians, lovely Circassians and dark-eyed 
Persians, gorgeously apparelled, and decked in 
resplendent jewels. Refreshments — tea, sherbets, 
and comfits — were served in delicate porcelain, 



AROUND THE WORLD. 1 75 

by kneeling slaves, incense burned and highly- 
aromatic perfumes proffered. 

At Tangiers we took steamer coasting along 
the African shore ; and after touching at various 
ports of minor importance in Morocco, we landed 
at Oran in Algeria. 

Oran, the capital of the province of the same 
name, contains some 50,000 inhabitants, and is 
almost surrounded by high hills on the summits 
of which are strong fortifications whence mag- 
nificent views are obtained of the harbor and ad- 
jacent country. 

The rail from Oran to Algiers, 260 miles, tra- 
verses a fertile and productive valley 20 miles in 
width, and one is surprised at the richness of the 
soil, and the luxuriant growth of vegetation ; here, 
in the month of December, the climate resembles 
that of spring ; and the large vineyards, recently 
planted, promise great future revenues to France. 

Blidah lies at the foot of the Atlas mountains, 
its streets gradually sloping for miles into the 
Metidja plain. Although located in the fairest 
portion of Algeria, with a mild and balmy cli- 
mate, and tropical growth of vegetation, snow 
covers the mountain peaks which overlook the city. 
In the Tivoli Gardens, where the band of African 
Chasseurs discourses fine music, throngs of the 
military and citizens resort in the cool of the 
evening to saunter among the groves of date, palm 
and banana. 



1/6 A TOUR 

The French purchase many of their horses for 
cavalry service in BHdah ; the stables containing 
several hundred of the finest animals of pure 
Arabian stock. They are constantly bought 
from the Arabs who obtain as high as from $500 
to $1,500 apiece, according to color, the sorrel 
being most highly esteemed. 

The Gorge of Chiffa, ten miles from Blidah by 
carriage, is a rent in the Atlas mountains, through 
which flows the river of the same name ; it is 
wild and rugged, and is considered the finest 
mountain scenery of all Algeria. 

In a narrow ravine leading from the Gorge is 
the Monkey brook, where innumerable apes and 
monkeys leap from rock to rock and from branch 
to branch uttering their discordant accents. Al- 
though permitting a near proximity, these animals 
are difficult to capture owing to their intuitive 
suspicion of mankind ; their less wary progeny 
alone falling sometimes in the snares laid to en- 
trap them. 

Algiers, the capital of Algeria, has a popu- 
lation of 60,000. Its white, flat-roofed houses, 
rising one above another on the sloping hill-side, 
present a singularly oriental aspect. This city 
was for many years the terror of the civilized 
world ; it was the headquarters of pirates whose 
ravages extended over the Mediterranean ; Chris- 
tians of all nationalities being captured by them 
and cast into slavery. The modern part of the 



AROUND THE WORLD. 177 

City IS that nearest the sea, it has wide streets 
with handsome buildings — the second stories 
projecting over the sidewalks — and arcades roofed 
with glass, offering shelter in inclement weather. 

The Boulevard de la Republique is a mag- 
nificent avenue built sixty feet above the water 
level, on arches of stone masonry, ,and extends 
several miles along the bay. It is inclosed on one 
side by the principal mosques, hotels and public 
squares, and on the other by a balustrade with 
occasional openings from which steps or roads 
lead down to the water's edge. 

The old or Arab part of the town is on the 
rise of the hill, above the modern or French por- 
tion ; the streets which are very narrow and 
crooked, form an intricate net-work, their pre- 
cipitous ascent broken by a series of stone stairs, 
the Rue de la Kasba being simply a continuation 
of 497 steps. The houses, which are very high, 
project from the upper story, almost meeting 
mid-air. Bordering these streets are the native 
shops, mere niches in the walls, where business is 
transacted ; the barber shops and cafes presenting 
the greatest interest to seekers of novelty. On the 
street one is struck by the variety of costumes, the 
Jew with fez, dark colored jacket, red sash, and blue 
stockings ; the Moor in white turban, embroid- 
ered jacket, full, short trousers, and white stock- 
ings ; bare-legged Arabs wrapped in white bur- 
nooses ; negroes, black as ebony, from Nubia ; the 

12 



178 A TOUR 

Greek, Spaniard and Maltese ; with the French 
and native soldiers in their gay uniforms, all jostle 
one another in the busy thoroughfares. 

The Place Bresson is a lovely square filled 
with tropical plants; the Place du Gouvernement 
has iii its centre an equestrian statue of the Duke 
of Orleans ; and the Place d' Armes, the former 
place of execution, is celebrated as being the spot 
where St. Geronimo was buried alive. 

The Kasba — ^or citadel, once the palace of 
the Deys, stands on the summit of the hill over- 
looking the city. It was here that, in 1827, the 
Dey struck the French consul in the face with his 
fan, an insult which cost him his empire and led 
to the conquest of the city by the French. 

Of the several mosques in Algiers, the Old 
and the New Mosques are the finest in external 
architecture. In accordance with the simplicity 
of the Moslem form of worship, their interior 
consists of bare white walls, divided into naves by 
columns which are wrapped about with matting 
to the height of some three feet ; the floors are 
covered with prayer-rugs; lamps are suspended 
from the ceilings, and the Mihrat, a niche in the 
wall, indicates the direction in which Mecca lies. 
On Friday — which is the Mohammedan Sabbath 
■^r-the Moslem repairs to the Mosque, and after his 
preliminary ablutions, enters with uncovered feet, 
and prostrates himself upon the ground, touching 
bis forehead frequently to the floor, invariably 



AROUND THE WORLD. 1 79 

turning his face towards Mecca, and apparently 
lost to the outward world. 

Overlooking the Jardin Marengo is a mosque 
and koubba combined, which enshrines the tomb 
of the saint Aba-er- Rahman, surrounded by those 
of pashas and deys ; lights are kept continually 
burning on this tomb, which is hung around with 
flags, ostrich eggs and other offerings from the 
faithful. 

On a brow of the hill overlooking the sea is 
the handsome church of Notre Dame d' Afrique ; 
the interior of whose walls are covered with 
wooden crutches, and with waxen imitations of 
hearts, heads, and limbs, as offerings to its tute- 
lary saint for having effected miraculous cures of 
disease in each respective portion of the human 
body. Every Sunday afternoon the priest, fol- 
lowed by the devout, marches in procession to a 
projecting point overhanging the sea, and per- 
forms the service for the dead over that vast 
grave. 

Directly below the church, on the sands of the 
beach, a weird religious ceremony takes place 
once a week, at sunrise. A sect composed of 
various nationalities — Jew, Arab, Moor, and Ne- 
gro — assemble here with their priest to perform 
their singular rites, which are supposed to effect 
miraculous cures. The afflicted each bring with 
them a chicken, which is offered to the priest, who 
adroitly cuts its throat in a manner to preserve 



l8o A TOUR 

the blood ; with this he anoints the parts affected, 
muttering the while certain incantations or exor- 
cisms ; after which the subjects proceed to bathe 
in the cleansing waters of the sea whence they are 
supposed to issue purified. 

The Ai'ssaoui is another sect of fanatics, some- 
what similar to the Dervishes, composed of 
Arabs, Kabyles, and Negroes, and derives its 
name from its founder Sidi-Mahomet-Ben-ATssa. 
Their religious rites, which are now rarely per- 
mitted by the French authorities on account of 
the barbarity exercised, take place under roof, ac- 
companied by the primitive, monotonous sounds 
of drums beaten by the hand. Working them- 
selves up to the required pitch of nervous excite- 
ment, the fanatics rush with an unearthly yell 
into the ring, and execute a frantic dance, their 
bodies swaying and writhing with the violence of 
their emotions, while they utter growls similar to 
those of beasts of prey. Among the ceremonies we 
witnessed were the ordeals of walking barefooted 
on red-hot irons, the burning flesh impregnating 
the air with its sickening odor ; holding live coals 
in their mouths ; beating their bare breasts with 
great stones ; standing on the sharp edges of 
swords, running steel blades through their cheeks, 
tongues, and bodies ; and eating live scorpions, 
and the leaves of the prickly pear. 

Three miles from Algiers is the Jardin d'Es- 
sai — an extensive farm, with beautiful avenues 



AROUND THE WORLD. l8l 

of bamboo, palm, date, banana, and magnolia, 
where are raised large numbers of ostriches. 
These birds which are of white, black, and grey 
plumage, are caught on the desert with some diffi- 
culty ; in order to capture one of them, the speed 
of ten swift horses stationed at certain intervals, is 
required to run it down. The ostrich averages 
200 lbs., is valued at about $300, and lives to the 
age of 40 years. Between this garden and the 
city is the Arab cemetery where every Friday 
afternoon the women assemble to pray upon the 
graves of their dead. On the road we passed 
caravans of camels, heavily laden with fruit and 
various merchandise, on their way to and from 
the city. 

From Algiers we crossed the Mediterranean, 
passing between the islands of Majorca and Min- 
orca, and landed on the southern coast of France. 

Marseilles is the great commercial seaport of 
France on the Mediterranean, and has a popula- 
tion of 325,000. It was founded by the Phoeni- 
cians 600 years B. C, and in its vicinity is the 
battlefield where Hannibal and his Carthagenians 
on their march upon Rome encountered the Ro- 
man legions. 

The quays of Marseilles are magnificent, and 
its harbor the finest in France, accommodating 
hundreds of vessels, and is so arranged as to al- 
low of the entrance of but one at a time. The 
streets are wide and clean, the principal of which 



1-82 A TOUR 

are bordered with trees and handsome buildings ; 
the Prado, a lovely shaded avenue, several miles 
in length, being a favorite drive of an afternoon. 
Its principal edifices are, the Church of Notre 
Dame de la Garde, located on an eminence, the 
Palais de Longchamps ; the Cathedral, and the 
Bourse. 

The Chateau dTf on a rocky island in the bay, 
five miles from Marseilles, was the scene of 
Dumas' greatest work of fiction — the Count of 
Monte Cristo. The water surrounding the island 
is deep and rough but it is accessible by sail boat 
in fair weather. On the wall of a prison cell 
are still visible the mathematical calculations of 
the abbe Ferrier. The size of his small donjon 
cell barely measures the length of the narrow 
bed that concealed the aperture in the wall, 
which he made at cost of such peril and sleepless 
vigils, thus enabling the wretched prisoner to com- 
municate with Edmond Dantes. A point on the 
battlement, reached by stone steps, is shown 
where the living sewn up in a bag was thrown 
into the sea in place of the dead man ; and a rock 
two miles distant is seen where Dantes first placed 
foot after making his almost miraculous escape. 

The Chateau dTf is also notable as the tem- 
porary place of confinement of the man of the 
Iron Mask, whose identity is to this day en- 
shrouded in mystery, and of other better known, 
but perhaps less distinguished prisoners. 



Around the world. 183 

From Marseilles to Nice, the railroad passes 
through Toulon, the great naval arsenal of France 
on the Mediterranean, which is strongly fortified, 
and now considered impregnable. Toulon was 
taken by the English in August 1793; but as 
5,000 troops were inadequate to garrison such ex- 
tensive works, the important pass, of OUioules on 
the west was left unguarded, and was entered by 
50,000 mad Republicans reeking with the gore of 
the inhabitants of Marseilles and Lyons, who 
killed all whom they met whether friend or foe. 
Six thousand were massacred by order of the 
Committee of Public Safety, of which Robes- 
pierre w^as at the head, notwithstanding the pro- 
testations of the French general, Du Gommier, 
and those of his lieutenant Bonaparte. 

It was at Toulon that Napoleon — for the first 
time in command, had an opportunity of display- 
ing his military genius, and so planted his bat- 
teries on the heights as to command all the forts 
held by the enemy. 

A few miles beyond Toulon, on the coast, is 
the village of St. Raphael where Napoleon em- 
barked for Elba in 18 14, the beginning and clos- 
ing of his wonderful career taking place in such 
near proximity. 

Cannes, delightfully situated on a bay of the 
same name, is a winter resort noted for its mild 
climate. It has many lovely villas, and pleasant 
walks and drives in every direction. 



1 84 A TOUR 

Nice, on the Mediterranean, with a resident 
population of 54,000, is a favorite resort on ac- 
count of its perfect cHmate. Some of its streets 
and buildings may compare favorably with those 
of Paris, while the Promenade des Anglais, which 
faces the sea, is thronged every afternoon with the 
elite and fashion of the place. 

It was in Nice that Massina was born, 1758, 
and Garibaldi in 1807. ^ marble cross commem- 
orates the visit, in 1538, of Pope Paul III., who 
came to effect a reconciliation between Francis I. 
of France and Charles V. of Germany, and a 
monument is also erected in honor of the visit of 
Pope Pius VII. in 18 14. 

A charming drive in the suburbs of the city 
leads to the Franciscan monastery, the road pass- 
ing through an old Roman amphitheatre and 
near many lovely villas. 

In Nice a specialty is made of bonbons made 
of the real petals of the violet, orange, and rose, 
coated with sugar in such manner as to retain 
their natural fragrance. 

Monaco, the smallest sovereign principality in 
Europe, being only one mile in width, and having 
an army of only 72 men, projects into the Medi- 
terranean from the south-eastern corner of France, 
and is protected from the winds of the north, 
by a spur of the Alps which rises behind it like a 
vast amphitheatre. 

On one of the peninsulas is the town of 



AROUND THE WORLD. 185 

Monaco and the palace of Prince Grimaldi, while 
on the opposite point is Monte Carlo, the famous 
gambling place of Europe, which the prince rents 
to a French company for a fabulous sum. 

On the top of the mountain stand romantic 
ruins of old Roman towers, further down, magni- 
ficent gardens, filled with palm and date trees, 
beautiful flowers, and a luxuriance of other tropical 
growth, while below, the blue curves of the bay, 
combine to render the scene a most charming one. 
The Casino is a magnificent harmony of frescoes, 
gildings, mirrors, and paintings. The Concert room 
seats 1,000 people, and is free to the habitues of 
the place, who congregate there daily to listen to 
the strains of the finest string band in Europe. 
The Gambling rooms, three in number, open one 
into the other, and contain seven tables for the 
game which begins at 12 M. and closes at 11:30 
P. M. No one is permitted here under sixteen 
years of age, but in singular contrast is tot- 
tering old age and blooming youth, dazzling 
beauty and frivolous fashion, nobles, plebeians, 
actresses, and demi-mondaines, all intent upon the 
game ; money flowing lavishly, fortunes made and 
lost in a few hours. 

The Cornice road, which extends from Nice to 
Spezia, runs parallel with the railway skirting the 
shores of the Mediterranean, passing near a num- 
ber of small villages and places of resort, one of 
the most attractive of which is San Remo. 



1 86 A TOUR 



CHAPTER XVI. 

GENOA : TURIN : MILAN : VERONA : VENICE : BOLOGNA : 
FLORENCE : CARRARA : PISA. 

Genoa, is a city of 162,000 inhabitants, built on 
and between hills overlooking the bay. Its streets 
are very narrow, especially in the old quarter, and 
its houses, many of which are of marble, rise to a 
^reat height, having as many as eight and ten 
stories. As a rule the exterior of the houses are 
stuccoed, painted red or yellow, and frescoed from 
top to bottom, while the roofs being flat and 
filled with plants and shrubs serve as a promenade 
for the owners. 

Genoa is especially noted as having been the 
native city of Columbus, who was born here in 
1436. His statue adorns a square in the city, and 
represents him leaning on an anchor, America 
kneeling at his feet, and surrounding him figures 
typical of Wisdom, Strength, Geography and Re- 
ligion. 

The city is celebrated for its delicate filagree 
work in gold and silver, and is a great manufac- 
turing place for silks and velvets. 

The Cathedral of San Lorenzo, a portion of 
which Avas a heathen temple of worship in olden 



AROUND THE WORLD. 1 8/ 

times, is built of black and white marble in hori- 
zontal stripes, and is adorned with handsome 
columns, and grotesque figures representing ani- 
mals. In the treasury of this church is the Sacro 
Catino, the dish from which it is said Christ ate 
the Last Supper. It is of dark green glass, ten 
inches across and four deep, and was kept in the 
Temple until Caesarea was taken by the combined 
armies of Pisa and Genoa, when the latter took it 
as their share of the booty. So great was the 
veneration in which this dish was held, the Jews 
loaned 5 ,000,000 francs -— $ i ,000,000 — on it, and 
when on exhibition once a year, it was attached 
by a strong chain which was held by a priest, and 
was guarded by twelve noblemen. 

The Church of the Annunciation has the finest 
interior of any in Genoa, being finished in a great 
variety of marbles, its ceiling and dome frescoed 
to represent scenes from the Old and New Testa- 
ments. 

The palaces of Genoa are of marble with an 
open court inclosed in pillars ; the entrance doors 
or gates are frequently forty feet high, and sur- 
mounted by the coat-of-arms of the owner, and 
both exteriorly and interiorly, they are dingy, 
damp, cold, and prison-like. The principal of 
these are the Pallavicini, Doria, Brignoli, and 
Doria-Torsi palaces, in all of which are fine paint- 
ings, while the ducal palace, formerly the resi- 
dence of the Doges, is now used for public offices. 



lS8 A TOUR 

The Campo Santo, or Cemetery, three miles 
from Genoa, is on the side of a hill, and is justly 
celebrated for its many magnificent monuments ; 
these, the best works of Villa, Benetti, and Mor- 
eno, are cut from the purest white marble ; their 
originality of design and delicacy of execution, 
being truly wonderful. The humble graves of the 
poor offer a striking contrast, being simply 
mounds of earth surmounted by lanterns. 

Seven miles from Genoa is the villa of Count 
Pallavicini, in the grounds of which are a great 
variety of plants and trees, miniature mosques, 
pagodas, and temples, with numerous jets of 
water, leaping up here and there at most unex- 
pected turns, and a stalactite grotto in which is a 
small lake, winding through to an opening on the 
opposite side, where a scene of unexpected beauty 
greets the eye. 

Turin, on the river Po, with a population of 
193,000, differing from other Italian towns, is 
well built, with streets running at right angles, 
and houses massive and substantial, its several 
squares containing many fine monuments. In the 
Piazza Castello stands the old castle of the dukes 
of Savoy, also the present palace, adjoining, which 
is the Royal Armory, noted for its fine display of 
arms. In the chapel of St. Sinode attached to the 
Cathedral, is preserved the winding sheet of the 
Saviour. 

From Turin, there is a magnificent view of the 



AROUND THE WORLD. 1 89 

Alps, and from this point rail is taken to lorea, 
thence stage and horse to the Hospice at the 
summit of the great St. Bernard. 

Milan, the capital of Lombardy, with a popu- 
lation of 261,000 and noted for its manufacture of 
silk and velvet, is the finest and most modern- 
built city in Italy, full of activity and thrift, and 
free from those evidences of decline visible in 
other Italian cities. It is nearly circular in form, 
and seven miles around, with thirteen gates of 
massive proportions, the finest of these being the 
Porta della Pace, on the Simplon road ; it is of 
marble ornamented with statues, and surmounted 
by the bronze figure of Peace in a chariot drawn 
by six horses. 

Within the city are the well-preserved remains 
of an ancient Roman arena, sufficiently large to 
accommodate 30,000 spectators. Here Napoleon 
witnessed a regatta in 1807, water having been in- 
troduced into it by artificial means. 

The Duomo, or Cathedral of Milan, the finest 
in Italy, is one of the most beautiful existing 
specimens of Gothic architecture. It is con- 
structed of white marble, from the quarries of 
Gandolia, which was bequeathed to the Cathedral 
by Gian Galleazzo, and is in the form of the Latin 
cross, 477x183 feet, surmounted by hundreds of 
spires and 4,000 statues. The interior, with its 
double aisles, lofty arches, and clustered pillars — 
ninety feet high, and eight in diameter, is very 



igo A TOUR 

imposing, and beneath the dome are the remains 
of St. Charles Borromeo, who was archbishop of 
Milan in the 1 6th century. 

On the wall of the Refectory in the Dominican 
Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie, is Leonardo 
da Vinci's fresco of the Last Supper. This, one 
of his first works — 30 feet in length by 15 in 
height, occupied sixteen years of his life. Though 
greatly damaged by dampness, age, and violence 
— the monks having cut a door through the feet 
of the principal figure, and Napoleon having used 
the room for a stable — it is still considered the 
finest painting in the world. 

In the Church of St. Ambrogio where the 
German emperors received the crown of Lom- 
bardy, they claim to have the Brazen Serpent 
made by Moses in the Wilderness. 

The Biblioteca Ambrosiana comprises 175,000 
volumes, and 20,000 MSS. among which are, a 
note-book of Leonardo da Vinci ; a lost oration 
of Cicero ; translations from Homer, Josephus, and 
Livy ; and the correspondence of Cardinal Bembo 
and Lucrezia Borgia, with a lock of her hair. 

In the centre of the Piazza della Scala — a 
public square, is a monument, in Carrara marble, 
of Leonardo da Vinci surrounded by his pupils. 
Facing this stands the famous Teatro della Scala, 
which contains six tiers of boxes seating 4,000 
people, and whose acoustic properties are superior 
to those of any other theatre in the world. 



AROUND THE WORLD. I9I 

In the Monumental Cemetery is the Crema- 
tion house, containing furnaces and all other neces- 
sary appliances for the incinerary rites. The body 
is placed on an iron slide and pushed into an oven 
which after being rendered air-tight, is brought to 
intense heat by means of brush twigs, but two 
hours being required to reduce ,the body to 
ashes. 

Verona, on the river Adige, with a population 
of 67,000, was once the capital of the kingdom of 
Italy, and afterwards that of quite a large territory 
governed successively by the Scaligers and Vi- 
contis. It was near here Marius fought his 
famous battle against the Cimbri ; here Theodoric 
the Great won the victory over Odoacer; and in 
the 13th and 14th centuries transpired the conten- 
tions between the Capuletti and Montecchi, which 
Shakespeare has immortalized in his story of the 
loves of Romeo and Juliet. 

Verona is celebrated as having given birth to 
Julius Caesar Scaliger, Caius Secundus, Pliny the 
elder, v/hose . tragic death occurred at Vesuvius, 
and Paul Cagliari, surnam.ed Veronese. The 
principal objects of interest in the city are, the old 
Roman amphitheatre, which seated 25,000 per- 
sons, and is in a perfect state of preservation : the 
Church of Zanzenone, in which are the statue of 
the black African bishop St. Zeno, and the tomb of 
Guiseppi della Scala to whom Dante refers. The 
Palazzo del Consiglio is . adorned by statues 



192 A TOUR 

of Catullus Fracastorio, poet and astronomer, 
Pliny and other sons of Verona. 

In a public thoroughfare yet stand, as they 
have for 500 years, the tombs of the Scaligers, 
the old lords of Verona ; while still to be seen 
are the houses of the Montagues and Capu- 
lets — the latter bearing the armorial crest of the 
Capulet bonnet: here Juliet's room and balcony 
are pointed out, and her grave is shown in a re- 
mote part of the city. The play of Romeo and 
Juliet was produced by Shakespeare in 1596, but 
the original author of the story, a fact not gener- 
ally known, was Luigi da Porta, a gentleman of 
Vicenza, who died in 1529. 

Venice, the queen of the Adriatic, w^as founded 
in 462, by the inhabitants of Aquilera, who fled to 
the shallow lagunes for safety, when Italy was in- 
vaded by Attila. It is built on 117 islands on a 
bay in the Gulf of Venice, intersected by 150 
narrow canals which are spanned by 380 short 
bridges. As there are few or no sidewalks, the 
mode of conveyance used either for business or 
pleasure is the gondola — a long narrow boat 
rowed by two men who stand erect one at the bow 
and the other at the stern, propelling it with grace 
and skill. These boats, which hold from two to 
six persons, are painted black by legal ordinance 
which was established to prevent the growing 
rivalry of extravagance. They are comfortably 
and luxuriously appointed, but in bad weather a 



AROUND THE WORLD. T93 

wooden covering is thrown over that portion 
occupied by passengers, which with its gloomy- 
trappings gives it the appearance of a hearse. 

The city is chiefly noted for its glass manu- 
factures and wood carvings, and contains many 
fine churches and palaces built mostly after the 
Byzantine-Moorish style, while many of its towers 
and houses, on account of their sunken founda- 
tions, lean almost as much as the Tower of Pisa. 
The city by daylight is unattractive, as the houses 
are mouldy and out of repair, but by moonlight 
it is exceedingly beautiful, showing the light, 
open style of architecture to advantage. Gliding 
over the glassy surface of the canals, with music 
pulsing in the air, and the sheen of the moonlight 
casting a glamour over the scene, is enchanting 
and attractive for a time, but after a few weeks* 
stay the novelty wears off, and the fact of being 
dependent upon a gondola and gondolier gives 
one a sense of infinite helplessness ; for as some- 
one has said : '' Venice is a paradise for cripples, 
as a man has little use for his legs." 

The Grand Canal which is two and a half miles 
in length, three hundred feet in width, and six in 
depth, runs through the heart of the city in the 
form of the letter S. On it are situated most of 
the fine buildings, and mid-way it is spanned by 
the famous Ponte di Rialto — a marble bridge 
bordered on either side by shops — which connects 
the two large islands of Rialto and San Marco. 

13 



194 A TOUR 

The Piazza di San Marco is the principal 
square in the city, where the band plays in the 
evening, and all Venice promenades from 7 to 9. 
At 2 P. M. when the clock strikes the hour hun- 
dreds of pigeons fly from all directions to its centre 
to be fed, an old lady having bequeathed her 
fortune for this purpose. Around this square are 
the principal cafes, shops, and public buildings, 
including St. Mark's Church, and the palaces of 
the Doge and the King. At the water-front are 
two granite columns from Syria, on one of which 
is the statue of St. Theodore, the protector of the 
Republic, standing on an alligator, and on the 
other the Lion of St. Mark, with one foot on the 
Bible and another on a ball ; between these two 
columns public executions formerly took place. 

St. Mark's Church standing at the head of the 
Square, was founded in 828 to receive the re- 
mains of St. Mark brought from Alexandria, 
Egypt, and is of the Gothic and Oriental styles. 
In front of the church are the three staffs which 
formerly bore the flags of Candia, Cyprus, and 
Morea, and above the main entrance are the four 
famous bronze horses of Chian origin. These 
horses were taken to Constantinople by Theodo- 
sius, from thence they were removed by the Vene- 
tians, in 1206, when they plundered the capital of 
the Eastern Empire ; they were afterwards car- 
ried to Paris by Napoleon, and subsequently 
restored to Venice. The pulpits and walls of the 



AROUND THE WORLD. I95 

church are of costly marble decorated with Bibli- 
cal illustrations in glass mosaic, and of its 500 
pillars of alabaster and stone, the four centre ones 
supporting the canopy over the relics of St. Mark, 
are said to have been brought from the Temple of 
Solomon. The altar of the baptistry is formed of 
a granite slab on which, it is said,' Jesus stood 
when he preached to the inhabitants of Tyre, and 
near the central portal is a red marble block in- 
serted in the floor marking the spot where Pope 
Alexander III. was reconciled to the Emperor 
Frederick Barbarossa, July 23d, 1177. 

To the left and right of the church are the bell 
and clock towers, up the former of which Napo- 
leon rode apparently in imitation of the feat per- 
formed by Peter the Great in Copenhagen ; while 
the latter contains a large and complicated clock 
with two life-size bronze figures of men which 
strike the hour with sledge hammers. 

The Doge's Palace, on the east side of St. 
Mark's Square, is built of red and white marble, in 
the Oriental style, and is supported on the Square 
and water-front sides by colonnades. It is en- 
tered by the Giant Staircase, which derives its 
name from the gigantic statues of Mars and Nep- 
tune ; besides these are those of Adam and Eve, 
while ranged around the corridor are busts of 
celebrated Venetians; here the doge, Marino Fa- 
liero, was beheaded for plotting against the 
Republic. 



196 A TOUR 

At the head of the Giant Staircase is The 
Lion's Mouth — a small hole in the wall formerly- 
covered with a lion's head, in the mouth of which 
informers were wont to place anonymous commu- 
nications warning the authorities against suspected 
conspiracies; this means was not infrequently 
taken advantage of to gratify personal animosity, 
and many an innocent victim was arrested and 
sentenced to death. 

Ascending the stairs one enters the Library, 
which contains the first book printed in Venice, in 
1469, and the will of Marco Polo, dated 1324. 

The Hall of the Great Council is a vast apart- 
ment, its walls and ceiling covered with frescoes, 
at one end of which is Tintoretto's painting on 
canvas of Paradise, 84x33 ^^ feet in size, while 
bordering the walls are the portraits of the 72 
doges, that of Marino Faliero being obliterated. 

When the patricians governed Venice, plebeians 
had no vote or voice in state affairs : from the 
1500 patricians, 300 senators were chosen; from, 
the senators, a council of 10, who elected from 
their number a doge, and by secret ballot these 10 
chose a council of 3, who judged all political 
criminals, and from whose sentence there was no 
appeal : these met at night in the Dark Room, 
masked, and unknown to each other or even to 
the Doge. In the vestibule leading into this 
apartment was another Lion's Mouth in which the 
patricians deposited their accusations signed with 



Around the world. 197 

their own names — unlike those of the plebeians. 
The Chamber of the Council of Three is of dark 
wood, imparting a gloomy aspect in keeping with 
the mystery of their transactions : in closets in 
this room were kept their masks and gowns, and 
secret passages connected it with the prison. 

Mystery and darkness likewise enshrouded all 
dealings with the suspected. The accused was 
arrested in the secrecy of night and conveyed in a 
gondola to the water door of the prison, where he 
was confined in a donjon cell, until taken across 
the Bridge of Sighs to receive sentence in the 
Chamber of the Council of Three, which sentence 
invariably meant a horrible death. 



**I stood in Venice, on the Bridge of Sighs; 
A palace and a prison on each hand." 



The Ponte dei Sospiri, or Bridge of Sighs, is 
a covered passage, divided by a lengthwise parti- 
tion, one small window admitting light within, 
and permitting to the condemned a last glimpse 
of the outer world he was quitting forever. 

At the entrance of the Arsenal are the four 
marble lions brought from Piraeus in 1687, and 
within it, is a model of the Bucentaur — the 
Doge's gilded barge used at the annual cere- 
monial of his marriage with the Adriatic when 
the nuptial ring dropped into* its weaves consum- 
mated the poetic rites. 



198 A TOUR 

In the private palace of Treves are the colossal 
marble statues of Hector and Ajax, the last works 
of the great Canova. Of the other objects of 
general interest in Venice are, the house of Shy- 
lock, the ''Merchant of Venice," situated in the 
Jews' quarter near the Grand Canal ; that of 
Cristoforo Moro, the original of Shakespeare's 
Othello ; the house of Desdemona, now a part of 
the Grand Hotel ; the house of Lucrezia Borgia, 
now a museum ; and the palace occupied by Lord 
Byron while writing his beautiful description of 
Venice. 

The Church of Santa Maria di Frari, mag- 
nificently adorned with a variety of marbles, 
contains the beautiful monuments to Titian and 
Canova, and a most peculiar one to the Doge 
Giovanni Pessaro, consisting of four gigantic Nu- 
bians in black marble, their drapery of a strongly 
contrasting white marble, bearing on their heads 
sacks of India coffee. 

While in Venice we witnessed a grand illu- 
mination on land and water, given in honor of a 
visit from the English fleet. An immense barge 
gay with colored lights, and flags of all nations, 
and bearing a fine band of music, was drawn by 
smaller boats, and followed by hundreds of illu- 
minated gondolas, through the canals. These 
latter were bordered by brilliantly-lighted build- 
ings, while colored rockets sped like meteors 
through the air. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 1 9$ 

Taking rail from Venice in a southerly direc- 
tion, we stopped at Bologna, celebrated for its 
manufacture of sausages ; crossed the Apennines 
range, having a succession of beautiful views, and 
passed through Pistoria, where pistols were origi- 
nally manufactured, and whence they took their 
name ; and near here Cataline was defeated and 
slain. 

Florence, in the province of Tuscany, on both 
banks of the Arno, has a population of 170,000. 
It has been immortalized by Byron and Rogers, 
and revered as the birthplace of Dante, Petrarch, 
Boccaccio, Galileo, Michael Angelo, Leonardo da 
Vinci, Benvenuto Cellini, and Andraea del Sarto. 

In the Piazza della Signoria stands the Pal- 
azzo Vecchio, formerly the residence of the su- 
perior magistrate, near which is the Fountain of 
Neptune on the site where the reformer, Savona- 
rola, suffered martyrdom ; and under the Loggia 
di Lanzi are fine sculptures of the Rape of the 
Sabines by Giovanni di Bologna ; Perseus, by 
Benvenuto Cellini; the Rape of Polixena ; and 
the Dying Ajax. 

Florence is noted for her large collections of 
the fine arts ; and for the manufacture of mosaics, 
which are composed of colored stones blended 
with such artistic skill as to resemble the most 
delicate painting. 

The Uffizi Gallery, one of the largest and 
most valuable collections existing, contains Titian's 



200 A TOUR 

Venus Reposing ; the Mater Dolorosa by Sasso- 
ferrato ; and the marble statues of the Venus di 
Medici, found in Hadrian's villa during the reign 
of the Medici ; the Wrestlers ; the Young Ath- 
lete ; and the Dancing Faun ; besides a vase cut 
from a single block of Lapis Lazuli 14 inches in 
diameter; and a mosaic table, which required the 
labor of fifteen years, and is valued at $200,000. 

The Pitti Palace the residence of the king 
when in Plorence, has a collection of 500 paint- 
ings by old masters ; the most celebrated of these 
are Raphael's Madonna della Seggiola, — or Ma- 
donna of the chair ; Titian's Magdalene ; Murillo's 
Madonna and Child ; and a painting representing 
Diogenes in the act of throwing away his cup on 
seeing a boy drink from his hand ; besides these 
are Canova's sculptured Venus, and other fine 
marbles. 

In the Academy of Fine Arts are Michael An- 
gelo's colossal statue of David ; and a fair collec- 
tion of paintings by modern artists ; while in the 
National Museum formerly the State prison are 
Michael Angelo's Leda and the Swan ; and Gio- 
vanni di Bologna's Mercury in bronze. 

The Tribuna dedicated to the memory of 
Galileo contains his statue in marble ; also, in a 
glass case, one of his fingers ; and his telescope 
and other astronomical instruments. On the walls 
are three beautiful frescoes representing scenes in 
the life of this great astronomer; one depicting 



AROUND THE WORLt). 50l 

him in the Cathedral at Pisa swinging the lamp 
from which he originated the theory of the pen- 
dulum ; another, his demonstration of the power 
of the telescope before the Doge and Council of 
Ten ; and the last representing him as blind with 
one hand resting on the globe, the other pointing 
heavenward as he demonstrates to his pupils the 
motion of the heavenly bodies. 

The house in which Dante was born is still 
extant ; and in that of Michael Angelo, the illus- 
trious Italian painter, sculptor, and architect, — 
born in 1474 and died in 1564 — are his manu- 
scripts, swords, canes, designs, and his portrait by 
himself. 

The Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, built 
of black and white marbles, has the largest 
dome in the World, and served as a model for that 
of St. Peter; its campanile — or bell-tower — 
designed by Giotto, rises to a height of 275 feet; 
and near it are the statues of the two architects 
Arnolfo and Brunelleschi, while not far off is the 
Seat of Dante where the poet contemplated the 
beauties of the Cathedral. 

The Baptistry, built after the model of the 
Pantheon at Rome, from material taken from the 
temple of Mars, contains Ghilberti's celebrated 
bronze doors representing scenes from- the Old 
and New Testaments, which Michael Angelo de- 
clared worthy of being the gates of Paradise. 

The Church of Santa Croce is the favorite 



±62 A TOUR 

burial-place ; and contains the tombs of, and fine 
monuments to Dante, Galileo and Michael Angelo 
Buonarrotti. Over the entrance are the letters 
I. H. S. — anglicized Jesus Saviour of Men — 
placed there by St. Bernadino of Sienna; who, 
reproving one of his flock for the manufacture of 
playing cards, suggested the substitution of these 
letters for the usual characters. The unique 
novelty of the inscription pleased the popular fancy 
and the sale of his cards realized him a fortune. 

In the Church of Ognisanti is the tomb of the 
discoverer Amerigo Vespucci marked only by a 
simple slab ; and in the Church of San Lorenzo 
is the Medicean Chapel, originally intended for 
the Holy Sepulchre, which the Tuscans intended 
stealing from Jerusalem, but failed in the attempt. 
The Chapel contains some magnificent mosaics 
and frescoes ; the walls are inlaid with valuable 
marbles and precious stones, with armorial bear- 
ings the very perfection of mosaic art. Here are 
the tombs of Guiliano and Lorenzo di Medici, and 
of other members of that wicked race. 

The Cascine is the Hyde Park of Florence, 
deriving its name from the dairy houses of the 
Grand Duke ; here the fashion of the city congre- 
gate of an afternoon, for the society of Florence 
makes no further requirements than an attend- 
ance at the Opera, and an equipage in the 
Cascine. 

Carrara is celebrated for its perfect white 



AkOUNt) THE WORLC). :203 

marble, which is used exclusively for statuary. 
The quarries, of which there are several, are on 
the side of a mountain overlooking the town, and 
give employment to about 6,000 men. The 
marble having been blasted, the huge blocks are 
carried by rail down the mountain side and hauled 
by ten or more oxen to the mills where they are 
sawed into more portable size. In the town are 
several fine studios of which Pietro Lazzerini's is 
the best known. 

Pisa, an ancient and much decayed city, is on 
the Arno, five miles from its mouth, and contains 
50,000 inhabitants. The Leaning Tower, 183 
feet in height, is built of white marble, and con- 
sists of eight stories, with outside galleries, which 
project seven feet, with an interior ascent of 294 
stone steps. The topmost story overhangs the 
base on one side 14 feet, and underneath this 
point Galileo is said to have studied the principles 
of gravity. This tower was erected by Bonanno of 
Pisa, in 1174, and has probably taken its present 
inclination from the sinking of the earth at its 
foundation, although the Pisans claim it to have 
been produced by a miracle of architectural skill. 

The Cathedral which is composed of a variety 
of marbles has several old paintings and fine 
statues, while in the nave is suspended the large 
bronze lamp, the swinging of which first suggested 
to Galileo the theory of the pendulum. 

The Baptistry situated opposite the Cathedral 



264- A TOUR 

is an immense circular building i6o feet in height 
surmounted by a cupola ; its interior is rich in 
marbles and mosaics, and contains a pulpit of 
exquisite workmanship. 

The Campo Santo is the most ancient burial 
ground of any in Italy, and the earth in this in- 
closure was brought from Jerusalem in 50 galleys 
in the year 1228. 

In the Piazza di Cavalieri is the Torre della 
Fame, or Tower of Fame, celebrated by Dante's 
description, and near this is the palace Lanfranchi 
where Lord Byron dwelt with the Countess 
Guicioli, and wrote his Werner and Don Juan. 

A small insignificant-looking house in the via 
Forbesas bears a marble slab with the inscription : 
*' Galileo Galilei was born here February i8th, 
1564." This eminent astronomer and inventor of 
the telescope, undertook in Rome, to demonstrate 
the theory of the Solar System discovered by 
Copernicus, but his theories being in advance of 
the unenlightened age in which he lived, aroused 
the ire of the priest-ridden people, and he was 
thrown into prison and compelled to deny his 
principles ; on his release, however, he exclaimed : 
''eppur SI muove,'' — ''but it does move after all." 

The rail from Pisa to Rome passes through 
Leghorn, celebrated for its manufacture of straw 
hats, and in sight of the small island where Gari- 
baldi is buried, and of that of Elba, the scene of 
Napoleon's first exile. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 205 



CHAPTER XVII. 

ROME, ITS ENVIRONS. 

Rome is the most celebrated of European cities, 
famous in both ancient and modern history. It 
was once the capital of the most powerful nation 
of antiquity, and later the ecclesiastical capital of 
Christendom, and the place of residence of the 
Pope; since 1871 it has become the capital of 
United Italy and the city where the king holds 
his court. 

Rome is situated on both banks of the Tiber, 
16 miles from its mouth, and has a population of 
250,000. It once boasted 4,000,000 inhabitants, 
and its area encompassed seven hills, several of 
v/hich are now marked but by ruins and decay. 

The origin of the city is involved in mystery, 
but the generally conceived idea is that it was 
founded 753 years B. C. by Romulus and Remus 
who, as the legend runs, were found on the banks 
of the river by a she-wolf, which had come to 
drink of the stream, carried them into her den 
hard by and suckled them. 

The Palatine Hill was first settled by a Greek 
colony under Evander 2,000 years B. C. and was 
afterwards the site of the city founded by Romu- 



206 A TOUR 

lus, who inclosed it with a square wall, which 
gave it the name of Roma quadrata. Just outside 
of this wall was the sacred boundary over which 
Remus leaped in token of his contempt, and 
thereby incurring his brother's resentment was 
slain by him. 

At the beginning of the Empire Augustus 
built the first palace on the Palatine, to which were 
subsequently added those of Tiberius, Caligula, 
Domitian, and Septimus Severus, and consolidated 
into one is called the Palace of the Caesars. 
Among the ruins of this palace is the temple of 
Jupiter Stator where the Lares and Penates, or 
household gods, were enshrined ; where Nero 
condemned St. Paul to death, and where Cicero 
delivered his first scathing denunciation against 
Catiline ; and in the palace of Domitian is an 
amphitheatre where foot-races and other sports 
took place. Near by is the Circus Maximus, 
the scene of the rape of the Sabines by the 
Romans. 

The Capitoline Hill was the citadel of ancient 
Rome. It was betrayed by Tarpeia, the daugh- 
ter of the warden of the gates, to the Sabines, who 
entered the city, and after a time reigned jointly 
with the Romans. It was in this citadel that were 
kept the sacred geese whose cackling, on the ap- 
proach of the Gauls, aroused the garrison and 
thus saved Rome ; and it was from the Tarpeian 
Rock that the Roman commander Marcus Man- 



AROUND THE WORLD. 20/ 

lius on this occasion, hurled the enemy headlong 
down the precipice. 

The Temple of Jupiter Capitolinus adjoins the 
Senate-chamber upon the steps of which Rienzi — 
the last of the Tribunes — fell beneath the daggers 
of the populace while attempting his escape. 

The Capitoline Museum, in front of which 
there is a fine equestrian statue of Marcus Aure- 
lius, and also of the twin heroes of the mythologi- 
cal era, Castor and Pollux, contains the following 
celebrated statuary : The Dying Gladiator, the 
Faun of Praxiteles, the Venus of the Capitol, 
Romulus and Remus nursed by the wolf, heroic 
figures of Julius and Augustus Caesar, busts of 
other Roman Emperors, besides a beautiful ancient 
mosaic of Pliny's Doves. 

The Roman Forum, which occupies the low 
land between the Palatine and Capitoline hills, 
was formerly the market-place and general place 
of assembly ; here was the scene of important 
social, religious, and political events, and here 
were grouped the finest buildings of ancient 
Rome. The Forum is crossed by the Via Sacra, 
or Sacred Way, over which the household gods 
were carried from the Palatine to the Temple of 
Jupiter on the Capitoline, and where returning 
victors marched in triumphal procession. Its 
ruins comprise the temples of the Sun, of Saturn, 
Concord, Janus, Castor and Pollux, Faustina, and 
Vespasian ; the Colonnade of the Twelve Gods, 



208 A TOUR 

the column of Phocus, the BasiHcas JuHa and Con- 
stantine, the house of Juhus Caesar, the Tabula- 
rium — or House of Records, — and the arches of 
Septimus Severus, Constantine, and Titus. 

The Arch of Titus has on one side a bas-rehef 
of this Emperor returning in triumphal procession 
from Jerusalem, while on the other is a representa- 
tion of the seven-branched candlestick, and 
through this arch it is said Josephus marched, a 
prisoner, with other captives. 

The Forum was the scene of the death of Vir- 
ginia, and the ruins of the shop where Virginius 
snatched the knife to save his daughter's honor, is 
still extant. Here is the rostrum where Mark 
Antony made his oration over the dead body of 
Julius Caesar, the spot where it was burnt and 
the ashes buried ; also the rostrum from which 
Cicero discoursed, and where, after his death, his 
head and hands Avere exposed to public gaze. 

In the centre of the Forum once stood a column 
on which was enscribed the distance from Rome, 
of every important city in the world; hence the 
expression used : '^ that all roads lead to Rome." 
In close proximity to the Forum is the Ma- 
mertine Prison — an underground donjon where 
Saint Peter and Saint Paul were confined, and in 
it is a spring of water which is said, gushed forth 
to enable Saint Peter to baptize his converted 
jailers. 

The Colosseum, a vast amphitheatre was 



AROUND THE WORLD. 209 

commenced by Vespasian and finished by Titus, 
A. D. 80. It is 157 feet high, 1,900 in circum- 
ference, and was built by 60,000 captive Jews, 
who were engaged ten years in its construction. 
It once seated 87,000 spectators, the seats rising 
in tiers one above another ; the Emperor's box 
occupied a prominent position, and on either side 
of it sat the Senators and the Vestal Virgins. 
Beneath are subterranean passages and chambers 
where both men and beasts were confined, and 
whence they were brought into the arena by 
means of elevators. After the close of the 
gladiatorial sports, water was let in by means of 
aqueducts, and galleys introduced for the pur- 
pose of representations of naval engagements. 
At the inauguration of the Colosseum, the festivi- 
ties of wdiich lasted 100 days, 5,000 wild beasts 
and 10,000 captives were slain and many Chris- 
tian martyrs perished. 

The Golden House of Nero, so called from its 
magnificence and splendor, and which was inlaid 
with gold and mother-of-pearl, still shows on its 
walls the remains of exquisite frescoes, a design 
from which was adopted by Napoleon for the 
standard of his army. In the portico stood a 
colossal bronze statue of Nero 120 feet in height, 
the mutilated remains of which are now to be 
seen in the capitol. It is said to have been for 
the purpose of enlarging the grounds around his 
palace that Nero caused a portion of Rome to be 

14 



2IO A TOUR 

burned : his name was so obnoxious to the people 
on account of his many crimes, that after his 
death his palace was partly buried under ground, 
and on top of it Titus built his magnificent and 
extensive baths. 

The Castle of St. Angelo, formerly the mau- 
soleum of Hadrian, and the tomb of subsequent 
emperors to the time of Septimus Severus, was 
during the middle ages converted into a fortress 
and prison. In its donjon cells were confined 
and tortured Galileo and Beatrice Cenci, and the 
square opposite was the scene of the execution of 
that unfortunate girl. The Castle is now con- 
nected with the Vatican by a covered passage, 
and here the popes take refuge in times of trouble. 

The Baths of Caracalla, a superb ruin, were 
built by that emperor in 212, and covered 140,- 
000 square yards. They consisted of swimming, 
hot, and steam baths, with an accommodation for 
1,600 bathers, and were surrounded by pleasure 
grounds and stadium — or course for foot-races. 
Among these ruins were found the marble group 
of the Farnese Bull. 

The Vatican, the residence of the Pope, is the 
largest palace in the world, having 5,000 apart- 
ments and 20 courts. The Sistine chapel con- 
tains the Last Judgment, by Michael Angelo — a 
painting 60 feet in height by 30 in length. The 
Library has 120,000 volumes and manuscripts, 
besides many fine vases, and the largest block of 



AROUND THE WORLD. 211 

malachite known. The Gallery of Sculpture and 
Painting is considered one of the most complete 
and valuable in existence, and comprises among 
its statuary the Apollo Belvidere, the Laocoon, 
Ariadne, and Cleopatra ; among the paintings are 
Raphael's Transfiguration, the Communion of 
St. Jerome, by Domenichino ; the- Baptism of 
Constantine, and the Crucifixion of St. Peter, by 
Guido Reni. In the Museum are, a Roman 
chariot, an iron grating used for cremation, the 
porphyry sarcophagus of the daughter and wife 
of Constantine, and the Pope's state carriage, 
containing his arm-chair, and a seat for his Prime 
Minister. 

Of the other palaces of Rome are, the Royal 
— the residence of the King; the Barberini, in 
which are the portraits of Guido's Beatrice Cenci, 
and Raphael's Fornarina ; the Spada where is the 
marble statue of Pompey — formerly in the Sen- 
ate-chamber — at the base of which '' great Caesar 
fell;" the Borghese, with a valuable collection of 
old and rare paintings ; the Rospigliosi, which 
contains Guido's fresco of Aurora strewing flowers 
before Apollo in his chariot of the Sun ; the Far- 
nese, once the residence of Pope Paul III.; and 
the Borghese villa, in which are the statues of 
Pauline Borghese, by Canova, David with his sling, 
and Daphne being transformed into a laurel tree. 

St. Peter's, the great marvel of ecclesiastical 
architecture, is built on the site of the BasiHca 



212 A TOUR 

erected by Constantine upon that of the Circus of 
Nero, and on the very spot consecrated by the 
blood of the martyrs slaughtered by order of that 
tyrant. The present edifice was begun during the 
reign of Pope Julius in 1506, and completed at a 
cost of $60,000,000, the architects being Bra- 
mante and Michael Angelo. It is built of white 
traverstine stone, in the form of a Latin cross, is 
607 feet in length, 448 in height, and covers 8 
acres of ground. At its entrance are the eques- 
trian statues of Constantine and Charlemagne, and 
its dome is surmounted by a ball capable of hold- 
ing sixteen people. In the interior are 46 altars 
and 400 statues of saints and popes, while the 
dome and walls are covered with beautiful mar- 
bles and glass mosaic pictures. In the centre of 
the church is a bronze baldachino over the re- 
mains of St. Peter and St. Paul ; at the extreme 
end is the gilded tribune containing the chair of 
St. Peter, while his statue in bronze is an object of 
great veneration to the devout, whose kisses, 
through successive generations, have considerably 
reduced the proportions of the toe. In the Sa- 
cristy are the robes of the pope — 14 in number 
— and the crown and mitre of St. Peter, with 
which, on rare occasions, his statue is adorned. 

St. Paul's, next to St. Peter's, is the most 
magnificent church in Rome. It is rich in varie- 
gated marbles, malachite altars, oriental alabaster 
pillars, besides 80 granite columns, and 261 mo- 



AROUND THE WORLD. 21 3 

saic medallions of the popes, from St. Peter to 
Leo XIII. 

Of the remaining 365 churches in Rome, may 
be mentioned that of St. John Lateran, where 
the coronation of the popes take place, and in 
whose Baptistry Charlemagne was crowned. It 
was in its font that Constantine was baptized, and 
Rienzi bathed, for which sacrilegious act he was 
excommunicated by the Church. 

In a building opposite is the Scala Santa — or 
Holy Staircase, supposed to be those of Pilate's 
house which Christ was compelled to ascend to 
receive sentence. On the steps are spots of His 
blood which are reverently kissed by those who 
following His footsteps, ascend on their knees. 
Down this stairway, contrary to usage, Luther 
walked, in defiance of the superstitious reverence 
of the Catholics. 

The Pantheon — as its name signifies — was 
formerly a Pagan temple, in niches of which once 
stood statues of gods and goddesses, now a mau- 
soleum for the late King Victor Emanuel II., and 
for Raphael the artist ; once the scene of the dei- 
fication of heroes, and again that of the canoniza- 
tion of martyrs. 

The Church of Santa Maria dei Angeli, built on 
the site of the Baths of Diocletian, contains several 
fine paintings, and an ancient sun meridian on the 
pavement. 

The Church of St. Peter-in-chains has Michael 



214 A TOUR 

Angelo's statue of Moses, and contains the chains 
which once bound St. Peter. 

In the Church of St. Maria della Concezione 
is Guido Reni's famous painting of St. Michael, 
and in its vaults are the remains of 4,000 departed 
Capuchin monks whose skeletons are ranged in 
hideous and ghastly attitudes. 

The Church of St. Sebastiana is over the Cata- 
combs where St. Sebastian is buried, and contains 
one of the arrows with which he was pierced, and 
a stone bearing a footprint of Christ. 

Among other points of interest in Rome are 
the Temple of Vesta where the Vestal Virgins 
guarded the sacred fire, the Mausoleum of Au- 
gustus now a circus, the Theatre of Marcellus now 
the palace of the Orsini, the Temples of Juno and 
Minerva, the Portico of Octavia, the Baths of 
Agrippa and of Diocletian, the Temple of Fortune, 
the Theatre and Senate-hall of Pompey — the 
place where Caesar fell, the Villa of Sallust, the 
Aqueduct of Nero, the Column of Marcus Aure- 
lius, the Obelisk of Augustus Caesar, the houses 
of Rienzi, Beatrice Cenci, and Tasso, in the latter 
of which the poet died, the Fountain of Treve, the 
Forums of Augustus, Nerva, Domitian, and Tra- 
jan, — the latter containing the column from 
which Napoleon modelled the Column Vendome, 
and the remains of the Sublician Bridge which was 
defended by Horatio alone. 

While in Rome we were especially favored by 



AROUND THE WORLD. 21$ 

an audience with his hoHness Pope Leo XIII. 
The stipulated written requirements of toilet were, 
for gentlemen, full dress, for ladies, black, with lace 
mantillas of the same sombre hue covering the 
head. 

Arriving at the Vatican we passed the Swiss 
Guard, in their gay striped uniforois, and were 
ushered by attendants in red satin and knee- 
breeches through several apartments until we 
reached the one in which we were left to await the 
entrance of the Pope. As he entered, surrounded 
by his cardinals, all present knelt, comformably to 
etiquette, while he passed around the circle laying 
his hand in blessing upon the bowed head of each 
of his visitors. The more devout kissing his foot 
and the hem of his garment. Pope Leo XIII. is 
a man of 70, tall, slender, and very frail, so weak 
as to be unable to walk without assistance. 

We also witnessed the Carnival in Rome 
which begins several days before the commence- 
ment of Lent. The balconies on the Corso were 
decorated with bright-colored bunting, and 
thronged with grotesquely-costumed masquerad- 
ers. Certain days are allotted for the throwing of 
flowers and confetti, but horse-racing down the 
Corso being now abandoned, this festival has lost 
much of its zest, and though mask balls take 
place every night, and other amusements are 
indulged in, the Carnival is altogether inferior to 
that of many other cities. 



2l6 A TOUR 

The Appian way, which extends from Rome 
to Brindisi, was first made in 312 B. C, by Appius 
Claudius. It was bordered with temples, villas, and 
tombs, for it was the custom of the Romans to 
bury their dead on either side of the principal 
roads leading from the city. The monuments yet 
remaining are the Columbraria, or Pagan Sepul- 
chre, which is an underground chamber with 
niches in the walls where were placed the cin- 
erary urns ; the tomb of the Scipios, and that of 
Caecelia Metella, daughter of Crassus. On the 
Via Appia are also the Circus Maximus, where 
the chariot races occurred, and the aqueducts of 
Claudius and Marcia. 

Tivoli is a Sabine town nestling at the foot of 
the mountains. Near it are the romantic villages 
of Santangelo and Monticelli, and en route from 
Rome are passed the camping ground of Hanni- 
bal ; Palatio, where Lucretia killed herself, un- 
able to survive her dishonor, and Gabbi, which 
was taken by the Romans under Tarquin through 
the artifices of his son Sextus. 

Hadrian's Villa, on the slopes of Tivoli, once 
covered an area of several square miles. Its mag- 
nificent grounds unequalled in the Roman Em- 
pire, were designed by Hadrian to combine 
models of all that had most pleased him during 
his travels ; accordingly they comprised palaces, 
temples, theatres, circuses, and many of the finest 
specimens of statuary. This mundane paradise 



AROUND THE WORLD. 21^ 

was destroyed by the Goths in the 6th century, 
and many of the finest of the antique statues were 
uncovered from beneath these ruins. 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

NAPLES : VESUVIUS : HERCULANEUM : POMPEII : CAS- 
TELLAMARE : SORRENTO : CAPRI I CASERTA : BRIN- 
DISI. 

Naples, which was founded by a Greek colony 
i,ooo years B. C, has 450,000 inhabitants, and 
though prettily situated on the curves of the bay 
which bears the same name, is not so fascinating 
that one would wish to ''see Naples and die." 
Approaching from the sea, the city at a distance, 
stretching lazily down to the blue waters, with the 
old fortress of St. Elmo towering in the back- 
ground and mighty Vesuvius standing sentinel, as 
it has stood since the beginning of time, is ex- 
tremely picturesque, but on closer view the pleas- 
ing illusion is dispelled. The streets, with few 
exceptions, are narrow and filthy ; the houses are 
of several stories and swarming with occupants — 
many families huddled under one roof — poor, 
ragged, and uncleanly. 

The Neapolitans as a class are apparently de- 
void of feeling, as is evidenced by their cruelty to 



2l8 A TOUR 

their beasts of burden ; a characteristic feature 
being their country wagons loaded with from 
twenty to thirty people and drawn by one poor, 
staggering animal. 

A strange sight witnessed on the streets of 
Naples is a funeral procession. The coffin — the 
corpse often exposed to view — is borne on an 
open bier by monks of the order of Misericorde 
concealed underneath the velvet pall, while pre- 
ceding and following it are others bearing lighted 
candles, and completely enveloped in white gar- 
ments in which are small openings for the eyes. 

This city is celebrated for its manufacture of 
corals, shell, and maccaroni ; the latter is a favor- 
ite article of diet with the lazzaroni who may be 
seen swallowing it by the yard, as they lounge 
about the streets. 

The fashionable drive extends for several 
miles along the bay, and is bordered on one 
side by the National Park ; here large crowds 
congregate in the cool of the evening to admire 
the views and enjoy the refreshing breeze from 
the sea. 

In Naples are the fine marble statue of Dante, 
and the equestrian figures, in bronze, of Charles 
III. and of Ferdinand I. 

The Royal Palace is of no special interest, 
but adjoining it is the Theatre of San Carlo, at 
the entrance of which are the bronze horses pre- 
sented by the Emperor Nicholas of Russia. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 2ig 

The Castle of St. Elmo is built on a high hill 
overlooking the city. It was erected by Robert 
the Wise in 1343, and its numerous historic remin- 
iscences of love and daring render it an object of 
interest to the romantically inclined. 

The Cathedral is supposed to occupy the site 
of the Temple of Apollo, and ' contains the 
tombs of Charles I. of Anjou, and of Charles 
Martel and his wife Clementina of Hapsburg. 

The Grotto of Posilippo is an old Roman tun- 
nel 750 yards long and 60 feet high, on the road 
between Naples and Puteoli. Over the entrance 
of this tunnel is the tomb of Virgil — a chamber 
containing 10 niches for cinerary urns, that of 
Virgil having once, it is said, occupied the centre 
of the sepulchre. 

The National Museum of Naples is interesting 
and extensive, comprising large collections of 
paintings, mosaics, statues, frescoes, and inscrip- 
tions, many of which were found in the excava- 
tions made in Herculaneum and Pompeii. Here 
are the Farnese Bull, considered one of the finest 
groups of ancient art ; the Psyche of Capua — 
which inspired Bulwer's conception of lone ; — the 
Dancing Faun ; a mosaic pavement bearing the 
figure of a dog, from the house of Glaucus; shop- 
signs from Pompeii ; and the marble pillar which 
stood in its forum, upon which is a bronze plate 
that once served as a bulletin board ; also the re- 
mains of fruit, milk, loaves of bread, a variety of 



250' A TOUR 

household utensils, and a Roman calendar on a 
square block of marble, each side embracing the 
period of three months. 

Taking a conveyance with three horses, from 
Naples we drove a distance of 6 miles to Hercu- 
laneum. This town, which with Pompeii was 
overwhelmed by an eruption of Vesuvius, unlike 
the latter was buried under lava, to the depth of 
80 feet, which in cooling acquired the consistency 
of stone, rendering excavations virtually imprac- 
ticable ; so far the principal building unearthed is 
the theatre which once seated 10,000 people. 

From Herculaneum we commenced the ascent 
of Vesuvius, the road winding for five miles up 
the mountain in the midst of a vast stretch of lava 
in its various stages of induration. At the foot of 
the cone a chain-railway ascends almost perpen- 
dicularly a distance of one mile ; from here we 
were borne in chairs on the shoulders of excited 
Neapolitans to the crater. At this point the 
ground was a mass of steaming, yellow sulphur; 
sulphurous clouds, with their asphyxiating fumes, 
hovered around, wavering and dispersing here and 
there before the violence of the ascending flame. 
Up from the seething cauldron of the crater, red- 
hot stones and liquid lava were thrown with 
incredible force high in air; and far below, from 
the very bowels of the earth, issued low, rumbling, 
ominous sounds, all uniting in one vivid concep- 
tion of hell. 



AROUND TPIE WORLD. 221 

Pompeii, which contained 40,000 inhabitants, 
was overwhelmed A. D. 79, by an eruption of 
Vesuvius, and remained buried under the ashes 
for 1,700 years. Walking through this dead city, 
its silent streets, which are well paved, though 
worn in deep ruts by the wheels of chariots, its 
sidewalks bordered with straight lines of houses 
and shops in a surprising state of preservation, 
one almost expects to meet the inhabitants at 
every turn. Here are public buildings — the 
Forum with its temples and basilicas; theatres for 
tragedy and comedy ; shops, with their fixtures 
and utensils; baths, fountains, the Temple of Isis, 
houses of pleasure with the frescoes still visible 
upon their walls; private residences from the cot- 
tage of the poor to the mansion of the patrician, 
including those of Arbaces the Egyptian, Glaucus 
the tragic poet, lone, and Sallust, and the Villa of 
Diomedes the wealthy, an edifice twelve stories 
in height, in whose cellars 17 human bodies were 
found in various attitudes showing their efforts to 
escape. 

Leading from the Herculaneum Gate is the 
Street of Tombs lined on either side by sepul- 
chral monuments. 

Castellamare occupies the site of Stabia, which 
was destroyed by an earthquake A. D. 79 : from 
here we witnessed the strange and fearful sight of 
a river of red-hot lava rolling slowly down the 
sides of Vesuvius. 



222 A TOUR 

The drive from here to Sorrento is a dehghtful 
one, skirting the blue shores of the bay, winding 
along the base of the mountains, crossing ravines 
and passing picturesque villages. 

Sorrento, with a fine view of Vesuvius and the 
Bay of Naples, is celebrated as the birthplace of 
Tasso — 1544. Here the Tarantella is danced in 
all its original grace and vivacity by the peasants 
in their picturesque costumes. 

The Island of Capri, ten miles from Sorrento, 
is 1980 feet above the level of the sea, and is 
chiefly noted for its Blue Grotto. This is an in- 
terior space 160x80 feet in extent, and 40 feet in 
height above the water, which is 8 fathoms deep. It 
is entered by an aperture only three feet high — 
ingress being impossible during high tide — and 
the visitor is compelled to recline in the boat as 
it passes imder the low portal. The Grotto is 
lighted only from the opening, and the reflection 
from the deep-blue water gives a weird and indes- 
cribable effect to the scene. 

Brindisi, once the great seaport town of the 
Romans on the Adriatic, is the terminus of the 
Via Appia, and is noted as the place where Caesar 
beseiged Pompey, and where Virgil died 19 B. C. 

Taking steamer of the Peninsular and Oriental 
Line, at Brindisi, we skirted the shores of Albania 
and Greece, passing the islands of Corfu, Kepha- 
lonia, and Crete, arriving, after a three days' 
sail, on the coast of Africa, 



AROUND THE WORLD. 223 



CHAPTER XIX. 

ALEXANDRIA : CAIRO : HELIOPOLIS : PYRAMIDS OF GIZEH : 
THE NILE : TEL-EL-KEBIR : PORT SAID. 

Alexandria, situated on a peninsula between 
Lake Mareotis and the sea, was founded by Alex- 
ander the Great, 332 B. C. It was once celebrated 
for its library of 700,000 volumes, which was 
established by Ptolemy Philadelphus, 284 B. C, 
and partly destroyed by Julius Caesar ; also for 
its lighthouse Pharos, the seventh wonder of the 
world. 

It was in Alexandria the Christian religion 
first took root, and here St. Mark preached the 
Gospel. 

One of the few relics of antiquity yet remain- 
ing is Pompey's Pillar — a red granite column 100 
feet high, on which is a Greek inscription showing 
that it was erected by Publius, prefect of Egypt, 
in honor of Diocletian who besieged and took 
Alexandria, 296 A. D. 

Its population numbered at one time 500,000, 
but the present census shows only 212,000 inhabi- 
tants. The city has many fine streets and build- 
ings, but the heart of it is in ruins, having been 
burned by Arabi's soldiers on evacuating, and the 



224 A TOUR 

fortifications surrounding the city were dismantled 
by the EngHsh in the late bombardment. 

The rail from Alexandria to Cairo — a distance 
of 131 miles — runs parallel with the canal and 
wagon road, and affords scenes of varied interest: 
here groups of natives scantily clothed ; there 
caravans laden with merchandise ; and frequently 
an immense camel, a buffalo, and a tiny donkey 
yoked together to a primitive wooden plough, or 
employed turning a sakieh — a wheel upon 
which are fastened earthen jugs to dip up water for 
irrigating purposes. Again at short distances is 
seen the shadoof, — a long pole balanced on an up- 
right one, at one end of which is a weight, and on 
the other a vessel which is lowered into the water 
and raised filled ; and a still more primitive 
mode of irrigation is that of men dipping up the 
water in mat baskets and pouring it over the 
earth, while others direct its course with their 
bare feet, as described in the Bible. 

Cairo, founded by the Arabs, is situated near 
the right bank of the Nile, and has a population 
of 350,000. It is the largest city in Africa, and 
the residence of the Khedive, and next to Con- 
stantinople the most important city of the Mo- 
hammedan world. 

Cairo is built on low ground, partly surrounded 
by low, rugged, and barren hills. Many of its 
streets are wide, well paved, and bordered witli 
tropical trees, and its hundreds of mosques and 



AROUND THE WORLD. 225 

minarets viewed from an eminence, combine to 
make a picture of Oriental beauty : but the pas- 
sage-ways of the older, native portion of the city 
are narrow, dirty, and crowded, and it is both dif- 
ficult and disagreeable to thread one's way through 
its swarms of debased humanity. 

On the streets of Cairo one sees Oriental life in 
its native aspect ; the various sects and ranks 
arrayed in their distinctive garbs, the ladies of the 
harems — attended by the inevitable black eunuchs 
— richly dressed and be-jewelled, with thin gauze 
covering their faces below the eyes, and their 
finger-nails stained with the red henna; the fat 
Turk astride a small donkey whose deafening bray 
protests, to the extent of its no small ability, 
against the thickly falling blows of the urchin wdio 
follows on behind for that purpose ; hundreds of 
camels moaning under their heavy loads; the 
water-carriers selling water from their dirty goat- 
skins ; the oil dealers with their primitive jars, 
recalling so vividly the story of the Forty 
Thieves ; and the grand official in his equipage 
before which run two bare-legged Arabs in gold- 
embroidered jackets, loose white trousers, and red 
fez, with long sticks in their hands, shouting, in 
loud tones, a command to clear the way for the 
high and mighty Somebody ; all of which gives 
a suggestion of out-door life at Cairo, and recalls 
at every turn vivid scenes from the Arabian 
Nights. 

15 



226 A TOUR 

The people as a class, are filthy, ignorant, and 
mendicant, and owing to the combined influences 
of indolence and cowardice, the men mutilate 
themselves in order to avoid being drafted into 
.the army. The turban is held in high favor by 
the Egyptian, especially by the fellahs : it con- 
sists of a light, white material wound around the 
fez, and is always of sufficient length to be con- 
verted into a shroud. The women are partial to 
jewelry, often wearing rings in their noses. They 
carry their infants astride their left shoulder or 
hip, and the children, not being allowed to brush 
the flies from their faces owing to some religious 
prejudice, are conseciuently generally blind or sore- 
eyed. 

The bazaars occupy several squares of the nar- 
rowest streets w^hich are roofed over with straw 
mats and palm-leaves effectually excluding the 
glare and heat of the sun. The shops are two feet 
above the level of the street, and are from five to 
ten feet square, each one having its own specialty, 
and the aggregate presenting an array of almost 
every commodity desired. 

The Citadel stands on a high hill, and com- 
mands a fine view of the city. It is surrounded 
by a wall, and in its inclosure is the palace of the 
pasha, and the magnificent mosque of Mohammed 
Ali, built of Oriental alabaster, and the finest in 
Egypt. Within the citadel is Joseph's Well — a 
square shaft 15 feet across and 280 deep — cut in 



AROUND THE WORLD. 22/ 

the solid rock, at the bottom of which donkeys 
are kept at work forcing the water to the top. 
This well is supposed to be the work of the ancient 
Egyptians and was discovered by the Sultan 
Saladin while erecting the citadel, who called it 
Yusef — or Joseph — after himself It was from 
the outer wall of this citadel that occurred the 
memorable leap of the mameluke Emin Bey, who 
being entrapped, wnth 300 of his comrades, by 
Mohammed Ali, and seeing them all perish before 
his eyes, urged his horse over the precipice to the 
frightful depths below, and thus effected his 
escape. 

The Mosque of Sultan Hassan is considered 
the finest existing specimen of Arabian architec- 
ture, and its high dome and lofty minarets present 
a majestic appearance. It is said the Sultan was so 
much pleased with its construction that he caused 
the hands of the architect to be cut off to prevent 
him from designing another like it. 

The Mosque of Tayloon, the most ancient in 
Cairo, is partly in ruins and according to one 
legend occupies the spot where Abraham sacri- 
ficed the goat in place of his son Isaac, and is 
called Kal-at-el- Rebsh — or Castle of the Goat. 
Another legend points out this spot as being the 
place where Noah's ark ran aground on the loth 
of Moharrem which is the first month of the 
Arabian year, and observed as a great festival in 
this country. 



228 A TOUR 

The Palace of Shoobra, in whose court there is 
a small lake around which are ranged divans 
where the Sultan and his suite were wont to lounge, 
sipping their coffee and smoking their nargileh, 
was the summer residence of Mohammed Ali. It 
is four miles beyond the city precincts, and is 
reached by a beautiful avenue shaded on either 
side by the flowering acacia. This is the favorite 
drive of the people of Cairo, and on a Sunday af- 
ternoon the Khedive may be seen there in royal 
state, escorted by a mounted guard. 

The tombs of the Mamelukes and Caliphs at 
the foot of the citadel resemble miniature mos- 
ques, and are not only picturesque in appearance 
but are interesting from their historic associa- 
tions. 

Old Cairo, which is a short distance from the 
new city, and now almost a mass of ruins, is built 
on the site of new Babylon, which was founded by 
the Babylonians in the year 525 B. C. 

The Jewish Synagogue is claimed by the Jews 
to have been the place where Elijah once ap- 
peared, and where Moses prayed for the cessation 
of the seventh plague of lightning and hail. In 
a niche, within this edifice, guarded with jealous 
care is a scroll of the Thorah said to be written 
by the hand of Ezra. 

The old Coptic Church contains some very 
ancient pictures, and carvings in wood and ivory, 
and is built over a subterranean cave in which 



AROUND THE WORLD. 229 

Joseph and Mary with the Infant Jesus dwelt for 
a time on reaching Egypt after the Flight. 

The Boolak Museum has the finest collection 
of Egyptian antiquities in the world, comprising 
sarcophagi, mummies, hieroglyphics, statues, 
sphinxes, ornaments and other relics found in the 
tombs and temples of the ancient Egyptians. 
Among the objects most noted are the mummy 
of Rameses II. — supposed to be the Pharaoh of 
the Exodus, — and the Village Sheik — a wooden 
statue said to be thousands of years old. In a 
granite sarcophagus lie the remains of Mariette 
Bey, who devoted his life to unearthing these rehcs. 

The island of Rhodda is in the Nile, directly 
opposite ancient Cairo, and contains the Nilo- 
meter — a graduated stone pillar 40 feet high, 
covered with measures indicating the rise and fall 
of the river, and is placed in a well some 20 feet 
square, and 50 deep. The minimum tide of the 
river is 32 feet; 40 feet is considered the desirable 
medium ; and the maximum of 42 entails incal- 
culable destruction. In August when the Nile 
is sufficiently high for irrigating purposes, the 
embankment of the river is cut, and the ceremony 
attended wdth great rejoicing and festivities. On 
the upper end of the island of Rhodda is located 
the spot where Moses was found in the bulrushes 
by Pharaoh's daughter. 

The Howling Dervishes comprise a religious 
sect who meet in their temple every Friday — the 



230 A TOUR 

Mohammedan Sabbath — for the celebration of 
their rehgious rites. Forming a circle around 
the priest, they frantically sway their bodies back 
and forth to the frightful accompaniment of their 
howls and wails, and the beating of tabors, a 
species of drum. Many of these are old men, 
half-clad, with long white hair waving with the 
motion of their swaying bodies. 

The Kieswah is a Holy Carpet which Cairo 
sends to the Kaaba at Mecca, once a year. This 
is conveyed on the back of a camel, and escorted 
by thousands of pilgrims ; who, on their return, 
deeming themselves prepared to die, prostrate 
themselves on the ground, to be trampled under 
foot by a horse ridden by the Sheik ; and blessed 
is the man whose injuries are the most severe. 

The ancient city of Heliopolis — an hour's 
drive from Cairo, is marked only by a single 
obelisk of red granite, 70 feet in height, supposed 
to be the oldest extant. 

Near this are the Tree and Well of the Virgin, 
where the Holy Family first rested after their 
Flight into Egypt. In this neighborhood grew 
the celebrated Balsam shrub, the balm of which 
is said to have been presented to Solomon by 
the Queen of Sheba. 

The Pyramids of Gizeh, a drive of an hour 
and a half from Cairo, are nine in number, and 
surrounded by ruins of temples and tombs partly 
buried beneath the sands of centuries. These 



AROUND THE WORLD. 23! 

monuments, which are supposed to be the tombs 
of early Egyptian kings, are built of enormous 
stone blocks, and were originally covered with 
white marble casings. Of this number three 
are of immense proportions, the largest being 
classed among the seven wonders of the world. 

Cheops, the largest of these pyramids is 820 
feet across its base on each of its four sides ; and 
470 feet in height, not including 15 feet already 
lost from the apex, which leaves a flat surface of 
120 square yards. The interior is entered by a 
small opening 48 feet from the ground ; first 
through a long descending inclined passage of 
polished granite at an angle of 26 degrees which 
afterwards ascends as abruptly, and leads to the 
King's Chamber. This room is the largest in the 
pyramid, being 19 feet high, 17 wide, and 34 
long ; and is of polished granite. In it is a stone 
sarcophagus which is supposed to have contained 
the mummy of a king, or ancient records. On 
each side of this room are air-tubes for purposes 
of ventilation ; and above it are five small cham- 
bers difficult of access. At the end of the Great 
Hall which is 155 feet long and 28 high, is a pas- 
sage leading to the Queen's Chamber ; and a shaft 
150 feet deep, known as the well, which descends 
to the lower passage, and connects with a sub- 
terranean chamber. The difficult ascent of this 
pyramid we accomplished with the aid of four 
Bedouin Arabs, each ; one at each hand, above, 



232 A TOUR 

to pull, and two others below, to push. The 
descent was scarcely less perilous : with a strong 
rope about our waists, held by one of our Bed- 
ouins while the others lent support, we jumped 
from block to block, scarcely daring to look be- 
low, lest a misstep should hurl us into Eternity. 

An exploration of the interior of the pyramid 
though attended by less danger, is accompanied 
by a far greater degree of discomfort, owing to 
the foul air, heat, and darkness. 

While many scientists believe these to have 
been constructed as mausolea for the Pharaohs, 
others contend they were built before the flood, 
for astronomical purposes, or as receptacles for 
historical archives. These gigantic structures 
will yet, in all probability yield up to the world 
the secrets of past ages, for in exploring Cheops 
soundings in its interior developed the fact of the 
existence of chambers yet unrevealed. 

The Sphinx, the oldest and most famous 
monument in the world, supposed to have existed 
2,000 years before the pyramids, is the recumbent 
form of a lion with the head of a man hewn from 
the natural lime stone rock. It measures 128 feet 
in length; 66 feet from the paws to the crown of 
the head; the ears are 4^ feet long; the nose 5 
feet 7 inches ; the mouth 7 feet 7 inches in width ; 
and the extreme breadth of face 13 feet 8 inches. 
Investigation developed the existence of two 
wells within the body partially filled in with sand, 



AROUND THE WORLD. 233 

and from the top of the head a shaft descending 
a depth of six feet in which the priests probably 
concealed themselves in order to work upon the 
superstitious fears of the credulous with mys- 
terious and oracular enunciations. 

The Sphinx was the deity of the ancient 
Egyptians ; and offerings were made before an 
altar between its paws ; the smoke of their sacri- 
ficial fires issuing from its nostrils. This silent 
figure, defying time, immovable as the fixed stars ; 
enthroned amid these desert wastes for thousands 
of years, has witnessed the rise and fall of na- 
tions; mighty cities springing from nothingness, 
wielding their powerful sceptres, and descending 
into the abyss of oblivion ; has gazed undaunted 
into the face of Osiris, the Sun-king, and looked 
down upon the countless myriads of grovelling 
humanity who have passed away forever. 

The Temple of the Sphinx and a mausoleum 
recently discovered by Campbell the explorer, lie 
near by, buried to the depth of 100 feet in the 
sand ; and surrounding them on all sides are 
partially exhumed tombs and temples. 

Leaving Cairo by boat for a three weeks' trip 
up the Nile, we made our first landing at Badra- 
chin, and mounting donkeys set out to visit the 
ruins of the far-famed ancient city of Memphis, 
once the capital of Lower Egypt and one of the 
greatest cities of antiquity. These ruins retain 
but few vestiges of past grandeur ; the most con- 



234 A TOUR 

spicuous object of interest being the Serapeum — 
the tomb of the sacred Bulls Apis which contains 
24 gigantic sarcophagi, of granite and black 
marble, each 1 1 feet high and 1 8 feet long, 
highly polished and inscribed with hiero- 
glyphics. Above this tomb once stood the 
temple in which the sacred bulls were worshipped. 
The Egyptians believed that the soul of Osiris, 
after his death, became incarnated in the body of 
a bull, — born of a virgin cow, — which they called 
Apis ; this animal was distinguished by certain 
marks required also in his successors ; these con- 
sisted of a triangular white spot on the forehead, 
the figure of an eagle on the back, a white cres- 
cent on the right side, and a sacred scarabaeus — 
or beetle — under the tongue. To the god Apis 
were assigned a temple, two chapels, and a court 
for exercise, and his food was served in vessels of 
gold. On attaining the age of 25 years he was 
drowned by the priests in the sacred cistern ; and 
his body carefully embalmed and placed in one of 
the sarcophagi in the Serapeum, when the whole 
country was thrown into mourning until a suc- 
cessor had been announced. Among the other 
ruins of Memphis are immense prostrate stone 
figures of Rameses II. and those of his wife and 
daughter, the pyramids of Sakkara, and the 
tombs of Onas and Ti. 

Returning to the Nile we sailed past the 
False Pyramid, the villages of Wasta and Fesh- 



AROUND THE WORLD. 235 

neh, and the mountain Gebel-el-Dayr, on the 
summit of which stands a Coptic convent, and 
landed at Minieh which contains a fine palace, 
and the extensive sugar factory belonging to the 
Khedive. 

Further up the river are the tombs of Beni- 
Hassan, chambers cut in the solid rock far up the 
hill, and supposed to be the oldest tombs of the 
kind in Egypt. These are ornamented with 
figures of animals, fish, and birds, and designs 
representing the life and customs of ancient times, 
in all of which the imperishable red and blue are 
almost as distinct as when painted thousands of 
years ago. One tomb is dedicated to Pasht the 
Egyptian Diana ; in another is the Grecian Doric 
column — unique in Egypt ; and beneath all 
are pits where numerous mummies were found. 

A few miles beyond are the ruins of Antino- 
opolis — - a city built by the Emperor Hadrian to 
commemorate the death of his beautiful favorite 
Antinous who drowned himself in the Nile ; and 
along the river for twelve miles are the celebrated 
Crocodile mummy-pits, cut in the rock of Mount 
Gebel-abou-faydah. 

Assioot, the metropolis of Upper Egypt stands 
on the site of ancient Lycopolis or city of wolves, 
a place noted for the worship of these animals. 
It is the terminus of the railway from Cairo ; is 
the residence of a pasha, has a fine palace, mosque 
and bazaar, and was once the principal slave 



236 A TOUR 

market in Egypt. From the mountain in the 
rear of the town is a fine view of the valley of the 
Nile, and numberless tombs extend under the 
hill below. 

The ruins of Abydos are situated six miles 
back of Girgeh at the base of the Libyan 
mountains. They at one time ranked next to 
those of Thebes, and owed their importance to 
the fact that the god Osiris was buried here ; and 
wealthy Egyptians from all parts of the country 
desired to have their bodies lie in the sacred dust 
which their god had hallowed. The prin- 
cipal ruins yet remaining are the Temple of Setee 
I., the Temple of Rameses II., and the Necropolis. 

Here, in the Temple of Osiris, the Tablet of 
Abydos — or list of Pharaohs was found, which 
is now one of the most valuable objects in the 
British Museum. 

Keneh is a place of considerable importance ; 
chiefly noted for its porous jugs, and dates. 
From here we made an excursion across the river 
to the Temple of Denderah, one of the finest and 
best preserved on the Nile, dedicated to the god- 
dess Hathor — the Egyptian Venus; the ceil- 
ing which is carved with the signs of the 
zodiac, is supported by 24 massive pillars with 
beautiful capitals ; the outer wall has the cartouch 
and figure of Cleopatra with that of her son the 
young Caesarion by Julius Caesar ; while on the 
portico, erected by the Emperor Tiberius, is the 



AROUND THE WORLD. 237 

name of that monarch with those of Claudius, 
Nero, CaHgula, Caesar and Ptolemy. 

Luxor, a place of debarkation, is a small Arab 
village on the site, and in the midst of one of the 
finest ruins of Thebes. It was here at the Consul's 
house we witnessed the Egyptian Nautch or muscle 
dance, rendered by the native women to perfection. 

Thebes extended for seven miles on both 
sides of the river. It was the most celebrated 
and the most magnificent of all the ancient cap- 
itals of Egypt, and was the capital of the king- 
dom of the Pharaohs when in the zenith of their 
power. Looking upon these ruins of a long past 
grandeur — these palaces, temples, and tombs of 
extinct races, one gathers a faint conception of 
the customs and habits of its people. 

The Temple of Luxor 800 feet long by 200 
broad, has yet many magnificent columns stand- 
ing, and at the main entrance are three colossal 
statues of kings. In front of these once stood 
two granite obelisks ; one of which was presented 
to Louis Philippe, and now stands in the Place de 
la Concorde, Paris ; while the one remaining, 
bears less evidence of the ravages of time than 
any other in the world. 

The ruins of Karnak — a portion of Thebes — 
comprise a vast collection of palaces, temples, 
obelisks, and columns from 80 to 100 feet high, 
and avenues of sphinxes surpassing in grandeur 
and extent all other ruins on the Nile. 



238 A TOUR 

On the opposite side of the river, extending 
back eight miles, and strewing the plain where 
once stood the western portion of Thebes, yet re- 
main the ruins of the temples of Medeenet Haboo, 
Koorneh, and the palace-temple Memnonium or 
Rameseum. Near the latter is the prostrate 
colossal figure of Rameses IL, weighing 1,000 tons 
and measuring 63 feet around the shoulders, the 
largest statue ever hewn from a solid block of 
granite. This king, supposed to be the Pharaoh 
of the Exodus, after having conquered the then 
known world, in order to perpetuate his memory, 
built the Rameseum as a lasting memorial of his 
greatness and glory. 

The Colossi are two sitting figures in stone, 60 
feet high, well preserved, and in all probability, 
statues of Amenophis II. or III., and once guarded 
here the entrance of the Temple-palace of this 
Pharaoh, ** who knew not Joseph." One of these 
known as the vocal Memnon was celebrated for 
the musical sounds said to issue from the statue 
when touched by the first rays of the morning 
sun ; and the religious and poetic version is that 
it represents Memnon, a king of Egypt, who was 
killed by Achilles at the siege of Troy, and the 
dew-drops which appear in the morning are the 
tears which Aurora sheds for her son. 

In a desolate valley in the heart of the Libyan 
Mountains are situated the Tombs of the Kings 
excavated in the solid rock, some of which are 470 



AROUND THE WORLD. 239 

feet deep, and extend for half a mile into the 
mountain, the walls and ceilings being decorated 
with carvings and paintings representing every 
phase of Egyptian life. The finest of these are 
the tomb of Setee L, father of Rameses II., in 
which was found a beautiful alabaster sar- 
cophagus; the tomb of Rameses III. in which 
are the paintings of the famous harpists ; those 
of Rameses IV., Rameses VI., and Rameses IX., 
and that of the rich priest Assef: while others 
contained the mummified bodies of animals of 
various kinds. 

Returning to Luxor, where our steamer was 
awaiting us, after an exploring tour which occu- 
pied three days, we continued up the river to 
Esna. 

Here is a palace of Mohammed Ali, and in the 
centre of the town the portico of the Temple of 
Keneph with its 24 columns 19 feet in circumfer- 
ence and 65 feet in height, whose capitals repre- 
sent the doum palm, the vine, and the papyrus. 
Of the temple which is entirely covered up, this 
portion alone has been excavated, and is one of 
the most beautiful and well preserved on the Nile. 

Edfoo is the next place of importance reached, 
and its temple one of the grandest monuments of 
Egypt. Its entire length is 440x200 feet ; it was 
built by Ptolomaeus Philometer, 180 B. C. and 
was dedicated to the god Horhat, and to Athor, 
his mother, the Egyptian Venus. In one cham- 



240 A TOUR 

ber, beautifully ornamented with carvings, is a 
grey granite monolith in which was kept the 
sacred hawk. 

At Gebel Silsileh are the quarries from which 
the ancient kings of Egypt procured the stones for 
erecting the mammoth structures at Luxor, Kar- 
nak, and Medeenet Haboo ; and here where the 
river is very narrow, a chain was thrown across 
by an ancient king to arrest navigation. 

The Temple of Kom Omboo, 18 miles further 
up, is fast going to decay and falling into the 
river. It comprises two temples, one dedicated to 
Light and the other to Darkness, the latter conse- 
crated to the crocodile god Sebek ; the tank is 
still to be seen where the sacred crocodile bathed, 
and the brick terrace where he sunned himself. 
Besides this animal, cats, wolves, and birds were 
worshipped by the ancient Egyptians, as is proved 
by the numbers found mummified in the surround- 
ing caves. 

Asswan is the border town between Egypt 
and Nubia, and the terminus of navigation for the 
large Nile steamers. In its bazaars are to be pur- 
chased the skins of serpents and wild beasts, ele- 
phants* tusks, ostrich eggs and plumes, and 
various other articles peculiar to the country. 
Here the Nubian, black as night, first makes his 
appearance, his naked body shining with oil, and 
hair grotesquely arranged. The wardrobe of 
many of the women consists of but a leathern 



AROUND THE WORLD 24I 

girdle fringed out and ornamented with shells, 
while their kinky hair is worn plaited in multitu- 
dinous small braids. The childrens' attire is of 
an even more primitive description — a ring in 
the right nostril, and three or four in each ear, to 
complete which elaborate costume a cord is some- 
times worn around the waist. The Nubians, as a 
race, are less corrupt than the Egyptians, and 
decidedly more dignified, frank and cheerful. 

In the river opposite Asswan is the island of 
Elephantine, where there are ruins of temples and 
statues, and also of a Nilometer. 

In the mountains beyond are the famous 
granite quarries from which were wrought the 
colossal statue of Rameses, and the obelisks now 
at Heliopolis, Alexandria, Constantinople, Paris, 
London, and New York. A monolith 100 feet 
long and twelve feet square at the base is still 
here, never having been removed from the quarry, 
and like its mates is of a light red color sprinkled 
with green, very hard and susceptible of the high- 
est polish. 

The great problem to the inquiring mind is 
the means used by the ancients in cutting into 
this adamantine material ; from a thorough ex- 
amination and from the numbers of partly-hewn 
blocks abandoned on account of the rock having 
split in a contrary direction, it is reasonable to 
suppose that holes were cut in line, plugged with 
wood and soaked with water which, expanding 

16 



242 A TOUR 

these wedges, divided the rock and accomplished 
with long and tedious labor the work which 
modern machinery achieves with so much ease. 

The first Nile cataract, seven miles above 
Asswan, is a series of rapids down which the 
Nubian boys float or shoot on logs, to amuse 
spectators, after which they vociferously demand 
backsheesh — a gift of money. 

The Island of Philae in Nubia, above the first 
cataract, is by far the most picturesque spot on 
the Nile. It is surrounded by wild and rocky 
scenery, while the island itself is covered with 
rich verdure, and groves of palm and acacia, in- 
termingle with beautiful ruins. These consist 
of the Temple of Isis, Pharaoh's Bed, — formerly 
the Temple of Osiris, and the Temple of Athor. 
Philae was the last stronghold of the Egyptian 
faith, and here Osiris, Isis, and Horus were 
worshipped 60 years after the Egyptian religion 
was abolished by Theodosius. 

This was the terminus of our trip up the Nile, 
and from here we turned our faces towards 
Cairo and lazily floated down the river. 

The rail from Cairo to Port Said, a distance 
of 150 miles, follows the Sweetwater canal which 
supplies the stations, and towns on the Suez canal 
with drinking-water, and runs through that Land 
of Goshen so fertile in olden times, but now a 
b'arren and sandy desert. The principal places 
of importance passed are Belbeis and Bordein, 



AROUND THE WORLD. 243 

near the latter of which are the remains of 
the ancient city of Bubastis — in the Coptic 
language Pi-Beseth — the city of which Ezekiel 
prophesied that it should go into captivity, and 
its young men fall by the sword. 

Tel-el-Kebir passed en route, is a dirty Arab 
village of no importance, but rendered notable as 
the scene of the decisive battle of the recent 
Egyptian war fought on September 13th, 1882, 
when Arabi was vanquished by the English, and 
his army of 30,000 men destroyed and taken 
prisoners. 

In taking steamer from Port Said to cross the 
Mediterranean for a sixteen hours' sail to Jaffa, we 
left with regret this ancient and interesting coun- 
try strewn with colossal ruins which speak so 
plainly of a past and powerful nation ; for, to see 
the palaces and monuments of Egypt is to see the 
Egyptians as they lived and moved before the 
eyes of Abraham and Moses, to see the temples 
and tombs of Egypt is to see the Egyptians in 
the most solemn moments of their lives. 



244 -^ TOUR 



CHAPTER XX. 

JAFFA : LATROON : JERUSALEM : SOLOMON's POOLS : 
HEBRON : BETHLEHEM : MAR SABA : THE DEAD SEA : 
RIVER JORDAN : JERICHO. 

Palestine is a long strip of land bordering the 
Mediterranean, and is bounded on the east by the 
river Jordan. It is nowhere over 50 miles in 
breadth, and from Dan to Beersheba 180 miles 
in length. The country is hilly and mountain- 
ous, and with the exception of a few green val- 
leys is rocky and barren. Only from Jaffa to 
Jerusalem, and Baalbec to Beyrout, are wheels 
available, and what here are called roads are sim- 
ply rocky paths which only a sure-footed horse 
and experienced rider can travel. 

This is the ancient Canaan or Palestine, so 
called by the Israelites who were expelled thence, 
three tribes of which, Reuben, Gad, and Man- 
nasseh having territory assigned to them east of 
the Jordan. In the time of Moses they num- 
bered over 2,000,000, but the present population 
is probably only 700,000, who are mostly Arabs, 
Turks, Mohammedans, Druses, Jews, Armenians, 
Greeks, Syrians, and Latins. 

Jaffa, the ancient Joppa, has a population of 



AROUND THE WORLD. 245 

8,000, and tradition says was first founded by 
Japhet, son of Noah. It is the principal seaport 
town of Palestine, and has the worst harbor in the 
world ; the rugged and projecting rocks rendering 
a landing dangerous at all times and impossible in 
stormy weather. 

Here Andromeda was chained to the rock un- 
til rescued by Perseus from the devouring mon- 
ster; here Noah built his ark, and Jonah em- 
barked for Tarshish — instead of going by 
Divine command to Nineveh, and on which voy- 
age he was swallowed by the whale : here Solo- 
mon received the cedars of Lebanon from 
Hiram, king of Tyre for building his temple, 
and here Peter recalled Tabitha to life (Acts, 
IX. — 36—41). Here also is the house of '* one 
Simon the tanner," where Peter on the house-top 
saw^ the vision of animals let down in a sheet from 
heaven (Acts, X. — S-16). 

Jaffa was taken by Napoleon in 1799 after an 
obstinate and bloody siege, and it is said that 
previous to his retreat across the desert he caused 
1,200 Turkish prisoners to be cruelly put to 
death. 

At Jaffa we made a contract for a tour of 30 
days or more through Palestine and Syria, and 
selected three tents, a dragoman (Antonio Mac- 
louf), a cook, waiter, and six muleteers, besides 3 
good riding-horses and seven mules for transpor- 
tation. 



246 A TOUR 

From Jaffa to Jerusalem we passed en route 
Lydda, in the plain of Sharon where St. George 
killed the Dragon; Ramleh with its ancient 
tower, where were buried 40 Christian martyrs, 
and where we first met victims of that scourge 
of the East — leprosy, in the various stages 
of the loathsome disease : the locality where 
Samson caught his 300 foxes and tied brands 
to their tails to burn his enemies' grain fields, 
and stopped for the night at Latroon in the valley 
of Ajalon, where Joshua commanded the sun 
and moon to stand still (Joshua, X. — 12). 

Next day we visited the village near by, where 
the penitent thief was born, and the cave where 
the two thieves lived while committing their rob- 
beries, and entered into the land of the tribe of 
Benjamin, passed Kirjathjearim, Job's Well, the 
site of the house of Abinadab, where the Ark of 
the Covenant was kept (I. Samuel, VII. — 1-2), 
the town of Ain-Karim, w^here St. John the 
Baptist was born, and where the Virgin visited 
her cousin Elizabeth (Luke, I. — 39-60) ; the site 
of Emmaus, where Christ appeared to Cleopas 
(Luke, XXIV. — 13-31); looked upon the two hills 
where the army of Saul and that of the Phil- 
istines confronted each other ; and picked up a 
pebble from the stream which flows between, at 
the identical place where tradition says David 
selected the stone with which he killed the giant 
Goliath. 



AROUND TUfi WOkLD. 247 

After passing the site of ancient Gezer, which 
one of the Pharaohs of Egypt took from the 
Canaanites and gave to his daughter the wife of 
Solomon (I. Kings, IX. — 16), we saw the moun- 
tains of Moab in the distance, and those '* round 
about Jerusalem ;" and riding through the Valley 
of Gihon, in which Solomon was anointed king 
over Israel, we entered the Holy City through the 
Jaffa Gate. 

Jerusalem which is called, even by the Mo- 
hammedans, the Blessed City, is situated on a 
sloping hill surrounded by a stone wall 3 miles in 
circumference, which is 40 feet high and some 3 
feet in thickness. It has 34 towers, and is entered 
by 7 gates — that of Damascus on the north, of 
St. Stephen on the east, Jaffa on the west, and 
Zion and Dung on the south; the latter being low 
and crooked, was anciently called the Needle's 
Eye, hence the saying: '' It is harder for the rich 
man to enter the kingdom of Heaven, than for a 
camel to pass through the eye of a needle," while 
Herod's and the Golden Gate, have long since 
been walled up. Jerusalem has a population of 
36,000 inhabitants, one-third of which is Moham- 
medan, one-third Jew, and the remainder Copt, 
Assyrian, Persian, Syrian, Greek, and Latin. 

The streets, some of which are arched over, 
are narrow and filthy, and the houses and shops 
shabby and neglected. This is Jerusalem the 
Golden, the city that men call the perfection of 



248 A TOUR 

beauty, which apart from its historical as- 
sociation appears not worth possessing, even with- 
out the trouble of conquest. 

On the high ground to the north overlooking 
Jerusalem is the point from which Titus made his 
attack ; here is the grotto where Jeremiah wrote 
his lamentations ; and the tombs of the kings and 
judges : these are many in number, cut in the 
solid rock, their entrances being closed by means 
of large round stones which fitted into grooves 
and required great strength to remove. On the 
west is the Valley of Hinnon, with the upper and 
lower pools of Gihon. On the south in the valley 
is the Fountain of the Virgin, and the Pool of 
Siloam ; beyond, is the Hill of Scandal where 
King Solomon had his immense harem, and the 
Potter's Field or Field of Blood, where Judas 
after betraying Jesus went and hanged himself: 
and in a cave close by, the apostles concealed 
themselves during Christ's imprisonment and 
crucifixion. 

On the east rises the Mount of Olives from the 
summit of which Christ ascended to Heaven, and 
close by is the cave in which He taught His dis- 
ciples the Lord's Prayer. At the base of this 
mountain is the Tomb of the Virgin, with her 
husband Joseph, and those of her father and 
mother, — Joachim and Anna. 

Near the spot where St. Stephen was stoned 
to death, is the Garden of Gethsemane, where 



AROUND THE WORLD. 249 

Judas betrayed Christ with a kiss, and close by 
the Grotto of the Agony, where the Saviour en- 
dured his agony and bloody sweat. 

Between Jerusalem and the Mount of Olives 
lies the Valley of Jehoshaphat, through which 
flows the brook Kedron ; and here among thous- 
ands of Jewish tombs are those of St. James, 
Jehoshaphat, Zachariah, and Absalom, cut in the 
rock, the latter being ornamented with Doric 
columns, and partially buried beneath small stones 
thrown by the Jews in token of contempt for his 
conduct. 

Mount Zion on which a portion of Jerusalem 
is built is a large hill, and on it, just outside of the 
Zion Gate, is the tomb of David over which the 
Mohammedans have erected a small mosque : here 
in the house of the High-Priest Caiaphas is the 
room said to have been the scene of the Last Sup- 
per ; on this mount is also the spot where Christ 
appeared to his Apostles after the resurrection, 
and where the Holy Ghost descended upon them 
on the day of Pentecost. 

In an Armenian church just within the Gate 
of Zion, is kept the stone on which the cock crew 
when Peter denied his Lord ; and its altar is formed 
of a large circular stone 6 inches thick, and 1 5 feet 
in circumference, which the angel rolled away 
from the door of the Sepulchre. 

The Mosque of Omar, the Mohammedan Holy 
of Holies, is of octagon form, and is situated on 



256 A TOtJR 

Mount Moriah. It is on the foundation walls of 
the Temple of Solomon, and with its grounds 
covers an area 1,500 feet long by 1,000 broad. 
This has been considered by the Jews the most 
sacred ground in Jerusalem since the time of 
David; it was then used as threshing floors, for 
which he paid 50 shekels of silver. The Mosque, 
which is rich in gilding and glass mosaic windows, 
has beneath its dome the Holy Rock, 57 feet long 
by 43 wide, rising 6^ feet above the ground, 
on which consistent with Biblical authority, Abra- 
ham was on the point of sacrificing Isaac. 

On this Rock is the impression of Mohammed's 
foot, which he left when taking his flight from 
earth, also that of the angel Gabriel's hand as 
he restrained it from accompanying the prophet in 
his ascension. In a cavern beneath the Rock are 
preserved two hairs of Mohammed's beard, and 
here are shown shrines indicating the places where 
once prayed Abraham, Elijah, David, Jesus, and 
Mohammed. 

In the grounds inclosing the mosque is a 
small temple where David and Saul sat in judg- 
ment; and another shows where once stood Solo- 
mon's throne. In a subterranean passage are 
some of the original walls and arches of the 
Temple, and in another, containing 3,000 pillars, 
were the stables of this wise son of David. 

Outside the walls, where still remain some of 
the original stones of the Temple, is the Jews' 



AkOUND THE WORLD. 2^1 

Wailing Place, where every Friday men, women, 
and children of that dejected and outcast race as- 
semble to read their testament, to bring their 
written prayers, which they insert in the crevices 
of the wall, and with hands outstretched upon the 
stones worn smooth by their kisses, to weep and 
wail in piteous accents over the destruction of 
their Temple. 

The Church of the Holy Sepulchre was built 
by St. Helena, mother of the Emperor Constan- 
tine, about the year 325 A. D , and not only 
covers the supposed site of Calvary but those of 
every incident connected with the Passion and 
sepulture of the Saviour. 

The exterior of the church is shabby and fast 
going to decay, while the interior, owing to the 
jealousy and unwillingness of either of the 
Christian sects to allow the other to keep the 
edifice in repair, presents a dingy appearance, 
lamps, ostrich eggs, cheap pictures and other gew- 
gaws being the sole ornaments of its walls and 
altars. 

In consequence of the antagonism existing 
among the various Christian sects, a Turkish 
guard of lOO soldiers is constantly on duty to 
keep the peace, and they are frequently bribed by 
one sect to persecute another. Owing to this 
state of affairs, each sect, except the Protestants, 
has a separate chapel or altar near the Holy 
Sepulchre, and one is not allowed to trespass upon 



252 A TOUR 

the premises of the other. Occasionally may be 
seen the Greeks and Latins with their backs 
turned on each other holding their different forms 
of worship at the same time. 

On entering the edifice the first thing notice- 
able is a marble slab which covers the Stone of 
Unction where the body of Jesus was laid and 
anointed for the grave, and near it is a circular 
railing inclosing the spot where Mary and Martha 
stood during the ceremony. In the centre of the 
church is the rotunda directly beneath which is 
the Holy Sepulchre inclosed in a square temple of 
yellow marble, 15 feet high and 12 feet square; 
this is divided into two chambers ; the first one 
containing the stone where the angel sat guarding 
the entrance to the tomb, and the other the Sep- 
ulchre. Surrounding this are large wax-candles, 
each sect providing one, and besides these are 40 
gold and silver hanging-lamps presented by dif- 
ferent sovereigns, which are kept continually 
burning. 

On either side of this small temple are holes 
through which, during the Easter celebrations of 
the Greeks and Latins, which occur one month 
apart, flames are seen to issue ; attributing to this 
manifestation a miraculous origin, the devotees in 
their eagerness to secure a portion of the Holy 
Fire, as they consider it, rush forward frantically, 
trampling one another underfoot and converting 
this holy place into a veritable pandemonium. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 253 

Opening from the rotunda is a cavern in the 
natural rock, claimed to be the tombs of Nicode- 
mus and of Joseph of Arimathea, where they laid 
the body of Jesus immediately after the cruci- 
fixion. Various shrines in the church indicate the 
spots where Christ was imprisoned, put in the 
stocks, and crowned with thorns, alsp the site and 
a remnant of the flagellation column, and the 
place where the soldiers cast lots for His vestments. 
A colored marble slab on the floor marks the 
spot where the Saviour stood when He appeared 
to Mary Magdelene, and a star inserted a few 
yards further off is where Mary received this 
manifestation ; besides a place showm where Jesus 
also appeared to His mother after His resurrection. 

Ascending a flight of steps to the upper part 
of the church is Calvary, or Golgotha — • the place 
of a skull, where are two shrines ; that of the 
Latins showing where Christ was nailed to the 
Cross, and that of the Greeks, a hole in the rock 
where the Cross was raised, as well as the rent 
made by the earthq^uake. 

A few steps below the church level is the 
Chapel of St. Helena, where in 350 A. D. she 
explored and found the True Cross. 

In a Greek chapel is a globe inserted in the 
floor, marking the centre of the earth ; close to 
which is the tomb of Adam, whose resting-place 
at the foot of Calvary is said to have been revealed 
by an angel. 



254 A TOUR 

In the Sacristy are the spurs, sword and neck- 
lace of Godfrey de Bouillon, and near it is his 
tomb and that of his brother Baldwin. 

On Holy Thursday we witnessed in the 
church of the Holy Sepulchre, the ceremony of 
the Washing of Feet by the Latin High-priest ; 
in remembrance of our Saviour's washing of the 
feet of His twelve apostles. 

On Good Friday, to commemorate the last 
scenes of the Passion, the Latins have a life-size 
wax-figure of Christ which is borne through the 
Via Dolorosa — or Way of Sorrow — the proces- 
sion pausing at each station held sacred in His 
passage to the scene of the crucifixion. The Via 
Dolorosa commences at the Tower of Antonio 
where Christ first took up the cross ; then passes 
under the Ecce Homo arch, from which Pilate 
said '' Behold the Man ;" past the site of the 
house of St. Veronica, who, witnessing the 
Saviour's suffering, offered Him a handkerchief 
upon which was left the impression of His face in 
blood ; and other shrines indicating, by impres- 
sions left upon the stone wall, the places where 
Christ in falling under the weight of the cross, 
struck His face or arm. Further on is the house 
of the Wandering Jew, where stopping to rest, 
Jesus was told by him to '' move on," in reply to 
which, according to tradition, the Saviour said : 
''Move thou on likewise;" and ever since, the 
Jew has been moving on, permitted neither to 



AROUND THE WORLD. 255 

rest nor die ; which legend suggested to Eugene 
Sue the motive for his celebrated novel. 

Arriving at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, 
the procession proceeds to offer prayers at the 
various shrines ; after which they perform the 
ceremony of the crucifixion. The efifigy is nailed 
to the cross, and lifted into position in the so- 
called identical hole where once stood the original 
cross ; wdien appropriate ceremonies and prayers 
ensue, after which the cross is lowered, the body 
placed on the stone of unction and anointed, and 
finally laid in the Sepulchre. 

These religious ceremonies we witnessed 
under the protection of our Consul, attended by 
his guard together with our own ; for so great is 
the fanatical excitement of the Christians, that 
one's very life is endangered by their demonstra- 
tions. 

From Jerusalem to Hebron, southward, a dis- 
tance of 20 miles over the most rocky road im- 
aginable, we first passed the Magician's Well 
where the Star of Bethlehem was reflected in the 
water to direct the Wise Men ; then Rachel's 
tomb near the village called after Benjamin (Gen. 
XXXV. — 19), and Abraham's oak, under which 
his tent w^as pitched when he was commanded by 
God to sacrifice Isaac. 

Hebron w^hich, next to Damascus, is the 
oldest city in the world, contains about 5,000 in- 
habitants; here Abraham bought from Ephron 



256 A TOUR 

the Hittite, the cave and field of Machpelah ; and 
under a large Mohammedan mosque which neither 
Christian nor Jew is allowed to enter, lie buried 
Abraham and Sarah his wife ; Isaac, Rebecca 
and Leah ; and the Mohammedans claim Joseph 
also. 

From here, proceeding northeast, we passed 
the immense Pools and Gardens of Solomon, 
where he once had a summer palace (Ecc. II. — 
5-6), and went through the village of Etam where 
Samson was bound with cords, and after break- 
ing them killed 1,000 Philistines with the jaw- 
bone of an ass (Judges, XV). 

Bethlehem, the City of David, situated on the 
knob of a mountain, surrounded by valleys and 
picturesque views, is one of the prettiest and most 
interesting spots in Palestine. 

The Church of the Nativity covers the grotto 
stable where Christ was born ; the spot being 
marked by a silver star inserted in the floor. 
The first one placed there having been stolen, the 
Greeks and Latins contended for the honor of 
providing a substitute ; which contention afforded 
a pretext for the inauguration of the Crimean 
war. 

Another grotto is where the angel appeared 
to Joseph in a dream bidding him take the young 
child and its mother, and flee into Egypt ; in the 
Milk grotto the Holy Family took refuge ; in an- 
other St. Jerome lived and died ; and in still an- 



AROUND THE WORLD. 257 

other, 20,000 of the Innocents were thrown after 
the massacre ordered by Herod. 

This church, built by St. Helena, is said to be 
the oldest in the world, and was of great mag- 
nificence when Baldwin was crowned here, King 
of Jerusalem ; the ceiling is composed of beams 
of cedar from the forest of Lebanon, and its walls 
still show traces of the golden mosaic which once 
adorned it. 

Leaving Bethlehem we passed David's Well, 
the water of which he so thirsted after (H. 
Samuel, XXHI. — 15-16) ; crossed the field of Boaz 
where Ruth gathered the sheaves (Ruth, H), and 
where the shepherds w^atched their flocks by 
night (Luke, 11); stopped for lunch at the 
grotto where the angel appeared to the shepherds, 
announcing the birth of the Saviour ; and camped 
for the night at Mar-Saba. 

This locality is noted for its convent cut in 
the solid rock, which is occupied by dirty Greek 
monks who are never allowed to look upon the 
face of a woman, and who pass their days guard- 
ing the tomb of their Saint Saba. 

Leaving camp early in the morning we rode 
four hours through the wilderness of Judea ; 
passing the ruined castle where John the 
Baptist was beheaded, and the valley in which 
were the warm baths where Herod bathed 
for his illness, and reached the Dead Sea. 

This sheet of water which is 46 miles in length 

17 



258 A TOUR 

and 1 1 in breadth, is of a dark-green color and so 
bitter and briny that no Hving creature can exist 
in it, though birds, contrary to the general belief 
are frequently seen flying over it. It is situated 
1,300 feet below the level of the ocean, and its 
specific gravity is so great that in bathing one 
finds it impossible to sink. The Dead Sea is 
inclosed by mountains not less than 2,000 feet 
high, and at its head is Mount Neba, while on its 
shores, now desolate and devoid of all life and 
vegetation, once stood the cities of Sodom and 
Gomorrah. 

It may not be inappropriate, although some- 
what anticipating events, to recount here an inci- 
dent of a second visit to the Dead Sea which I 
made alone. 

Mounting my thoroughbred Arab horse I was 
conducted by an Arab attendant to a Bedouin 
village — -an assemblage of tents — where the 
sheik resided. Each tribe, inhabiting a certain dis- 
trict, is governed by a sheik, and in order to 
obtain permission to pass through their territory, 
tribute money is exacted, when they furnish an 
escort to the neighboring tribe, who in turn enact 
similar proceedings. 

After some deliberation and delay, the sheik 
furnished me a guard armed with a gun, a brace 
of pistols, and a sword, and mounted on a thor- 
oughbred mare as swift as the wind, which he 
rode without bridle and with such perfect control 



AROUND THE WORLD. 259 

as to be able to turn her in an instant, to gallop 
her up and down almost perpendicular ascents, 
while he shputed at the top of his voice, waving 
on high his gun and sword, and often crossing 
blades with other Arabs whom he met. Finally 
reaching the shores of the sea, the question arose 
in my mind how I was to obtain a bath without 
leaving all my effects at the mercy of the Bedouin, 
whose manifestations — such as reloading his gun, 
examining his ammunition, and whetting his 
sword — were anything but reassuring. Such was 
my situation in the desert, alone, and twelve miles 
from any human being of my own race. Finally 
I bethought me of a ruse. As well as I could 
make myself understood by means of signs, I in- 
timated to my companion my misgivings as to the 
safety of the contemplated plunge : and finally 
after some difficulty, succeeded in persuading him 
to precede me into the water. Once in, I kept a 
position between him and the shore, in order to be 
master of the situation, and seizing the opportun- 
ity w^hen he had swam out some distance, I step- 
ped out, and as quickly as possible resumed my 
clothing and arms. 

On my return trip, the Bedouin's appearance 
and demonstrations being anything but agreeable, 
I kept him in advance of me until we reached 
the precincts of the next tribe when I will- 
ingly exchanged him for another guard, con- 
gratulating myself for the narrow escape from 



26o A TOUR 

the danger into which a spirit of adventure had 
led me. 

From the Dead Sea we followed the course of 
the river Jordan for an hour, lunching and bathing 
at the traditional spot where Christ was baptized 
by John the Baptist (Matt. III). Here the river 
is about 50 yards wide, quite deep and muddy, 
with a current running at the velocity of 8 miles 
an hour : the banks are low, marshy, and treacher- 
ous ; a fact which we well recall from the circum- 
stance of the partial loss of our lunch, and the 
narrow escape of our sumpter horse, who, poor 
beast, suffering from heat and thirst, ventured to 
the edge of the stream, and losing his foothold 
came near being carried away by the swift cur- 
rent. 

This is supposed to be the place where the 
Israelites crossed ; where Elijah divided the waters, 
and passing over ascended in a chariot of fire to 
Heaven, and where Elisha on whom the mantle of 
Elijah had fallen, smote the waters and again 
divided them. 

During Easter Monday after Passion Week 
Christian Pilgrims from all parts of the world 
come, mounted on horses, donkeys, and camels, 
to bathe in the Jordan at this spot. This motley 
throng composed of every sect and nationality, 
men, women, and children in every variety of 
costume, shouting and wrangling in every known 
language under the sun, present a most novel and 



AROUND THE WORLD. 26 1 

animated scene of the cosmopolitan life of the 
East. 

Crossing the plain of the Jordan where the 
heat is intense, we camped at the site of ancient 
Jericho at the foot of the high mountain where 
Christ, after his forty days fast, was tempted by 
the devil (Matt. IV. — 8-12) ; and cibove the Foun- 
tain of Elisha whose waters he healed and con- 
verted from bitter to sweet (II. Kings, II — 21-23). 

Jericho was built by Herod, and it was here 
he died : and near it was the tree climbed by Zac- 
cheus to enable him to view Jesus as he passed 
through the vast concourse of people (Luke, XIX. 
1-5). Here also grew the famous Balsam shrubs 
which possessed the virtue of healing wounds, 
presented by Mark Antony to Cleopatra, and 
which she caused to be removed to Heliopolis 
when she sold the ground to Herod. 

From Jericho we crossed the brook Cherith, 
passed the cave where Elisha was fed by the 
ravens, the place where the she-bears lurked to 
tear the '^ forty and two wicked children" (II. 
Kings, II. — 24), and lunched among the ruins of 
the Samaritan inn : afterwards passing the spot 
where a certain man fell among thieves (Luke, X. 
— 30-36) we reached Bethan}^, where we de- 
scended into the tomb of Lazarus, and visited the 
ruins of the house of Mary and Martha (John, XL). 

From Bethany we followed the road by which 
Christ made his triumphal entry into Jerusalem, 



262 A TOUR 

passing the site of the fig-tree which he cursed 
(Mark, XL) ; the field which henceforth pro- 
duced but stones ; and camped on the Mount of 
OHves from which point is obtained a magnificent 
view of the Holy City. 



CHAPTER XXI. 

SINJEL : NABLOUS : SAMARIA : JEZREEL I NAZARETH : 
THE SEA OF GALILEE : TIBERIAS : CAPERNAUM : 
DAN : C^SAREA PHILIPPI : DAMASCUS : BAALBEC : 
BEYROUT. 

Leaving Jerusalem for the north we crossed the 
hill of Neby Samwil — the Biblical Mizpah where 
Saul was elected the first king of Israel ; de- 
scended to the village and pool of Gibeon where 
Solomon asked of God wisdom to govern his 
people ; passed Ramah where Samuel was born 
and Beira where Joseph and Mary missed Jesus, 
after a day's journey. We stopped for rest and 
refreshment at Bethel where Jacob with his head 
on a stone dreamed of a ladder that reached to 
heaven, and saw angels ascending and descending 
thereon ; and camped for the night at Sinjel near 
the Robbers' Fountain. 

From here we passed through Shiloh where 
the Ark of the Covenant rested for 300 years ; 



AROUND THE WORLD. 263 

and where Eli fell down and broke his neck ; fur- 
ther on the well of Haran where Jacob first met 
Rachel (Gen. XXIX.) ; Joseph's tomb where he 
was buried after being brought up out of Egypt 
(Josh. XXIV. — 32); and the well which Jacob dug 
after buying the land of the sons of Hamor for 
100 pieces of silver, and where Jesus sat talking 
to the woman of Samaria (John, IV. — 5-31). 

Nablous — or Shechem — one of the cities of 
refuge whose history dates back 4,000 years, is 
situated in a beautiful valley at the foot of Mount 
Ebal and Mount Gerizim, between which Moses 
commanded Joshua to read the laws before the 
congregation of Israel. Here Abraham first 
pitched his tent in Canaan ; here Simeon and 
Levi murdered the male population to revenge 
the dishonor of their sister Dinah ; and here Re- 
hoboam w^as proclaimed king over Israel. 

The inhabitants, who are Samaritans number- 
ing about 1,000, believe only in the Pentateuch 
or first five books of Moses ; they claim to be the 
true Jews ; and in their synagogue show the 
celebrated Samaritan Codex said to be 4,000 
years old. 

On the top of Mount Gerizim where the 
twelve stones of the tribes of Israel were set 
up, traditions say that Abraham met Mel- 
chisedec ; and that here also he prepared to sac- 
rifice his son. On this mountain during the 
months of April and May the Samaritans en- 



264 A TOUR 

camp, and on the traditional spot offer up a burnt 
sacrifice of a ram. 

After leaving Nablous we rode through a fer- 
tile and well-cultivated valley to Samaria, and 
camped on the ruins of Ahab's Ivory Palace 
which stands on the top of a lone hill 300 feet 
above the level of the plain, with expansive views 
in every direction. Here are the remains of 
Herod's noble colonnade of which about 1 00 of 
the granite columns yet stand ; and it was on 
this site that once stood the great temple of Baal. 
The city was besieged during the reign of Ahab, — 
who married the notorious Jezebel, — by the king 
of Damascus ; and the suffering of the inhabitants 
during the three years' siege, was one of the most 
frightful on record ; it is recounted among other 
horrors that mothers actually boiled their dis- 
membered infants for food. The siege was finally 
raised, as predicted by Elisha the prophet (H 
Kings, VI. — 24-33 ; VII.— 1-20). 

From Samaria we visited the site of Dothan 
where Elisha dwelt ; and near by the pit into 
which Joseph was cast by his brethren ; thence 
to Jenin and through the plain of Esdraelon 
which is environed by the hills of Samaria, those 
of Galilee and of Gilboa, and Mount Carmel. 
This plain which is 20 miles long by 12 wide was 
the scene of the great battles of Palestine. It 
was here, near the river Kishon that the battle 
was fought between the armies of Baruk and 



AROUND THE WORLD. 265 

Jabin ; when Sisera, general of the army of the 
latter fled on foot to the tent of Jael, who after 
inviting him in to rest and giving him drink, 
drove a nail into his temple ; here also Joshua, 
Benhadad, Saul, Gideon, Tamerlane, Tancred, 
Coeur de Lion, Saladin, and Napoleon have 
fought bloody battles and added pages of history 
to this already celebrated spot. 

At night we camped at Jezreel the capital of 
Ahab and the wicked Jezebel, the scene first of 
their crimes, and later of their retribution (I Kings, 
XXL), and from here we passed the Fountain of 
Gideon, where he encamped his army previous to 
the attack on Shunem (Judges, VII). 

It was in Shunem that Elijah restored the 
child of the Shunamite to life ; from this town we 
rode around the mountain of Little Hermon to 
Nain, where Jesus resuscitated the widow's son 
(Luke, VII. — -I I -16), and beyond, to Endor where 
we visited the cave in which lived the witch whom 
Saul consulted before going into battle (I Samuel 
XXVIII. — 7- 1 5). 

After thus diverging, we returned, and con- 
tinued through the plain of Esdraelon, stopping 
at Debiereh the home of the prophetess Deborah; 
and ascended Mount Tabor, the scene of the 
Transfiguration, which rises like a cone in the 
midst of the plain, whence is obtained a magnifi- 
cent view of the adjacent country. 

Nazareth, the scene of the Annunciation and 



266 A TOUR 

the home of the Saviour during his boyhood's 
years, contains a population of 6,000 inhabitants. 
It is situated on the side of a hill overlooking a 
lovely valley ; but its streets, like those of all 
Eastern cities are narrow, crooked and filthy. 
At the entrance of the town is the Fountain of the 
Virgin where Mary was in the habit of drawing 
water, and which the Greeks claim was the scene 
of the Annunciation ; while to-day as then, it is 
the favorite resort of the Nazarene maidens, who 
assemble here to fill their jugs which they carry 
away gracefully poised on their heads. 

The Church of the Annunciation where the 
Latins claim the angel appeared to the Virgin, is 
built over the house of the Holy Family which is 
divided into three small underground apart- 
ments ; a broken column indicating the spot 
where the angel appeared, and a cross where the 
Virgin stood while receiving his message. 

A church also covers the site of the carpenter 
shop where Jesus and Joseph worked at their trade: 
another incloses an immense rock on which Christ 
and his disciples ate; and the synagogue is shown 
from which Jesus was driven while preaching. 

In Nazareth as elsewhere throughout the 
country, the sites of holy places are covered by 
churches of the Latins or Greeks, each sect often 
claiming a different locality for the identical asso- 
ciation, and building thereon a commemorative 
church. 



AROUND THE WORLt). 267 

From Nazareth to Tiberius, we passed Gath 
Hepher ; and Cana of Galilee where Christ per- 
formed his first miracle — excepting those recorded 
in the rejected books; and here we visited an old 
church in which are two huge earthen pots 
which are claimed to be the identical ones used at 
the marriage feast (John, II. — 1-12). - 

Passing Lubieh and Beth-arbel, we stopped 
for our mid-day repast on the summit of Horn- 
Hattin — or Mount of Beatitudes — where Christ 
preached His famous sermon on the Mount (Matt. 
V. VI. VII). Here the last great battle of the 
Crusade of 1187 was fought, the Sultan Saladin 
completely exterminating the army of the Chris- 
tians. 

The Sea of Galilee, or Lake of Tiberius, is 14 
miles in length and 6 in breadth, and of the many 
cities that once clustered along its shores only a 
few scattering villages now remain. While Jose- 
phus describes its surface covered with vessels, 
and naval conflicts taking place upon its waters, it 
is now as quiet as the grave, with only a few rude 
fishing boats with their drowsy occupants, break- 
ing the monotony of the scene. 

After the expulsion of Jesus from Nazareth 
He dwelt upon the banks of the Sea of Galilee, 
and consequently nearly every foot of its shore is 
consecrated ground. Here He passed three of 
the most eventful years of His life : here He chose 
His apostles, while the multitudes followed Him, 



268 A TOUR 

and here He performed his most noted mira- 
cles. 

The town of Tiberias on the borders of the 
sea, was built by Herod Antipas and named 
after the Roman emperor. It once extended for 
two miles along the shore from the site of the 
present town to the natural hot baths, w^hich are 
still extant; but it is now confined to a very small 
area. Its walls are in many places in a ruinous 
condition, and the place looks quaint and old. On 
the water's edge is a small convent built on the 
site of Peter's house and near which it is said the 
miraculous draught of fishes took place (John, 
XXL 1-15 and Luke V.— 1-12). 

The inhabitants of Tiberias are mostly Jews 
who believe the Messiah will yet come and estab- 
lish his throne at Safed. 

Taking one of the small fishing-boats on the 
Sea of Galilee which ply at the rate of two miles 
an hour, giving rise to the irreverent but very 
suggestive remark of an impatient American 
^' it was no wonder Christ got out and walked," 
w^e passed Magdala, the village where Mary 
Magdalene was born ; the place where the miracle 
of the Loaves and Fishes was performed (John, 
VI. — 1-22); Bethsaida, where are yet to be seen 
large columns and stone ruins lying in every 
direction ; and camped for the night on the 
site of ancient Capernaum, at the upper end of 
this beautiful sheet of water so teeming with his- 



AROUND THE WORLD. 269 

torical interest. Capernaum commands the finest 
situation on the Sea of GaHlee, and its extensive 
ruins show it to have been a place of great 
importance. 

For the first time since our sojourn in the Holy 
Land we were impressed with the solemnity of 
our surroundings : here the desecrating hand of 
man has not marred the effect of association by 
the rearing of shrines and churches, but Nature 
alone chants the solemn requiem : here no Eblis 
of contention and rivalry exists, but the spirit of 
peace and holiness broods like the dove over 
the quiet scene. 

Continuing north we passed in view of Safed 
on the summit of the mountain, which is identified 
as '' the city set on a hill that cannot be hid,'' 
crossed the rocky highlands of Napthalie, where 
we met large caravans, one of them alone number- 
ing 500 camels, and continuing up the valley of 
the Jordan, camped for the night at the waters of 
Merom, surrounded by about 100,000 Bedouin 
Arabs, with their large herds of buffaloes. This 
is the strongest tribe in Syria ; in time of war 
mounting 10,000 men on blooded mares, and 
90,000 on camels. Riding around the Great 
Marsh, and passing by Beth-Rehob, we crossed 
an old Roman bridge and halted for lunch at Dan 
just above a large spring of clear water, one of the 
sources of the Jordan. Dan is the ancient Laish 
which the children of Dan took, and named after 



270 A TOUR 

their father, and is situated on the northern bor- 
der of Palestine as Beersheba is on the southern ; 
hence the saying : '' from Dan to Beersheba/' 

From here we rode to Caesarea PhiHppi, 
where we camped for the night near another 
source of the Jordan whose waters rise in a cavern 
formerly dedicated to the god Pan. It was in 
Caesarea Philippi, that Jesus delegated to Peter the 
keys of Heaven, saying: '^Thou art Peter, and 
upon this rock I will build my church '' (Matt. 
XVI.— 18-19). 

On the roofs of the village houses are struc- 
tures, resembling birds' nests, formed of branches 
and leaves, and supported by poles at either 
corner, in which the inhabitants sleep in summer 
to avoid the heat and insects. 

From Caesarea Philippi we ascended the rough 
slopes of Hermon, and visited the ruined castle 
of Banias standing on a height of 5,000 feet 
above the level of the sea, supposed to have been 
built in the time of the Herods ; and com- 
manded by Josephus. 

Further on we passed the village of Medjee 
Eshshems whose inhabitants are Druses ; Beit- 
Jenn on the banks of a tributary of the Parphar 
and at the foot of high and rugged rocks in which 
are cut numbers of tombs, and camped for the 
night at Kafr-Hauwar, where is the reputed 
tom.b of Nimrod, the mighty hunter. 

Damascus, the oldest and most Oriental city 



AROUND THE WORLD. 2/1 

in the world, was founded by Uz, the grandson 
of Noah ; dates back over 4,000 years ; and now 
contains 175,000 inhabitants. It is situated in a 
fertile and well-watered valley between the rivers 
Pharpar and Abana ; this oasis of the desert 
being claimed by some to be the site of the Gar- 
den of Eden. 

From the heights of Salihneh, before entering 
the city, there is a magnificent view of Damascus 
with its many domes and towering minarets. It 
was from this point that Mohammed, when a 
camel driver, first viewed the city, and refused to 
enter, saying : ^^ Man can have but one Paradise, 
and my Paradise is fixed above." 

In Damascus one sees the Arab and Turk in 
their original state, free from the taint of Eu- 
ropean civilization ; and business transacted as it 
was thousands of years ago. The interior of 
many of the houses are richly furnished, and have 
large courts filled with flowers and sparkling 
fountains. In the narrow and tortuous streets 
may be heard to this day, men relating the story 
of Joseph and his brethren, and the adventures 
of Haroun Al Raschid ; as centuries ago the blind 
Bard of the seven cities went from place to place 
reciting his undying epics. 

The bazaars far surpass those of Cairo and 
Constantinople in cleanliness, variety and beauty 
of display. The merchants are richly dressed 
in gay-colored attire, and sit cross-legged on 



2/2 A TOUR 

Turkish rugs among their wares; here are dis- 
played all the various products of the Orient — 
spices and perfumes from Arabia ; dates from 
Nubia; ivory and ostrich plumes from Egypt; 
tobacco from Latakia ; satins from Aleppo ; 
rich fabrics from India; silks from China; 
pearls from Ceylon, and steel blades and brazen 
ornaments, manufactures of Damascus 

The city is divided into sections, separating 
Mohammedans, Jews and Christians, by iron 
gates which are closed at nightfall and in times- of 
disturbance. The Mohammedans bear a great 
antipathy towards the followers of Christ; and in 
i860 massacred all the Christians in the city ex- 
cepting those who effected their escape to their 
stronghold. 

Damascus is noted for its cafes, and for its 
manufactories of silks and jewels; and is a great 
centre for the fitting out of caravans for the 
Bedouin districts ; whence they return laden with 
rugs, skins and other articles of traffic. 

The Great Mosque, one of the finest of all the 
Mohammedan places of worship, is built on the site 
of an ancient temple, many of the columns of which 
are still standing. It has two courts and three 
minarets and in its centre stands a gilt iron cage, 
in which they claim is the head of John the Baptist. 

In the cemetery are the tombs of Mohammed's 
numerous family ; and that of St. George, the tu- 
telary saint of England. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 2/3 

In the city are: *'the street called Straight;" 
the house of Judas where Saul was taken ; the 
house of Ananias and Sapphira whom the Lord 
destroyed for their perjury: the Leper's hospital 
on the site where once stood Naaman's house ; 
and the wall from which Saul was lowered 
in a basket. A short distance beyond the city 
gates is the spot where Saul on his way from 
Jerusalem to Damascus, to persecute the Chris- 
tians, saw the Divine light and was converted 
(Acts, IX.). 

From Damascus we followed the Abana river 
to the Fountain of Fijeh, where tradition says 
Balaam watered his ass ; passed the town of 
Columns, and camped at the village of Suk, lo- 
cated at the base of a steep mountain, on top of 
which we visited the ruins of an old marble 
temple said to have been built on the spot where 
Cain killed his brother, and beyond, about 30 
yards, covered by a shrine, is the reputed tomb 
of Abel. 

Making an early start the following morning, 
we passed over a road and along an aqueduct cut 
in the solid rock by the Romans 164 years B. 
C. Further on we reached the town of Abi- 
lene, where there are tombs cut high up in the 
rocks ; then Bludan the summer residence of the 
consuls of Damascus; and passing Yafufeh, and 
the tomb of Seth, we arrived at Baalbec after 
having been ten hours in the saddle. 



274 A TOUR 

The ruins of Baalbec are among the finest on 
earth ; their magnificence and magnitude of 
columns and blocks of stone having been for cen- 
turies the wonder and admiration of the world. 
These ruins are goo feet long by 500 wide, 
built on an artificial platform raised thirty feet 
above the plain, and have immense vaults under- 
neath, the foundation blocks being bevelled and 
fitted together similarly to those in the Temple 
at Jerusalem. Owing to the discovery of Jewish 
architecture amid the Doric, Tuscan, and Corin- 
thian ruins, it is considered by many archaeolo- 
gists to have been the House of the Forest of Le- 
banon which Solomon built for his Egyptian 
wife, and which is not improbable from the fact 
that his successors were idolaters ; and this his 
dwelling place was consecrated to the worship of 
Baal, or the sun ; Baalbec of the Syrians having 
the same meaning as Heliopolis of the Greeks — 
City of the Sun. 

On the immense foundation where rise these 
ruins, several stone blocks of which measure 
6^ feet long, 15 wide, and 13 deep, stood two or 
more temples of immense magnitude : the Temple 
of the Sun was surrounded by Corinthian columns 
80 feet high, and 22 in circumference, only six of 
which remain standing: the Temple of Jupiter is 
yet comparatively intact, and is about 230 feet 
long by 125 feet broad: many of its columns 
are crowned by magnificently-carved capitals, of 



AROUND THE WORLD. 2/5 

such extent as would compare with the size of a 
cottage. 

A mile distant, in the quarries, there yet 
remains a huge block of stone partially hewn, 
measuring 70 feet long, 17 wide, and 14 thick, 
and of sufficient area to allow of two wagons 
being driven on it abreast. Viewing these relics of 
long past eras the question is naturally suggested 
as to the means employed to elevate these huge 
masses to their designated positions at a period 
when the science of engineering was still in its 
incipiency. 

From Baalbec we rode through the valley 
between Anti-Lebanon and Lebanon proper, and 
traversed the country to which the spies were 
sent by the Children of Israel to explore, and who 
returning, brought with them immense bunches of 
grapes as evidence of the richness of the land: 

On the road to Estura, where we proposed 
camping for the night, we visited the tomb of 
Noah, which is 70 yards long, and inclosed in a 
Mohammedan shrine. 

On the following day, we crossed the moun- 
tains of Lebanon, stopping for rest and refresh- 
ment under its famous cedars, after which we 
resumed our route reaching, in the evening, 
Beyrout, a town of 100,000 inhabitants, on the 
sea-coast; its hotels, banks, and shops recalling 
us once more to the essentials of civilization. 



2^6 A TOUR 



CHAPTER XXII. 

LARNICA : RHODES : SMYRNA : EPHESUS : PIR.EUS : 
ATHENS : ITS ENVIRONS. 

Leaving Beyrout by an Austrian Lloyd steamer, 
we had a most delightful trip through the Medi- 
terranean, and the Grecian Archipelago, sailing 
amid the beautiful islands so celebrated in historic 
and classic lore, and landed on the island of Cy- 
prus, one of the first places where Christianity 
was established, and where Paul and Barnabas 
preached. 

We went ashore at Larnica, a small town 
inhabited by Greeks, and spent the day rambling 
about the place. Here we visited the Greek 
church which contains the tomb of Lazarus, who 
having moved here after his resurrection from the 
dead, became the first Christian bishop, of Cyprus. 
This was also the birthplace of Zeno, who founded 
the sect of Stoics and taught at Athens the doc- 
trine that men should be free from all passion or 
emotion. 

Rhodes on an island of the same name and 
so called from its abundance of roses, is a most 
favored spot. It is situated on a hill which slopes 
down to a miniature bay, and has a delightful 



AROUND THE WORLD. 277 

climate. Rhodes is chiefly renowned for the 
Colossus which once spanned the bay at its en- 
trance. This was the figure of a man in brass 105 
feet in height, his extended legs forming an arch- 
way through which the small crafts of the period 
could readily pass, and was classed as the 6th 
wonder of the world. It was built 290 B. C. and 
was destroyed by an earthquake, the fragments 
being sold by the 6th caliph to a Jew who loaded 
900 camels with 800 lbs. each. 

Rhodes was also distinguished in ancient 
times for its liberty, learning, and valor, and in 
modern times for its defences conducted by the 
knights of St. John; the Rue des Chevaliers — or 
street of the knights — yet containing many old 
houses on which are sculptured in stone the 
armorial bearings of the knights. 

From here we entered the Archipelago passing 
the site of Halicarnassus where stood the Mauso- 
leum of Mausolus, king of Caria, erected by 
Artemisia, his wife and sister, 350 B. C. and 
reckoned the 5th wonder of the world; Symi, 
noted for its corals and sponges and the expert- 
ness of its male and female divers ; Patmos, where 
St. John wrote the Revelations, having been 
banished there by the Emperor Domitian for 
preaching the Gospel of Christ; Samos, celebrated 
in classic literature as the birthplace of Juno and 
Pythagoras, and for a long time the home of 
Herodotus, who here compiled the greater portion 



2/8 A TOUR 

of his history; and Scio, which we saw partly in 
ruins, having been recently visited by a fearful 
earthquake, and under whose fallen walls yet lay 
buried the remains of hundreds of human 
beings. 

Smyrna, which stands foremost among the 
cities of Asia Minor, has a population of 160,000, 
and is supposed to have been founded by Alex- 
ander the Great. It is the only city of the Seven 
Churches addressed by the apostle St. John, 
which has retained its importance down to the 
present time, and is also one of the seven cities 
that lay claim to having given birth to Homer : 



** Seven Grecian cities strove for Homer dead, 

Through which the Hving Homer begged his bread " 



Its inhabitants have erected a temple near the 
grotto where it is said he conceived his immortal 
epic, the Iliad. 

On Mount Pagus, a hill overlooking Smyrna 
are the ruins of an old castle, near which is the 
spot where Polycarp the first bishop of the city 
was burnt at the stake, and near by is his tomb. 
The principal export of this city is figs, and cara- 
vans daily import the indigenous products of Asia 
Minor. 

A two hours' trip from Smyrna, by rail, 
brought us to the ruins of Ephesus once one of 
the most remarkable cities of the world, whose 



AROUND THE WORLD. 279 

origin was attributed to the Amazons ; and es- 
pecially noted for the Temple of Diana, the 3d 
wonder of the world. This temple which was 
425 feet in length, and 225 in breadth, the whole 
supported by 127 superb columns, each the gift 
of a king, was built 552 years B. C. Its erection 
required an incredible number of workmen ; the 
most skilful painters and sculptors being employed 
in the decorations of the edifice. The statue of 
Diana was of ebony ; and legend avers was a gift 
direct from Jupiter to the Ephesians. This 
temple was burned by Herostratus, who sought 
thus to acquire a meritricious fame ; the event oc- 
curring on the very day of the birth of Alexander 
the Great, 356 B. C. 

At Ephesus are also the ruins of the great 
theatre which seated 60,000 people, and into 
which Demetrius with his fellow craftsmen drew 
Gains and Aristarchus — Paul's companions — 
shouting : '* Great is Diana of the Ephesians !" 
(Acts XIX — 21-41.) Here also are the ruins of 
the school of Tyrannous ; the Agora, or market- 
place ; the Odeum, and the Stadium which seated 
75,000 people; the Gymnasium; the old Aqueduct, 
40 columns of which still remain, and on the top 
of several we saw storks standing guard over their 
curious nests; the cemetery with numbers of stone 
sarcophagi ; the prison of St. Paul, on an eleva- 
tion; the tombs of St. Luke and St. John, and the 
baptismal font of the latter. In the side of the 



280 A TOUR 

hill of Prion, is the cave of the Seven Sleepers, 
where the seven young men slept for over 200 
years. Near Ephesus, flows the river Meander 
from whose tortuous course is derived the word 
meander. 

It was in this city that Apollo and his sister 
Diana were born ; here Syrinx was changed into 
a reed, and here also the god Pan dwelt in the 
caves of the hill of Coressus ; here roamed the 
Amazons, and here their contests with Bacchus 
and Hercules ; and here also, is claimed the na- 
tivity of Homer. 

Ephesus was visited by successive celebrities 
of the different eras — Alcibiades, Lysander, 
Agesilaus, Alexander the Great, Hannibal, An- 
tiochus, Scipio, Lucullus, Sulla, Pompey, Brutus, 
Cassius, Cicero and Augustus. 

Here Antony administered justice; and leav- 
ing his seat in court followed Cleopatra as she 
passed the door. Later he sailed with her from 
this port, in a galley ornamented with gold and 
silken sails rowed by black slaves and filled with 
beautiful dancing girls, and winged Cupids; while 
they made love in the midst of perfumed breezes, 
to the sound of voluptuous strains of music and 
the dipping of silver oars. 

Returning to Smyrna we crossed the Archi- 
pelago to Piraeus, once the great sea-port of 
Greece and seven miles from Athens. 

Athens, the capital of Greece, with a popula- 



AROUND THE WORLD. 28 1 

tion of 64,000 owes its celebrity to its record of 
past grandeur, its numerous ruins of architectural 
and sculptural art, and its historical landmarks of 
many ages. 

Of the modern city, the Palace, the Academy 
of Science, and the Museum are its finest build- 
ings; the latter contains a fine collection of old 
Grecian statues, among which is that of Minerva, 
modelled after the lost masterpiece, the Palladium, 
which the Greeks had stolen from Troy and 
placed in the Parthenon ; besides quantities of 
arms, gold plate, ornaments, and coin found in the 
tomb of Agamemnon. 

The public gardens and open air theatres of 
Athens are numerous and well patronized, and 
often combine arenic and dramatic performances. 

The Acropolis or Citadel crowns the summit 
of a rocky hill which rises abruptly to a height of 
150 feet from the plain in the midst of the city, 
and has been a fortress from the earliest ages. The 
Acropolis which was the pride of Greece, the per- 
fection of art, and the envy of the world had four 
distinctive features — the Fortress of the city ; the 
Sacred Shrine for sacrificial ofTerings ; the Treas- 
ury ; and the Museum of Art. It was entered 
by the Propylaea — a massive marble gate-way 
of the Doric order, and was approached on either 
side by steps between which the chariots drove 
up on the natural rock. To the right of the en- 
trance stands the Temple of Victory without 



282 A TOUR 

Wings ; and on the left is the Pinacotheca which 
now serves as a museum for the statues, inscrip- 
tions, and other antiquities found in the Acropo- 
lis. 

The Parthenon — a temple dedicated to Min- 
erva, was built during the time of Pericles 436 
years B. C. at a cost of $3,000,000. It was of 
white marble, 230 feet long by 100 wide; the 
walls were surrounded by 48 marble columns of 
the Doric order — 34 feet high — most of which 
are yet standing ; while on the facade still remains 
a portion of the celebrated frieze supposed to have 
been the work of Phidias representing the faces of 
the gods, the ceremonies of the temple, and 
chariot and horse races. In the centre of the 
temple stood the colossal statue of Minerva, 60 
feet high, and covered with gold and ivory ; and 
in its vaults was kept the public treasure. 

To the west stands the temple of the Erec- 
thium dedicated to the joint worship of Minerva 
and Neptune who disputed for the guardianship 
of Athens ; the preference being adjudged to that 
deity who should confer the most useful gift to 
man. Neptune struck the ground with his tri- 
dent and forthwith a horse sprang to life ; but 
Minerva caused an olive-tree to grow out of the 
earth — the emblem of peace and plenty ; and to 
her was given the coveted prize ; when she called 
the city Athena, after her own name in Greek. 
The portico of the temple is supported by six 



AkOtJND THE WORLt). 283 

beautiful marble figures or Car3/atides, women of 
Caria, who were condemned to support the 
temple on their heads, for joining Xerxes against 
their own countrymen, the Athenians. Its Ionic 
columns are the finest type of that style of archi- 
tecture existing; and in its inclosure were en- 
tombed the remains of Cecrops. 

Below the Acropolis were the temple and the 
theatre of Dionysus, or Bacchus ; the latter built 
500 years B. C. and in a wonderful state of pre- 
servation. The stage, orchestra and seats are of 
marble ; the front row of arm-chairs being re- 
served for the priests of the temples, each having 
the name of the owner inscribed upon it. 

The Temple of Theseus surrounded by a colon- 
nade was erected to receive the remains of that hero, 
who, in order to abolish the ceremony of the sacrifice 
of seven Athenian maidens and as many youths, 
sent annually as tribute to Minos, king of Crete, 
to satisfy the rapacity of Minotaur a monster con- 
fined in the Labyrinth, went himself as one of the 
allotted victims, to Crete. Here having been cast 
into the Labyrinth, he sought the monster, and slew 
him, and finding his way out by means of a ball 
of thread given him for the purpose by Ariadne, 
the king's daughter, fled with her from the 
island. 

In the temple are preserved the code of laws 
of Solon written on tablets of stone ; and the mar- 
ble bas-relief of the soldier of Marathon who 



284 A TOUR 

bringing back the glad tidings of success expired 
with the word " Victory " upon his hps. 

Other objects of interest in Athens are, the 
Stadium, an immense amphitheatre built in the 
side of the hill where the games and chariot races 
were celebrated annually; the Odeum of Hero- 
des Atticus, a well-preserved Roman theatre ; 
the Temple of Jupiter of which there remain only 
16 Corinthian columns, 60 feet in height, one of 
which lies prostrate, broken into singularly sym- 
metrical sections from the effects of an earthquake ; 
the arch of Hadrian which divides old Athens, — the 
city of Theseus, from new Athens, — the city of 
Hadrian ; the Lantern of Diogenes, also known 
as the monument of Lysicrates, a circular building 
of white marble, and the onl}^ one remaining of a 
series that ornamented the street of Tripods ; the 
Tower of the Winds, an octagonal-shaped water- 
clock, each of its sides facing the points of the 
Athenian compass, and the Bema, or stone pulpit 
from which Themistocles, Pericles, Alcibiades, and 
Demosthenes addressed the people. 

On Mars hill that god was tried for the mur- 
der of the son of Neptune by the Areopagus 
which was the highest judicial court of Athens : 
and here Socrates was tried for theism, found 
guilty, and sentenced to death : close by is his 
dungeon-prison, cut in the solid rock, where he 
drank the hemlock, and where it is said he was 
buried 398 B. C. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 285 

It was from Mars hill that St. Paul preached 
to the Athenians, saying : — '' for as I passed by 
and beheld your devotions, I found an altar with 
this inscription ^ to the tcuknown god.' Whom 
therefore ye ignorantly worship. Him declare I 
unto you." 

On Mount Lycabettus is a small- Greek chapel 
dedicated to St. George, and on the Hill of the 
Muses is a marble monument to Philopappus ; 
both points affording fine views of the city, and of 
the Plain of Marathon. 

The most interesting excursion from Athens is 
by carriage to Megara, a drive of four hours or 
more. 

En route the first point of interest is the Tem- 
ple of Apollo in the Daphne pass. Here Daphne 
who had bestowed her love upon the Ocean, was 
walking, when seen and pursued by the enamored 
Apollo, and unable to reach her lover was trans- 
formed by Jupiter into a laurel-tree at the moment 
the god was about to embrace her, whereupon he 
plucked a branch therefrom and entwined it 
about his head; hence the origin of the laurel 
wreath. 

From here we continued along the Sacred 
Way to Eleusis, where are the ruins of the tem- 
ples of Ceres and Proserpine, in which the cele- 
brated Mysteries were held. . It was in Eleusis 
that Euclid, the great mathematician, was born, 
and from here, on a distant hill is visible the point 



286 A TOUR 

called the Seat of Xerxes from which he witnessed 
the destruction of his fleet in the battle of Sala- 
mis. 

At Megara we found crowds of Greeks assem- 
bled to celebrate the festival of Easter Tuesday. On 
the village green, with the sunny skies overhead, and 
frequent glimpses of the blue waters of the bay 
seen through the intervening foliage, the peasants 
dressed in their fanciful and beautiful costumes, — 
the rich ornaments of which are frequently in- 
herited through successive generations — held this 
their high festival with national games, dances, 
and music. 

After enjoying this gay and picturesque scene 
for several hours, we retraced our way to Athens, 
thence to Piraeus whence we embarked for Con- 
stantinople. 



CHAPTER XXIII. 

THE DARDANELLES : SEA OF MARMORA: CONSTANTINO- 
PLE : THE GOLDEN HORN : THE BOSPHORUS I THE 
BLACK SEA : BUDA-PESTH : THE DANUBE. 

Sailing through the Archipelago, we passed the 
island of Mitylene, the ancient Lesbos, which once 
rivalled Athens in learning and art, and where the 
'' burning Sappho loved and sang ;" and the island 
of Tenedos where the Greeks concealed them- 



AROUND THE WORLD. 28/ 

selves when they pretended to abandon the siege 
of Troy. 

From here entering the Dardanelles, or Helles- 
pont, we passed the site of ancient Troy ; the 
tombs of Ajax, Hector, and Achilles ; the harbor 
in which the fleet of Agamemnon lay at anchor ; 
and Abydos, at the narrowest part of the channel 
where Xerxes, with an army of 5,000,000 men, 
consumed seven days and nights in crossing, and 
which Leander nightly swam to visit his beloved 
Hero : .a feat which Lord Byron successfully imi- 
tated. 

After entering the Sea of Marmora we passed 
Mount Olympus in Asia Minor, at the foot of 
which is Brusa, the ancient capital of Turkey; and 
further on was Nicsea where the first Ecumenical 
Council was held. This was presided over by 
Constantine, and was convened for the purpose of 
compiling the New Testament ; when certain 
books were retained and others rejected by bal- 
lot ; A. D. 325. 

Constantinople, as known in a general way 
embraces four cities, namely : Stamboul, or Con- 
stantinople proper, Galata, Pera, and Scutari ; 
these are located on three approximating penin- 
sulas, and are separated by the Sea of Marmora, 
the Golden Horn, and the Bosphorus. Their ag- 
gregate population numbers 1,000,000 inhabitants 
comprising almost every nationality. The nobles 
and public officials are covetous and corrupt, 



288 A TOUR 

often selling offices to the highest bidder; and 
the lower classes are ignorant and fanatical; peace- 
ful enough habitually, but dangerous when their 
passions are aroused by their priests. 

The city occupies one of the finest natural 
situations in the world ; and as approached from 
the sea is very beautiful, exhibiting to view a 
multitude of domes, minarets and palaces, with a 
background of the foliage of the cypress-trees 
which shade the extensive cemeteries beyond the 
walls. Its interior is a perfect labyrinth of wind- 
ing, steep, and dirty streets ; many of them un- 
named, and all swarming with dogs — often as 
many as from 50 to 100 in a single block — who 
lie basking on the pavement all day to the great 
discomfort of pedestrians who must either walk 
around or step over the lazy canines. These for- 
lorn-looking brutes are owned by no one; dividing 
themselves into gangs, they inhabit certain self- 
apportioned districts, going every morning from 
house to house in search of food, thus monopo- 
lizing the office of public scavengers. This sys- 
tematic division of territory by these canines is 
something curious to the observer of animal char- 
acteristics ; peaceably inclined towards their fel- 
lows as long as they confine themselves to their 
own districts, woe to him who oversteps the 
boundary of his neighbor's province, for from that 
moment he is a doomed dog. 

That portion of the city known as Stamboul — 



AROUND THE WORLD. 289 

the ancient Byzantium, is on a tongue of land be- 
tween the Sea of Marmora and the Golden Horn. 
It was founded in 656 B. C. by Byzas, a Greek 
from Megara, who consulting the Oracle of 
Apollo at Delphi was commanded to build his 
city on this favorable site opposite Scutari. 

It was taken and rebuilt by Constantine A. D. 
328, who made it the capital of the Roman Em- 
pire, from which time it has borne his name ; and 
since then, through numerous sieges has been 
captured only twice; first in 1204 by the Cru- 
saders and lastly by the Turks in 1453 under 
Mohammed II., who slaughtered the Christians 
that had taken refuge in the Church of St. So- 
phia, and left the mark of his sword, and blood- 
stained hand on one of its pillars. 

The city is surrounded by a wall which though 
1 5 centuries old, is fairly well preserved ; that 
portion on the west, or land side, being very 
strong and protected by the Seven Towers, a 
fortress and prison on whose walls are carved the 
names of many a doomed captive. It was at this 
point the Russian army made its attack in the 
late war, and outside of the gates the treaty of 
peace was signed. 

The Acropolis, in which is the Seraglio, is 
situated on the extreme point of the peninsula 
and was for many centuries the imperial and min- 
isterial residence ; it is shut in by lofty walls with 
gates and towers nearly 3 miles in circumference, 

19 



290 A TOUR 

and is entered by the Sublime Porte — a gate 
once guarded by 50 sentinels — from which the 
government of the Ottoman Empire takes its 
name. Within the enclosure is the throne of the 
sultan, who, unseen, gave audience to his min- 
isters ; and here also is the harem prison through 
whose mysterious underground passages many a 
disgraced favorite was hurried to her doom be- 
neath the silent waters of the Bosphorus. 

Outside of the Gate to the right, is the stone 
block where State offenders were decapitated ; on 
crosses over the Gate, their heads were publicly 
exposed ; and on another stone to the left, their 
skulls were broken previous to burial. 

The Mosque of St. Sophia w^hich was built by 
the Emperor Justinian in 538 for a Christian 
church, is the finest Mohammedan mosque in 
existence, and compares favorably in size and 
grandeur with St. Peter's at Rome. This mosque 
which, it is said, employed the labor of 10,000 
workmen for 7 years, is in the form of a Latin 
cross surmounted by an immense dome surrounded 
by eight smaller ones and four minarets ; and is 
270 feet long, 243 wide, and 200 high. Of its 
170 columns of marble, granite and porphyry 
taken from various heathen temples, are those 
from the Temple of the Sun at Baalbec, those 
from the Temple of Diana at Ephesus, and others 
from the temples of Heliopolis and of Athens. 
On the walls are yet faintly discerned the figure of 



AROUND THE WORLD. 29 1 

Christ, and Christian symbols, painted over with 
the names of the Mohammedan prophets in 
Arabic characters 30 feet in length. 

The Mosque of SoHman the Magnificent, was 
built in 1560 by that sultan, to imitate and rival 
that of St. Sophia ; and in his tomb which adjoins 
it, is a model of the Kaaba at Mecca. Near this 
mosque was the Slave Market ; the grated pens, 
yet to be seen, where the unfortunate slaves were 
displayed for sale. 

The Mosque of Sultan Achmed ranks next in 
magnificence and is the only one that boasts of 
six minarets, which is the greatest number al- 
lowed ; the Kaaba at Mecca having seven, conse- 
quently all others are restricted to a less num- 
ber. 

Of the remaining mosques — each vieing with 
the other in magnificence — are those of Mo- 
hammed II. and of Benjazid ; the latter giving 
shelter to thousands of pigeons which being held 
sacred are fed at public expense. 

The finest of the mausolea of the sultans is 
that of Mahmoud ; the tomb within it, which is of 
great size, is covered with black velvet richly em- 
broidered in silver with Arabic characters and 
other Oriental designs, and inclosed by a silver 
railing; at its head are costly camers-hair shawls 
and the sultan's fez, in which is a magnificent 
diamond ornament. 

The Hippodrome Square, formerly a Greek 



292 A TOUR 

circus, contains the Obelisk of Theodosius brought 
from Heliopolis ; the Pillar of Constantine and 
the Serpentine Column ; the latter consisting of 
three twisted bronze serpents brought from Del- 
phi where it supported the tripod which the vic- 
torious Greeks dedicated to Apollo after the great 
Persian war when the army of Xerxes was 
defeated. It was in this Square that Justinian's 
great general, Belisarius, was eulogized for his suc- 
cess and conquest, and after having become old and 
blind, was suffered to be led by a child, and beg his 
daily bread at the foot of the very monuments 
his valor had preserved. Near this are the Burnt 
Column once surmounted by the bronze statue of 
Apollo, and the Thousand and One Columns — an 
underground cistern built by Constantine, whose 
grave lies neglected in the most wretched and 
filthy part of the city. 

Galata and Pera on the northern peninsula 
between the Golden Horn and the Bosphorus are 
those sections of Constantinople inhabited chiefly 
by the Franks, or Europeans, and here are the 
headquarters of all the foreign ambassadors. 

On the shore of the Bosphorus is the immense 
white Palace and harem of the present sultan who 
rejoices in the possession of 150 wives. Every 
Friday at noon the sultan can be seen on his way 
to the mosque, escorted by his ministers, 20 gen- 
erals, a large staff of officers in dazzling uniforms, 
and 5,000 troops ; with a suite of attendants, state 



AROUND THE WORLD. 293 

carriages and led saddle-horses. All this display 
for one man to pass 20 minutes in prayer ! 

The Dervishes, a religious sect of the Moham- 
medans, are divided into two orders — the 
Dancing, and the Howling. The former, wearing 
tall, pointed hats and full skirts, with outstretched 
arms, maintain an incessant spinning'motion, often 
revolving at the rate of fifty times a minute until 
the mind becomes so disassociated from the body, 
that they enter into a state of trance. The Howl- 
ing Dervishes observe the same ceremonies here, 
as those already described in Cairo, with the ad- 
dition of walking over the prostrate bodies of 
persons of all ranks and ages, who believe in this 
means of effecting cures of the diseases that afflict 
mankind. 

Scutari, on the Asiatic side of the Bosphorus, 
contains a fine summer palace of the sultan, with 
beautiful grounds, kiosks, and large cages con- 
taining fine specimens of tigers, lions and other 
wild animals. Near by is the hospital where Flor- 
ence Nightingale nursed the sick and wounded 
soldiers of the Crimea : and the English cemetery 
containing the graves of 25,000 victims of this 
war. 

In the Turkish cemetery beyond, is a monu- 
ment to the horse which was ridden by the mes- 
senger who was sent to announce the taking of 
Constantinople to Mohammed H. in 1453, and 
which fell dead immediately after. The government 



294 ^ TOUR 

employs a Dervish priest to place a sack of oats 
on the grave each night, and as by morning it has 
disappeared, the superstitious regard the fact as 
evidence of the horse's acceptance of the tribute. 

On the north of the city is the Golden Horn, 
an arm of the sea, so-called from the abundance 
of fish found in its waters by the first settlers, 
which yielded them an immense revenue. One of 
the favorite excursions from the city is to sail up 
the Golden Horn, passing the ruined palace of 
Belisarius, to the Sweet Waters the popular resort 
of the Turkish ladies ; for this purpose the caique 
is most in vogue, — a long, narrow, pointed boat, 
somewhat resembling a canoe, in the bottom of 
which its occupant is required to sit upright, and 
perfectly motionless, with the alternative of an 
impromptu plunge into the water. 

Leaving Constantinople we sailed through the 
Bosphorus passing numbers of palaces and 
mosques which border its shores; the Castle of 
Asia, and the Castle of Europe, the latter built by 
Mohammed H., and from which he shot marble 
cannon balls when besieging Constantinople. 

Therapia is a pretty summer resort of the 
ambassadors and wealthy citizens ; and the spot 
where Medea landed with Jason on his return 
from Colchis after the Argonautic expedition. 

Crossing the Black Sea we took a direct course 
to Buda-Pesth the capital of Hungary, situated on 
both banks of the Danube, with a population of 



AROUND THE WORLD. 295 

308,000. Buda on the right bank contains the 
Royal palace in the midst of beautiful terraced 
gardens, with a stern-looking old castle guarding 
the heights above ; and Pesth, on the left bank 
connected with Buda by several bridges, is a 
modern-built city, with wide streets containing 
several statues, and is celebrated- for its Tokay 
wines and immense flour mills. 

From here we took steamer on the Danube — 
a twelve hours' sail to Vienna, passing en route 
Presburg, Komorn, Gran, and other points of in- 
terest, but being wide and muddy, with low banks, 
the river does not compare here in point of 
scenery with that already described. 



CHAPTER XXIV. 

CARLSBAD : HOMBURG : WIESBADEN : EMS : BOULOGNE : 
AGINCOURT AND CRESSY: ST. OMER: AMIENS: DIEPPE. 

Having by this time traversed the length and 
breadth of Europe, with the most interesting por- 
tions of Morocco, Algeria, Egypt, Syria, and 
Turkey, and deeming it inadvisable during the 
summer months to continue our travels through 
the Red Sea and under the Equator, we concluded 
to while away the intermediate time visiting the 



296 A TOUR 

most noted and frequented watering-places of 
Europe. 

Carlsbad — or Charles bath — has a permanent 
population of 8,000, and is located in a ravine in 
the mountains of Bohemia. 

During the season, — from April to October, 
there are often as many as 40,000 visitors from all 
parts of the world, who come, not as votaries to 
the altars of Fashion, but as worshippers at the 
shrine of Hygeia. 

The mountains and hills environing Carlsbad 
are intersected by beautiful and romantic walks, 
where invalids seek in healthful exercise an ef- 
ficient adjunct to the medicinal effects of the 
waters. Owing to the oppressive atmosphere of 
the valley, visitors, as a rule, seek the cool shelter 
of the many pretty villas which dot the hill slopes 
surrounding it. The Springs, 9 in number, lo- 
cated along a stream in the bottom of the ra- 
vine, take their name from the Emperor Charles 
IV. who discovered them while hunting, his dog 
chancing to fall into one, and emerging scalded 
by the natural heat of the water: the Emperor, 
afterwards returning here, was benefited by the 
baths which he took for wounds received in 
battle. 

The principal of these Springs are the Miihl- 
brun, and the Sprudel, whose waters are 165 de- 
grees Fahrenheit, and contain sulphate, carbonate 
of soda, lime and potash, considered highly bene- 



AROUND THE WORLD. 297 

ficial for rheumatism, liver, and kidney diseases. 
Every morning from six to eight, while the band 
plays, crowds of visitors may be seen strolling 
towards the springs carrying their small glasses, 
and taking their places in line, to await their turn 
to be served from the medicinal waters. 

Homburg, one of the most famous watering 
places of Germany, is 15 miles from Frankfort, 
and is situated on a commanding elevation. 

The Kursaal is decidedly the handsomest 
building of its kind in the Empire ; its theatre, 
concert, and ball-rooms, together with the exten- 
sive grounds and promenades surrounding it, 
combine to render it a delightful place of resort. 
The springs, four in number, are beneficial for 
rheumatism and skin diseases ; while the large 
park in which they are situated, laid out in flower- 
bordered walks, and the conservatories filled with 
orange-trees and other tropical plants, add much 
to the attractions of the place. 

Wiesbaden, with a population of 50,000 is the 
capital of the Grand Duchy of Nassau in Prussia, 
and the residence of the Grand Duke ; it is 
beautifully situated in the midst of gardens, or- 
chards, and handsome villas. 

The springs, numbering 30, which are alkaline, 
and of a high temperature, were known to the 
Romans ; and are frequented during the season, 
by at least 30,000 people. Its Kursaal which is 
devoted to reading-rooms, restaurant, and formerly 



298 A TOUR 

to gambling-halls, is in the midst of a park con- 
taining a beautiful little lake on the margin of 
which are tables and chairs where visitors retire 
after dinner to sip their coffee, while listening to a 
fine band of music. 

Ems, another fashionable place of resort much 
frequented by Germans and Russians, is situated 
on both banks of the river Lahn, in a long narrow 
valley shut in on both sides by steep wooded 
hills, and has a population of 6,000. It has a fine 
Kursaal and a covered colonnade for promenading 
in inclement weather besides many shaded walks. 
It was here the Emperor — then King William — 
gave Benedetti his final answer — July, 1870 — 
which led to the Franco-Prussian war. 

Boulogne derives its importance from its prox- 
imity to the shores of England, and is a fashion- 
able watering-place much frequented by English 
visitors for its surf bathing. On one side of the 
harbor is the circular basin excavated by Napoleon 
to contain the flat-bottomed boats intended to 
convey his army of invasion to England. 

Not far from Boulogne are the celebrated 
battle-fields of Agincourt and Cressy ; in connec- 
tion with the latter of which is noted the incident 
of the brave blind king of Bohemia anxious to 
participate in the battle, insisting upon being led 
by two knights into the thickest of the fight, 
where he fell covered with wounds. His standard 
was presented to the Black Prince after the Eng- 



AROUND THE WORLD. 299 

lish victory, who adopted for his own, the crest it 
bore, — three ostrich plumes with the motto Ich 
Dieii,- — I serve, — which has been borne ever 
since by the successive Princes of Wales. 

The town of St. Omer, one of the oldest in 
France, is situated in this vicinity. It contains 
the ruins of a monastery, whose founder, Omer, 
assuming the cowl at the death of his wife, de- 
voted his large possessions to this purpose ; for 
which deed he was afterwards canonized. His 
descendant Geoffrey de St. Omer was one of the 
founders of the order of Knights Templar in the 
time of the Crusades. 

Amiens, on the Somme, has in its Cathedral a 
head which the inhabitants claim as that of John 
the Baptist. 

Dieppe is another popular bathing resort par- 
ticularly frequented by the French people, and is 
situated on the coast of Normandy in northern 
France. 



CHAPTER XXV. 

PARIS : BRINDISI : PORT SAID : SUEZ CANAL : RED SEA : 
ADEN : INDIAN OCEAN I COLOMBO : KANDY. 

After equipping ourselves in Paris with medi- 
cines, clothing, and other requirements necessary 
for travel through hot, unhealthy, and dangerous 



366 A TOtm 

countries, we took rail direct for Brindisi, and 
from there, steamer for Port Said at the head of 
the Suez Canal. 

The Suez Canal from Port Said to Suez, a 
distance of lOO miles, is a water highway extend- 
ing through a number of lakes and ancient 
canals, — '■ and connects the waters of the Mediter- 
ranean with those of the Red Sea. The project 
of constructing this canal was entertained by both 
Napoleon L and Mohammed Ali ; but it was re- 
served for Vicomte Ferdinand de Lesseps of 
France to bring it to a successful issue. He first 
conceived the idea while in quarantine at Alex- 
andria, in 183 1 ; in 1859 ^ company was formed of 
21,000 Frenchmen, inaugurated by Prince Jer- 
ome, who took shares when the entire capital 
of 200,000,000 francs, $40,000,000, was sub- 
scribed; and in 1869, the work being completed, 
the canal was opened with great festivities under 
the auspices of the Empress Eugenie, the Em- 
peror of Austria, the Crown Prince of Prussia, 
and other guests of the Khedive. 

The Canal is 26 feet deep, and 72 feet wide, 
and while being navigable for the largest steamers 
and iron-clads, sidings are necessary to enable 
them to pass one another. This route has short- 
ened the trip from London to Bombay by 5,000 
miles, or 24 days, and proves such a benefit 
to the English especially, — as two-thirds of the 
vessels passing through it carry the EngHsh flag — 



, AROUND THE WORLD. 30I 

that in 1875 she secured, out of the 400,000 
shares, 176,602 shares of the stock. The canal 
alternately passes through miles of sandy desert, 
and large, bitter, and salt lakes ; while the great, 
ungainly dredging machines are kept constantly 
at work clearing the channel, on which the im- 
mense naval vessels of the English government 
are frequently seen going to or from India. The 
rate of speed allowed steamers on this canal, is six 
miles an hour, and even this washes away the 
banks considerably, and fills up the channel. 

The principal towns passed are Daphne the 
Tahpannes of the Bible, and Kantara, formerly 
called Meses. This town, one of the most ancient 
in the world, is the spot where the Asian tribes 
entered to settle Egypt, and was the birthplace of 
Horus — the oldest of the Egyptian deities — like 
the Greek Apollo, typical of the Sun. Further on 
is Ismailia, on the shore of Lake Timsah, now a 
healthy and thriving town of 3,000 inhabitants, 
on a spot where a few years ago no living thing 
could exist. 

Suez, with a population of 13,000, is on the 
gulf of the same name near the Red Sea. It owes 
its importance to its being a station on the route 
of pilgrimages to Mecca ; and also for vessels ply- 
ing between European ports and India. Four 
miles below the town on the African shore are the 
mountains Gebel Attakah, or Mountains of De- 
liverance—at which point tradition locates the 



302 A TOUR 

spot where Moses crossed the Red Sea with the 
Children of Israel. Our guide at this place who 
spoke with the assurance of a contemporary in- 
formed us it was not Pharaoh, but a horde of 
Bedouin Arabs — who then, as to-day, lived by 
attacking travellers on the desert — that followed 
the Israelites for the purpose of plunder : Moses 
being acquainted with the rapid rise and fall of the 
water, selected a favorable time to effect a cross- 
ing, while the Bedouins, ignorant of such matters, 
were in their wake when the returning tide over- 
took them and they were drowned. As a proof 
of his assertion the guide contended that had the 
pursuing party been Pharaoh's host, his chariots 
would undoubtedly have been found afterwards. 
However much our guide's account may differ 
from Biblical records, the fact is incontestable that 
Napoleon once narrowly escaped sharing the same 
fate as that of the pursuers of the Israelites. 

On the Asiatic coast further south, on the Red 
Sea we saw the Wells of Moses, dug by the Chil- 
dren of Israel after reaching the shore in safety; 
and further on at the extreme end of the peninsula, 
is Mount Sinai where it is said Moses received 
from God the Ten Commandments. The intense 
heat of the Red Sea, swept by the hot desert 
winds of either shore, now began to make itself 
felt, and our steamer keeping in view the coast of 
Hedjaz Jemen in Arabia, we passed Jeddah, the 
sea-port for Mecca and Medina. This latter city, 



^ AROUND THE WORLD. 303 

only second in the veneration of the Mohamme- 
dans, contains the remains of the Prophet in a 
silver coffin beneath a marble slab, over which a 
fine mosque is erected. It was hither the Prophet 
fled from Mecca, a distance of 240 miles, when 
the skeptical, deaf to his teachings, rose up against 
him, and from this flight, or Hegira, dates the 
Mohammedan era. Mecca, the birthplace of Mo- 
hammed, and the Rome of Islam, is 65 miles from 
Jeddah. Its natural position hemmed in by hills, its 
passes guarded by Arab sentinels, and the fanati- 
cism of its inhabitants, render it almost impossi- 
ble of access to Christians. 

Mr. Keane, an Englishman, led by a spirit 
of adventure, accomplished the perilous feat of ef- 
fecting an entrance, disguised as a Mussulman, into 
this city : but being detected, he was stoned in 
the streets and escaped by almost a miracle. 

The following account may prove interesting 
to those who, like ourselves, have been debarred 
the privilege of entering the sacred precincts. 

''Mecca," says Mr. Keane, ''is a walled city, 
situated in a narrow, sandy valley, inclosed by 
rocky eminences from 200 to 500 feet high. The 
valley is scarcely 600 yards broad, narrowing 
southward to about 300 where it is almost blocked 
by the Beit-Ullah — God's House — the great 
mosque enshrining the famous Kaaba. The entire 
building forms a rectangle 250 yards long by 200 
broad, the north side of which is formed by four 



304 A TOUR 

rows of pillars, the other three, of three rows each, 
arched over, and so disposed, that each group of 
four supports a srnall cupola, making in all 152 of 
these structures along its four sides. The oldest 
pillars are hewn out of the neighboring rocks ; the 
others consisting of marble, granite, and porphyry, 
are mostly offerings of the faithful, and include 
some from the most ancient temples of Syria and 
Egypt. Within the mosque is the Kaaba, a small, 
massive building about 40 feet in height. Tradition 
associates this unpretending and curious little 
structure with a multitude of marvels and legends. 
On the north side is a door- way leading over steps 
inlaid with gold and silver, to the inner sanctuary, 
in one corner of which lies the famous Black 
Stone which they claim was a gift from God to 
Abraham, but which is evidently a meteoric for- 
mation descended, if not from heaven, at least 
from the interplanetary space. To the west of the 
Kaaba is the Golden Channel carrying off from 
the flat roof the rain-water which is reputed to be 
endowed with miraculous properties.'' 

Continuing through the Red Sea we passed 
Mocha noted for its finely-flavored coffee, and 
Aden, located on a rocky, volcanic soil, serving 
England as a coaling station, and as a guard to 
the Red Sea. In our sail through the Arabian 
Sea and Indian Ocean, the Southern Cross, seen 
only" in these latitudes, shone brightly in the 
heavens above us by night, and nearing India we 



AROUND THE WORLD. 305 

passed the Maldive Islands, which are coral 
reefs — formed by the labor of millions of in- 
sects — with small lakes in their midst, fringed by 
rows of palm-trees. 

On approaching the island of Ceylon, our at- 
tention was first attracted to the peculiar boat 
used by the natives. It is about 20 feet long, 20 
inches wide, and 3 feet deep, with a balance log 
the same length of the boat, 10 to 20 feet off one 
side, and attached to it by bamboo poles ; this 
out-rigger, as it is called, is always kept to wind- 
ward, and when a breeze springs up, one, two, or 
three men, will sit on it in order to balance the 
boat, and in speaking of a storm they call it a one, 
two, or three man breeze according to the number 
of men on the outrigger; these boats sail at the 
rate of 10 miles an hour, and venture 20 miles out 
to sea in the severest storm. 

Ceylon is a pear-shaped island at the extreme 
south of India and has a population of 2,500,000. 
Its government is entirely separate from that of 
India, and the governor is appointed by the 
British Crown. It is almost connected with India 
by a rocky reef called Adam's Bridge, so named 
from the Mohammedan legend that on his expul- 
sion from the Garden of Eden Adam passed over 
this singular causeway into Ceylon. By the 
Brahmans the Island is called the Resplendent ; 
by the Buddhists, a Pearl upon the brow of India; 
by the Chinese, the Island of Jewels, and by the 



306 A TOUR 

Greeks, the Land of the Hyacinth and the Ruby. It 
was to Ceylon the ships of Solomon came for gold, 
silver, ivory, apes, and peacocks ; and Fable has 
also contributed to its fame by locating it as the 
place where Sindbad of the Arabian Nights was 
wrecked. 

Near a marine mountain of lodestone his ship 
fell asunder, and the nails and every iron thing 
about it flew to the lodestone : even to this day, 
native boats are constructed without the use of 
iron. 

The island is filled with the richest and rank- 
est of tropical growth ; wild elephants and other 
large animals abound, and the spices, ivory, and 
precious stones — such as cat's-eye, sapphires, 
pearls, and rubies found here are world-re- 
nowned. 

Ceylon, though the stronghold of Buddhism, 
contains many followers of the Christian, Mo- 
hammedan, and Hindu faiths, while Polyandry, 
which allows of a plurality of husbands, is largely 
practised here. 

Colombo, which was named by the Portu- 
guese after Columbus, has a population of 98,000. 
It extends about 4 miles along the coast and is 
divided into the European quarter, and the black, 
or native, town. Here one sees the Singhalese 
chiefly as servants — the men wearing skirts, and 
their long hair in a knot at the back of the head 
held by a high comb, giving them a resemblance 



AROUND THE WORLD. 307 

to women ; the Parsees as merchants ; the Tamils 
as laborers, and the Moors as retail dealers ; while 
upon the Coolies, or lower classes, devolves the 
menial duties : these latter wear only a cloth about 
their loins, and oil their bodies until they shine 
like polished ebony. 

The natives as a rule are clean- in their personal 
habits, but their mouths are invariably discolored 
from betel chewing. This consists of a compound 
of the leaves of the betel, some lime, and the sliced 
nuts of the Areca palm, which quenches thirst 
without being intoxicating in its effects, while it 
possesses strong tonic properties. This mixture, on 
being chewed, imparts a blood-like hue to the 
mouth, and has been used by the natives, both 
here and in India from time immemorial. 

There are palms in great variety around Col- 
ombo, but the cocoanut is the most plentiful, and 
yields many of the necessities of life : its fruit 
furnishes food ; its shell drinking- vessels ; its milk 
palm wine and sugar; its stems material for 
building, and its leaves, roofs, matting, baskets, 
and paper. 

We drove through the European quarter, and 
along the beach, seeing nothing particularly no- 
ticeable beyond the cinnamon gardens, which are 
cultivated for the bark of this shrub. 

In the native quarter we visited a Buddhist 
temple in which is a gilded, recumbent figure of 
Buddha, measuring 80 feet in length, with angels 



308 A TOUR 

with drawn swords, keeping watch over him. A 
poetic feature of the Buddhist rehgion is the 
floral sacrifice, and in this temple we first saw, 
among a great variety of lovely flowers offered at 
the shrine of Buddha, the sacred lotus. 

Driving 3 miles out of town, through the 
rankest of tropical vegetation, we called on Arabi 
Pasha, who was exiled here after the battle of Tel- 
el-Kebir in Egypt, and is now a State prisoner of 
the English. Arabi is a man of large frame and 
mild countenance, speaking some French, and but 
a little English. He received us with native grace 
and hospitality, offering us refreshments and 
tobacco, and rendering our visit an altogether 
pleasant one. 

From Colombo we took the rail 75 miles to 
Kandy — the ancient capital of Ceylon — situated 
in the interior of the island. The entire route af- 
forded a varied and grand panorama, winding 
through vales and among hills, combining Alpine 
grandeur with tropical luxuriance. 

Kandy though only a small village is beauti- 
fully situated on the shores of a miniature artifi- 
cial lake. It has lovely walks and drives, and 
handsome villas dot the hill-sides which environ 
the lake : on the margin of which is the palace of 
the late king of Ceylon and a fine Buddhist tem- 
ple enshrining a tooth of Buddha, an object of 
great veneration, and exposed to the view of wor- 
shippers only on rare occasions. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 309 

Near Kandy we visited large plantations of tea 
and coffee, and saw growing the clove-tree from 
whose flower-bud the spice is named ; the 
nutmeg, the outer covering of which is the 
mace : also the vanilla, cocoa, rubber, and ban- 
yan trees, and clumps of gigantic bamboos. 
Here we saw almost every variety of the palm ; 
the Travellers' — one stem of which, when cut, 
yields a quart of the purest drinking water ; the 
Palmyra, from the sap of which a wine is pro- 
duced, and the Taliput, whose single leaf measures 
10x14 feet, and will shelter 15 men. It blooms 
but once in 100 years, and has a flower, which we 
were fortunate enough to see, measuring twelve 
feet in circumference, and of a yellowish color. 

Returning to Colombo, we took steamer to the 
extreme southern point of India, landing at Tu- 
ticorin. 



CHAPTER XXVI. 

INDIA : ITS HISTORY : ITS RELIGIONS : BRAHMANISM ! 
BUDDHISM : HINDUISM : MOHAMMEDANISM : THE 
JAINS : THE PARSEES : CASTE. 

India, the vast Asiatic possession of Great 
Britain, stretching 2,000 miles from north to 
south, and nearly as many from east to west, has 



3IO A TOUR 

an area of 1,490,000 square miles; and embraces 
almost every variety of climate ; with high moun- 
tains, low marshes, densely-populated and unin- 
habited regions, immense rivers, and jungles in- 
fested by the most formidable of wild beasts. Its 
chief official is the Viceroy, who resides at its capital, 
Calcutta, and under him are native independent 
princes, lieutenant-governors, and agents who pre- 
side over states and districts. 

The population of India at the present time 
numbers 250,000,000 of people of different re- 
ligious sects, and speaking many languages and 
dialects. As this country is the mother of the 
oldest religions known, it will not be amiss to 
give here some details of its history and religious 
creeds, as derived from other authors, and from 
our own observation. 

The early non-Aryan races of India, divided 
into three great groups, are the Thibeto-Birmans, 
the Kolarians, and the Dravidians. 

The Thibeto-Birmans occupy the Himalayas, 
and include many mountain tribes, akin in feature 
and in tongue to the Chinese. 

The Kolarians, supposed to have come in 
through the mountain passes, are now scattered 
in every direction, their chief tribes being the 
Sontals and Khands. 

The Dravidians who also came through the 
mountain passes, forced their way on in a com- 
pact phalanx, and found a secure resting-place in 



AROUND THE WORLD. 31I 

the south. They attained a high state of cultiva- 
tion long before the Aryan invasion ; their chief 
languages, polished and cultivated, are the Tel- 
ugu — melodious as Italian ; the Tamil — rich in 
its literature ; the Canarese and the Malayan. 

The Aryans — or nobles — is the wide-spread 
Indo-European race whose w^estern branch ex- 
tends over Greece, Italy, Germany, and England. 
They, in turn, entered India by the northwest 
passes, speaking the stately Sanscrit, driving the 
inferior hordes before them, and finding a perma- 
nent home in the great river plains. They soon 
asserted their supremacy over the earlier people, 
as Brahmans and Rajputs ; they established Caste 
and gave to the East the two giant religious sys- 
tems of Brahmanism and Buddhism ; their lan- 
guages were the Sanscrit and Pali with their 
branches Panjabi, Sindhi, Hindi, Bengali, Mar- 
hatti and Singali. 

The Greeks invaded India 327 B. C. under 
Alexander the Great ; but left no permanent set- 
tlement, though the Greek type of sculpture long 
survived in Indian art. Scythian influences and a 
Scythian era also marked the annals of India from 
57 B. C. downwards; and some of the Rajput 
tribes are traced back to them. 

The next wave of conquest was that of the 
Mohammedans, who entered India in the nth 
century, and made successive conquests. They 
brought w^ith them their native Arabic; and 



312 A TOUR 

Arabic inscriptions adorn the magnificent mos- 
ques, halls, palaces and tombs, which they erected 
chiefly in the 17th century. 

Brahmanism, the religion of the Aryans which 
found its earliest exposition in the hymns of the 
Vedas, and its development in the institutions of 
Manu, was originally monotheistic. 

The Rig- Veda, usually placed 1400 B. C. 
consists of a series of hymns addressed to the 
bright friendly gods Divas — literally the shining 
ones, the great powers of Nature, the father- 
heaven, the mother-earth, the encompassing sky, 
Brahma, the creator, has no separate existence in 
these hymns; Vishnu, the preserver, is but slightly 
known ; and Siva, the destroyer, appears as Rudra 
the god of tempest. The potent prayer was 
called Brahma, and he who offered it was called 
Brahman. Already, in the Vedas, sacrifices are 
enjoined ; the man-sacrifice, and the great horse- 
sacrifice of 600 animals that was substituted for 
it. Thus, by degrees, sprang up the four great 
Castes; the Brahmans, or priests, sprung from the 
mouth of Brahma, and distinguished by a sacred 
cord about their bodies ; the Kshatriyas, or war- 
riors, now called Rajputs, taken from his arms; 
the Vaisyas, or husbandmen from his thighs and 
beneath these, the Sudras, or servile class, the 
slaves of black descent issued from his feet. 

After a long struggle between the priestly 
and warrior castes, the former prevailed and es- 



AROUND THE WORLD. 313 

tablished their supremacy as the makers of San- 
scrit Hterature ; and the priests and teachers of 
the people. The Brahman's Hfe was one of dis- 
cipHne ; study occupied his early years ; then 
marriage and family life ; next seclusion and de- 
votion ; and lastly mendicancy, asceticism and 
absorption. 

Throughout life he practised strict abstinence, 
recognizing the transitory vanity of human life. 
'' What is the world ?" says a Brahman sage : '' It 
is even as the bough of a tree on which a bird 
rests for a night, and in the morning flies away." 
Self-culture, self-restraint, was the ideal life. 
Hence amidst all the changes of history the Brah- 
man in India, refined in feature, tall and slender, 
has calmly ruled. Brahmanism in its growth and 
spread is strikingly illustrated by the teachings of 
Christianity regarding the lapse of man from a 
pure and simple faith — from the knowledge of 
God into idolatry and superstition : '^ knowing 
God they glorified him not as God, but became 
vain in their imaginations." Brahma, the Crea- 
tor, became a mere abstract name ; Vishnu, the 
Preserver received 10 avatars — or incarnations — 
Rama and Krishna being the chief; and Siva, the 
Destroyer and Reproducer, became the embodi- 
ment of wrath and lust. The most prominent 
doctrine of philosophical Brahmanism became the 
transmigration of souls ; ending with absorption 
in the Supreme Being. 



314 A TOUR 

Buddhism, now the reHgion in a degraded 
form of one-third of the human race, had its ori- 
gin in India, whence it has long been exiled. Its 
founder was Gautama son of a prince of the Sak- 
yan clan, born 623 B. C. a hundred miles north of 
Benares. After his student and married life he re- 
tired when 30 years old to a cave near Gaya in 
the Patna district, and this epoch in his life is 
called his Great Renunciation. But instead of 
finding peace in his fasting and seclusion, he 
reached a crisis of despair, passed through a con- 
flict with the powers of darkness, and emerged 
with new light and knowledge, to be henceforth 
known as Buddha the Enlightened, and this era 
that of the Enlightenment. 

Now he began to live and preach a new life of 
love and kindness among men, condemning Caste, 
proclaiming the equality of men, and setting be- 
fore them Nirvana, that is, cessation, not of exist- 
ence, but of sin and sorrow as their final goal. 
He began his public teaching at the age of 36, and 
for 40 years he labored. His last words were : 
*' Work out your own salvation with diligence, 
keep your minds upon my teaching, all things 
change, but this changes not. I desire to depart, 
I desire Nirvana, the eternal rest." The date of 
his death is 543 B. C. 

Buddhism was a missionary religion and it 
spread as a gospel throughout India. Its apostle 
was Asoka, grandson of Chandra Gupta, and king 



AROUND THE WORLD. 315 

of Maghada, whose edict in Pali inscriptions indi- 
cate the humanity and kindness of the teachings 
which the system promulgated. 

The son of Asoka became a Buddhist mission- 
ary to Ceylon, and the systems spread as the 
Topes and Caves of early Buddhism indicate. But 
it borrowed much from Brahmanism : namely, the 
doctrine of transmigration, the practice of ascet- 
icism, and the recognition of a priestly order. 
Relics of Buddha were cherished and adored and 
shrines built over them ; images of the Saint him- 
self were multiplied, and became objects of wor- 
ship. 

But in process of time Brahmanism triumphed 
over its rival. Buddhism lacked a personal god, 
it was a form of atheism ; it failed to recognize the 
doctrine of the expiation of human sin by sacri- 
fice ; and here the Brahmans had the advantage, 
and in time regained their influence and their su- 
premacy. By the loth century of the Christian 
era, Buddhism was in India an exiled religion, 
finding its home in Thibet and Ceylon, in China, 
and in Burmah. It has since degenerated into an 
elaborate ritualism akin to Romanism, with the 
image of Buddha in place of the crucifix; the god- 
dess of Mercy for the Virgin; a shaven, robed and 
celibate priesthood; altar and lights; rosary and 
penance; monks and nuns; purgatory and hell, 
and in Thibet a pope. 

Hinduism is the modern development in India, 



3l6 A TOUR 

of the religion of the Brahmans, modified by 
Buddhist teachings; and here again we find only 
degeneracy from the primitive standards. The 
Brahmans or priests themselves have in many 
places degenerated, and are self-indulgent, gross, 
immoral, worldly-minded men. Caste with all its 
tyranny prevails. Women are immured in igno- 
rance, and doomed to slavery : married in child- 
hood — as early as the age of ten — if the child- 
husband dies she is a widow for life, doomed to 
drudgery and neglect. The temples are adorned 
with revolting and obscene sculptures and frescoes, 
the images of idolatry are hideous, and the objects 
of adoration countless. 

Vishnuism, or the worship of Vishnu and his 
many incarnations, and Sivaism — or the worship 
of Siva, form in the present day, the very heart 
and soul of Hinduism. The old idolatry of ser- 
pents, trees, and stones, borrowed perhaps from 
the non- Aryan tribes has been adopted into the 
system, and the Linga bedaubed with oil and red 
ochre is the popular idol. 

The Puranas are the writings that form the 
basis of modern Hinduism, and they disclose 
Phallic worship in all its loathsomeness. 

The chief daily ceremony in all temples, after 
washing and decorating the idol, and burning 
lights and incense before it, consists in offering it 
food — rice, sweetmeats, flowers, and grain. The 
smallest village has its own peculiar symbols of 



AROUND THE WORLD. 317 

worship, which are often merely rough blocks of 
stone. 

Mohammedanism first appeared in India about 
the iith century, and gained a permanent foot- 
ing by the conquest of the Moslems. In the 17th 
century its sway was universal in north India. It 
proclaimed the doctrine : '' there is but one God 
and Mohammed is His Prophet;" and it built its 
giant mosques in the great cities, and made many 
converts. The Mohammedan population to-day 
numbers 45,000,000. 

The Jains, a small, but very ancient sect, are 
akin to the Buddhists, but have an independent 
origin. They are a very wealthy community dis- 
tinguished by the beauty and costliness of their 
temples, and the multiplicity of their hospitals, 
especially those for diseased and decrepit animals. 
They lay great stress upon the doctrine of the 
transmigration of souls, and actually strain the 
water which they would drink, brush the seat upon 
which they would sit, or the path upon which they 
would walk lest they should unwittingly crush an 
insect. Their distinctive feature is saint worship, 
and their most important holy place of pilgrimage 
is Mount Abu. 

The Parsees are of Persian origin and are 
settled chiefly in Bombay where they have be- 
come wealthy and prosperous. They hold the 
tenets of Zoroaster, and worship the four elements, 
fire, air, earth and water. The Supreme Being 



3l8 A TOUR 

called Ormuzd is, with them, not self-existing but 
derived. Their scriptures are the Zend-Avesta, 
which contains the doctrines of Zoroaster. 

The religious and social system of India, is 
everywhere based on the institution of Caste 
which was originally introduced, as before men- 
tioned, to uphold the political supremacy of the 
fair Aryan intruders over the dark aborigines ; 
but before its introduction a considerable inter- 
mixture had already taken place except perhaps 
among the very highest classes of the Aryan con- 
querors. The indigenous elements being by far 
the most numerous, the Aryans were thus threat- 
ened with ultimate absorption ; and in fact had 
become in many places largely assimilated with 
the native. They could be saved from extinction 
only by checking further alliances ; marriage with 
the dark races was accordingly forbidden, and a 
definite grade assigned to each shade of color 
which had already been developed. Hence Caste, 
originally meant color, and had therefore an eth- 
nical value. But once established, the institution 
gradually acquired an indefinite development, and 
the four original castes, already mentioned, have 
in the course of ages expanded into minute sub- 
divisions almost innumerable. 

The last census returns give 2,500 main di- 
visions ; and in Madras alone, nearly 4,000 minor 
distinctions. The consequence is, that every 
child is born in a caste, and must follow the oc- 



AROUND THE WORLD. 319 

cupation of its father, neither rising above nor fall- 
ing below it, hence in the domestic provinces, it re- 
quires a dozen men to accomplish the work of one 
ordinary servant ; the punker-boy can do nothing 
else but pull the punker — or swinging fan, 
which is an invariable feature of Indian life ; the 
man who makes the fire cannot remove the ashes, 
or the one who makes the bed, sweep the room ; 
while the Brahman feels himself defiled if he 
comes in contact with the Sudra, and immediately 
seeks through prayer to rid himself of the pollu- 
tion. 



CHAPTER XXVII. 

TUTICORIN : MADURA I TRICHINOPOLY : SERINGHAM : 
TANJORE : CHILLAMBARAM : MADRAS. 

Travel in India is for the most part attended by 
discomforts ; the government bungalow — or 
rest-house — is often only a place of shelter, and 
the hotels are little better, even in the largest 
cities, and one is compelled to provide himself 
not only with a servant, but with bedding, and 
often with provisions. The railroad officials are 
mostly natives ; and one may travel for days on 
some of the lines without seeing a white face. 
The first-class cars are but few, and in them are 
separate compartments for men and women. 



320 A TOUR 

To resume the course of our travels : after 
landing at Tuticorin — a wretched, dirty town in 
the extreme south of India — celebrated only for 
its pearl-fisheries, we took rail to traverse the 
country in its entire length and breadth. 

At Madura we first saw the masterpieces of 
Dravidian architecture for which the Madras 
presidency is famous; and which, in their num- 
ber, their extent, and the elaborateness of their 
workmanship astonish and almost bewilder the 
beholder. The Dravidians offered their labor to 
their gods, and reared immense temples to their 
worship. 

These temples, though differing in size and 
magnificence, are similar in their component 
parts. The most conspicuous feature from the 
exterior are the Gopuras or pyramidal gate- ways, 
towering from 150 to 300 feet high; elaborately 
carved with grotesque figures in stone of their 
gods, which are from 6 to 10 feet each in height, 
painted in every color imaginable, and in various 
attitudes ; some having as many as 20 heads and 
arms. These figures are symbolical of the gods 
they represent; rising one above the other in 
diminishing tiers, some ten to fifteen, over the 
arched gateway ; the summit crowned by an im- 
mense head with open mouth, great teeth and 
eyes, grinning down upon the inferior gods with 
Satanic mien. 

The Vimana, or adytum, is a square, sur- 



AROUND THE WORLD. 32 1 

mounted by a pyramidal roof overlaid with gold ; 
here in a dark cubical cell, the idol with its altar 
is immured, and a lamp is kept dimly burning 
night and day. Around the Vimana, and leading 
up to it, usually from the four points of the com- 
pass, are the Mantapas, or huge stone porches, 
richly carved : besides these, are ' the Hall of a 
Thousand Pillars, all of which are of elaborately 
carved stone from 10 to 40 feet high, supporting 
a flat roof; and the Sacred Tank surrounded with 
corridors, and with flights of steps leading down 
into the water. All these gates, halls, courts, and 
shrine, centred around, and leading to the ady- 
tum, form the monster temples of South India 
covering from 30 to 40 acres, and called Pago- 
das. 

The pagoda — or temple of Siva in Madura, 
to which the above general description applies, 
covers 20 acres, and though not the largest, is one 
of the most interesting and best preserved in In- 
dia. It dates from the 3d century B. C. and is 
dedicated jointly to Menakshi, the fish-eyed god- 
dess and to Siva. 

Entering the Temple we passed through a 
succession of 9 gopuras, and along corridors 
used for bazaars, where the principal articles sold 
were paints and oil, essentials of their religious 
rites, and entered the hall of a Thousand Pillars, 
one of which is subdivided into 24 smaller ones, 
and all are elaborately carved in stone ; one of 

21 



322 A TOUR 

these pillars represents the Devil holding a woman 
by the hand in the act of leading her into tempta- 
tion ; and boys are taught, as a religious duty to 
spit in his face. In one of the courts was the 
sacred tank filled with dirty water in which the 
worshippers were busily engaged cleansing them- 
selves from their sins ; and continuing on we passed 
through halls and apartments whore the columns 
represented men on horseback hewn out of the 
solid blocks of granite. In this temple there are 
three different statues of the Bull sacred to Siva, 
besides many other idols, and all are covered with 
oil and besmeared with red ochre which impreg- 
nates the atmosphere with a disagreeable odor. 
In the centre of the main hall of worship was an 
immense live elephant painted in many colors and 
used in their religious processions in transporting 
the idol. 

It chanced to be a fete day when we visited 
the temple, and we found it crowded with the 
natives. The men, nude except for the loin cloth, 
bore on their foreheads in painted characters token 
of their caste, and of the special idols of their 
worship : while the women profusely decked with 
ornaments — ear, nose, finger, and toe-rings, 
bracelets and anklets, necklaces and diadems of 
glass and tinsel — had their faces and bodies en- 
tirely besmeared with yellow paint. 

A prominent building in Madura, now partly 
in ruins, is the palace of Tirumala, one of the 



AROUND THE WORLD. 323 

greatest rulers of the province, built by him in 
1623. The Throne-room or Hall of Audience is 
of a peculiar style of architecture, the ceiling con- 
sisting of several domes supported by massive 
pillars. 

A lovely drive of three miles beyond the city, 
shaded with banyan trees meeting overhead, leads 
to the Teppu-Kulam — a large, sacred tank con- 
taining in its centre a small island upon which is 
a temple ; once a year it is illuminated, and the 
idol placed in a boat and rowed on the waters 
with the pomp and circumstance of their religious 
rites. 

Continuing by rail to Trichinopoly Junction 
where we passed the night, Ave drove next morn- 
ing a distance of 3 miles to Trichinopoly Fort, the 
main feature of which town is the rock fortress 
from which it takes its name. It rises abruptly 
500 feet above the level of the sea, and towers 
250 feet over the town ; while half-way up the 
rock, and built against it, is a temple dedicated to 
Siva. 

A three mile drive northward from Trichino- 
poly brought us to the famous Dravidian temples 
of Seringham, the largest in all India, built on an 
island formed by the branches of the Cavery river. 
The greatest of these pagodas is seven miles in 
circumference ; and includes many bazaars and 
streets of Brahmans' houses, more resembling a 
walled town than a temple. In its centre shrine 



324 A TOUR 

we saw the Golden Idol one of whose glittering 
eyes, abstracted in the last century by a French 
deserter, proved to be a diamond of almost match- 
less purity : it was subsequently purchased by 
Count Orlofif and presented by him to his royal 
mistress Catherine. This gem known as the 
Orloff diamond, now figures as the most conspicu- 
ous ornament in the imperial sceptre of Russia. 

While this temple differs but little from the 
general description already given of the Indian 
pagodas, the wonderful carvings in its Column 
Hall are worthy of special notice. Its pillars, 
formed from a single block of granite, are sculp- 
tured into grotesque, gigantic figures of men in 
the act of spearing tigers, others mounted on 
rearing horses, and some of these animals hold in 
the mouth a loose stone ball : all indicating a 
wonderful degree of skill. 

Here we happened to witness a religious pro- 
cession entering the temple ; this comprised first, 
a band of music consisting of various kinds of 
queer native instruments ; next the elephants, im- 
mense beasts, their foreheads, ears, and trunks 
painted red, white, and yellow, and their bodies 
covered with rich trappings and large ringing 
bells ; these followed by white horses and an en- 
thusiastic crowd of worshippers. We enquired 
with interest the object of this ceremonial, and 
were informed it was the occasion of the elephant^s 
bath. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 325 

Tanjore is 3 hours by rail from Trichinopoly, 
and has a population of 52,000. Here we visited 
the palace of the Rajah, two forts, and a church, 
built by the Protestant missionary Schwartz, in 
which his remains lie buried. 

In the great Pagoda is the colossal bull 
Mundi, sacred to Siva : it is in a recumbent pos- 
ture, formed of stone which is saturated with oil, 
and is 15 feet in length and 12 in height. Within 
the court is the temple of Soubramanya, an ex- 
quisite piece of architecture ; while the corridor 
surrounding it is filled with hundreds of Linga 
shrines. 

On the way to Chillambaram — a town of 
40,000 inhabitants, and the very hot-bed of idola- 
try, we travelled with vast numbers of the natives, 
on their way to worship at the temples. On reach- 
ing our destination we experienced an adventure 
full of thrilling interest. Disappointed in not see- 
ing at the station the customary bungalow, we 
found ourselves isolated amid a curious crowd of 
non-English-speaking natives, and evening clos- 
ing in upon us. After some moments of anxiety 
we were fortunate enough to discover a converted 
heathen who by means of signs and the few 
English words he knew, conveyed to us the wel- 
come information of the residence of an English 
missionary a few miles beyond the town. Procur- 
ing for us a rough grain-cart drawn by two bul- 
locks, — the only mode of conveyance to be found, 



326 A TOUR 

he accompanied us as a guide, and we set forth 
for the house of the missionary to beg hospitaHty 
for the night. 

On our way through the town we saw the two 
temples combined in one, of Siva and Parvati, 
enclosed by a high wall : and notwithstanding the 
protestations of our guide determined to enter. 
He, for reasons best known to himself, refused to 
accompany us, but promising to meet us with the 
cart at another gateway, sent a native — who could 
not speak a word of English — as his substitute. 

In the former temple we saw the sacred image 
of the Dancing Siva, besides some fine carvings, 
and a chain cut from the solid stone connecting 
two pillars. We were in the very heart of the 
temple, examining these interesting objects when 
a crowd of natives surrounded us, gathering by 
hundreds as we moved, and pressing us on all 
sides, with threatening accents and menacing ges- 
tures. In the midst of our bewilderment we per- 
ceived that our guide had deserted us. Leading 
us on from shrine to shrine, and finally forcing us 
into a dark chamber, the priests compelled us to 
comprehend by means of the words '' gold " and 
'* three thousand," their demand for a large sum 
of money. 

Notwithstanding the exigencies of the situation, 
acquiescence in their requirements was a virtual 
impossibility as we were totally unprepared for 
such excessive extortion. 



AROUND tHE WORLD. 327 

Followed by the excited mob closing in upon 
us and blocking our way at every step we at- 
tempted to make our escape, while the gathering 
darkness, and an utter ignorance of the modes of 
egress filled us with terrible forebodings. In this 
emergency, an '' angel in disguise '' in the form of 
a small native boy to whom w^e,had previously 
shown some small act of charity, crept through 
the crowxl, and gave us an almost imperceptible 
signal which our sharpened wits readily inter- 
preted into an invitation to follow him, which we 
managed to accompHsh with much difficulty 
through devious and tortuous ways, until we 
reached our conveyance and awaiting guide; and 
set forth with all the speed of which our bullocks 
were capable, to our haven of safety and rest, 
where the missionary and his good wife gave us 
most hospitable welcome. 

Madras, the capital of the Presidency of the 
same name, is a city of 400,000 inhabitants, and 
extends a distance of 2 miles along the coast of the 
Bay of Bengal. It is the third city of importance 
in India, but its harbor is a dangerous one owing 
to the high surf; and its climate is wretched on 
account of the cyclones and typhoons which pre- 
vail from October to January. 

The main thoroughfares are Mount Road lead- 
ing to Fort St. George, and Mowbray Road which 
is a fine avenue of banyan trees. The principal 
statues of the city are the equestrian one of Sir 



328 A TOUR 

Thomas Munro, a marble one of Lord Cornwallis, 
and one of General Neil ; and near the city is the 
suburb of St. Thome — the traditional site of the 
martyrdom of the apostle St. Thomas. 

From Madras to Bombay, by rail, the trip con- 
sumes 2>^ hours, and along the route we were 
continually passing pagodas and small villages, in 
the latter of which were immense elephants and 
horses made of stone, and painted in a variety of 
colors, standing in rows before some shrine, await- 
ing the convenience of the gods. 

The route passes through the independent 
State of Hyderabad, governed by the great Nizam, 
whose capital is Hyderabad near the old capital of 
Golconda. In the southern part of this territory, 
we traversed the Kistnah Valley, where are the 
famous Partial and KoUur diamond fields, where 
the Great Mogul, the Orloff, the Koh-i-noor, the 
Pitt or Regent, and many other historical and 
magnificent gems were found. The rough stones 
yielded by these mines were formerly cut and pol- 
ished in the town of Golconda, about lOO miles 
further north, and from this circumstance the 
diamonds were popularly supposed to be produced 
at or near Golconda which is not a diamond- 
bearing district. 

Beyond the State of Hyderabad is Poonah, 
prettily situated, and a great resort for the Gov- 
ernment officials and residents of Bombay ; and 
further on we arrived at the Bor Ghat- — mean- 



AROUND THE WORLD. 329 

ing steps, — which are immense wash-outs of land 
2,000 feet deep. Here the mountains are precipi- 
tately scarped, and the railway wends its way 
around precipices and in zig-zags from the summit 
to the ravine below. 

At Lanowlee station, ponies are taken six miles 
to the celebrated Karli caves — or Buddhist tem- 
ples which date about 78 B. C. and whose interior 
walls are formed of huge statues of elephants and 
other figures cut in the solid rock. In its centre 
is the Dagoba, a dome on a circular drum sur- 
mounted by a Chattar, or umbrella, light being 
thrown upon it by a horseshoe-shaped window in 
the side of the cave. 



CHAPTER XXVHI. 

BOMBAY : SURAT : BARODA : AHMEDABAD rJEYPOOR: AM- 
BER : DELHI : AGRA : CAWNPORE : LUCKNOW. 

Bombay — fair haven, as the name signifies — is 
the capital of the Bombay Presidency. It is 
built upon a chain of islands branching out south- 
ward from the mainland ; and incloses a splendid 
harbor of 40 square miles, one of the largest in 
the world. The fort was ceded by the Portu- 
guese in 1 66 1, to Charles II., who relinquished 
it to the East India Company in 1668 for an an- 



330 A TOUR 

nual rent of ;^io. in gold. Owing to the increased 
growth of Indian cotton, and to the opening of 
the Suez Canal, it has rapidly advanced, and has 
a greater future before it than any other city in 
India, if not Asia. 

The population of Bombay is 750,000. Of 
these 400,000 are Hindus, 150,000 Moham- 
medans, 50,000 Parsees, and the remainder Jains, 
Eurasians, and Europeans. 

The variety of nationality and costume, is 
perhaps more striking here than elsewhere in 
India; crowds of coolies, or laborers, with 
their dark, shiny skins, turbaned heads and the 
strip of cloth around their loins; native women, 
graceful in figure and feature, arrayed in many 
colors — crimson, yellow, orange, green, and blue 
— and decked in jewelry; Parsees in white gar- 
ments, and dark, towering, mitre-shaped hats ; 
and Mohammedans, proud and stately ; all bust- 
ling along through the native streets beneath the 
tropical sun. 

The native town, which stretches northward 
several miles, is mostly the business quarter; and 
here are also the bazaars, temples, mosques, and 
shrines ; while the houses are painted in every 
imaginable color, and often exquisitely carved and 
ornamented. 

Between the Apollo Bunder, a quay, and 
the old fort, are the finest European buildings in 
the city, consisting of the High Court, Tower, Li- 



Around the world. 331 

brary, University, Sailors' Home, Post Office, 
and Watson's Hotel, all built of stone, brick, and 
iron, and creditable to any European city. Here 
also are erected, the white marble statue of Queen 
Victoria, and the bronze equestrian one of the 
Prince of Wales. 

On the Green of an evening, from 5 to 6 P. M. 
the band plays ; and for five miles along the 
beach, Europeans, and the rich native Baboos, 
or gentlemen, drive their fine teams with a great 
display of liveried servants. 

Malabar Hill the favorite suburban residence 
of the wealthy, is a lofty ridge, 500 feet high, 
stretching, as a separate promontory for two miles 
out to sea, in a southwesterly direction, and from it 
are obtained glorious views of the city and ocean. 

On the summit of this hill are the Towers of 
Silence — five mysterious stone receptacles for 
the Parsee dead, which are located in a garden of 
flowers. These towers, which are painted white, 
are about 100 feet high, and 150 in circumfer- 
ence ; and all around their upper edge and cover- 
ing the trees in the neighborhood, sit thousands 
of large vultures, waiting to devour the dead de- 
posited there. 

As the Parsees, — although claiming to be mon- 
otheists, worship the four elements, they will not 
contaminate earth by burial, or fire by cremation, 
consequently they give their dead as prey to the 
vultures. When a funeral takes place the mourners 



33^ A TOUR 

Stop in the garden of flowers ; the corpse is then 
silently conveyed by the bearers to the tower, and 
laid uncovered at the top of one of these stone 
receptacles ; and scarcely have they departed 
leaving their funeral garments behind, when the 
vultures swoop down upon the inanimate remains, 
and in half an hour's time not a vestige is left but 
the bones, which drop through the grating into a 
well at the bottom of the tower, upon which is a 
layer of charcoal which prevents them from 
defiling the earth. 

Another curious sight in Bombay is the Pan- 
jrapul, a hospital for diseased and decrepid an- 
imals. This has been founded, and is mainly sup- 
ported by the Jains, with whom tenderness for 
animal life is a distinguishing tenet, induced by 
their belief that life — whether it be in man, an- 
imal, or vegetable product, is identical. 

In the Panjrapul all sick, maimed or helpless 
animals are treated free of charge — from the 
mammoth elephant to the tiniest insect ; and we 
saw numbers of buffaloes, cows, monkeys, birds 
and other animals there for treatment. 

The Caves of Elephanta are on an island '6 
miles from Bombay, which we reached by a steam 
launch, A stone pathway and many steps led 
us to the famous caves which are Brahman temples 
hewn out of the solid rock. Three massive 
columns divide the entrance and support a huge 
overhanging cliff, mantled with verdure, on which 



AROUND THE WORLD. 333 

grow trees with hanging bird's nests. The cave 
is 130 feet deep and equally wide, hollowed out 
of trap-rock with huge pillars left to support the 
roof. Just within the entrance is a colossal figure 
of the Hindu trinity : Brahma, the creator, in the 
centre ; Vishnu, the preserver, on the left, and 
Siva, the destroyer, on the right,; besides various 
other images cut in the walls. 

From Bombay we took the rail directly north, 
passing through Surat, one of the first English 
settlements in India. Here there are many cot- 
ton factories, and the immense tombs of the gov- 
ernors of the English and Dutch mills. 

At Baroda, a curiously built native city with 
streets crossing one above the other, we visited 
the Gaikwar's palace, and were shown his gold 
and silver cannons — their carriages covered with 
the same material. We also inspected his collec- 
tion of wild animals, and visited the square stone 
arena, where are given the tiger and elephant 
fights with which he entertains his European 
guests with the most extraordinary magnificence. 

In Ahmedabad we went to see the Jain 
temple — a splendid structure with many spires 
and elaborate carving. The interior walls and 
the floors are of a variety of polished marbles, 
while the images in niches around the temple and 
in the centre are of the purest alabaster covered 
with gold and quantities of precious stones and 
having large pearls and diamonds for eyes. 



334 A TOUR 

As we drove through the town there were 
numbers of wild apes on the housetops, gates and 
fences ; and in the streets, going from house to 
house, begging for food which they are seldom re- 
fused, and all along the line of rail, for two days, 
we saw hundreds of these animals, many of them 
as large as a lad of 12, sitting by the roadside look- 
ing at the passing train. At noon we reached 
Mount Abu, the Mecca of the Jains ; on the sum- 
mit of which are some of their finest temples in 
India. 

Jeypoor, the capital of Rajpootana, is a walled 
city containing 150,000 inhabitants. It being the 
province of a native prince, no European or white 
man is allowed within the limits of the city with- 
out a pass from the Maharajah. Presenting a 
letter of introduction from Sir Richard Temple, 
late governor of Bombay, to the English pohtical 
agent, we received a permit from His Highness to 
visit the city, palace, and old capital Am.ber; and 
were given a special escort with staff of office. 

The streets of Jeypoor are 40 yards wide, and 
run at right angles; at the main crossings of 
which, are the market-places, with fountains, and 
temples having two stone elephants at each en- 
trance. The houses are stuccoed, painted pink, 
and ornamented with barbaric frescoing. The 
palace of the Maharajah is in the centre of the 
city, painted yellow, and occupies with its grounds 
two square miles. It is five stories high, and has 



AROUND THE WORLD. 335 

many fine apartments, some being of marble ; 
while the garden comprising 70 acres, is filled 
with fountains, and at its extremity is a lake 
where there are immense turtles and crocodiles 14 
feet in length. 

We were also shown the Maharajah's extensive 
collection of birds and wild anim,als among which 
were white pea-fowls, and the finest specimens of 
tigers in India ; several having just been caught 
in the jungle two miles distant from the palace, 
from the roof of which these animals are plainly 
visible in all their native freedom and ferocity. 

Amber, the ancient capital, is six miles from 
Jeypoor, and hither the Maharajah sent us, with 
an escort of several attendants, on one of his State 
elephants, the largest we had ever seen ; decked 
with showy trappings and richly caparisoned how- 
dah, its tusks ornamented with burnished bands. 
The mahout, a native who guided his course, sat 
on his neck ; and so perfect was his control of the 
huge beast that at a word of command he would 
kneel, in order to facilitate our mounting and dis- 
mounting ; notwithstanding which a ladder was 
necessary to enable us to ascend or descend his 
sides. In this novel manner w^e wended our way 
along the edge of the jungle where large apes 
sporting among the overhanging branches of the 
trees grinned down upon us, in such close prox- 
imity that we instinctively grasped our hats in the 
not unfounded fear of having them snatched away. 



33G A TOUR 

After passing many ancient temples and 
shrines we arrived at Amber which retains of its 
former magnificence only the ruins of its fine 
palace, which is situated on a high hill overlook- 
ing the native town, and a beautiful little lake. 

Delhi whose ancient wealth and grandeur has 
been described by Moore, in the departure of 
Lalla Rookh from her father's capital to Cash- 
mere where she went to meet her betrothed, the 
king of Bucharia, is situated on the Jumna river, 
and dates from 1400 B. C. It has been destroyed 
seven times, but its extent and magnificence can 
somewhat be imagined when one beholds its 
temples, columns, and tombs strewn thickly over 
an area of 45 square miles. It was governed in 
turn by Hindus, Mohammedans, Tartars, Af- 
ghans, and Moguls ; and its treasures rifled by 
each successive conqueror ; but many of its finest 
buildings yet stand, in a remarkable state of pre- 
servation, as monuments of its past grandeur. 

The city of to-day, whose population numbers 
155,000 was built by Shah Jehan in 1637, "^'ho in- 
herited the great wealth and genius of his grand- 
father Akbar the Great. The city wall, which is 
of red sandstone, is five miles in circumference, and 
has eight gates ; the citadel is inclosed within an- 
other wall one mile and a half in circumference, 
entered by the Delhi and Lahore gates, and com- 
prises the fort, palace and other fine buildings. 
Entering the fort by the Lahore gate — called the 



AROUND THE WORLD. 337 

king's umbrella from its splendid Gothic arch, — we 
first visited the Diwan-i-Am — or hall of public 
audience — a large apartment open at three sides, 
and supported by rows of red sandstone pillars 
formerly adorned with gilding and stucco work. 
Behind the throne is a doorway by which the 
Emperor entered from his private apartments; 
and the wall is covered with mosaic pictures in 
precious stones, of some of the most beautiful 
fruits, birds, flowers, and animals of Hindostan. 
These were executed, as was also the work in the 
palace by Austin de Bordeaux, who after defraud- 
ing several of the princes of Europe by means of 
false gems which he fabricated with great skill, 
sought refuge at the court of Shah Jehan, where 
he was in great favor with the Emperor, and made 
a large fortune. 

Next we saw the Motee Musjeed — or Pearl 
Mosque built of marble and so called from its 
pearl-like whiteness and beauty. 

The palace of Shah Jehan is a beautiful struc- 
ture of the purest marble raised on a terrace four 
feet high, with floors, walls, and supports of the 
same material inlaid with gold, silver, and precious 
stones. The top of the building is surmounted 
by four marble pavilions with gilt cupolas, and 
the ceiling was originally completely covered 
with silver filigree; but in 1759 the Mahrattas, 
under Sedasheo Bhad, after the capture of the 
city, possessed themselves of it and caused it to 



338 A TOUR 

be melted into coin — the value of the same being 
estimated at $850,000. At one end of the build- 
ing are the baths of the Shah, and those of the 
ladies of the harem, decorated in extravagant style; 
and these are connected, by a stream of water, run- 
ning through the building in a shallow trough 
cut in the marble floor, with their repose and 
sleeping apartments. These latter surpass even 
the baths in richness, and have open-work marble 
screens through which the ladies of the harem 
could look upon the outer world. Adjoining 
them is a small apartment on whose walls are 
golden representations of the sun and moon, and 
of a pair of balances before which the Emperor 
paused for prayer before entering court, and 
asked that he might deal justice in his judgments. 
The Diwan-i-Khas — or Hall of private Audi- 
ence — particularly set apart for the reception of the 
nobles, is by far the finest and most interesting 
apartment in the building. It is a quadrangle of 
moderate dimensions and constructed entirely of 
the purest of white marble, with massive pillars of 
the same material, the whole of which are richly 
ornamented with flowers of inlaid mosaic work of 
different colored stones, and with gildings ; and on 
the side looking out upon the river, there is 
a marble balustrade chastely carved in intricate 
designs of perforated work. In the centre 
of this hall once stood the famous Peacock 
throne, so called from its four peacocks, two 



AROUND THE WORLD. 339 

above and one on each side, with expanded tails, 
which with their bodies were so inlaid with sap- 
phires, rubies, emeralds, pearls, and other precious 
stones of appropriate color, as to impart a won- 
derful resemblance to the real bird. The throne 
itself was an oblong platform 6x4 feet; it stood 
on six massive feet which like the body were of 
solid gold inlaid with emeralds, rubies, and dia- 
monds. It was. surmounted by a canopy of gold, 
supported by twelve pillars all richly emblazoned 
with costly gems, and a fringe of pearls orna- 
mented its outer edge. Between the two topmost 
peacocks stood the life-size figure of a parrot, 
said to have been carved from a single emerald. 
On each side of this throne was a chattar, or 
umbrella, one of the Oriental emblems of royalty : 
they were formed of crimson velvet richly em- 
broidered and fringed, like the canopy, with 
pearls: the handles Avere eight feet in length, of 
solid gold, and studded with diamonds. The cost 
of this superb work of art has been estimated at 
$30,000,000. 

The Peacock throne with nearly all the treas- 
ure in the imperial city, was carried off by Nadir 
Shah the Persian conqueror, who in 1739 having 
defeated at Karnaul the reigning emperor, Mo- 
hammed Shah — grandson of Shah Jehan — 
marched with that sovereign, a captive in his 
train, to Delhi. The inhabitants enraged on 
beholding this, rashly attacked the Persian guard ; 



340 A TOUR 

whereupon Nadir Shah ordered a general mas- 
sacre, and caused the eyes of the dethroned 
monarch to be put out. The city has never 
recovered from the work of destruction to which 
it was then doomed. 

In one end of this famous Audience Hall, is yet 
distinctly visible in golden Persian characters, 
these words : '' if there is a paradise upon earth, 
it is this — it is this !" 

The principal mosque of Delhi is the Jumma 
Musjeed, or Friday mosque, built on a rocky 
eminence considerably elevated above the ground, 
200XI20 feet, and surmounted by 3 cupolas of 
white marble with gilt spires ; while the main 
building with lofty minarets and extensive court, 
is built of red sandstone. Here on the 12th of 
November, we witnessed the Mohurrum a great 
festival of the Mohammedan Shiah Sect, when 
they paraded gilt representations of the tomb of 
Hussien, — grand-son of Mohammed, through the 
streets, after which they buried them with great 
ceremony. 

The Kutab Minar, a fluted column 240 feet 
high, 1 10 feet in circumference at the base, and 
gradually diminishing in a series of 5 stories like 
thejoints of a telescope, to 30 feet in circumfer- 
ence at the summit, is built of stuccoed stone, and 
handsomely carved with the 99 names of the Al- 
mighty, in Arabic letters. It is supposed to have 
been built by the Hindus, and subsequently con- 



AROUND THE WORLD. 34I 

verted into a minaret by the Mohammedans. It 
is said to have been the highest cokimn standing 
alone in the world, before the erection of the 
Washington monument, and is one of the gigan- 
tic reminders of old Delhi. 

Near by, and almost adjoining the Kutab 
Minar, is Aladdin's Gate — a majestic arch, beau- 
tifully carved and built for the entrance of a pal- 
ace ; while connected with it are the remains of a 
mosque built of red sandstone from the ruins of 
eleven Hindu temples whose site was once on this 
spot. In the midst of this ruin stands the enig- 
matical iron pillar, weighing about 17 tons, and 60 
feet in length but now only 22 feet above the 
ground. It is supposed to be of Brahmanical 
origin, and legend gives it the symbolical signifi- 
cance of the strength and subsequent downfall of 
the city. 

From here we stopped at a tank filled with 
water, to witness a performance of the na- 
tives ; who jump into it, from the roofs of the 
neighboring houses, feet foremost, to a depth of 
some fifty feet, falling with the dull thud of an in- 
animate body; after which, in a state of exhaus- 
tion, they come to beg an an7ia — two and a half 
cents — from the bystander. 

We then drove to the Lat of Fyroz Shah — a 
monolith of red sandstone upon which is an in- 
scription in Pali indicating that it was erected by 
Asoka; then to the tomb of Humayun, Akbar's 



34^ A TOUR 

father, a tyrant of great cruelty and patron of 
thuggism, which is of colossal size, built of red 
sandstone, and required i6 years in its con- 
struction; and further on to the tomb of a cer- 
tain king of Delhi who was so partial to cherry 
brandy that he consumed it at the rate of a glass 
an hour, until it was the cause of his untimely 
death. 

But more affecting than all these grand tombs 
built of stone, with towering domes and hand 
somely-carved marble screens and porticos, is the 
grave of the lovely daughter of Shah Jehan, 
who remained faithful to him when his son had 
caused his imprisonment. It is simply a sodded 
mound, bearing on the headstone the following 
inscription in Arabic : *' Let no rich canopy cover 
my grave : this grass is the most appropriate cov- 
ering for the poor in spirit.'' 

From here we returned to the city of Delhi 
and drove through its chauk — or miain street, 
where are the bazaars and principal shops. It was 
here, in the late mutiny of 1857, that Captain 
Hodson, an English officer exposed to public view 
the bodies of the two sons of Behadar Shah — 
the last, and aged king of Delhi — whom, after 
their surrender, he had caused without trial, to be 
shot. 

Agra, formerly the seat of government of the 
northwest provinces, is a scattering city situated 
on the river Jumna. The fort, which is one of 



Around the world. 343 

the finest in India, is of red sandstone, with walls 
40 feet high, and comprises many fine buildings. 
It was built by Akbar the Great, who had three 
wives, a Christian, a Hindu and a Mohammedan. 
He built a church for the first, a temple for the 
second, and a mosque for the third, declaring his 
determination to be on the safe side. Within the 
fort, we visited the palace of Akbar; the public 
and private Judgment Halls; the throne of Je- 
hanjeer where this sovereign sat to witness the 
elephant and tiger fights in the arena below; the 
palace of Shah Jehan where he was imprisoned 
by his son, and the very room in which he died ; 
also the Sultana's bath-room with walls and ceil- 
ings formed of thousands of pieces of convex 
mirrors casting innumerable reflections; the Pil- 
lared Hall where the sultan and sultanas played 
hide and seek ; and the dungeons beneath it 
where the ladies of the harem, falling into dis- 
favor, were hung, and their bodies washed into 
the river through an underground passage. 

We drove across the Jumna over a bridge of 
boats, to see the tomb of It-mad-ud-Daulah — 
the prime minister to Jehanjeer. He came from 
Persia a poor man, his sole possession the ox 
upon which he rode ; and subsequently became a 
great favorite with his sovereign, who married his 
daughter, and loaded him with benefits, and 
placed this magnificent tomb over his remains. 

The Taj-Mahal, erected by Shah Jehan, as a 



344 A TOUR 

mausoleum for his favorite wife, whose title 
was Begum Muntaz Mahal, is by far the 
most beautiful structure in Agra, if not in the 
world, and might well be reckoned as one of the 
Wonders. It was commenced in 1630 and is said 
to have occupied 20,000 workmen for 17 years, 
at a cost of about $60,000,000. It is in a beauti- 
ful garden 2 miles from Agra, on the bank of the 
Jumna, rising from a double platform ; the first 
of red sandstone some 20 feet high and 1,000 
broad ; the second of marble 1 5 feet high and 309 
square, at the corners of which stand 4 marble 
minarets, 180 feet high each. In the centre of 
this platform reared high in air, stands the Taj 
w^th giant arches and clustering' domes. Its base 
is a square of 186 feet, its height is 200 feet, and 
it is built of the purest white marble with Arabic 
inscriptions traced over the entrances. On either 
side of it are mosques, the one facing Mecca de- 
signed for worship, the other serving only to 
complete the unity of appearance. Within the 
mausoleum are the remains of Shah Jehan and 
his favorite wife Taj, — the pet name of the 
Begum Muntaz — in whose honor it was named. 

One characteristic of the Tartars was their 
tomb-building propensity; and each Mogul in 
turn built a tomb for himself 

The symmetry of outline, the imposing and 
dazzling effect of the materials used, as well as 
the delicate inlaid work, and the intricate marble 



AROUND THE WORLD. 345 

carvings, render the Taj an object that must be 
seen by both dayhght and moonlight in order 
fully to realize its perfect beauty and finish. All 
parts of the Orient have contributed their treas- 
ures to the embellishment of this marvellous mau- 
soleum : Jeypoor its white marble ; the Nar- 
budda its rock-spar and yellow marble ; Charkoh 
its black marble ; China its crystal ; the Punjab its 
jasper; Bagdad its carnelian ; Thibet its tur- 
quoise ; Yemen its agate ; Ceylon its sapphires ; 
Arabia its coral ; the Bundelkund its garnets ; 
Punnah its diamonds ; Gwalior its lodestone ; 
Villate its chalcedony ; and Persia its onyx and 
amethyst. Many of the most valuable of these 
precious stones have been rifled from their set- 
tings by the Jats and Europeans ; and conse- 
quently a guard is now kept constantly on watch 
day and night. What is huge and massive is 
usually associated in the mind with what is rough 
and ponderous ; but here is the majesty of a 
giant building combined with the lightness and 
delicacy of a costly jewel-casket. 

The tomb of Akbar the Great, is 8 miles 
from Agra, near Secundra, in a court a quarter 
of a mile square, with a heavy fortress-like wall 
surrounding it. It is 30 feet square and 100 
high ; rising in terraces of pyramidal form with 
cloisters, galleries and domes, to the height of 5 
stories. The body of Akbar is interred in the 
vault beneath ; but on the extreme top, in the 



346 A TOtiR 

centre of the building, is his white marble tomb, 
with the 99 names of the Almighty beautifully in- 
scribed upon it in Arabic characters ; and at its 
head stands a marble urn upon which once was — 
placed there by his grandson Shah Jehan — the 
great gem known as the Koh-i-noor diamond, now 
the centre ornament in the crown of England. 

Cawnpore, situated on the Ganges, is a busy, 
populous town, with cotton factories, flour mills 
and leather works ; but its principal interest cen- 
tres in the monuments and commemorative spots 
which testify to the hardships and cruelty that 
prevailed during the mutiny of 1857. Of these 
is a well, which is now covered over and sur- 
mounted by the marble statue of an angel, with 
drooping wings, leaning against a cross ; her 
arms folded over her breast, and in her hands 
two palm-leaves emblematical of martyrdom and 
victory. On the pedestal is the following inscrip- 
tion : 

** Sacred to the perpetual memory of a great com- 
pany of Christian people, chiefly women and children, 
who, near this spot were cruelly massacred by the fol- 
lowers of the rebel Nana Dhoondopunt of Bithoor; 
and cast, the dying widi the dead, into the well below 
on the 15th day of July, 1857." 

A memorial church, a short distance away, 
stands in the midst of what was Wheeler's in- 
trenchment; where that general, gathering to- 



AkOUND THE WORLt). 34; 

gether the 330 women and children, surrounded 
and guarded them with 250 soldiers and 300 citi- 
zens, the balance of his army having mutinied ; 
and when at length this worn-out band, reduced 
by sickness and death, yielding to the treacherous 
promises of the Nana Sahib of safe conduct down 
the river, surrendered, they were cruelly mas- 
sacred at the Suttee Chaore — a temple now 
marking the spot — on the banks of the Ganges. 

Lucknow the capital of Oude, is a city of 
262,000 inhabitants, situated on the banks of the 
river Goomti, a tributary of the Ganges. Like 
Cawnpore it was the scene of much suffering and 
bloodshed during the great mutiny. It was in 
the Residency here that in 1857, 2,200 souls 
consisting of 1,000 European residents with their 
families sought refuge; and that 1,000 soldiers 
under the English general, Sir Henry Lawrence, 
kept a large army of Sepoys at bay for six 
months. 

The building is a large three-story house, 
with towers and thick walls, standing on an ele- 
vation in the midst of extensive grounds. We 
descended into the vast cellars where the women 
and children had found refuge ; shot and shell 
having left their traces on every side. The 
tombs of Lawrence and other brave men are 
within the grounds, bearing touching epitaphs 
commemorative of the events attending their 
deaths. The house is a ruin and a melancholy 



34^ A TOUR 

spectacle ; but Nature has mantled the spot with 
verdure, and the gardens are blooming with 
flowers. 

Lucknow has some very grand and imposing 
buildings, especially those in the fort; among 
which are, the Imaun Barra — an old palace — and 
several mosques and gates crowned with domes, 
of a very pleasing style of architecture. 

Among the most important buildings which 
we visited are the Kaisar Bagh with its large 
grounds and Turkish pavilion ; the Chattar Man- 
zie, surmounted by a gilt umbrella, — the emblem 
of ancient royalty; the Hooseinbad — or Palace 
of Light ; and the Dilkusha palace where Henry 
Havelock died. 

The Martiniere College is an immense building 
styled a second Versailles. It was built by a 
Frenchman named Martin who came out to In- 
dia a private soldier, and after having become a 
general, with a large fortune, built this edifice for 
his private residence. 

At the Elephant Stables, 3 miles from Luck- 
now, the English government keeps 100 of the 
largest of these animals, which are used on state 
occasions, or in time of war for transporting can- 
non. The obedience of these huge brutes who 
salaam, or salute, and lie prostrate at the word of 
command, is proof of their remarkable intelligence, 
and docility. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 349 



CHAPTER XXIX. 

BENARES : THE GANGES : SERAMPORE : DARJEELING : 
CALCUTTA ITS ENVIRONS. 

Benares, the sacred city of the Hindus, located 
on the west bank of the mighty Ganges, has a 
population of 208,000. It dates from 1200 B. C. 
and was frequently alluded to in early Sanscrit 
literature. What Jerusalem is to the Jew ; what 
Rome is to the Latin ; what Mecca is to the Mo- 
hammedan, Benares is to the Hindu. 

It contains 1,400 temples, over 3,000 shrines, 
300 mosques, and 25,000 Brahmans, or priests. 
Its chief source of revenue is obtained from the 
offerings of the horde of pilgrims who resort there 
daily to worship at the shrines. 

In Benares one sees what Hinduism practically 
is, idolatry of the basest description ; the worship 
of Vishnu, the preserver, and of Siva, the de- 
stroyer, being represented by numberless idols 
and symbols of the most revolting character. 
Here Brahmanism and Caste hold sway, and Hin- 
duism has acquired a stony compactness and 
solidity almost impenetrable. The sanctity of 
Benares — its temples, reservoirs, wells and 



350 A TOUR 

streams — has been famed for thousands of 
years ; and it is the aim of every good Hindu to 
visit it once annually ; and if possible, when sick, 
to be conveyed there either to seek life or to find 
death within the sacred precincts. 

In the holy Kasi, or Benares, each native 
Hindu prince owns his private palace which he 
occupies during his sojourn. The Brahmans, or 
priests, are among the richest of her citizens, 
their wealth being derived from the offerings of 
the pilgrims ; and although some of them are 
intelligent, they are usually worldly and immoral. 

Idolatry seems to have a charm for the 
masses, the persuasive teachings of their priests 
having for them a singular fascination ; and their 
zeal and earnest observance of their rites might 
well teach a lesson to those who claim the light of 
a Revealed religion. 

We traversed on foot the narrow dirty streets 
and bazaars of Benares, inspecting the brass 
wares, toys, and embroideries for which this city 
is celebrated ; and at every few steps were 
brought to a sudden halt by some sacred bull — 
these animals being permitted to wander at ran- 
dom whithersoever they please, even into houses 
and shops, demolishing stands of eatables with 
perfect impunity. But filthier by far than the 
streets, are many of the temples and shrines filled 
with live sacred animals, such as bulls, dogs, 
monkeys, serpents, doves and pigeons; and idols 



AROUND THE WORLD. 35 I 

besmeared with oil and ochre, which with the 
food offered to the latter, as well as to the more 
appreciative live stock, combine to create an al- 
most unbearable stench. Each temple, shrine, 
well, and idol of Benares, has its distinctive legend, 
which is invariably extravagant. 

The Golden Temple is dedicated to Siva, the 
presiding deity of Benares, and is considered the 
holiest of all the places in the city ; while the 
symbol of the god is a plain Linga of uncarved 
stone. 

In the Temple of Ampura, all beggars are fed 
daily The goddess Ampura is their divinity of 
love and beauty; and her charms are enhanced 
by ornaments of gold and silver. In one shrine 
of this temple is an idol representing the sun 
seated in a chariot drawn by seven horses ; in 
another is Gauri Shanker ; in another Hanoo- 
man — the monkey-god ; and in yet another Ga- 
nesh, with his elephant trunk. 

The Temple of Bhaironath enshrines a god 
who is the protector of Benares. The idol is 
of stone with a face of silver, and head encircled 
with garlands; he has four hands, and is armed 
with a stone bludgeon. Behind him is the 
image of a dog, on which the deity is sup- 
posed to ride. Before the temple sits a priest 
with a choivry or switch of peacock feathers in- 
flicting gentle punishment upon the worshippers 
who offer themselves for chastisement In this 



352 A TOUR 

temple there congregate numbers of dogs which 
are fed daily by men appointed for the purpose. 

Near by is the Temple of Sukreswar — a 
creative god ; that of Sitla, the goddess presiding 
over small-pox ; and the Temple of Naugrah 
dedicated to the planets in which every Hindu 
must inaugurate each important religious cere- 
mony. 

In the Temple of Ganesh is its god painted 
red, with three eyes, a silver head, and an ele- 
phant's trunk ; while at his feet is the figure of a 
rat on which the god is supposed to ride. 

The Trilochan Temple which is devoted to 
Siva has at its entrance a marble bull ; while the 
paintings on the wall represent hell with the river 
of death in the foreground, and figures in it en- 
deavoring to make their way to the opposite shore. 

The Temple of Kameshwar is dedicated to 
the god of wishes, whose prerogative it is to grant 
the desires of his worshippers ; and as the wants 
of mankind are legion, it is not surprising that 
Kameshwar has a host of devotees. 

The Nepaulese Temple occupies one of the 
most conspicuous places in the city, and from a 
distance presents a handsome appearance ; but 
on a closer examination, it is found to be defiled 
with carvings of an obscene character. 

At the extreme end of the city, and near the 
river's bank, is the Durga Kund — or monkey 
temple, so called from the hundreds of brown 



AROUND THE WORLD. 353 

monkeys, sacred to Durga, who inhabit the 
temple, bathe in the tank, and rear their young 
in a hollow tamarind tree near by. Here every 
Tuesday morning sacrifices of goats and buffaloes 
take place ; and the ground around is saturated 
with the blood of these animals. 

The Wells of Fate, Knowledge^ Salvation, of 
the Moon, and of Hindu mythology, are as full of 
curious legends as they are of putrid water from 
which emanate the most noisome smells. Op- 
posite the Nepaulese Temple is a Well whose 
waters are so pestilent that the effluvium pollutes 
the air around ; but notwithstanding this fact the 
sick and aged, believing in its miraculous proper- 
ties of imparting health and longevity, bathe in 
this well and even drink its waters. Lepers, the 
very sight of whom is sickening, and those suffer- 
ing from other contagious diseases, bathe in com- 
mon, an act which is calculated to shorten life 
rather than to prolong it. 

One of the oldest and most interesting houses 
in Benares is the Manmandil, the whole top of 
which is covered with huge astronomical instru- 
ments built of stone, which excite the wonder of 
all scientific men. .Here are instruments used for 
taking the sun's altitude and zenith ; for ascer- 
taining its greatest declination ; its distance at 
noon ; its ascensions ; the latitudes, and for find- 
ing the degrees of azimuth of a planet or star ; 
and here also is an equinoctial stone. 

23 



354 A TOUR 

The great sight of Benares is its river front in 
the early morning, when the rays of sunrise flood 
the city with brightness, and its inhabitants bathe 
in their sacred river, the Ganges. Seated on the 
deck of a dhighy with four men to row, we floated 
slowly along with the lazy tide, watching the 
panorama of humanity at its devotions. Men, 
women, and children of all ages were crowding 
the ghats, or steps, leading down into the water, 
performing their ablutions in the yellow tide 
as a daily act of refreshment, of purification, 
and of religion; worshipping the river, basking in 
the sun, filling vessels with the sacred water for 
purifying purposes at home ; and finally repairing 
to the Brahmans seated on the banks of the river 
under large palm-leaf umbrellas, in order to have 
the distinctive marks of their castes painted upon 
their shiny foreheads ; for which service they de- 
posited a coin in the grasping hands of the offici- 
ating priests. 

Bordering one side of the river, the temples 
and palaces rose, one above another on the steep 
bank, and several of the largest of these, having 
been undermined by the water, had partially sunk 
into the river. 

The Dasaaswameah Ghat — or steps, is one of 
the five chief points of pilgrimage in the city. It 
derives its name from dasa, ten, — aswa, a horse, 
and meah — a sacrifice ; for here, according to Hindu 
tradition, Brahma offered a sacrifice of ten horses. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 355 

On this spot have been erected ten commem- 
orative shrines, each containing an idol. Here wc 
saw several of the religious devotees called Fakirs, 
who live upon charity, and obtain a reputation for 
sanctity by abstinence, by severe penances, by 
anointing their greasy bodies and faces with 
ashes — allowing their hair to grow until the long 
shaggy locks touch the ground — and by assuming 
an upstretched position of the right arm, which is 
retained until the limb becomes immovably fixed 
in that attitude. 

At the Burning Ghat, are several slabs set up 
on end called Suttee, which mark the spots where 
widows have been burnt alive on the funeral pyre 
of their husbands ; but this custom was prohibited 
by the English government in 1829. The word 
Suttee means '' chaste " or faithful woman ; and 
these memorials are held as objects of great ven- 
eration. 

At this place most of the cremating cere- 
monies take place, and we saw seven bodies 
consumed in one day. When a Hindu is about 
to die, he is laid upon the ground to breathe his 
last ; and a few hours later, the body is placed on 
a bamboo litter with simply a covering of thin 
cloth, and borne through the streets on the shoul- 
ders of four men, chanting, to the river side. 
Arrived at the banks of the Ganges, the corpse is 
laid on a pyre of wood, and more wood piled 
over it. The nearest relative of the deceased, 



356 A TOUR 

after having his face and head shaved, and a bath 
in the river, receives from a doni — one of the 
lowest Caste — a Hghted torch which, after walk- 
ing around the pile five times, he applies to the 
wood, and within an hour or so the body is re- 
duced to ashes, and cast into the river. 

Unlike almost every other people under the 
sun, the Hindus evince no respect for their fellow- 
beings after the spirit has departed from its frail 
tenement ; but go through the last rites with a 
seeming indifference strange to behold. 

Leaving these repulsive scenes, the depression 
to which they had given rise was changed for a 
sense of the poetic and beautiful, as we saw float- 
ing past us the tiny boat with flower-encircled 
lights, freighted with the fate of the Indian maiden, 
who by the continuance of the flame tests the fi- 
delity of her lover. 

Further on we reached the Mosque of Aurung- 
Zeb, the bigot and persecutor, w^ho imprisoned 
his father Shah Jehan, murdered his brothers, and 
imposed a tax upon all who were not of the Mo- 
hammedan faith. Its minarets tower over the 
city, and from the top of one of these, we ob- 
tained a magnificent view. 

Benares is not only the centre of Hinduism, 
but also the cradle of Buddhism. After six years of 
asceticism and solitude at Gaya, a town 50 miles 
south of Benares, Buddha having experienced his 
temptation and his enlightenment under the Bo- 



AROUND THE WORLD. 357 

tree, made his way to this city, affirming: *' I am 
going to give Hght to those enshrouded in dark- 
ness ; and to open the gates of immortahty to 
men." The place where he taught, once called 
the Deer-park, now Sarnath, lies four miles north 
of Benares, and is marked by a large tope 
— a pile of brick and stone reserhbling an im- 
mense bee-hive, about 120 feet high, and 90 feet 
in diameter at the base. It is handsomely carved, 
and has eight niches around it intended as recep- 
tacles for life-size statues of Buddha, and is sup- 
posed to contain a relic of this great Reformer. 

Continuing from here by rail, we stopped at 
Serampore, which we visited to see the temple and 
great idol Juggernaut — a hideous figure with an 
immense head and big eyes. Outside of the 
temple is the car of Juggernaut, one of the largest 
in India, being 60 feet high, covered with images 
and paintings and mounted on 16 broad wheels. 
On top of this the idol Juggernaut is placed and 
drawn through the streets in their religious pro- 
cessions ; on which occasions the fanatics throw 
themselves on the ground before it, to be crushed 
beneath the wheels, notwithstanding the efforts of 
the English government to suppress this bar- 
barous custom. 

From here we took a boat to the opposite side 
of the Ganges, and visited Barrackpoor, a pretty 
suburban village, and a great resort for Europeans. 
In the centre of a large garden here, stands the 



3S8 A TOUR 

summer residence of the Viceroy of India, and in 
this section is cultivated the poppy, the opium 
from which having been extracted is shipped from 
Calcutta to China. 

Darjeeling, appropriately called '* the city 
above the clouds," is prettily located in the Him- 
alaya Mountains 8,ooo feet above the level of the 
sea. It is surrounded by the highest peaks of the 
range, 12 of them within line of vision from this 
point, each being over 20,000 feet high. Mt. 
Everest, the highest in the world, 29,002 feet ; 
Kinchinjinga, 28,156; and Chamalari, 27,200 
feet, all located in Nepaul and Thibet, stand out 
like sentinels with their snowy caps, and present 
a scene of grandeur unequalled on the globe. 
Here is seen the thickest crust of the earth's 
surface — 5^ miles; casting the eyes from the 
snowy peaks above the clouds to the great ra- 
vines below clad in rankest tropical vegetation, one 
is filled with awe at beholding these sublime con- 
trasts of nature. 

Here are seen a variety of people — the Ne- 
paulese, with intelligent and pleasing counte- 
nances, active and brave to a degree, but whose 
country Europeans can only view from a distance ; 
the Bootiers with almond-shaped eyes, high 
cheek-bones, and wearing the queue, who make 
use of a praying machine — a toy resembling a 
child's large-sized rattle in which, on yards of 
paper, their prayers are inscribed ; this they re- 



AROUND THE WORLD. 359 

volve while repeating the formula, which may be 
translated *' Oh, the Jewel on the Lotus!" — re- 
ferring to Buddha ; and again other sects who 
rarely wash themselves, but coat their faces with 
tar to preserve their sight, and as a protection from 
the cold. 

The modes of conveyance used here are palan- 
quins — a kind of box open at either side and of 
sufficient length to allow one to recline, borne 
by four coolies; and dandies — a sort of recumbent 
chair on two poles carried on the shoulders of the 
natives. 

From Darjeeling to Calcutta the distance is 
250 miles, and going thither we first took a min- 
iature narrow-guage railroad down the mountain, 
whose grade was a fall of one in every eighteen 
inches, and having many loops and reverse 
stations. The train rounded the spurs of the high 
knobs, crossing bridges over deep ravines and 
roaring torrents, passing through luxuriant tropi- 
cal vegetation, tree ferns, rhododendrons, flowering 
creepers and plantations of tea and chinchona, all 
rendering it one of the most beautiful railroad 
trips of our experience. 

At the foot of the mountain, we passed 
through ten miles of the densest jungle in India, 
infested with great numbers of wild elephants and 
tigers, and stopped at a small station where the gov- 
ernment employs men to entrap the former for mili- 
tary purposes. These animals are first driven into 



360 A TOUR 

corrals by means of decoy elephants, after which 
the latter with heavy chains held in their trunks, 
advance upon the strangers and beat them into 
submission. 

Calcutta, the capital of India, is situated on 
the Hoogly mouth of the Ganges, 100 miles from 
the Bay of Bengal, and with its suburbs, has a 
population of 795,000. Its mid-day sun is hot 
and treacherous, and the evenings and nights are 
foggy and cool, producing so unhealthy a climate 
that its deleterious effects have won for it the title 
of *' the city of pale faces." 

Old Court-house street, and Chowringhee 
Road are the principal thoroughfares, on which 
are situated the finest residences and shops ; 
while between the latter and the river, is the 
Maidan — a large common, with several fine 
statues, among which is the handsome equestrian 
one of Sir James Outram. Here between the 
hours of 5 and 6 P. M. may be seen hundreds of 
Europeans and natives driving out with from two 
to six attendants each, attired in garments more 
gaudy than cleanly ; and congregating around the 
stand in the lovely Eden garden where the band 
discourses sweet strains. 

Government House, the residence of the Vice- 
roy, is an imposing building in the centre of the 
city, painted a bright yellow, and surrounded by 
extensive grounds. In it is the Council-room, 
with the portraits of Hastings and other English 



AROUND THE WORLD. 36 1 

notables on its walls, and where the fate of thous- 
ands of lives have hung in the balance. 

The High Court, Great Eastern Hotel, and 
Post Office, are among the finest buildings in the 
city ; and near the latter was the famous Black 
Hole, when on the 19th of June, 1756, 146 Euro- 
peans were imprisoned by the Nawab and Mahratta 
cavalry, in a room 18 feet square, and 123 of the 
number smothered to death. 

In Calcutta we witnessed the opening of the 
great Exposition, under the auspices of the Vice- 
roy, Lord Ripon, and the Duke and Duchess of 
Connaught, and attended by the native princes 
of India, who had come from all parts of the Em- 
pire. The display was on an extensive scale, the 
chief point of interest centring in the Oriental 
departments; here were to be seen the thrones, 
jewels, howdahs and trappings used in state 
ceremonials, besides other valuables loaned by 
the native princes for this occasion ; the section 
devoted to Burmese exhibits being particularly 
interesting. 

Caligat which gave the name to Calcutta, is a 
native village four miles south of the city, on a 
former bed of the Ganges, amid tanks of stag- 
nant water and tropical vegetation. The legend 
runs that when the corpse of the goddess Kali, 
wife of Siva, was cut in pieces by order of the 
gods, one of her fingers fell here, and a temple 
was raised on the spot. 



362 A TOUR 

The streets near which the temple stands, are 
full of shops for the sale of charms, pictures, 
and images of idols ; and on arriving at the place 
of worship, we found sacrifices already taking 
place, and the ground saturated with blood. This 
ceremony occurs every Tuesday and Saturday 
mornings, when great numbers of goats and buf- 
faloes are killed ; these animals are held by the 
hind legs, their heads fastened in a vise and 
severed from the body, the blood being caught in 
a vessel and poured over the tongue of the idol. 

The Zoological Garden contains some fine 
specimens of animals, and is well worthy a visit. 
The Botanical Gardens, 3 miles from the city, 
cover 300 acres and combine the natural and the 
artificial in perfect harmony. 

Besides many rare specimens of trees and 
plants, the avenues are bordered with various 
species of palms ; while in the centre of the 
grounds is a Banyan tree, the largest known, 
whose hundreds of descending branches have 
taken root and cover a circumference of 900 feet, 
capable of affording shelter for 3,000 men. 

Opposite the Gardens, on the east bank of the 
river, is the palace of the ex-king of Oude who is 
confined here, a state prisoner, having been de- 
posed for attempting to poison the British agent. 
He maintains a harem of 600 women, and has a 
fine Snakery and Zoological collection. Here, as 
in many other parts of India, we saw the man- 



AROUND THE WORLD. 363 

oeuvring of pigeons which is a great dehght and 
pastime of the natives. These birds, flying in 
open air by the thousands, were made to separate 
into sections, deploy, form circles, and manoeuvre 
Hke an army of soldiers, obeying strictly the com- 
mands of a native who, standing on an eminence, 
waves a flag and shouts at the top of his voice. 

Leaving Calcutta by steamer for Rangoon, 
we sailed down the difficult Hoogly mouth of the 
Ganges ; while *' west stretched the great delta 
with its thousand mouths, its intricate net-work 
of countless channels and backwaters, and its 
almost impenetrable coast-region, covered with 
dense jungles, and still the prey of wild beasts, 
terrific cyclones and deadly exhalations. Here 
land and water still struggle for the mastery, 
while unbridled nature laughs at the feeble efforts 
of man to tame the jarring elements." 



CHAPTER XXX. 

RANGOON : MOULMEIN : MERGUIN ARCHIPELAGO : PE- 
NANG: MALACCA: SINGAPORE. 

Rangoon in British Burmah, located on the Ir- 
rawaddy river, 28 miles from its mouth, is sur- 
rounded by low paddy fields from which is pro- 
duced large quantities of rice, shipped to all parts 



364 A TOUR 

of the world. This town has a population of 
60,000, composed of Europeans, Chinese, and 
Burmese, the latter being of light yellow com- 
plexion,^ slight in size, quiet in manner, dressing 
neatly, and given to wearing flowers in their hair. 

In the centre of the town rises a terraced hill 
from 250 to 300 feet high, surrounded by a moat 
that can be crossed only by drawbridges, and 
beyond this is a lake. On top of this hill is the 
Golden Pagoda, rising to a height of 300 feet, 
which is the tallest and one of the most remark- 
able in the Buddhist world, and is visible 7 miles 
off before reaching Rangoon ; its gilded spire 
which towers up far above the dark foliage shin- 
ing in the bright sunlight like a fiery meteor. It 
is shaped like a bell, and surmounted by a gilded 
Jiitee or umbrella, from the edge of which hang 
hundreds of small bells which are rung by the 
breeze. At the base of the Pagoda are numbers 
of small temples and shrines, beautifully carved 
and gilded and adorned with colored glass, con- 
taining colossal figures in brass and marble of 
Buddha, in both sitting and reclining postures ; 
while the entrances are guarded by stone images 
of elephants, dogs, and other animals, some of 
which are 60 feet in height. 

Above Rangoon 200 miles, on the Irrawaddy, 
is Mandalay, the capital of Burmah, where is kept 
a sacred white elephant which ranks next to 
royalty. This animal has a palace of its own, a 



AROUND THE WORLD. 365 

personal chamberlain and 30 courtiers ; besides 4 
golden umbrellas, — emblem of royalty, — and 
large real and landed estates. 

Moulmein which is near the mouth of the 
Salwin river, and on the Gulf of Martaban, 
is surrounded by hilly islands ; the town itself 
amounts to little, but from the- base of its 
principal pagoda, — similar to the one described 
in Rangoon, standing on a hill 300 feet high, is 
one of the most beautiful and expansive views of 
numbers of islands and knobs, the summits of 
which are crowned with Buddhist shrines. 

A most interesting sight to us in Moulmein was 
that of from 60 to 70 immense elephants at work 
in the lumber yards and saw-mills carrying huge 
logs from the river, adjusting them properly 
under the saw to be cut ; afterwards carrying the 
long timbers well balanced with their tusks and 
trunks, and piling them together at a distance 
beyond, using both head and feet to arrange 
them in exact uniformity ; every action betoken- 
ing their wonderful brute intelligence. 

From here, sailing along the coast of British 
Burmah, we passed through the Merguin archi- 
pelago, many of whose islands not only abound 
in rich tin mines, but have rock caves in which 
are found the bird-nests that furnish the delicate 
and expensive soup so much prized by the Chi- 
nese. 

At Penang a town of 50,000 inhabitants situ- 



366 A TOUR 

ated on an island of the same name, off the coast 
of Lower Siam, we went ashore and spent the 
day visiting its bazaars, and driving two miles 
beyond the town to a lovely cascade nestled among 
the hills. 

Two days later, we anchored at Malacca, a 
small town of no special importance, except as a 
stopping place for steamers on the Malacca coast ; 
and the following day we steamed into Singapore 
harbor at the extreme south of the Malay Penin- 
sula. 

Singapore on an island at the south of Mal- 
acca, and only one degree from the Equator, is the 
capital of the English Strait Settlements. It has a 
population of 56,000, and abounds in beautiful gar- 
dens of tropical flowers and plants ; and notwith- 
standing its proximity to the Equator, its sea- 
breeze renders it more desirable for a residence 
than other places further north. Here we re- 
mained several days to pass a warm New Year's, 
and to witness the out-door sports participated 
in by both the native and European population. 
From its fort, crowning the summit of a high hill, 
is obtained a magnificent view of the beautiful 
miniature harbor and adjacent islands. 

On this peninsula, but more particularly in 
Siam, is found the white elephant which is more 
of a dirty pink color than white, a phenomenon 
supposed to be caused by disease — a species of 
leprosy ; besides these, the rhinoceros, hippopota- 



AROUND THE WORLD. 367 

mus and other wild animals abound ; here also 
are seen birds of brilliant plumage and butterflies 
of gorgeous hues and unusual size, while in the 
forests are teak, eaglewood, gum-trees, gutta- 
percha, bamboo, dye-woods, cardamom, vanilla, 
and all the spices of a tropical region. 



CHAPTER XXXI. 

SAIGON : CHINA SEA : CANTON : HONG-KONG : STRAITS 
OF FORMOSA : YELLOW SEA. 

Taking the French steamer from Singapore, a 
four days' sail brought us to Saigon, the French 
settlement in Cochin China, where our vessel re- 
mained two days unloading arms and provisions 
for the army in preparation for the threatened 
war in Tonquin between France and China. 

Saigon located 40 miles from the mouth of 
the Saigon river, is a place of 90,000 inhabitants. 
It is in the midst of low rice-fields, where both 
heat and mosquitoes are almost intolerable, and is 
surrounded by several native villages of consider- 
able size. 

Tonquin, though a part of Anam, is under the 
protection of China; and its occupation by the 
French will not only give them possession of its 



368 A TOUR 

mines, but will enable them to penetrate into the 
interior of China. 

Five days continuous travel over the danger- 
ous China Sea, and along the coast of Anam, 
brought us to Hong-Kong, or Victoria, where we 
immediately took advantage of the night boat 
going up the Pearl River to Canton. The steamer, 
a small one, was manned by English officers, and 
the cabin was provided with fire-arms to be used 
in case of an uprising or attack from the Chinese. 
This occurrence is not an unusual thing, owing to 
the hatred of the natives to foreigners occasioned 
by difficulties with the English, which incited 
them to burn the European quarter, destroy mis- 
sion churches, and threaten the lives of strangers 
who enter the city walls ; a sentiment which is 
greatly aggravated by the present war in Ton- 
quin. 

Arriving at Canton early in the morning, we 
immediately sent for Ah Cum, a Chinese guide, 
to conduct us through the city : and procuring 
chairs, borne each on the shoulders of China- 
men, — the usual mode of conveyance, we set 
forth single file through the narrow streets on a 
tour of inspection. 

Canton is the pride of China from its being 
the largest, best preserved, and most flourishing 
city of the Empire. It is situated on the Pearl 
river, 90 miles from Hong-Kong, and has a pop- 
ulation of 1,300,000 — 60,000 of whom live in 



AROUND THE WORLD. 369 

boats on the river. The city is surrounded by 
walls 20 feet thick and 40 feet high, entered by 
18 gates, while a large portion of it extends even 
beyond the walls. The interior of the city is di- 
vided into districts which are separated by gates 
that can be closed at an instant's warning in case 
of trouble. 

We first visited that portion of Canton built on 
the island of Sha-Mien, where reside the consuls 
and foreign population ; then crossed to the native 
city and passed through its crowded, narrow 
streets, which are from 4 to 8 feet in width, and 
often covered over above ; these present a 
strange but rather picturesque appearance, from 
the array of board signs, ten feet in length, 
painted in characters — in gold, black, and red — 
indicative of the name and occupation of the in- 
mate or proprietor; they are hung perpendicu- 
larly and fastened only by a hook at the top, 
which in windy weather must render pedestrianism 
somewhat dangerous. While threading our way 
through these winding streets, we were followed 
by large crowds of excited Chinese who, by 
their threatening gestures and language, showed 
diat we were not at all welcome in their midst, 
and decided us to make our tour of inspection a 
hasty one, as at each halt we made on quitting 
our chairs they pressed upon us more closely 
and in larger numbers than we found agreeable. 
The shops, bordering either side of the way, are 

24 



370 A TOUR 

small and entirely open at the front, often dis- 
playing handsome goods and a variety of manu- 
factures. Here we saw the workers in Jade 
stone, tortoise-shell, mother-of-pearl, wood, glass, 
silver and ivory. We also saw the feathers of the 
kingfisher set into jewelry in imitation of enamel ; 
paintings on rice paper, embroideries in silk ; 
opium dens, restaurants in which dog's, rat's and 
cat's meat is sold, and the establishments peculiar 
to that edible, in which we procured the gelatine 
from which "the bird's nest soup is made. This 
delicacy, in its natural state, is suggestively repul- 
sive ; but after undergoing certain processes of 
cleansing and clarifying, assumes more inviting 
appearance, and is sold at the rate of $io per lb. 

We next visited the Temple of Longevity ; 
the Flowery Pagoda, 9 stories high ; the Temple 
of 500 Buddhas, filled with as many gilt images 
of Buddha and his followers ; the Temple of the 
Five Genii, where in front of each image was a 
stone, said to be the remains of a ram on which 
the spirit rode to the city ; and the Temple of 
Confucius, which the Emperor of China visits 
once annually. 

In the older portion of Canton is the palace 
of the Tartar General, around which were native 
sentinels bearing primitive-looking shields made 
of painted straw : here also, is the Examination 
Hall with its thousands of stalls or small rooms 
for students ; and the Prison, where we saw num- 



AROUND THE WORLD. 37 1 

bers of men with cassques — a large square wooden 
yoke fastened around their necks, permitting of 
no possibiHty of rest to the wearer ; some loaded 
down with heavy chains, by means of which the 
body was held in unnatural positions ; and others 
undergoing various torturing punishments. 

In the Execution ground, where on an average 
365 criminals are despatched yearly, we saw 
several barrels full of human heads lately severed 
from the body, and 3 crosses used in crucifying. 

Taking a boat we crossed the river to the 
island of Ho-Nan, another portion of the city, to 
see its temple, where are kept sacred pigs ; 
to visit the tea-firing and ginger-preserving es- 
tablishments ; and the Flowery boats, whose in- 
teriors are finished in marble, and are used exclus- 
ively for pleasure parties. 

On the delta of the Pearl or Canton river 
250,000 people are said to pass their entire lives 
on the water. The Sampan, a small boat which 
serves as their floating home, is fitted up with 
shrines and a few household articles, and it is a 
common occurrence to see women, with infants 
strapped to their backs, row^ing them. As soon as 
a male child is born, a life preserver, in the form 
of a gourd, is fastened around its neck, as a pre- 
caution in case of its falling into the water ; but 
with a girl no such measure is taken, as the life 
of female infants is held of little or no value. As 
soon as a child can walk it is put to the helm or 



372 

oar, while the mother manages the sails, which are 
made of matting. The Chinese fishermen are 
probably the most venturesome in the world, and 
are often seen in small boats 300 miles out at sea, 
wearing in bad weather strange-looking cloaks 
made of rice-straw and cocoanut-fibre, with straw 
hats the size of umbrellas. Their boats, both 
large and small, invariably have two big eyes 
painted on the prow, and upon being interrogated 
upon the significance of this, they make answer: 
'^ No got eye, how can see ?" 

The Chinese as a nation, though dirty and 
superstitious, are industrious and apt; having for 
thousands of years known many devices which 
foreigners penetrating the country have appropri- 
ated and introduced at home as original inven- 
tions. The upper classes are reserved and observ- 
ing; the height of a Chinaman's ambition being 
to possess a tiny-footed wife. While the women 
are rarely permitted on the streets, we had the 
opportunity of seeing several whose feet measured 
about 4 inches in length; but the standard of 
perfection we were told is 2^ inches. 

The density of the Chinese population ren- 
ders them conservative, and opposed to improve- 
ments of any kind that might be substituted for 
manual labor; and their history shows one 
straight unbroken line of a nation unparalleled in 
many respects by any other. Wheresoever a 
Chinaman may die his bones are in course of time 



AkOtJND THE WORLD. 373 

takeii to China for final interment ; and their 
opposition to having a hmb amputated, even in 
the worst state of fracture, is that a cripple is un- 
able to make a living, and paupers are not 
tolerated among them. 

The Chinese religion partakes largely of 
idolatry ; the Dragon and the Tiger figuring ex- 
tensively in their mythological legends. Though 
Buddhism constitutes a large part of their religion, 
ancestral worship is probably more general ; one 
of the rites of which consists in sending paper 
clothes, money, and written prayers to their fore- 
fathers through the medium of fire and ascending 
smoke. This latter religion, the most ancient in 
China, was revised and elevated by Confucius 525 
B. C, whose teachings of duty and morality, in 
public as in private life, from the Emperor to the 
serf, have endeared him to the people, and whose 
laws, among which is the Golden Rule : *' Do 
unto others as you would they should do unto 
you," have come down to us as the essence of 
honor and of happiness, and have been incorpor- 
ated into the Christian religion. 

Hong-Kong, the most eastern of the British 
possessions, with a mixed population of 250,000, 
composed of Europeans, Americans, Chinese, 
Hindus, Burmese, Malays, and Polynesians, is 
situated on an island at the mouth of the Pearl 
river. The city is built at the base of a high hill 
on which are many beautiful residences with 



374 A Totju 

shady and winding walks, affording fine views of 
the large harbor. Hong-Kong unfortunately lies 
within the limits of the cyclones, during one of 
which, in 1874, 1,000 houses were demolished, 
hundreds of vessels wrecked, and vast numbers 
of lives lost. Here we passed several days, visit- 
ing its public gardens, witnessing the drill of the 
English military, and, by means of chairs, borne 
by four coolies each, ascended the Peak to the 
Flag-staff point to obtain a view of the surround- 
ing landscape. 

On leaving Hong-Kong we were accompanied 
by our Consul, Col. Mosby, in his private boat 
flying the U. S. flag, as far as our steamer, the 
''Takachio," of the Mitsu Bishi line, and after a five 
days' sail along the coast of China, through the 
Strait of Formosa and the Yellow Sea we reached 
Japan, and anchored in the beautiful harbor of 
Nagasaki. 



CHAPTER XXXH. 

NAGASAKI : INLAND SEA : KOBjfe : HIOGO I OTSU : LAKE 
BIWAKO : KIOTO : OSAKA : YEDDO : KAMAKURA : 
YOKOHAMA, 

Nagasaki, the extreme southwestern Treaty- 
port of Japan, is a place of 30,000 inhabitants : it 
occupies a commanding position at the head of a 



AkOUND THE WORLD. 375 

romantic inlet which forms a magnificent land- 
locked harbor; and the houses built on the side 
of a hill, rising like an amphitheatre, combine to 
render it one of the most beautiful places of the 
Empire. 

At the entrance of the harbor is the rocky 
island of Papenberg, from whose summit thou- 
sands of Christian martyrs were hurled into the 
sea at the close of the i6th century. A portion 
of the city is built on the artificial island of De- 
shima, where the Dutch resided, and monopolized 
the trade of Japan for 200 years. 

Leaving Nagasaki our steamer passed through 
the narrow strait of Shimonoseki, and into 
the Inland Sea of Japan. This sea whose 3,000 
islands of every conceivable size and form, many 
of which are crowned with a shrine, dot the surface 
of the waters, presents a scene of rare beauty, and 
has justly w^on the reputation of affording the 
most delightful sea-voyage in the world. 

At Kobe which is the foreign port of the 
adjacent city of Hiogo, we passed the day riding 
in Jinrikislias — a small two- wheeled conveyance 
drawn by a native — seeing both towns and visiting 
the bazaars. Here our consul procured for us 
special passports to visit Osaka, Kioto, Otsu, and 
other places in the interior, beyond the Treaty 
limits. 

Starting early in the morning we went the 
entire length of the railroad to Otsu, which is 



3/6 A TOUR 

situated on Lake Biwako. This lake is the largest 
in Japan, being 50 miles in length, and 20 in 
breadth, inclosed by hills on every side. 

In this section is raised the finest tea in the 
Empire ; almost exclusively used by the Mikado, 
who sends a detachment of soldiers yearly to 
guard it en route to his capital. 

While camphor and sulphur form some of the 
exports of the country, tea is its principal source 
of revenue. The shrub from which it is derived 
grows about 3 feet high, having a small smooth 
leaf, and is cultivated in small patches, by the 
natives. 

The Japanese manufacture of porcelain ware, 
and their work in wood, ivory, mother of pearl 
and bronze, are of great delicacy and finish, and 
probably excel those of every other country. 

Kioto, called the City of Temples, was the 
ancient religious capital of Japan, and contains 
over 100 Shinto, and 900 Buddhist temples, be- 
sides numbers of shrines, tombs and palaces. 
The city, which has a population of 300,000, 
covers a large area of ground, and while the tem- 
ples and tea-houses or restaurants are generally 
built on the hill-side, the city is on the low 
ground, and extends along the banks of the river 
Yodo. 

The houses are, as a rule, from one to one and 
a half stories high, and are built of light wood or 
bamboo, with thin paper walls which keep out 



. AROUND THE WORLD. 377 

neither cold nor heat, and are generally of such 
transparent texture, that by candle-light the 
movements of the occupants are distinctly visible 
from the outside. The walls and partitions are 
nothing more than sliding screens of paper, which 
afford but slight shelter from the wind; and strict 
privacy is out of the question as an intruder may 
enter from any quarter. 

At night the streets present a singular appear- 
ance, each house being lighted by a square paper 
lantern bearing the number of the house, and the 
names of the occupants. Every individual, after 
dark, is compelled to carry a paper lantern in his 
hand or attached to his Jinrikisha, and these often 
igniting, with the frail combustible materials of the 
buildings, cause frequent conflagrations. The 
winters in Japan are severe, and the natives have 
a cold and pinched appearance, braziers being the 
only means by which they warm themselves. 

We visited the Temple of Gion, with its red- 
painted gates, on each side of which were sentinel 
figures with terrifying expression ; and the 
Chionin Temple, probably the most imposing, 
with tier upon tier of stone steps leading up to it. 
At the uppermost shrine stands the old Kioto 
bell, and surrounding it are the tombs of the 
Shoguns, or former military rulers of the country. 
The Temple of Kurodani, with its terraced ceme- 
tery of curious tomb's of bronze and stone, was a 
sight well worth a visit. The Temple of Sanjus- 



378 A TOUR 

angendo — or 33,333 idols, — now contains, how- 
ever, about 1,500 life-size wooden-gilt images, 
and in a shrine to the left is the wooden figure of 
Dai-Butsu, or Great Buddha, 60 feet in height, 
and seated on the lotus flower; a former one of 
bronze having been melted down and coined into 
money. The Temple of Noshi Honganji belongs 
to the Monto sect, and is considered the largest 
in Japan ; it is adorned with gilded panels, paint- 
ings, and carved wood. At the Kitano Temple 
we saw numbers of people, young and old, racing 
madly around the building; a hundred rounds 
being their allotted penance imposed by the 
priest, who presented them at each circuit with a 
bamboo stick as evidence of the accomplishment 
of their duty. The Minizuka is a monument of 
stone built over the ears and noses of the enemy 
killed by the Japanese in the Corean war. The 
Golden Temple, in the garden of which is a large 
cedar tree trained to resemble a full-rigged ship, 
and the Imperial Palace, are other objects of 
interest in Kioto. 

At dusk we visited several tea-houses to test 
the native beverage and to witness the singing 
and dancing of the Japanese girls; and at night 
went to the Bazaar quarter, where the shops were 
brilliantly illuminated, and various kinds of amuse- 
ments in progress. 

In one theatre we witnessed the cleverest of 
acrobatic performances. In a concert hall a girl- 



AROUND THE WORLD. 379 

performer was seated on a circular, revolving plat- 
form, and as her song ended, a sudden rotation 
of the section she occupied removed her from 
view, and substituted another in her place. 
Occasionally as the performance progressed the 
appreciation of one or other among the audience 
was manifested by the throwing of a handkerchief 
or scarf to the favorite singer, who responded by 
descending into the auditorium and spending a 
few moments in conversation with her admirer. 

At the Drama theatre the stage not only 
occupied one end of the building, but extended 
along the sides of the walls. Here we also wit- 
nessed some curious native customs. In lieu of 
our modern calcium lights, a supernumerary held 
a long pole at the end of which was a 
candle serving to light up the hideous facial ex- 
pression of the actor ; in place of our elegantly 
appointed stage, the performer was followed about 
by a man carrying a low stool ready for use ; in- 
stead of the shifting of scenes, a change was 
indicated by the striking together of two wooden 
blocks ; and when in tragedy, the hero of a piece 
died, a black cloth was held before him while he 
rose and left the stage, his nether extremities 
being plainly visible below it. The orchestra was 
composed of men playing on native instruments, 
while others chanted with great emphasis the 
argument of the play. The audience occupied 
cushions on the floor, which was divided oft' by 



380 A TOUR 

low partitions, with small braziers before them. 
The Japanese play begins in the morning and 
lasts until the midnight following ; the price of 
admission being only from 5 to lo cents. 

Osaka, which has a population of 280,000, 
and next to Yeddo, the largest city of the Em- 
pire, is called the Queen City, or Venice of the 
East, from its 3,500 bridges, and the manner in 
which it is intersected by canals. 

On the Ajikawa riv^er, which flows through 
the centre of the city, is located its strong Castle 
surrounded by walls and moats, and erected in 
1538 by the famous Shogun Tai-Ko-Sama. 

Returning from here by the same route to 
Kobe we resumed the steamer for a trip of 36 
hours' duration to Yokohama, and from thence 
by rail to Yeddo. 

Tokio, or Yeddo, the present capital of Japan 
and the residence of the Mikado or Emperor, is 
situated on the Todagawa or Ogava River, and 
covers an area of 36 square miles, with a popula- 
tion of 600,000 inhabitants. Its general appear- 
ance is that of other Japanese cities, with the ex- 
ception of one or two streets on which are 
modern-built houses and horse-cars, showing the 
inroad of European civilization, which has been in- 
troduced since this city has become a Treaty-port. 
The Castle occupies a commanding position on 
a hill, and has 3 massive walls, one beyond the 
other, with a moat filled with water outside of 



AROUND THE WORLD. 38 1 

each. Within the inclosure is the Fukiage, or 
Imperial garden, which covers several acres; and 
here stood the Imperial palace, destroyed in 1855 
by a conflagration, which burnt 5,000 houses in 
Yeddo. From this point w^e had the best view of 
the city, stretching with its suburban towns and 
numerous temples far and wide. ' 

We next visited a palace of one of the Daimios, 
which the present Mikado occupies until the re- 
building of the Imperial residence ; and the 
ancient temple of Imanuon one of the most vene- 
rated and frequented in Japan. On either side of 
its entrance were two large idols, before which 
were hung numbers of sandals, the offerings of 
those whose diseased feet had been miraculously 
cured ; while clinging to their faces and bodies 
were numberless spit-balls which were nothing 
less than written prayers thrown at the idol ; the 
superstitious belief being that if they adhered, 
their prayers were accepted, but if otherwise, 
that they were rejected. Within the temple is a 
wooden idol w^hose features are worn smooth by 
the manipulations of the devotees, who believing 
in its curative powers, touch first the seat of their 
own affliction and then the corresponding portion 
of the idol. Surrounding the temple are various 
shows, which give it more the appearance of a 
place of amusement than of worship, and a garden 
filled with plants trained in the form of men and 
animals, a peculiarity of Japanese horticulture. 



382 A TOUR 

At Yueno, a suburban town of Yeddo, is a 
park overlooking the lake, containing a bronze 
statue of Buddha; and here are buried the five 
wives of the Shoguns, in tombs richly ornamented 
in lacquer and wood carvings, and surrounded by 
stone lanterns. 

In the Zoological Gardens and Museums near 
by are specimens of animals and of Japanese art ; 
and birds of fine plumage, among the most won- 
derful of which are cocks, of the game species, 
with tail feathers measuring 30 feet in length. 

Surrounding the Senga Kuyi, or Hill Spring 
temple, is the celebrated cemetery where are 
buried the 47 Ronins whose devotion and patriot- 
ism form a prominent part of Japanese history. 

The temples and tombs of Shiba, with prob- 
ably the exception of those at Nikko, are con- 
sidered the finest in Japan ; and though small in 
size, are remarkable for their richness and fine 
carving. These temples which are entirely of 
wood, have highly polished black lacquered floors, 
with walls and shrines of the same material in 
gold and red ; the ceilings are in arabesques of 
remarkable beauty ; and the wood carvings of 
birds and animals are truly wonderful. Outside 
of, and surrounding each temple, are numbers of 
stone and bronze lanterns 5 feet in height, which 
are conspicuous adjuncts of the Japanese form of 
worship. 

Returning to Yokohama, we took Jinrikishas 



AROUND THE WORLD. 383 

drawn by two natives each, in tandem style, and 
travelled 15 miles into the country, going at the 
rate of 5 miles an hour, passing through small 
villages and rice-fields, with Mount Fujiyama, 
the sacred landmark of Japan towering before us, 
to the town of Kamakura, which was the capital 
of Japan in the 12th century. Near this village, 
among the trees, is the colossal bronze statue of 
Dia-Butsu, or Great Buddha ; this figure is over 
100 feet in height, represented, as usual, seated 
upon a lotus flower, and within it is a shrine. 
Tourists ascend it from the outside by means of a 
ladder; the thumb alone being of sufficient size 
to offer a convenient seat. This statue was 
cast over 600 years ago, and yet stands as a mon- 
ument of the past. 

Returning by the same route and conveyance 
to Yokohama we passed several days in the latter 
city making purchases of old Satsuma china, and 
wooden panels with figures of mother-of-pearl 
and ivory ; and at night visited the tea-houses 
which are its principal attractions. 

Much has been said of the beauty of Japan, 
of the elegance of its temples and of the polite- 
ness of the people Although they have but 
little to learn of agricultural science, the land 
showing evidences of a high degree of cultivation, 
and while here and there one sees pretty bits of 
scenery, Japan does not compare on the whole 
with many other countries in point of landscape. 



384 A TOUR 

The religion which was almost entirely Buddhist 
is rapidly merging into Shinto — the religion of 
the court, and the temples although rich in wood- 
carving and polished lacquer are small in dimen- 
sions, and not as grand and imposing as those of 
India and British Burmah. The rich and pic- 
turesque native costume is rapidly changing into 
that of the European ; which the Japanese adopt, 
together with an imitation of foreign manners, 
and often with ludicrous effect ; while the carry- 
ing of two swords — a long one for defense, and 
a short one for hari-kari^ or self-disembowel- 
ment — has become almost obsolete. 

In the time of the Daimios, or feudal lords, 
a title which now no longer exists, the Japanese 
were exceedingly polite and obsequious, the lower 
grades prostrating themselves when addressing a 
superior, and serving them on bended knee ; but 
the innovations introduced with the advent of the 
foreign element have to some extent modified 
the distinctions of rank ; and the lower classes 
have, in the reaction, become indifferent and self- 
assertive. 

Leaving Yokohama by the Steamship Oceanic, 
of the Occidental and Oriental line, we were 17 
days crossing the Pacific Ocean, a distance of 
4,600 miles to San Francisco. 

The most notable occurrence of the voyage 
was the crossing of the line, or 180"^ parallel of 
longitude from Greenwich, from which our steamer 



-AROUND THE WORLD. 385 

reckoned ; but as we had been travelling from 
west to east, we had gained about 24 hours, and 
in order to have the day of the week and month 
correspond to that of San Francisco, were com- 
pelled to insert an extra day; thus giving us two 
Sundays in succession, both dating February loth, 
1884. 



CHAPTER XXXIII. 

SAN FRANCISCO: NAPA VALLEY: PETRIFIED FOREST! 
GEYSERS : SANTA CRUZ : MONTEREY : SANTA BAR- 
BARA : LOS ANGELES : MARIPOSA BIG TREES : YOSEM- 
ITE VALLEY : CALAVERAS BIG TREES : SACRAMENTO : 
VIRGINIA CITY : LAKE TAHOE : PUGET SOUND : 
PORTLAND : COLUMBIA RIVER : YELLOWSTONE PARK : 
SALT LAKE CITY : MT. OF TH£ HOLY CROSS : PIKE's 
PEAK : DENVER : GREENBRIAR WHITE SULPHUR 
springs: LEXINGTON: NATURAL BRIDGE: LURAY : 
CHARLESTOWN : HARPERS FERRY. 

San Francisco, the extreme western city of 
the United States of America, and the most im- 
portant place on the Pacific coast, has a popula- 
tion of 250,000 inhabitants. It is situated on the 
end of a narrow peninsula six miles wide, one 
side of which is washed by the Pacific Ocean, 
and the other by the Bay of San Francisco, one 
of the finest harbors in the world, where the 



386 A TOUR 

combined fleets of the globe might ride at anchor 
in safety and with abundance of room. 

The Golden Gate, which is the only entrance 
for vessels to pass into this harbor, is a narrow 
strait of deep water one mile in width, and the 
forts on either side so completely command it 
that the entrance of a ship could readily be pre- 
vented. The narrowness of this passage, cut 
through high hills, and the great depth of water, 
give it an artificial appearance, and it is supposed 
by many to have been caused by earthquakes, 
which are of frequent occurrence in this section. 

The city is built on a number of sand hills, 
many of its streets being so steep that it is im- 
possible to drive up the ascent with horses ; but 
its system of surface railroads, propelled by cable 
or wire ropes laid underground, is not only very 
general but complete in every detail, ascending 
and descending the steepest grades with rapidity 
and safety. 

San Francisco is said to be one of the 
wealthiest cities in the world in proportion to its 
population and age, having been incorporated in 
1850. Those who have been successful on 
this coast, whether in gold or silver mines, rail- 
roads or real estate, have as a general thing, 
located here, and built palatial residences, many 
of which have cost millions of dollars; while its 
public buildings, theatres, and hotels compare 
favorably with those of any on the globe. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 387 

The main artery and business thoroughfare of 
the city is Market street, along which are located 
the principal stores and public buildings, includ- 
ing the Palace Hotel, the largest caravansary in 
the world, accommodating over 2,000 guests ; the 
Baldwin Hotel, comprising the prettiest theatre in 
the city ; and the Odd Fellows' and City Halls, 
besides many other imposing structures. 

Driving through this broad and busy thor- 
oughfare, we stopped at Woodward's Gardens, 
the finest public resort of the kind on this coast, 
comprising within its beautiful grounds statuary, 
miniature lakes, and tropical plants ; while its art 
gallery, conservatories, museums, aquarium, 
sealery, aviary, and zoological collections are as 
complete in detail as any on this continent. 

Continuing from here to the Golden Gate 
Park with its magnificent conservatory, we drove 
through its broad avenues, thronged with stylish 
equipages, to the beach, where from the Cliff 
House verandah we were entertained watching 
the sea-lions upon the adjacent rocks, some lying 
full length sunning their huge proportions, others 
gambolling in the water and uttering sounds 
resembling the barking of dogs. 

In the centre of the city is the Chinese quar- 
ter, where crowded into four squares are some 
40,000 Celestials ; and in visiting its Joss-houses, 
theatres, and opium-dens, one gets a good idea 
of the habits and customs of this race of people. 



388 A TOUR 

The city is healthy, owing to the strong 
southerly winds ; and although the summer fogs 
are objectionable, the climate is so equable that a 
light over-coat is comfortable the year round. 

The suburban towns of Oakland, Alameda, 
Saucelito, and San Rafael are on the opposite 
side of the bay, connected with San Francisco 
by ferry, and contain many handsome resi- 
dences. 

Taking boat and rail a distance of lOO miles 
north, and passing through the beautiful and pro- 
ductive Napa Valley, where are located the Soda, 
and White Sulphur Springs, we stopped at Calis- 
toga, and drove 5 miles to the Petrified Forest, 
in which are some 100 prostrate petrified trees; 
then staging for several hours over mountains and 
through romantic ravines, we arrived at the 
Devil's Canon, where are located the Geyser 
Springs. These wonders of nature in the midst 
of a ravine, consist of a series of boiling and cold 
springs of black, yellow, white, and red water ; 
some of which bubble up and send forth steam, 
hot water and gravel high in the air. 

The favorite and most accessible sea-side 
resorts are Santa Cruz and Monterey ; the 
former having magnificent surf-bathing, while the 
latter has an extensive and delightful hotel called 
the Del Monte, situated in the midst of a large 
park, containing a thick growth of cedars and 
tropical plants and flowers, with artificial lakes 



AROUND THE WORLD. 389 

and fountains. Here are to be found entertain- 
ments of every conceivable variety — lawn-tennis, 
croquet, bowling, boating, and driving — the most 
popular road being a twelve-mile drive that inter- 
sects the forest and skirts the coast, affording 
magnificent views of the ocean. One of the 
principal attractions of Del Monte is the four im- 
mense swimming-tanks inclosed under a glass 
roof, and filled with salt water heated at different 
temperatures to accommodate all ages and both 
sexes. 

Leaving Monterey by steamer we followed 
the coast a distance of 275 miles south to Santa 
Barbara, a town of 6,000 inhabitants, lying in a 
sheltered nook, shut in by high mountain ranges, 
and enjoying a dry and mild climate. Its popu- 
lation is largely composed of people from the 
Eastern States seeking health and a warm climate, 
and the place has a select and refined society. 

Continuing our journey by steamer 75 miles 
further south we arrived at Los Angeles, or '' city 
of Angels," a prosperous and flourishing town, 
and whose suburban places of resort such as Santa 
Monica, Pasadena, and Sierra Madre Villa located 
among the vineyards, orange, lemon and olive 
groves, which thrive luxuriantly in this section, 
render a winter sojourn delightful, and are fre- 
quented by large numbers of Eastern visitors. 

Returning north from Los Angeles by rail we 
stepped at Madeira, where we took stage, and 



390 A TOUR 

after a long day's ride over the mountains arrived 
at Clark^s station. 

Near this are the Mariposa Big Trees, a species 
of red cedar, probably the largest in the world. 
The greatest of these monsters of the forest which 
is now fallen is said to have measured go feet in 
circumference, and 400 feet in height, with bark 
about four feet in thickness ; the Monarch, one of 
the tallest standing, is nearly 300 feet high ; and 
the Wyoming is of such size as to allow of a six- 
horse stage passing through an archway formed 
by a hole cut in the trunk of the tree. 

Resuming our journey by stage, the following 
day at noon we reached the great Yosemite Val- 
ley, and halted at Inspiration Point to view the 
grand and wonderful scene before us. This val- 
ley is 6 miles long by j4 wide, with rocks tower- 
ing up on every side almost perpendicularly from 
3,000 to 6,000 feet in height; with torrents and 
river cascades falling from their summits, and al- 
most lost in spray before reaching the valley below. 

After locating ourselves at Hutching's Hotel, 
we procured both mules and guide, and spent 
three days riding up the precipitous trails to the 
various points for views ; the finest of which are 
obtained from Glacier Point, Clouds' Rest, Sen- 
tinel Dome, The Three Brothers and El Capitan ; 
while the Yosemite, Bridal Veil, Nevada, and 
Vernal Falls, are the grandest and most beautiful 
features of the Yosemite. 



, AROUND THE WORLD. 391 

Mirror Lake at the end of the Valley whose 
placid waters reflect the precipitous foliage- 
crowned mountains which border it, well repaid 
an early visit, when to its usual beauty was added 
that of the sun rising in slow majesty above the 
mountain tops and mirroring itself in the calm 
waters at their base. 

Leaving the Yosemite by stage over another 
route we visited the Calaveras Grove of Big 
Trees, similar to those just mentioned, the prin- 
cipal feature, however, being one which it took 
five men with pump-augers 25 days to cut down, 
and the surface of whose stump has been con- 
verted into a ball-room where 32 couples have 
danced at one time. 

Resuming the rail again at Stockton passing 
on the way Sacramento, the capital of California, 
numerous placer gold-mines where whole moun- 
tains were being washed away by means of hy- 
draulic power, the beautiful Blue Caiion with its 
numerous points of interest, and after rounding 
Cape Horn, from whose dizzy heights one gazes 
down awe struck into the depths below, we 
reached Reno. 

Here changing trains, we passed through 
Carson, the capital of Nevada, and ascended the 
mountain to the great silver quartz mining dis- 
trict of Virginia City. 

By special invitation from one of the '' Bo- 
nanza kings " we visited the Consolidated Virginia 



392 A TOUR 

and California mines. Ladies as well as gentle- 
men donning the ordinary flannel outfit worn by 
miners, and each carrying a lantern, we stepped 
upon the cage — or elevator, and sped with the 
rapidity of lightning down to the 1, 600 foot level. 
Here we saw some of the richest silver quartz de- 
posits ever discovered ; and miners stripped to 
the waist, the perspiration streaming from every 
pore, working in relays; the heat being so intense 
that it is impossible for them to continue their 
labor unremittingly for any length of time. The 
tunnels in these subterranean regions extend in 
every direction, and are lighted with thousands of 
candles, which with the railroads, drills and other 
machinery at work, present the animated appear- 
ance of an underground city. 

From here we visited Lake Tahoe, a lovely 
body of deep clear water, 25 miles in length, and 
10 in width, located among the snow-capped 
peaks in the Sierra Nevada mountains 6,000 
feet above the sea level, where we spent the time 
delightfully, hunting, rowing, and fishing. 

Returning to San Francisco we took rail and 
stage to Portland, Oregon, stopping en route at 
Sissons, at the foot of Mt. Shasta, and thence 
through the romantic Puget Sound, sailing among 
its many islands. We then continued through the 
Columbia River, which teems with salmon and 
other fine fish, and on either side of which are 
rocky cliffs and beautiful cascades to the Dalles ; 



AROUND THE WORLD. 393 

where we joined the Northern Pacific R. R. and 
journeyed east as far as Livingston, where a branch 
railway and stage a distance of 60 miles south, 
brought us to the National Yellowstone Park, in 
the northwest corner of Wyoming Territory. 

This Park which comprises 3,575 square miles, 
and is more than 6,000 feet above the level of the 
sea, embraces not only the grandest of scenery 
but the most marvellous freaks of nature ; here 
are probably 50 geysers that throw a column of 
water to a height of from 50 to 250 feet each, and 
5,000 springs depositing lime and silica, around 
their borders in elaborate ornamentation and in a 
variety of colors. The Yellowstone Lake with 
an altitude of 7,800 feet, sends forth the river of 
the same name, which after making a number of 
beautiful falls, cuts its way for 20 miles through 
the almost solid rock called the Grand Canon, 
which is 1,500 feet deep, and only 500 yards 
wide ; and remarkable for the variety of tints in 
its formation. 

The mountain range which hems in this val- 
ley on every side rises to a height of 12,000 feet, 
and its numerous mud volcanoes show that this 
entire region was at a comparatively recent period 
the scene of remarkable volcanic activity. 

Continuing our journey southward we stopped 
at Salt Lake City, or Zion, prettily situated 
near a lake of the same name, and on a gradual 
slope bordering the River Jordan. This is the 



394 ^ TOUR 

residence and headquarters of the President and 
Saints who govern the Mormon world, uphold 
polygamy, and exact the payment of tithes as in 
olden times. While the Mormons as a class are 
very ignorant, the city is rapidly growing, owing 
to its charming situation, good climate, and adja- 
cent rich mines. 

Its great Tabernacle seating 15,000 people, 
with dome-shaped roof, and containing an im- 
mense organ, together with the Temple and As- 
sembly Hall stand out as prominent landmarks of 
the place. 

Proceeding from here along the Denver and 
Rio Grande R. R. we saw in the distance the 
Mountain of the Holy Cross, so called from a ra- 
vine about 40 feet deep at its summit, forming 
a perfect cross, which is filled with snow the year 
round, and is so prominent as to be visible 80 
miles distant. 

We passed through the Grand Canon of the 
Arkansas, a narrow defile with perpendicular 
walls of rock on each side, rising to a height of 
3,000 feet; while the railroad bed and bridges are 
suspended from the rock above, so as to enable 
the trains to pass over and along the rushing tor- 
rents that flow through it. Further on we passed 
Pike's Peak, 14,300 feet high, the mountain which 
created such great excitement several years ago, 
on account of its gold deposits; and at the foot of 
which are the Garden of the Gods, a curious up- 



. AkOUND THE WORLD. 395 

heaval and washing of rocks ; and Manitou 
Springs, where are to be found both soda and 
iron waters ; and which is so much frequented as 
to be called the '' Saratoga of the Far West." 

At Denver, the capital of Colorado, which is 
a well-built city with 50,000 inhabitants, we 
stopped over a day, and then continued our jour- 
ney, changing cars at Council Bluffs after crossing 
the Missouri River, and at Davenport viewed the 
Mississippi, called from its great length the 
** Father of Rivers." 

Chicago, situated on Lake Michigan in Illi- 
nois, with a population of 600,000 and the most 
important city of the West, is noted for its mag- 
nificent business houses, and fine residences, 
which are not surpassed anywhere in the world. 
The enterprise of its people is proverbial ; as was 
evidenced by the quickness and solidity with 
which the city was rebuilt, when destroyed by the 
great fire of 1871, which consumed 17,450 build- 
ings, covering an area of 3^ square miles. 
Chicago is centrally located in the United States, 
has numerous fine hotels, and is a great railroad 
centre ; these advantages have caused it to be 
selected of late years as a place of assembly for 
national delegations. Its parks and boulevards, 
especially those bordering on the lake, are partic- 
ularly fine ; and here the driving can be seen of 
an afternoon while enjoying the refreshing breeze 
from the water. 



39^ A totjk 

From Chicago we journeyed east, passing 
through Indianapohs, the capital of Indiana; 
crossed the Ohio River at Louisville, and passed 
through the Blue grass regions of Kentucky, to 
the Greenbriar White Sulphur Springs of West 
Virginia. This fashionable resort is located in a 
basin surrounded by mountains; the Springs and 
large Hotel being situated in the centre of the 
grounds and completely encircled by cottages, 
while morning, noon, and night, there is a round 
of gaiety, and dancing to the strains of a delight- 
ful band of music. 

At Lexington we stopped to visit the two 
great colleges of the South ; the Virginia Military 
Institute, and the Washington- Lee University ; and 
to see the graves of Virginia's two noblest sons 
and greatest generals, Robert E. Lee and T. J. 
(Stonewall) Jackson. In a memorial chapel, in 
the grounds of the Washington-Lee University, is 
a life-size recumbent figure of Gen. Lee dressed 
in full uniform, with his sword beside him, cut 
from the purest of white marble ; a magnificent 
piece of work, and a life-like portrait. 

The Natural Bridge of Virginia is a sight well 
worth travelling thousands of miles to see. It is 
a solid arch of rock 200 feet high and 90 feet 
wide affording a safe roadway over a deep chasm 
which cannot be crossed for miles above or below; 
while beneath the bridge flows a rippling stream 
of water ; and this with the surrounding beauties 



, AROUND THE WORLD. 397 

of nature are illuminated at night with calcium 
lights and colored lanterns, producing a most 
beautiful effect. 

Near here is Appomattox, the scene of the 
surrender of Gen. R. E. Lee, with his Confederate 
army, to Gen. U. S. Grant, commanding the 
United States forces April 9th, 1865, which vir- 
tually terminated the civil war that had lasted 
for over four years. 

At Luray where we found a magnificent hotel 
most charmingly situated amid mountain scenery, 
we visited the famous Luray Cavern, which ex- 
tends several miles under ground, and is divided 
into sections or compartments, called the Hall of 
Giants, the Theatre, the Ball-room, Pluto's Chasm, 
and Skeleton Gulch, while the electric lights 
shining through the transparent lime formations of 
stalagmite and stalactite present a fairy-like 
scene, and are named, and perfect representations 
of, the Ghost, the Fish- market, the Saracens Tent, 
the Organ, the Bird's-nest, the Tower of Babel 
and Cinderella leaving the ball. 

Charlestown, the county seat of Jefferson, West 
Virginia, is noted as the place where John Brown 
and his six surviving associates were tried, con- 
demned for treason and insurrection, and hung 
December 2nd, 1859. 

Eight miles beyond is Harper's Ferry, located 
at the junction of the Potomac and Shenandoah 
rivers, with high mountains on every side, which 



398 A TOUR 

with the canal boats, and trains of cars continually 
passing, combine to form a scene of picturesque 
grandeur. It was here that John Brown and his 
comrades at dead of night seized the U. S. 
Arsenal and other buildings with their contents ; 
and after taking from their beds the most promi- 
nent citizens of the neighborhood, held them as 
hostages, expecting the black slaves to uprise 
and flock to their standard, in the attempt to gain 
their freedom. This bold and daring plot proved 
a complete failure, caused much excitement, and 
cost many lives; but was undoubtedly the pre- 
lude to the late Civil War of 1861-1865, which 
occasioned so much bloodshed, and was the 
means of abolishing slavery in the United States. 



CHAPTER XXXIV. 

WASHINGTON: BALTIMORE: ANNAPOLIS: PHILADELPHIA: 
NEW YORK: LONG BRANCH: CONEY ISLAND: BROOK- 
LYN: HUDSON RIVER: WEST POINT: CATSKILL 
MTS.: ALBANY : SARATOGA : LAKE GEORGE : NIAGARA 
falls: ST. LAWRENCE RIVER: MONTREAL: QUEBEC: 
WHITE MTS.: boston: providence: NEWPORT. 

Washington City, the capital of the United 
States of America, with a population of 150,000, 
is situated in an undulating plain on the banks of 



AROUND THE WORLD. 399 

the Potomac river. It is to-day one of the finest 
cities in the world, and with its broad streets 
paved w^ith asphaltum, and bordered with grass 
plots, and at every short distance a heroic statue 
in bronze or marble of some statesman or general, 
bids fair at no distant day to be unsurpassed by 
any city on the globe. 

The monuments in Washington are so numer- 
ous that it would fill a volume alone to describe 
them ; the principal ones, however, are the 
Washington Monument, a four-sided shaft of 
white marble, 465 feet high, — the highest in the 
world, costing over one million dollars ; the 
Naval Monument, erected to the memory of sea- 
men who fell in the war of 1861-5, a magnificent 
marble group ; while those of Generals Jackson, 
Scott, Thomas, and McPherson, mounted on 
horseback, with those of Presidents Washington 
and Lincoln, and Admiral Farragut, standing on 
high pedestals, are a few of the finest, located at 
the intersection of the streets. 

The Capitol building, whose corner-stone was 
laid by Gen. Washington in 1793, stands on a 
terraced hill 90 feet high, environed by beautiful 
grounds, and is the most imposing structure of its 
kind in the world. It is built of white marble 
and freestone, measures 750 feet in length, and 
covers an area of 3^ acres ; its magnificent dome 
surmounted by the Statue of Liberty, the grand- 
est feature of this vast structure, being visible for 



400 A TOUR 

many miles away. At the mam and central en- 
trance of the building, where the Presidents take 
the oath of office, is the colossal marble statue of 
Washington ; on either side are figures symbolical 
of Peace and War, and the bronze doors designed 
by Rodgers and cast by Muller, of Munich, 
weigh 20,000 pounds, and are a marvel of work- 
manship and beauty. 

In the rotunda are eight large paintings with 
figures, heroic size, illustrating scenes in American 
history, viz.: Columbus discovering America, the 
Baptism of Pocahontas, De Soto discovering the 
Mississippi, the Surrender of Cornwallis, Signing 
the Declaration of Independence, and the Resig- 
nation of Washington ; above and extending all 
around the dome is the celebrated fresco, which 
stands out like an alto-relievo of marble figures, 
and on the ceiling is a group of 63 portraits 
covering a space of 6,000 feet. 

The National Statuary Hall, semi-circular in 
form, is surrounded by 24 columns of variegated 
green breccia or pudding-stone taken from the 
quarries near the city ; and here are statues of 
statesmen and warriors, each State being allowed 
to send figures of two of its most prominent men : 
among whom are Washington, Jefferson, Hamil- 
ton, Allen, Green, Livingston, and Lincoln. In 
other parts of the building are portraits of presi- 
dents and statesmen, besides paintings of the 
settlement of California, and Perry's victory on 



AROUND THE WORLD. 4OI 

Lake Champlain ; while the Marble Room, ex- 
travagant in its decoration, the Supreme Court, 
and the Library of Congress are all well worth 
an inspection. In one wing of the Capitol is the 
Senate Chamber, and at the other end the House 
of Representatives, where the Congress of the 
United States meets in session from December to 
March to make its laws; the gayest and most fash- 
ionable season of the Capitol is during the session. 

Other important buildings at Washington are 
the Executive Mansion, usually called the White 
House, — the residence of the President of the 
United States, — the Treasury, State, War, Navy, 
and Pension buildings, Post Office and Agricul- 
tural Departments, all magnificent structures built 
of granite, which well repaid an interior investi- 
gation ; and the Botanical Gardens, Smithsonian 
Institute, Naval Observatory, and Navy Yard we 
visited in turn, deriving from each both pleasure 
and information. 

The Corcoran Gallery, a large brick and 
brown stone building, contains a varied and valu- 
able collection, comprising among its statuary the 
Greek Slave, by Powers, and the Dying Napoleon, 
by Vela ; and among the 200 paintings, many of 
which are gems, is the Procession of the Holy Bull 
Apis, in an Egyptian Temple, by a modern artist. 

The Soldiers' Home for disabled veterans, 
located in a park of 500 acres, is reached through a 
beautiful drive, the principal resort of an afternoon. 



402 A TOUR 

Georgetown and Alexandria are pretty subur- 
ban towns in close proximity to Washington ; in 
the former is Oak Hill Cemetery, where are the 
monuments of many eminent men, and the 
aqueduct which carries the water of the Chesa- 
peake and Ohio Canal across the Potomac river ; 
while in the latter is Christ Church, containing 
the pews number 59 and 46, which were once 
occupied by Washington and Lee. 

Across the Potomac, on the Virginia side, is 
Arlington, the magnificent residence of General 
Lee before the war of 1861, and 15 miles further 
down the river is Mt. Vernon, where Washington 
lived and now lies buried. 

At Baltimore, called the Monumental City 
from the number of its fine monuments, we drove 
through its natural and beautiful Druid Hill Park, 
and viewed its fine Washington and Battle Monu- 
ments ; then taking boat down the Patapsco 
river, made a brief visit to Annapolis, which con- 
tains the U. S. Naval Academy with its well 
laid out grounds. 

Philadelphia, a city of 900,000 inhabitants, 
located on the Schuylkill river, was founded by 
William Penn, who came over from England in 
1682 with a colony of Quakers, and purchased 
this site from the Indians for $2,500. Here the 
first Continental Congress assembled in 1774, 
and the Declaration of Independence was issued 
July 4th, 1776; here the Convention which 



AROUND THE WORLD. 403 

framed the Constitution of the Republic as- 
sembled in 1787; and here was the seat of gov- 
ernment of the United States until 1800, when it 
was removed to Washington. 

The city, which is 22 miles long by 8 wide, 
covers an area of 130 square miles, and has more 
buildings than any other city in America. 
Its manufacturing interests are very large, and 
while the streets as a general thing are narrow, 
it boasts of one of the finest parks in the world ; 
among its principal buildings are Independ- 
ence Hall, where July 4th, 1776, the Declaration 
of Independence was read and adopted ; the new 
City Hall, the Masonic Temple, and the Penn- 
sylvania Railroad depot. 

New York city, the commercial metropolis of 
the United States, and the most important city 
of the Western Hemisphere, occupies the entire 
surface of Manhattan Island, and a considerable 
district of the mainland. It is bounded on the 
west by the Hudson river, on the east by the 
East river, and on the south by New York Bay, 
which opens into the Atlantic Ocean. 

Its location for a city is an admirable one, 
surrounded on all sides by water of sufficient 
depth for vessels of the largest draught, and its 
population, which is rapidly increasing, numbers 
now over 1,250,000 inhabitants. 

The site of New York was discovered by Ver- 
razzani, a Florentine, in 1524, but was visited 



404 A TOUR 

later by Sir Henry Hudson, an Englishman, in the 
employ of the Dutch East India Co., who landed 
here Sept. 3rd, 1609, and claimed this as well as 
the surrounding country for Holland, by right of 
discovery. In 1 614, a Dutch colony settled the 
extreme end of the Island, or lower part of the 
city, now known as Bowling Green, and called it 
New Amsterdam, but in 1664 it was captured by 
the British under the Duke of York, since which 
time it has borne the name of New York City. 

Broadway and Fifth Avenue are its principal 
shopping and residence streets, running almost 
the entire length of the Island in the centre of the 
city. Starting from the extreme southern end of 
the Island called the Battery where is located Castle 
Garden, a large building where all emigrants are 
landed, we found ourselves in the commercial 
and financial part of the city surrounded on every 
side by colossal and imposing buildings, several 
rising to a height of fifteen stories, with domes 
and spires even towering above this, and some of 
them marking the sites where once stood houses 
occupied by Cornwallis, Howe, Clinton, Arnold 
and Washington, when the colonies were strug- 
gling for independence. 

One of the finest buildings in the city is the 
Produce Exchange, built of brick and iron, occu- 
pying an entire square on Whitehall Street, and 
covering the site of the house where died Robert 
Fulton, the inventor of the first steamboat '' The 



, AROUND THE WORLD. 4O5 

Clermont," which plied on the Hudson river in 
1807. 

At the intersection of Broad and Wall streets, 
the great banking centre, is the U. S. Sub-trea- 
sury, built of white marble, in front of which is a 
bronze statue of Washington, marking the spot 
where the old Federal Hall once stood, and the 
first President delivered his inaugural address. 

On Broadway at the head of Wall street, 
stands Trinity Church, an old and rich corpora- 
tion, dating back to 1696, built of brown stone, in 
the Gothic style, with a spire 284 feet high, from 
the top of which is obtained a magnificent view, 
and in its graveyard lie buried Hamilton, Fulton, 
Lawrence, and other distinguished men. Continu- 
ing up Broadway, crowded with hundreds of ve- 
hicles and a surging tide of humanity, we passed 
some of the finest structures of the city, and 
paused at old St. Paul's church, in front of which 
rest the remains of General Montgomery, killed 
in 177s in the assault upon Quebec. 

The City Hall, situated in the centre of a 
park, around and near which are located the lead- 
ing newspaper buildings and lawyers' offices, may 
be termed the legal and literary centre ; and in 
the Governor's room, on the second story of the 
City Hall, are the chair in which Washington sat 
when inaugurated President of the United States, 
and the desk on which he wrote his first message 
to Congress. In close vicinity are the Post Office, 



4o6 A TOUR 

built of granite, at a cost of $12,000,000, and the 
Times and Tribune newspaper buildings, magnifi- 
cent structures towering up to a formidable height. 

The great East River Bridge, connecting New 
York and Brooklyn, — the New York entrance 
being at the City Hall Park — is the largest sus- 
pension bridge in existence, and a gigantic and 
remarkable piece of engineering, deserving to be 
styled one of the seven wonders of the modern 
world. 

The length of this bridge measures 5,989 feet; 
the central span, which crosses the river from 
tower to tower, is 1,595 feet; while the approach 
and span from the New York side measures 2,493, 
and that from the Brooklyn side 1,901 feet. 

The towers on either side, built of granite, rise 
to a height of 278 feet above high water, and 
support the four cables of steel, each of which 
measures 16 inches in diameter and contains 5,282 
galvanized wires, to which the bridge is swung. 

The floor of the span is 135 feet above high- 
water mark, thus enabling the tallest ships to pass 
under it; and it is 85 feet in width, allowing a 
wide promenade for foot-passengers, two railroad 
tracks, and two roadways for vehicles. 

This stupendous triumph of engineering was 
planned by Col. John A. Roebling, and com- 
menced under his directions in January, 1870, and 
completed by his son, Washington Roebling, and 
opened to traffic May 23, 1883; having been 



. AROUND THE WORLD. 407 

about 13 years in process of building, at a cost of 
$15,000,000. 

Continuing up the city we passed through the 
Five Points, the London Petticoat Lane, viewing 
its depravity and wretchedness, and near which is 
the Tombs or city prison, covering an entire block, 
built of dark granite in the Egyptian style, where 
many notorious criminals have been confined. 

Union Square, which contains bronze monu- 
ments of Washington, Lafayette, and Lincoln, is 
surrounded by fine buildings, and is in the centre 
of the great shopping district which extends up 
and down Broadway for many blocks. Madison 
Square, where Broadway, Fifth Avenue, and 
Twenty-third street intersect one another, is the 
hotel and theatre centre, and in the very heart 
of New York city. 

Proceeding up Broadway we passed the prin- 
cipal theatres, including Wallack's, Daly's, the 
Casino, and Metropolitan Opera House ; and 
hotels and apartment houses many stories high. 

On Fifth Avenue, the principal street for driv- 
ing to the Park, are located the Union League and 
other fine clubs, the Catholic Cathedral, St. 
Thomas' Episcopal, and Dr. Hall's Presbyterian, 
churches, and the palatial residences of Stewart, 
Gould, Astor, and Vanderbilt, the millionaire 
princes of New York. 

Central Park, probably the finest in the world, 
extends from 59th to i loth Streets, and embraces 



4o8 A TOUR 

843 acres. It contains numbers of small lakes, 
magnificent fountains, lovely drives, romantic 
rambles, rock caverns, and rustic arbors. Here 
stands the Obelisk presented to New York by 
the Khedive of Egypt, the hieroglyphics on one 
side showing it to have been hewn during the 
reign of Thothmes III., while on the other are in- 
scribed the victories of Rameses II. 

Here also are bronze statues of Shakespeare, 
Scott, Burns, Webster, Goethe, Morse, and Hal- 
leck ; and various groups add to the embellish- 
ment of this enchanting spot. 

In one part of the grounds are the Zoological 
Gardens, with an interesting collection of animals, 
birds, and reptiles ; and in another the Metro- 
politan Museum of Art, comprising a fine collec- 
tion of statuary and paintings. 

Within the Park of an afternoon is a constant 
throng of fine and stylish equipages, and on Har- 
lem Lane may be seen some of the fastest trotters 
on record. 

Among a few of the other points of interest in 
the city ma)^ be mentioned. High Bridge, by 
which the Croton River water is carried over 
Harlem River to be distributed in the city mains; 
Madison Avenue with its superb residences and 
lofty churches; the Lenox and Astor Libraries; 
the Academy of Design; and on Blackwells Island 
in the East River the massive structures of the 
Penitentiary, Asylums, and Hospitals. 



AROUND THE WORLD. 409 

Convenient to New York are many summer 
resorts which can be reached in an hour or more 
either by water or rail. 

The principal of these is Long Branch, where 
there is fine surf bathing and a fashionable drive 
which extends for several miles along the beach. 
The hotels are large and numerous, and the cot- 
tages, many of which are built in the Queen Anne 
style of architecture, are environed by beautiful 
gardens, and well-kept lawns. 

Coney Island being the most accessible sea- 
side resort to New York, is the most popular with 
the masses, and here on a summer's day may be 
seen from 50,000 to 100,000 persons sporting in 
the waves, or enjoying the various amusements 
and attractions of the place. 

The Hotels are on a very large scale, a truly 
unique one being built in the form of an ele- 
phant, 175 feet high, containing 30 rooms, and 
a hall 92 by 38 feet. Entering a door at a toe 
on the left hind leg, one ascends numbers of 
stairs, and traverses various sections of the beast's 
anatomy, and finally emerges in the gilded how- 
dah on its back, from which there is a fine view 
of water and landscape. 

Jersey City and Newark are suburban towns, 
with a population of about 140,000 each, and 
Brooklyn, the third largest city in the United 
States, with a population of 600,000, is directly 
opposite New York and connected with the latter 



410 A TOUR 

city by the East River bridge. We drove over 
this obtaining a fine view of the harbor, and 
reaching Brooklyn continued through its avenues 
of brown stone houses to Prospect Park, contain- 
ing 550 acres, and thence to Greenwood cemetery, 
where are many rich and handsome tombs and 
monuments. 

Taking boat from New York we sailed up the 
beautiful and romantic Hudson River, the Rhine 
of America, whose banks teem with legends and 
historic interest. 

We first passed the spot where Burr killed 
Hamilton in a duel ; then Forts Lee and Washing- 
ton of Revolutionary fame ; Mt. St. Vincent, once 
the home of Forrest the actor; Yonkers, where 
lived Mary Phillips, Washington's first love; 
Tappan, where Major Andre was imprisoned and 
executed ; Irvington, which contains ^^ Sunny- 
side " the late residence of Washington Irving; 
Tarrytown, where Andre was arrested, where 
Irving lies buried, and the scene of the author's 
happiest fancies, including *' Sleepy Hollow;" 
Sing Sing, with its gloomy state prison ; Croton 
Point, above which the water of the Croton river 
is conveyed to New York by the great Croton 
Aqueduct 40 miles long, with 16 tunnels, and 24 
bridges ; and Caldwell's Landing, where it is said 
the famous pirate, Capt. Kidd, buried his treasure. 
Here we reached the Highlands, and passed 
rapidly by Thunder Mountain, with its beautiful 



AROUND THt: WORLD. 41! 

cascade ; Anthony's Nose, a rocky promontory ; 
the picturesque lona Island, a favorite picnic re- 
sort ; Sugar-loaf Mountain at the foot of which is 
Beverly House, where Arnold was breakfasting 
when he heard of the capture of Andre ; and 
Cranston's Hotel, one of the favorite summer re- 
sorts, commanding a fine view of the river and 
mountain. 

We landed at West Point, by far the most 
charming spot on the Hudson, where is located 
the U. S. Military Academy, including an exten- 
sive parade ground where the cadets are instructed 
in infantry, artillery, and cavalry drill. 

On one side are the residences of the com- 
manding general, officers and professors, together 
with the barracks, mess-hall, chapel and observ- 
atory; and on the other side are the forts contain- 
ing the heavy artillery, w^iich command the river, 
and from which point are obtained glorious views 
in all directions. 

Continuing our interesting trip up the Hudson 
we landed at Catskill, and there took rail and 
stage up the Catskill Mountains. About midway 
up the mountain in a secluded dell is pointed 
out the spot where Rip Van Winkle took his 
famous sleep ; and near the summit are two mag- 
nificent hotels, the Kaaterskill, and Mountain 
House, from both of which one looks down upon 
a far-spreading panorama with the Hudson River 
running through it like a silver thread. 



4T2 A TOUR 

Albany, the capital of New York State is, next 
to Jamestown in Virginia, the oldest settlement in 
the country, having been a Dutch trading point 
in 1 614. It is built on a hill sloping towards the 
river, on the summit of which is Capitol Square, 
and the finest public buildings of the city. 

Saratoga, a place of 10,000 inhabitants, is 
celebrated for its famous mineral springs, which 
attract annually some 50,000 people from all 
parts of the globe. It has altogether some 25 
springs, containing iron, sulphur and magnesia ; 
the Congress and Hathorn, with large propor- 
tions of carbonic-acid gas, being, however, the 
most popular. 

Besides a few fine residences, here are some 
of the grandest hotels in the country which are 
crowded to their utmost during July and August, 
the racing season, and on whose wide verandahs, 
during the hours that the bands play, the ladies 
may be seen arrayed in elegant costumes and 
wearing costly jewels. 

From here we visited that lovely sheet of 
water. Lake George, stopping at Fort William 
Henry, and Rodgers Rock ; thence by boat, and 
stage to the historic spot of Ticonderoga, and after 
doing the Adirondack Mountains, and skirting 
numerous beautiful lakes we arrived at Niagara. 

The Niagara Falls, are formed by the Niagara 
River which drains Lake Erie, and falls perpen- 
dicularly t68 feet over a rock formation, of horse- 



AROUND THE WORLD. 413 

shoe shape 4,750 feet wide. In the centre of the 
river, and on the brink of the precipice, is Goat 
Island, which is reached by a bridge ; from this 
point the venturesome, enveloped in water-proofs 
and accompanied by a guide, go under the Falls, 
and through the Cave of the Winds, where on a 
sunshiny day one stands in the centre of a perfect 
rainbow circle. At night when the colored cal- 
cium lights are thrown upon the cataracts, the ef- 
fect is most wonderful, the red light resembling a 
5ea of blood. It is estimated that no less than 
100,000,000 gallons of water per hour pass over 
the falls, which with the whirlpool rapids, and the 
beautiful suspension bridge below, combine to 
make a scene of unsurpassed grandeur, which 
grows upon one the more it is seen. 

We passed from here by rail through Lock- 
port, so called from its numerous canal locks, 
and afterwards taking steamer on the St. Lawrence 
River, sailed among the Thousand Islands, 
shooting the rapids, and landing at Montreal in 
Canada. This is the largest city and commercial 
emporium of British America, and contains in its 
public square a marble statue of Queen Victoria. 

Quebec, the oldest and most interesting city 
in Canada, is on the north bank of the St. Law- 
rence 300 miles from its mouth. The old town is 
surrounded by walls three miles in extent, and the 
Citadel covering 40 acres, and crowning the sum- 
mit of a rock hill, is styled the Gibraltar of America. 



414 A TOUR 

Along the edge of the diff and 200 feet 
above the river is Dufferin Terrace, i^ of a mile 
long, overlooking the St. Lawrence and the city ; 
while in the vicinity are appropriate monuments 
erected to the memory of the gallant Wolf and 
Montcalm. 

Continuing our journey we skirted the shores 
of Lake Champlain, and stopped at the Profile, 
Crawford, and Glen Houses, in the White Moun- 
tains, to see their various features of interest, and 
enjoy the fine mountain views ; and ascended Mt. 
Washington 6,293 feet high, by a railway similar 
to the one up the Rigi. 

Boston with a population of 400,000 is situated 
principally on a peninsular extending into Massa- 
chusetts Bay. It was here that on March 5, 
1770, the Boston Massacre occurred when the 
soldiers fired upon the citizens, killing and wound- 
ing many people, and here on Dec. 16, 1773, the 
tea was thrown overboard into the harbor, which 
w^as one of the opening scenes of the Revolution- 
ary War. 

The business streets of the city, unlike most in 
America are crooked and narrow, but in the resi- 
dence and newer portion they are wide and 
straight, and contain some fine churches and 
public buildings. 

The Common, a park of 50 acres in the heart 
of the city, is not only historic, but the principal 
pleasure-ground, and near its celebrated Frog 



AROUND THE WORLD. 415 

pond, is erected the Soldiers Monument, 90 feet 
high, with four statues of heroic size at its base ; 
while in the Public Gardens adjoining are the 
statues of Washington, Everett, and Sumner. 

The Bunker Hill Monument, on the site of 
the old fort at Breed Hill, is a square obelisk of 
Quincy granite, 220 feet high, and commemorates 
the battle fought on that spot June 17, 1775. 

The buildings of greatest interest in Boston 
are Faneuil Hall of Revolutionary fame ; the 
State House, with its collection of statuary, paint- 
ings and historic relics ; Memorial Hall, and Music 
Hall, the latter one of the finest in America, con- 
taining the second largest organ in the world. 

At Cambridge, a suburb of Boston, is located 
the Harvard University, founded by the Rev. 
John Harvard in 1638, and one of the oldest and 
richest institutions of learning in America. 

After leaving Boston we stopped at Provi- 
dence, the capital of Rhode Island, founded in 
1636 by Roger Williams, who had been banished 
from Massachusetts on account of his religious 
beliefs. Here are Brown University, an old 
institution of learning, and the City Hall, one of 
the finest buildings of the kind in New England, 
which was erected at a cost of $1,000,000. 

Newport, the queen sea-side resort of the 
East, is on Narragansett Bay, 5 miles from the 
ocean. It has limited hotel accommodations, and 
its beach is not as fine as that at Long Branch, It 



41 6 A TOUR 

is principally the resort of wealthy New Yorkers, 
who have built magnificent and substantial houses 
which they call cottages. The season here con- 
tinues later than at other resorts, for in Septem- 
ber when business men have returned to the 
cities, a round of gaieties is inaugurated which 
renders this month probably the most enjoyable 
of the season. 

Here taking one of the magnificent Sound 
steamers, we sailed through Long Island Sound 
and down the East River under the great Sus- 
pension Bridge, passing near Bedloe's Island, where 
Bartholdi's bronze Statue of Liberty, a gift from 
the people of France to the people of the United 
States is about to be erected. This is the colossal 
figure of a woman bearing a torch in her up-lifted 
hand, which with its pedestal when completed will 
stand 300 feet high, the tallest statue in the world, 
and with its electric light throwing countless 
rays many miles out to sea, will serve as a beacon 
of welcome to the stranger from foreign shores. 

Viewing from the harbor the marvels of engin- 
eering skill, and the gigantic structures completed 
during our absence, we noted with pride the 
advancement and enterprise of our own people 
compared with those of many other countries, 
and hailed with joy our return to New York 
after a two years' tour, in which we had made 
the entire circuit of the globe. 



INDEX. 



PLACE 

Abbey Cambuskenneth, 

** Dryburgh, 

** Melrose, 

•* Muckross, 

*' Stoneleigh, 
Abbotsford, 
Abilene, 
Abo, Finland, 
Abydos (Ruins), 
Abydos, Asia Minor, 
Aden, 
Agra, 

Ahmadabad, 
Ain-Karim, 
Aix-la-Chapelie, 
Albany, N. Y., 
Alexandria, 
Algiers, 
Alpnach, 
Altdorf. 
Amber, 
Amiens, 
Amsterdam. 
Annapolis. Md., 
Antinoopolis, 
Antwerp, 
Appomattox, Va., 
Assioot, 
Asswan, 
Athens, 
Aussee, 
Ayr, 

Baalbec (Ruins), 
Baden-IJaden, 
Badrachin 
IniUoch-Pier, 
Baltimore. Md., 
F5antry, 
Baroda, 
Baj: rack poor. 





POPULATION 


XOUNTRY 


PAGE 






Scotland, 


12 






a 


16 






(( 


16 






Ireland, 


5 






England, 


34 






Scotland, 


16 






Syria, 


273 




23,000 


Russia, 


76 






E^ypt, 


236 




1,000 


Turkey, 


287 




5,000 


Arabia, 


304 




138,000 


India, 


342 




117,000 


(( 


333 






Syria, 


246 




86,000 


Germany, 


150 




95,000 


U. S. A. 


412 




212,000 


Egypt, 


223 




60 000 


Algeria, 


176 




1,000 


Switzerland, 


^33 




3,000 


. i 


132 




3,000 


India, 


335 




67,000 


France, 


299 




327,000 


Holland, 


61 




7,000 


U. S. A., 


402 






''gypt, 


235 




163,000 


Belgium, 


58 




1,000 


U. S. A., 


397 




28,000 


Egypt, 


235 




5,000 


♦ « 


240 




64,000 


Greece, 


280 




1,000 


Austria, 


121 




18,000 


Scotland, 


8 






Syria. 


274 




11,000 


Germany, 


144 






Egypt. 


233 






Scotland, 


10 




332,000 


U. S. A., 


402 


, 


3,000 


Ireland, 


3 




140,000 


India, 


333 




10. coo 


( ( 


357 



27 



4i8 



INDEX. 



PLACE 


POPULATION 


COUNTRY 


PAGE 


Basle, 


45,000 


Switzerland, 


142 


Batrichgarden, 


1,000 


Bavaria, 


123 


Bayonne, 


28,000 


France, 


157 


Beira, - - - 




Syria, 


262 


Beit Jenn, 




n 


270 


Belbeis, 




Egypt, 


242 


Belfast, 


208,000 


Ireland, 


6 


Bellagio, 


3,000 


Italy, 


141 


Benares, - - 


208,000 


India, 


349 


Beni-Hassan, 




Egypt, 


235 


Berlin, 


1,123,000 


Germany, 


98 


Bern, 


36,000 


Switzerland, 


136 


Bethany, 


2,000 


Syria, 


261 


Bethel, 


1,000 


n 


262 


Bethlehem, 


5,000 


(( 


255 


Bethsaida, 




ii 


268 


Bettws-y-coed, 


3,000 


Wales, 


39 


Beyrout, 


100,000 


Syria, 


275 


Biarritz, 


5,000 


France, 


157 


Big Trees, (Mariposa), Cal., 




U. S. A., 


390 


Big Trees^ (Calaveras,) Cal., 




a 


391 


Bingen, 


8,000 


Germany, 


147 


Black Forest, 




< < 


145 


Blidah, 


12,000 


Algeria, 


175 


Blois, - - 


21,000 


France, 


155 


Bludan, 




Syria, 


273 


Blue Grotto, 




Italy, 


222 


Bologna, 


112,000 


«< 


199 


Bombay, 


750,000 


India, 


329 


Bordeaux, 


216,000 


Prance, 


156 


Bordein, 




Egypt, 


242 


Bor Ghat, - - 




India, 


328 


Bosphorus, 




Turkey, 


294 


Boston, Mass., 


375.000 


U. S. A., 


414 


Boulogne, 


40.000 


France, 


298 


Bowness, 


3,000 


England, 


36 


Brahmanism, 




India, 


312 


Bremen, - - 


113,000 


Germany, 


62 


Brieg, 


1,000 


Switzerland, 


140 


Brienz, 


1,000 


*i 


134 


Brighton, - 


110,000 


England, 


39 


Brindisi, 


14,000 


Italy, 


222 


Brixlegg, Tyrol, 


1,000 


Austria, 


126 


Brohl, 


3,000 


Germany, 


148 


Brooklyn, N. Y., 


600,000 


U. S. A., 


409 


Brusa, 


10,000 


Turkey, 


287 


Brussels, 


171,000 


Belgium, 


55 


Bubastis, - . - 




Egypt. 


243 


Buda-Pesth, Hungary, 


308,000 


Austria, 


294 



IJS 


DEX. 




419 


PLACE 


POPULATION 


COUNTRY 


PAGE 


Buddhism, 




India, 


314 


Burgos, 


30,000 


Spain, 


157 


Bushy Park, 




England, 


30 


Cyesarea Philippi, 


1,000 


Syria, 


270 


Cairo, 


350,000 


Egypt, 


224 


Calcutta, 


795,000 


India, 


360 


Caligat, 


20,000 


(( 


361 


Callander, 


3,000 I 


Scotland, 


II 


Cambridge, Mass., 


6,000 


' U. S. A., 


415 


Cana, 


1,000 


Syria, 


267 


Canal, Gotha, 




Sweden, 


66 


** Suez, 




Egypt, 


300 


Cannes, 


10,000 


France, 


183 


Caiion, Arkansas. Col., 




U. S. A., 


394 


" Blue, Cal., 




6i 


391 


" Yellowstone. Wym'g., 




(i 


393 


Canton, 


1,300,000 


China, 


368 


Cape Horn, Cal., - 




U. S. A., 


391 


Capernaum, 




Syria, 


268 


Carlisle, 


31,000 


England, 


37 


Carlsbad, Bohemia, 


8,000 


Austria, 


296 


Carrara, 


24,000 


Italy, 


202 


Carson, Nev. 


7,000 


U. S. A. , 


391 


Castellamare, 


19,000 


Italy, 


221 


Caste, 




India, 


318 


Castle Aggershuus, 




Norway, 


68 


** Asia, 




Turkey, 


294 


** Banias, 




Syria, 


270 


*' Blarney, 




Ireland, 


2 


" Carisbrooke, 




Isle of Wight, 


39 


** Cardross,- 




Scotland, 


10 


** Chillon, 




Switzerland, 


137 


** Conway, 




Wales, 


39 


** Dumbarton, 




Scotland, 


10 


*• Dunluce, 




Ireland, 


6 


** Drachenfels, 




Germany, 


148 


" Edinburgh, 




Scotland, 


13 


* Ehrenfels, 




Germany, 


148 


" Ehrenbreitstein, 




a 


148 


'* Europe, 




Turkey, 


294 


** Johannisberg, 




Germany, 


147 


'* Kenilworth, 




England, 


34 


*' Kronborg, 




Denmark, 


65 


** Munkholm, 




Norway, 


70 


*' Pfalz, 




Germany, 


148 


" Reinfels, 




a 


148 


" Rheinstein, 




a 


148 


*' Rolandscck, 




a 


148 


• * Roslin^ 




Scotland, 


15 



420 



PLACE 
Castle Stirling, - 

" Stolzenfels, 

** Two Brothers, 

*' Warwick, 

•* Windsor, 
Cataract, Nile, 
Caves, Karli, 

** Luray, Va., - 
Cawnpore, 
Chamouni, 

Charlestown, W. Va , 
Charlottenburg, 
Chatsworth Hall, 
Chateau d'lf, - 
Chester, 
Chicago, Ills., 
Chillambaram, - 
Christiania, 
Clarks, Cal , 
Coblentz, 
Colombo, - 
Cologne, 
Como, 

Coney Island, N. Y., 
Constantinople, 
Constance, 
Conway, 
Copenhagen, 
Cordova, - 
Cork, 

Cork Forests, 
Cornice Road, 
Coventry, 
Cowes, 

Crystal Palace, 
Damascus, 
Dan, 
Daphne, 
Daphne-Pass, 
Dardanelles, 
Darjeeling, 
Dead Sea 
Delhi, 

Denver, Colo., 
Diejipe, 

Dijon, - - - 
Dothan, 

Dresden, Saxony, 
Dublin, - 



POPULATION 


COUNTRY 


PAGE 




Scotland, 


II 


\ 


Germany, 


148 




a 


148 




England, 


32 




( ( 


28 




Egypt 


242 




India, 


329 




U. S. A., 


397 


125,000 


India, 


346 


3,000 


France, 


139 


2,000 


U. S. A., 


397 


26,000 


Germany, 


103 




England, 


38 




France, 


182 


37,000 


England, 


36 


600 ,000 


U. S. A., 


395 


40,000 


India, 


325 


100,000 


Norway, 


67 




u, s. A.; 


390 


32,000 


Germany, 


148 


98,000 


I'd of Ceylon, 


306 


145,000 


Germany, 


148 


25,000 


Italy, 


142 


1 


U. S. A, 


409 


1,000,000 


Turkey, 


287 


14,000 


German V, 


130 


3,000 


Wales,' 


39 


236,000 


Denmark, 


63 


150,000 


Spain 


163 


79,000 


Ireland, 


2 




Spain, 


170 




France, 


185 


42,000 


England, 


34 


6,000 


Is. of Wight, 


40 




England, 


29 


175,000 


Syria, 


270 




( i 


269 




Egypt, 


301 




Greece, 


285 




Turkey, 


287 


10,000 


India, 


358 




Syria, 


257 


155,000 


India, 


33^ 


50,000 


U. S. A, 


395 


21,000 


France, 


299 


48,000 


(<. 


152 




Syria, 


264 


221,000 


Germany, 


105 


340,000 


Ireland, 


5 



Index, 



42 i 



PLACE 


POPULATION 


COUNTRY 


PAGE 


Durham, - - - - 


150 000 


England, 


37 


Edfoo, - - - - 


2,000 


Egypt, 


239 


Edinburgh, - - . 


230,000 


Scotland, 


13 


Eleusis, ... 


2,000 


Greece, 


285 


Elsinore, - - - - 


9,000 


Denmark, 


65 


Emmaus, - - 




Syria, 


246 


Ems, - - - - 


6,000 


Germany, 


298 


Endor, - - - - 


1,000 


Syria, 


265 


Epernay, - - - - 


16,000 


France, 


152 


Ephesus (Ruins), Asia Min'r, 




Turkey, 


278 


Escurial, 


2,000 


Spain, 


162 


Esdraelon Plain, 




Syria, 


264 


Esna, 


7,000 


Egypt, 


239 


Estura, - - - - 


1,000 


Syria, 


275 


Etam, - - - 


1,000 


4 ( 


256 


Feshneh, 




Egypt, 


234 


Ffestiniog, 


1,000 


Wales, 


39 


Florence, 


170,000 


Italy, 


199 


Fontainebleau, 


12,000 


France, 


52 


Fountain of Elisha, 




Syria, 


261 


Fijeh, 




i i 


273 


Frankfort-on-the- Maine, 


138,000 


(jermany, 


146 


Freiburg, 


37,000 


< ( 


143 


Freibourg, 


11,000 


Switzerland, 


136 


Gabbi, ... - 


1,000 


Italy, 


216 


Gap of Dunloe, 




Ireland, 


4 


Garden of the Gods, Col., 




U. S. A., 


394 


Gebel Silsileh, 




Egypt, 


240 


Geneva, - - - 


47,000 


Switzerland, 


13^ 


Genoa, - - 


162,000 


Italy, 


186 


Geysers, California, - 




U. S. A, 


388 


" Yellowstone, 




a 


398 


Gezer, - . . . 




Syria, 


247 


Giants Causeway, - 




Ireland, 


6 


Gibraltar, - - - _ 


25,000 


Spain, 


170 


Giesbach P'alls, 




Switzerland, 


134 


Girgeh, . - . _ 


2,003 


Egypt, 


236 


Gizeh, - - - - 




(( 


230 


Glasgow, - - - - 


512,000 


Scotland, 


7 


Glengariff, 




Ireland, 


3 


Gmlinden, _ _ _ 


2,000 


Austria, 


122 


Golconda, 


100,000 


India, 


328 


Golden Horn, 




Turkey, 


294 


Gorge of Chiffa, 




Algeria, 


176 


Gondo, 




Italy. 


141 


Trient, - 




Switzerland, 


140 


Gottenburg, 


75,000 


Sweden, 


66 


Granada, 


76,000 


Spain, 


166 


Greenwich, 


40,000 


England, 


31 



422 



INDEX. 



PLACE 


POPULATION 


COUNTRY 


Grindelwald, 


3,000 


Switzerland, 


Guys Cliff, - 




England, 


Gyswyl, - - - - 


2,000 


Switzerland, 


Hadden Hall, 




England, 


Halicarnassus, Asia Minor, 




Turkey, 


Hallstadt, - - - 


2,000 


Austria, 


Hanior, - - - . 


1,000 


Norway, 


Hamburg, 


290,000 


Germany, 


Hammerfest, 


2 000 


Norway, 


Hampton Court, 




England, 


Haran, -, - 




Syria, 


Harpers Ferry, \\'. Va., 


3,000 


U. S. A. 


Havre, - - 


93,000 


France, 


Hawthornden, 




Scotland, 


Hebron, - - - - 


5,000 


Syria, 


Heidelberg, 


25,000 


Germany, 


Heliopolis, - - - 




Egypt, 


Hellespont, 




Turkey, 


Helsingfors, Finland. 


34,000 


Russia, 


Herculaneum, _ _ _ 




Italy, 


Hinduism, 




India, 


Hiogo, 


41,000 


Japan, 


Homburg, 


9,000 


Germany, 


Hong Kong (Victoria), 


250,000 


China, 


Hyderabad, - 


200,000 


India, 


India, History and Religion, 






Indianapolis, Ind., 


80,000 


U. S. A., 


Innsbruck, Tyrol, 


17.000 


Austria, 


Interlachen, 


10,000 


Switzerland, 


Inversnaid, 




Scotland, 


I run. 


3,000 


Spain, 


lorea. 




Italy, 


Isch], 


2,000 


Austria, 


Island, Bedloe's, N. V., 




U. S. A., 


" Borromean, 




Italy, 


*• Capri, 




a 


*' Ceylon, 




G't Britain, 


** Coney, N. Y., 




U. S. A., 


" Cyprus, 




G't Britain, 


" Elba, 




Italy, 


'* Elephantine, 




Egypt. 


'' Hong Kong, 




China, 


Maldire, 




G't Britain, 


'' Mitylene, 




Turkey, 


Patmos, - 




(( 


'* Penang, 




G't Britain, 


Philse, 




Egypt, 


<* Rhodda, 




(• 


«* Rhodes, 




Turkey, 



INDEX. 



423 



PLACE 


POPULATION 


COUNTRY 


PAGE 


Island, Samos, 




Turkey, 


277 


*' Scio, 




i ( 


278 


** Symi, 




a 


277 


*' Tenedos, 




(( 


286 


Ismailia, - - - 


3,000 


Egypt, 


301 


Jaffa, (Joppa), 


8,000 


Syria, 


244 


Jains, 




India, 


317 


Jeddah, 


10,000 


Arabia, 


302 


Jenin, 




. Syria, 


264 


Jericho, - - - 




(( 


261 


Jersey City, N. J., - 


125,000 


U. S. A., 


409 


Jerusalem, 


36,000 


Syria, 


247 


Jeypoor, 


150 000 


India, 


334 


Jezreel, 




Syria, 


265 


Jonkoping, - - - 


16,000 


Sweden, 


66 


Kafr Hauwar, - 


1,000 


Syria, 


270 


Kamakura, 


7,000 


Japan, 


3^5 


Kandy, 


18,000 


Ceylon, 


308 


Kantara, - - - 




Egypt, 


301 


Karli Caves, 




India, 


329 


Karnak (Ruins) 




Egypt, 


237 


Keneh, 


3,000 


■ n 


236 


Kenilworth, 


4,000 


England, 


34 


Keswick, 


3,000 


i i 


37 


Kew Gardens, 




(( 


29 


Killarney, 


5,000 


Ireland, 


4 


Kioto, 


300,000 


Japan, 


376 


Kirjathjearim, - 




Syria, 


246 


Kistnah Valley, - - 




India, 


328 


Kobe, 


10,000 


Japan, 


375 


Kom Omboo, 




Egypt, 


240 


Konigssee, 




Bavaria, 


124 


Lake Biwako, 




Japan, 


376 


'• Brienz, 




Switzerland, 


135 


•* Champlain, N. Y., - 




U. S. A. . 


414 


*' Como, 




Italy, 


142 


'* Derwentwater, 




England, 


37 


*' Geneva, 




Switzerland, 


^37 


*' George, N, Y., 




U. S. A., 


412 


*' Grassmere, 




England, 


37 


•^ Killarney, 




Ireland, 


4 


'* Lucerne, 




Switzerland, 


132 


*• Lugano, 




Italy, 


141 


* ' Maggiore, 




a 


141 


** Merom, 




Syria, 


269 


*' Rydalwater, 




England, 


37 


" Sarnen, 




Switzerland 


^33 


- Tahoe, Cal., 




U. S. A., 


392 


*' Thirlmere, 




England, 


37 



424 



INDEX. 



PLACE 


POPULATION 


COUNTRY 


PAGE 


Lake Thun, 




Switzerland, 


135 


*' Tiberias, 


1 


Syria, 


267 


" Traun, 


1 


Austria, 


122 


** Windermere, 


1 


England, 


36 


- Zug, 




Switzerland, 


132 


<* Zurich, 




(k 


131 


" Yellowstone, 




U. S. A., 


393 


Lancaster, - 


21.000 


England, 


36 


Lanowlee, 


i,ooo 


India, 


329 


Larnica, - - - 


i5,oco 


Cyprus, 


276 


Lalroon, 




Syria, 


246 


Lausanne, - 


27.000 


Switzerland, 


^37 


Lautdrbrunnen, 


1 2,000 


(( 


136 


Leamiington, 


1 23,000 


England, 


32 


cLegborn, - l- 


98,000 


Italy, 


204 


Lexiiigton, Va., 


3.000 


U. S. A., 


396 


Linz, - . _ 


30,000 


Austria, 


113 


Liverpool, - 


553,000 


England, 


3^ 


Livingston, 


3,000 


U. S. A., 


393 


Llandudno, 


1,000 


Wales, 


39 


Loch Katrine, - 




Scotland, 


II 


" Lomond, 




t< 


10 


Lockport, N. Y., 


14,000 


U. S. A., 


413 


London, - - . .. 


4,000,000 


England, 


18 


Long Branch, N. J. , 


7,000 


U. S. A. 


409 


Lorelei Rock, - .. 




Germany, 


148 


Los Angeles, Cala. , 


30, 000 


U. S. A. 


3^9 


Louisville, Ky., 


125.000 


U. S. A. 


396 


Lucerne, _ - _ 


15 00 J 


Switzerland, 


132 


Luck now, - - - 


262,000 


India, 


347 


Lugano, - - - - 


6,000 


Italy, 


141 


Luray, Va., - _ . 


1,000 


U. S. A. 


397 


Luxor, - - 


2,000 


Egypt, 


237 


Lydda, - - . . 




Syria, 


246 


Lyons, -. -- 


343,000 


France, 


153 


Macon, - - 


18,000 


France, 


152 


Madeira, Cala., 


1,000 


U. S. A. 


389 


Madras, - - . _ 


406,000 


India, 


327 


Madrid, - - - - 


400,000 


Spain, 


159 


Madura, - - - _ 


52,000 


India, 


320 


Megara, - - 


4,000 


Greece, 


285 


Magdala, - - . - 


1,000 


Syria, 


258 


Magicians Well, 




a 


255 


Malaga, - - . _ 


116,000 


Spain, 


l6q 


Malacca, - - 


15,000 


Malacca, 


366 


Malmaison, . . _ 


3,000 


P>ance, 


53 


Manchester, - 


342,000 


England, 


3^ 


Mandalay _ _ _ 


90,000 


Burmah, 


364 


Manitou Springs, Col., - 


1,000 


U. S. A. 


395 



INDEX. 



425 



PLACE 


POPULATION 


COUNTRY 


PAGE 


Mar Saba, . . - 


j 


Syria, 


257 


Marseilles 


325,000 


France, 


181 


Matlock Baths, - - - 


' 5,000 


England, 


38 


Mauvais-l'as, - - - 




France, 


140 


Mayence, - . - 


62,000 


Germany, 


147 


Mecca, - 


30,000 


Arabia, 


302 


Medina, - - - 


20,000 


i > 


302 


Medjee Eshshems, - 


1,000 


Syria, 


270 


Meissen, Saxony, 




Germany, 


108 


Melrose, 


3,000 


' Scotland, 


16 


Memphis, (Ruins,) - 




Egypt. 


233 


Mer-de-Glaee, 


. 


France, 


139 


Merguin Archipelago, 






365 


Metz, . - . _ 


54,000 


Germany, 


151 


Milan, 


261,000 


Italy. 


189 


Minieh, _ _ . 


1 1,000 


J^gypt, 


235 


Mocha, - - ■ - 


10.000 


Aj'abia, 


304 


Mohammedanism, - 




■ ^i' 


1^1 


Monaco, - - .. . 


3.000 


Monaco, 


184 


Monkey-brook, 




Algeria, 


176 


Montanvert, - . . 




France, 


139 


Monte Carlo, 


1,000 


Monaco, 


185 


Monterey, Cala., 


1,000 


U. S..A., 


388 


Montreal, 


50,000 


Canada, 


413 


Montreux, - 


2,000 


Switzerland, 


137 


Moscow, - - 


600,000 


Russia, 


^Z 


Moulmein, - 


54, 000 


Br. Burmah, 


365 


Mount Abu, - 




India, 


334 


Mount Beatitudes, 




Syria, 


267 


Blanc, - 




France, 


139 


•* Chamalari, - 




Thibet, 


358 


** Eiger, - 




Switzerland, 


135 


*' Ebal, 




Syria, 


263 


*' Everest, 




Thibet, 


358 


" Gerizim, 




Syria, 


263 


*' Hermon, 




a 


270 


" Holy Cross, Col., - 




U. S. A., 


394 


*' Kinchinjinga, 


■ 


Thibet, 


358 


'* Loser, 




Austria, 


121 


" Olives, 




Syria, 


248 


*' Olympus, Asia Minor, 




Turkey, 


287 


*' Pike's Peak, 




U. S. A., 


394 


•* Rigi, - 




Switzerland, 


133 


'' Shasta, Cal, 




U. S. A., 


392 


'' Sinai, - 




Arabia, 


302 


•* Tabor, 




Syria, 


265 


*• Vesuvius, 




Italy, 


220 


♦* Washington, Vt., - 




U. S. A. 


414 


*' Wetterhorn, 




Switzerland, 


135 



4^6 



INDE}t„ 



PLACE 


POPULATION 


COUNTRY 


PAGE 


Mountains, Adirondack, 




U. S. A., 


412 


"' Anti-Lebanon, 




Syria, 


275 


Catskill. 




U. S. A., 


411 


** Lebanon, - 




Syria, 


275 


" Little Hermon, 




a 


265 


'^ White, 




U. S. A., 


414 


Munich, 


230,000 


Bavaria, 


127 


Mustad, 




Norway, 


69 


Nablous, (Shechem), 


1,000 


Syria, 


263 


Nagasaki, 


30,000 


Japan, 


374 


Nain, 




Syria, 


265 


Napa Valley, Cal, 




U. S. A., 


388 


Naples, 


450,000 


Italy, 


217 


Natural Bridge, Va., 




U. S. A., 


396 


Nazareth, 


6,000 


Syria, 


265 


New Castle-on-Tyne, 


145,000 


England, 


37 


Newport, - - - 


10,000 


Isle of Wight, 


-39 


Newport, R. L, 


17,000 


U.S. A., 


415 


New York, N. Y., - 


1,250,000 


it 


403 


Niagara Falls, N. Y., - 


6,000 


(( 


412 


Nice, 


54,000 


France, 


184 


Nicoea. Asia Minor, 




Turkey, 


287 


Obersee, 




Bavaria, 


124 


Ocean Atlantic, - < 






I 


'' Indian, 






304 


'' Pacific, - - ■ 






384 


Oran, 


50,000 


Algeria, 


175 


Orleans, 


52,000 


France, 


155 


Osaka, 


280,000 


Japan, 


380 


Otsu, 


18,000 


(( 


375 


Oxford, 


40,000 


England, 


31 


Palatio, 




Italy, 


216 


Palestine, - 






244 


Paris, 


2,225,000 


France, 


41 


Parsees, - - - 




India, 


3^7 


Pass, Brunig, 




Switzerland, 


133 


" Daphne, 




Greece, 


285 


-' Semmering, 




Austria, 


121 


' • Simplon, 




Switzerland, 


140 


*' St. Gothard, 




a 


H3 


Penang, - - _ 


50,000 


Sts. Malacca, 


3(^5 


Penrith, 


10,000 


England, 


37 


Pesth,(see Buda), Hungary, 




Austria, 


294 


Peterhof, - 


8,000 


Russia, 


82 


Petrified forest, Cal. , - 




U. S. A., 


388 


Philoe, (Ruins), 




Nubia, 


242 


Philadelphia, Penn., 


900,000 


U. S. A., 


402 


Piraeus, . - - 


21,000 


Greece, 


280 


Pisa, 


50,000 


Italy, 


203 



INDEX. 



427 



PLACE 


POPULATION 


COUNTRY 


PAGE 


Pistoria, - - - 


3,000 


Italy, 


199 


Plain of Esdraelon, 




Syria, 


264 


Poitiers, . - - 


34,000 


France, 


156 


Pompeii, (Ruins), 




Italy, 


221 


Pools of Solomon, - 




Syria, 


256 


Poonah, 


91,000 


India, 


328 


Portmadoc, 


1,000 


Wales, 


39 


Portrush, 


1,000 


Ireland, 


6 


Port Said, - 


4,000 


Egypt. 


242 


Portsmouth, 


128,000 


England, 


39 


Portland, Oregon, - 


40,000 


U. S, A., 


392 


Potsdam, 


49,000 


Germany, 


102 


Prague, Bohemia, - 


250,000 


Austria, 


109 


Providence, R. I., 


1 10.000 


U. S. A., 


415 


Pyramids of Gizeh, 




Egypt, 


230 


Quebec, 


35,000 


Canada, 


413 


Queenstown, 


10,000 


Ireland, 


I 


Rachel's Tomb, 




Syria, 


255 


Ramah, 




*' 


[ 262 


Ramleh, 


3,000 


'< 


246 


Rangoon, 


132.000 


Br. Burmah, 


363 


Reno, Nev., 


^5,000 


U. S. A., 


391 


Rheims, _ - - 


82,000 


P>ance, 


152 


Rhodes, 


20,000 


I'd of Rhodes, 


276 


Rhyl, 


5,000 


Wales, 


39 


River Abana, 




Syria, 


273 


** Canton, (see Pearl;, 




China, 


368 


'* Clyde, 




Scotland, 


7 


** Columbia, 




U. S. A., 


392 


*' Danube, 




Austria, 


114 


•* Ganges, - 




India, 


354 


♦* Hudson, 




U. S. A., 


410 


** Jordan, - 




Syria, 


260 


** Kishon, 




<( 


264 


** Mississippi, 




U. S. A., 


395 


** Moselle, 




France, 


15^ 


** Nile, 




Egypt, 




" Pearl, (see Canton,) 




China, 


368 


** Rhine, - 




Germany, 


147 


** St. Lawrence, - 




Canada, 


413 


'' Thames, 




England, 


31 


Rome, - - 


250,000 


Italy, 


205 


Roslin Chapel, 




Scotland, 


15 


Rotterdam, . _ . 


153,000 


Holland, 


60 


Rouen, - - - - 


105,000 


France, 


41 


Rowsley, - - - - 


1,000 j 


England, 


38 


Sachseln, 


1,000 


Switzerland, 


^2>?> 


Sacramento, Cala., 


30,000 ' 


U. S. A., 


391 


Safed. - - - » 


5,000 


Syria, ' 


269 



428 



INDEX. 



PLACE 


POPULATION 


COUxNTRY 


Saigon, 


90,000 


Co. China, 


Salt Lake City. Utah, - 


30,000 


U. S. A. 


Salzburg, - - - - 


20,000 


Austria, 


Samaria, 


1,000 


Syria, 


Samaritans Inn, 




(( 


San PVancisco, Cala.^ 


250,000 


U. S. A. 


Santa Barbara, " - 


6,000 


a 


Santa Cruz, Cala. , 


10,000 


<( 


San Remo, 


8,000 


Italy. 


Saratoga, N. Y., 


10,000 


U. S. A. 


Schaffhausen, 


1 1 000 


Switzerland, 


Scheveningen, 


8,000 


Holland, 


Schonbrunn, 


■ 


Austria, 


Sea, Arabian, 






- Black, - - - 






'' China, - 






** Dead, 






*' Galilee, - 






'' Inland, - - . - 






^' Marmora, - - . 






*' Mediterranean, -- 






" Red, 






'' Yellow, 






Sebastopol, - - - 


11,000 


Russia, 


Secundra, - - - - 


20,000 


India, 


Serampore, • - 


10,000 


'• 


Seringham, 


20,000 


<< 


Seville, - 


134,000 


Spain, 


Sevres, - - 


2,000 


France, | 


Shechem, (Nablous,) 


1,000 


Syria, : 


Sheffield, . - . - 


285,000 


England, 


Shiloh, - - - - 




Syria, 


Shrewsbury, 


25.000 


England, 


Shunem, 


1,000 


Syria, \ 


Singapore, 


97,000 


StsofM'lacca,; 


Sin j el, - - - 




Syria, 


Sissons, Cal., 




U. S. A. ; 


Smyrna, Asia Minor, 


160,000 


Turkey, 


Sorrento, _ - - 


20,000 


Italy, 


vSound, Long Island, 




U.S. A., ! 


** Puget, 




" 1 


Southampton, - 


60,000 


England, 


Spezia, 


24,000 


Italy, 


Sphinx, 




^^'gypt, i 


Saint Bernard, - ■: 




Italy, 


" Cloud, 


5,000 


France, 


'* Denis, 


35,000 


a 


*' Germain, 


17,000 


*' ' 1 


" Cxothard Tunnel, 




Switzerland, ' 



PAGE 

393 
122 

264 

261 

3^5 
389 
388 

185 

412 

131 

60 
120 

304 
294 
368 

267 

375 
287 
181 
302 

374 
96 

345 
357 

164 

54 
263 

38 
262 

39 
265 
366 
262 

392 
278 

222 
416 

392 
40 
185 
232 
189 

53 

54 

54 

143 



INDEX. 



429 



PLACE 


POPULATION 


COUNTRY 


PAGE 


Saint Omer, 


22,000 


P' ranee. 


2^ 


•' Petersburg, 


668,000 


Russia, 


77 


*♦ Raphael, - 




France, 


1^3 


Stirling, . _ - 


13,000 


Scotland, 


II 


Stockholm, 


174,000 


Sweden, 


71 


Strait Formosa, 






374 


" Gibraltar, 






171 


'** Malacca, 






366 


** Shimonoseki, 






375 


Strasburg, 


105,000 


Germany, 


143 


Stratford-on-Avon, 


8,000 


England, 


35 


Stressa, - - . 


2 000 


Italy, 


141 


Stonachlacher, - 




Scotland, 


II 


Suez, 


13,000 


Egypt, 


301 


Suk, 




Syria, 


273 


Surnt, ■ - 


100,000 


India, 


333 


Tangiers, 


10,000 


Morocco, 


171 


Tanjore,- - - - 


52,000 


India, 


325 


Tel-el-Kebir, 




Egypt, 


243 


Tells Chapel, 




Switzerland, 


133 


Tete Noire, 




'' 


140 


Thebes (Ruins}, - - , 




Egypt. 


237 


The Hague, 


118,000 


Holland, 


bo 


Therapia, - - - 




Turkey, 


294 


Tiberias, 


3,000 


Syria, 


268 


Tivoli, 


8,000 


Italy, 


216 


Tokio (Yeddo\ 


600,000 


Japan, 


380 


Tomb of Noah, 




Syria, 


275 


Tonquin, 




Co. China, 


3(^7 


Toulon, 


71,000 


France, 


1^3 


Tours, - - . 


48,000 


4 i 


156 


Trichinopoly. 


77,000 


India, 


323 


Trolhjitta Falls, - 




Norway, 


67 


Trondhjem, 


23,000 


(( 


69 


Trossachs, 




Scotland, 


II 


Troy, (Ruins), Asia Minor, 




Turkey, 


287 


Turin, - - - - 


193,000 


Italy, 


188 


Tuticorin, - - - . 


10,000 


India, 


320 


Upsala, - - - - 


16,000 


Sweden, 


73 


Valladolid, - 


52,000 


Spain, 


158 


Valley of Gihon, 




Syria, 


247 


Venice, . - . _ 


130,000 j 


Italy, 


192 


Verona, - - - - 


76,000 


n 


191 


Versailes, - - - - 


50,000 


France, 


50 


Vevay, - - 


8,000 


Switzerland, 


137 


Vienna, . _ _ _ 


1,000.000 


Austria, 


114 


Vilvorde, 


7,000 


Belgium, 


5^ 


Virginia City, Nev., - 


12,000 


U. S. A., 


391 


Vitznau, - - . . 




Switzerland, 


^33 



430 INDEX. 






PLACE 


POPULATION 


COUNTRY 


PAGE 


Warsaw, Poland, 


337,<^oo 


Russia, 


96 


Warwick, 


12,000 


England, 


32 


Washington, D. C, - 


150,000 


U. S. A, 


398 


Wasla, - - - - 


1,000 


Egypt, 


234 


Waterloo, - - - - 


2 000 


Belgium, 


57 


Wiesbaden, - 


50 000 


Germany, 


297 


West Point, N. Y., - 


2,000 


U. S. A, 


411 


White Sulphur Springs, W.V. 




a 


396 


Windsor Castle, 




England, 


28 


Yafufeh, . - - - 


3,000 


Syria, 


273 


Yeddo, (Tokio,) - 


600,000 


Japan, 


380 


Yellowstone Park, 




U. S. A., 


393 


Yokohama, 


64,000 


Japan, 


383 


York, 


55^000 


England, 


37 


Yosemite Valley, - 




U. S. A., 


390 


Zaandam, - - - - 


13,000 


Holland, 


61 


Zug, - - - - 


5,000 


Switzerland, 


132 


Zurich, - - - 


22,000 " 


i( 


131 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



MATILiDA, Princess of England, by M^^ Sophie Cottin, 
from the French by Jennie W. Raum, in two vols., paper, 
$i.oo. Cloth, $1.75 per set. 



n 



A good old-fashioned novel with a good old-fashioned hero 
and heroine, possessed of superhuman strength and virtues, is 
rare enough in the present day to be refreshing. * Matilda, Prin- 
cess of England/ would have been thoroughly satisfactory to our 
forefathers. It is crowded with incidents, has an exciting plot, is 
not sparing in sentimental love scenes, and describes the romantic 
times of the crusaders. The heroine is a sister of Richard Coeur 
de Lion, a novice in a convent, who desires to go with her brother 
on his pilgrimage to the Holy Land. The hero is Malek Adhel, a 
Mussulman and brother of the famous Saladin. The passionate 
Hove of the Eastern prince for the Christian maiden, and the chiv- 
alrous devotion which eventually won Matilda's heart, are but a 
part of the romance. After love on both sides is felt and ac- 
'cnowledged comes the long and terrible struggle of the lovers to 
be true to their different faiths. The agonizing efforts made by 
he Christian maiden to convert the Saracen, his loyal fidelity to 
his country and his people, and the subsequent tragedy, make 
1 he novel exceedingly powerful and interesting. The descriptions 
of scenery in the East are very fine ; the situations are dramatic, 
and the language is highly colored and Oriental, perhaps too much 
so to be always agreeable. One may wish that Mme. Sophie 
Cottin had condensed hei work and given us only one volume of 
* Matilda ; ' but the novel as it is will be a valuable addition to the 
historical pictures of the days of the crusades. The boys and 
girls who have followed Richard Coeur de Lion's fortunes so 
gladly in * The Talisman' and * Ivanhoe' will rejoice to find him 
again foremost in battles and generous alike to friend and foe ; 
while those who remember the venerable William, archbishop of 
Tyre, will find his life and character portrayed with wonderful 
truth and beauty. The first few chapters of any historical novel 
require a certain effort of the will to accomplish, bat after the 
reader has left these behind he will find * Matilda' as stirring and 
absorbing as a tale of modern times." — Evening Transcript, Bos- 
ton, July 16, 1885. 



EKKEHARD, a Tale of the Tenth Century, by Joseph 
Victor von Scheffel, translated from the German. Two 
volumes. Paper, 80 cts. Cloth, $1.50 per set. 

*^ It is more than thirty years since the appearance of Herr 
von Scheffel's famous novel, ' Ekkehard,' which produced a pro- 
lound sensation in Germany, and from that time to this has been 
recognized as a classic. The present translation of this brilliant 
work is excellent and unidiomatic, the original beauties of style 
being to a great extent preserved. The preface — an essay upon 
the office of the historical novel — is graceful and profound; it 
exhibits the author in the role of a critic who, rebelling slightly 
against the dry-as dust methods, prefers the poetical presentation 
of truth under a garb which is attractive as well as accurate. Not 
that the author would ignore the stern and unbending require- 
ments of the historical conscience, but he would clothe the crea- 
ture of the historian's, toil and labor in garments which add to its 
beauty and attractiveness. No more brilliant and truthful picture 
of the age has ever been written : the waning yet still distinct in- 
fluences of heathen rites and customs and heathen gods, the 
feudal spirit, the castle and the cloister, the prelate and the priest 
of that century which preceded the Carthusian reform, — the life, 
in a word, of the tenth century is portrayed with a pen directed 
by a scholar and an enthusiast. 

Having studied the records of St, Gall and inspired by his 
own poetic and chivalrous nature, drawing deep breaths of inspi- 
ration from the mountains and valleys of Switzerland, Herr von 
Scheffel, with Ranke's love for truth and with SchVegel's senti- 
ment, wrote with a burning pen the history of Ekkehard, the 
Monk of St. Gall, the preceptor of the beautiful Hadwig, 
Duchess of Suabia. Those were times when the muscle anJ 
brawn of the knight put the calm seclusion of the monastery to 
shame, when the Huns, looking back to Atilla as the demigod of 
their race, overran the south of Germany and harried the Rhine 
country — burning, devastating, destroying, foes to State and 
Church alike, and eager only for booty. All of this magnificent 
chaos of life is portrayed with a fire and enthusiasm which rouses 
the reader, and must have put the author into a state of exaltation. 
The characters are drawn vith vividness. The Greek girl Prax- 
edis is a gem from Byzantium ; the Abbot, the boy-goatherd, the 
Hun and his German wife, and the chief personages, Hadwig 
and Ekkehard, have an actuality which makes them living and 
breathing personalities. And when one reads the song of Wal- 
thari, that most ancient of the ancient songs of German mediaeval 
times, how pale and colorless seems the romance of * The Fairie 
Queen' in comparison with the superb strength and daring of the 
contestants. Few historical novels are so charming, few deserve 
so careful study, "—/'-^(f Critic, N. Y., August 9, 1890. 



A CHILD'S ROMANCE, by Pierre Loti, from the 

French by Clara Bell. One volume i6mo., paper 50 cents. 
i2mo. cloth $1.00. 

** Childhood, like love and death, would seem to be much 
the same thing the wide world over. The story, here told with 
exquisite simplicity and vivid clearness, or a childhood spent in a 
quiet old town of provincial France, will wake many a responsive 
sigh and smile of reminiscence in the hearts of readers whose 
childhood — whose wonder years — were passed under far other 
skies, and whose manhood knows far other ambitions, ideals and 
occupations than those of Pierre Loti, dreamer of dreams. All 
that makes childhood the strange and beautiful thing which under 
any normal conditions it is remembered as being, seems to belong 
to childhood, wherever lived; all the queer reticences, more un- 
conquerable than any of after-life, all the formless sorrows, the 
unconfessed terrors, the lonely imaginings that turn, to a child's 
apprehension, the work-a-day world into a land of mystery and 
faerie, are the common property of childhood, under whatever 
skies ; and however the spoken languages of children may differ, 
the unspoken language of childhood is one." — Boston Transcript. 

*' This delicious souvenir of the childhood of M. Pierre Loti 
is the idealist brother of Mr. W. D. Howells' realistic Boy's 
Town, Both books are inspired by the same tenacious and affec- 
tionate memory, the same same clear evocation of the past in its 
impressions as in its acts, the same wonderful naturalness in 
which every reader finds the image of his own childhood mir- 
rored repeatedly. But M, Loti had an extremely sensitive infan- 
tile temperament, much more concerned with its imaginations 
than with the outer world, and very little social. He says that 
he might have given to his book the dangerous title, * Journal of 
my unexplained sorrows, and of the tricks by which occasionally 
I sought to forget them." Mr. Howells, on the contrary, might 
have named his book, "Journal of my natural good times, and 
the tricks by which occasianally I relieved them by conscientious 
gloom." M. Loti's book is a charming revelation of the intimate 
life of a little French boy, destined to be a literary artist. While 
we read, there vibrate again and again memories and impressions 
long silent, almost extinct." — The Literary World. 

**The charming sentiment which characterizes the author's 
other works that have been given to American readers marks 
every page of this pleasing prose idyl." — Philadelphia Inqtiirer, 



FROM LANDS OF EXILE.— By Pierre Loti, from 
the French by Clara Bell, in one vol. Paper, 50 cts. Cloth, 
90 cts. 



'* The French have a knack for dedications. The other day 
v^^e had occasion to notice Balzac's * Modeste Mignon,' to which 
was prefixed one of the most beautiful dedications we had ever 
read : short, pregnant, eloquent, compressing in a single para- 
graph — but a paragraph of which Balzac alone is master — the 
concentrated adoration of a life-time. Pierre Loti, in this volume 
of charming translations, shows himself hardly less skilful in his 
introductory note, as he presents to us a brief memoir of the 
inspirer and inspiration of some of his best work — Mrs. Edward 
Lee Childe, * whose never-to-be-forgotten image rises before me, 
strangely vivid, whenever I have time to think.' Between Loti 
and this delicate, gifted Parisienne there existed sympathies of 
which we have prescience and foreshadowing in these marvellous 
sketches, — an Andromeda chained to a sofa in the Champs 
Elysees while Perseus ran the Eastern seas, revelled in their gor- 
geous coloring, and brought back from them — 'seas of exile' — 
impressions of the most exquisite vividness. There is true Ori- 
entalism in this book. Fragmentary as its reminiscences are, 
they are yellow with China, green with Singapore, glowing with 
Aden, penetrated with the languor and intoxication of Annam and 
Far India, tremulous with palms, grotesque with uprisen memo- 
ries of pagoda and Buddha-worship. An officer on a French 
man-of-war in the Franco-Chinese war, Loti availed himself of his 
opportunities, and drank in that golden, stagnant, inverted sort 
of Chinese life which was afforded by Cochin China and its fan- 
tastic existence. His note-book is a net with which he captured 
butterflies, harvested impressions, wove the East into his cocoon- 
hammock, and then hatched it out for us in this argentiferous 
form. A writer who writes mother-of-pearl, who thinks opal, 
who * tools ' his thought into all sorts of precious forms, and who 
calls his strange spoil, ' From Lands of Exile ; ' such is this 
French officer, who is at the same time a great word-artist. He 
is certainly endowed with the ' fruitful river of the eye,' with a 
retina of rare sensitiveness, with a sense of vision that dilates 
your own almost to pain ; what he sees you see twice over : for 
yourself and through him. China has passed through many 
rarely gifted psychological organizations ; but it has never before 
emerged so itself, so prismatic, so alive as a chameleon is alive, 
with its great yellow goblinlike picturesqueness." — 7'he Critic. 



RARAHU; or the Marriage of Loti. — By Pierre 
Loti, from the French by Mrs. Clara Bell. Authorized edi- 
tion. One volume. i6mo. paper, 50 cts. i2mo. cloth, $1.00. 

Not long ago we had occasion to speak of Julien Viand's 
** Pecheur d'lsland " — that wonderful romance of the wild and 
frozen North in which marvellous descriptions of sea-faring life 
in Icelandic waters were intermingled with equally marvellous 
pages depicting the progress of a love affair between a wild 
young mariner and a beautiful daughter of Brittany. In the 
"Mariage de Loti," now translated by Clara Bell under the title 
oi Rarahu, we are taken to the antipodes and the author lavishes 
all his power as a writer in painting in the most exquisite and 
idyllic colors the experiences of a young naval officer during a six 
months' stay at Tahiti. Tahitian customs are not based on 
Puritanic ideals, and this marriage of Loti would be regarded as 
something far different under less benignant conditions; but 
morals, like religion, are, as we all know, largely a matter of 
geograj^hical location, and of this affair between the foreigner and 
the pearl of Papeete it may at least be said that it reflected the 
utmost devotion while it endured. The book is chiefly remark- 
able for its exotic flavor ; it breathes the true atmosphere of the 
tropics. Tahiti, as Julien Viaud reveals that far-distant island, 
is a paradise of the senses, a veritable abode of syrens for those 
who go down to the sea in ships, and all its remote and un- 
familiar charm, — the brooding silences of nature, the vast forests 
haunted neither by singing bird or venomous insect, the towering 
peaks, the ever-flowing cataracts leaping from the heights, the 
cool pools of refreshing water, the tremendous surf rolling in 
forever on the resistant shore, the gorgeous semi-civilization of 
Pomare's court, the existence of a simple-minded, imaginative 
people who find their wants amply provided for by nature and 
who pass their hours with no thought or care for the morrow — all 
this gets a place in Julien Viand's book. As for Rarahu she is a 
tropical flower born to dazzle for a time with her beauty and to 
intoxicate the sou] with her adorable fancies, only to fade at last 
into something worse than death. This is Tahiti seen with the 
eyes of the poet, pictured by one who chooses his colors deftly 
and who has no call to portray the dreary or the commonplace. 
The book as it stands is a masterpiece of art, a symphony in 
words, expressing with graceful and often poignant modulation 
the emotions that stir the heart at twenty and make existence a 
vista of perpetual pleasure or a bourn of limitless despair. Viaud 
is one who at least in fancy has sounded all the heights and 
depths of passion, and yet there is in his method a reserve which 
piques interest. Being a genuine artist he knows with unerring 
felicity when and at what point to stay his hand. — The Beacon^ 
Boston, July 26, 1890. 



AN ICELAND FISHERMAN, {Pecheur d' Island e) 

A Story of Love on Land and Sea, by Pierre Loti, from 
the French by Clara Cardiot. One Volume. 

i6mo, Paper, 25 cents. i2mo. Cloth, 75 cents. 



" ^ An Iceland Fisherman ' is a sad but wonderfully 
sweet story that established on a firm foundation the 
reputation of its talented author almost immediately 
upon its publication. Breton life is painted with a 
masterly hand, and the fine descriptions, tenderness 
and pathos of the story give it an interest for all 
classes of cultivated readers that can never wane." — 
Boston Commonwealth. 



THE COURT OF CHARLES IV, a Romance, by 
B. Perez G-aldoS, from the Spanish by Clara Bell, m 
one vol. Price, paper, 50 cts. Cloth, 90 cts. 



"To this house the American reading public owes many new 
and delightful sensations. It has brought into popularity here a 
number of authors of undoubted genius whose remarkable works 
have been strangely overlooked by other publishers. Ore of this 
briUiant company is B. Perez Galdos, the Spanish romancer, whose 
' Gloria ' has recently made a profound impression in its English ver- 
sion at the hands of the accomplished linguist, Clara Bell. From 
the same author and the same translator we now receive a novel 
of love and war as powerful of its kind as Tolstoi's books which cover 
a similar range of human interest. The action takes place in the 
early part of this century, when Napoleon was the disturbing element 
of the universe. The characters who move through the thrilling 
pages are princes, princesses, grandees of all grades, generals and 
statesmen. They are mostly historical. Spanish scenery, climate, 
customs and manners are described with scrupulous fidehty. To 
read the book is like living in Spain during the eventful era to which 
the story is confined. As the Spanish peninsula is but little visited by 
American tourists, and as the ' Court of Charles IV.,' with its ambi- 
tions and intrigues, is a subject quite fresh to novelists, it follows 
that the present work will be eagerly bought and greatly enjoyed by 
all who love to explore new fields. " — The Journal of Commence. 



THE MARTYR OF GOLGOTHA, by Enrique 
Perez Escrich, from the Spanish by Adele Josephine 
Godoy, in two volumes. Price, paper covers, $i.oo. Cloth 
binding, $1.75, 



** There must always be some difference of opinion concern- 
ing the right of the romancer to treat of sacred events and to in- 
troduce sacred personages into his story. Some hold that any attempt 
to embody an idea of our Saviour's character, experiences, sayings 
and teachings in the form of fiction must have the effect of lower- 
ing our imaginative ideal, and rendering trivial and common-place 
that which in the real Gospel is spontaneous, inspired and sublime. 
But to others an historical novel like the * Martyr of Golgotha' 
comes like a revelation, opening fresh vistas of thought, filling out 
blanks and making clear what had hitherto been vague and unsat- 
isfactory, quickening insight and sympathy, and actually heighten- 
ing the conception of divine traits, 'i he author gives also a wide 
survey of the general history of the epoch and shows the various 
shaping causes which were influencing the rise and development 
of the new religion in Palestine. There is, indeed, an astonishing 
vitality and movement throughout the work, and, elaborate though 
the plot is, with all varieties and all contrasts of people and con- 
ditions, with constant shiftings of the scene, the story yet moves, 
and moves the interest of the reader too, along the rapid current 
of events towards the powerful culmination. The writer uses the 
Catholic traditions, and in many points interprets the story in a 
way which differs altogether from that familiar to Protestants : for 
example, making Mary Magdalen the same Mary who was the 
sister of Lazarus and Martha, and who sat listening at the Saviour's 
feet. Rut in general, although there is a free use made of Catho- 
Hc legends and traditions, their effort is natural and pleasing. The 
romance shows a degree of a southern fervor which is foreign to 
English habit, but the flowery, poetic style — although it at first 
repels the reader — is so individual, so much a part of the author, 
that it is soon accepted as the naive expression of a mind kindled 
and carried away by its subject. Spanish literature has of late 
given us a variety of novels and romances, all of which are in their 
way so good that we must believe that there is a new generation of 
writers in Spain who are discarding the worn-out forms and tra- 
ditions, and are putting fresh Hie and energy into works which 
will give pleasure to the whole world of readers." — Philadelphia 
American f March 5, 1887. 



ASP ASIA. — A Romance, by Robert Hamerlin^j from 
the German by Mary J. Safford, in two vols. Paper, $i.oo. 
Cloth, $1.75. 

** We have read his work conscientiously, and, we confess, with 
profit. Never have we had so clear an insight into the manners, 
thoughts, and feelings of the ancient Greeks. No study has made 
us so familiar with the age of Pericles. We recognize throughout 
that the author is master of the period of which he treats. More- 
over, looking back upon the work from the end to the beginning, 
we clearly perceive in it a complete unity of purpose not at all 
evident during the reading." 

** Hamerling's Aspasia, herself the most beautiful woman in 
all Hellas, is the apostle of beauty and of joyousness, the im- 
placable enemy of all that is stern and harsh in life. Unfortunately, 
morality is stern, and had no place among Aspasia's doctrines. 
This ugly fact, Landor has thrust as far into the background as 
possible. Hamerling obtrudes it. He does not moralize, he 
neither condemns nor praises ; but like a fate, silent, passionless, 
and resistless, he carries the story along, allows the sunshine for 
a time to silver the turbid stream, the butterflies and gnats to flut- 
ter above it in rainbow tints, and then remorselessly draws over 
the landscape gray twilight. He but follows the course of 
history; yet the absolute pitilessness with which he does it is 
almost terrible." — Extracts from Reviezv in Yale Literary 
Magazine. 

'* No more beautiful chapter can be found in any book of this 
age than that in which Pericles and Aspasia are described as visit- 
ing the poet Sophocles in the garden on the bank of tne Cephis- 
sus." — Utica Morning Herald. 

"It is one of the great excellencies of this romance, this lofty 
song of the genius of the Greeks, that it is composed with perfect 
artistic symmetry in the treatment of the different parts, and from 
the first word to the last is thoroughly harmonious in tone and 
coloring. Therefore, in 'Aspasia,' we are given a book, which 
could only proceed from the union of an artistic nature and a 
thoughtful mind — a book that does not depict fiery passions in 
dramatic conflict, but with dignified composure, leads the conflict 
therein described to the final catastrophe." — Allgemeine Zeitttng, 
(Augsburg). 



WAR AND PEACE. A Historical Novel, by Count L^on 

Tolstoi', translated into French by a Russian Lady and from the 

French by Clara Bell. Authorized Edition. Complete, Three 

Parts in Box. Paper, $3.00. Cloth, $5.25. Half calf, $12.00. 

Parti. Before Tilsit, 1805 — 1807, in two volumes. Paper, $1.00. 

Cloth, $1.75 per set. 

« II- The Invasion, 1807— 1812 in two volumes. Paper, $1.00. 

Cloth, $1.75 per set. 
"in. Borodino, The French at Moscow — Epilogue, 1812 — 1820. 
in two volumes. Paper, $1.00. Cloth, $1.75 per set 



OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. 



"A story of Russia in the time of Napoleon's wars. It is a 
story of the family rather than of the field, and is charming in its 
delineations of quaint Russian customs. It is a novel of absorb- 
ing interest, full of action and with a well managed plot; a 
book well worth reading." — Philadelphia Enquirer. 



"The story of 'War and Peace* ranks as the greatest of 
Slavic historical novels. It is intensely dramatic in places and 
the battle scenes are marvels of picturesque description. At 
other points the vein is quiet and philosophical, and the reader 
is held by the soothing charm that is in complete contrast with 
the action and energy of battle." — Observer, Utica, N, Y, 



*' War and Peace is a historical novel and is extremely inter- 
esting, not only in its description of the times of the great inva- 
sion eighty years ago, but in its vivid pictures of life and character 
in Russia." — Journal of Cojnmerce, New York, 



**0n general principles the historical novel is neither valua- 
ble as fact nor entertaining as fiction. But ' War and Peace' is 
a striking exception to this rule. It deals with the most impres- 
sive and dramatic period of European history. It reproduces a 
living panorama of scene, and actors, and circumstance idealized 
into the intense and artistic life of imaginative composition, and 
written with a brilliancy of style and epigrammatic play of 
thought, a depth of significance, that render the story one of 
the most fascinating and absorbing. "— Boston Evening Traveller, 



POEMS, by Kose Terry Cooke, in one volume i2mo.. 
Cloth, $1.50. 



" In writing of her, we recall the appreciative words 
of Mrs. Harriet Prescott Spofford, who wrote of Mrs. 
Cooke : 

* It is genius that informs every line Rose Terry has ever writ- 
ten, — a pure and lofty genius that burned with a white flame in 
such subtle metaphysical reveries as ** My Tenants," and "Did 
I ? " and showed its many-colored light in brief bits of poetic 
romance, and in a succession of stories of New England life. 
One marvels how such a genius became the ultimate expression 
of generations of hard Puritan ancestry, as one marvels to see 
after silent flowerless years some dry and prickly cactus stem 
burst out into its sudden flaming flower.' 

**The poetic temperament, sensitive to all influences, 
mirroring impressions, swift to translate feeling into ex- 
pression, is pre-eminently that of Rose Terry Cooke. 
A singularly intense and passionate love of beauty ; an 
insight into spiritual moods, fine and unerring; deep 
sympathy with all human experience, characterize her 
poems. She has beside these an added gift of graphic 
description that is a purely pictorial art. With this 
power of profoundly realizing and sympathizing with 
all human experiences; with her wonderful color and 
grouping that produces the perfect picture, and her 
lyric gift — true singer that she is — -we find in Rose 
Terry Cooke the poet born and to some extent, — made." 
Boston Evening Traveller, 



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